Canon EOS 6.3MP Digital Rebel Camera with 18-55mm Lens

I went digital 5 years ago. My first was one of the very old Olypus digitals; no removable storage, just a cable to the computer, 120 low resolution or 30 medium resolution shots and then the memory was full. The colors were always off, there was no zoom, and it was amazing that it worked at all. No wonder I also bought a pocket 35mm camera to take "real" pictures since the Olympus' were so small, grainy, and colorless. At least the 35mm had a datestamp option. 3 years later I bought the Canon PowerShot S30, then when I lost it (or had it stolen?) I replaced it with the S40. The PowerShot S50 sold today is the same body style with more pixels and a couple of annoyances fixed.

This camera is NOTHING like those cameras. I had plenty of complaints about the S30 & S40. My biggest gripe was missing the shot. I take pictures of children, especially at school functions. I would line up a wonderful shot, push the button... and they would move! They'd get up and walk away, they'd turn around, they'd crowd into the subject, I was missing 80% of my shots. About a year later, the shutter would finally click. So my hard drive is filled with so-so shots that would have been winners if that annoying delay hadn't gotten me... again!

No problem with the Digital Rebel. Press the button, focus is lightning-fast, then click goes the shutter. You look through the viewfinder to frame your shot, not at the back on those hard-to-read LCD screens. Several modes allow multiple pictures, just in case, such as in Sports mode. I am seeing such an improvement in my pictures since I got this camera a few weeks ago. First of all, they are always framed properly, because I'm not dealing with sudden motion after shutter release, nor am I dealing with an LCD for a viewfinder, or a "viewfinder" that makes me correct for parallax. Next, the colors are amazing. Third, 6.3 megapixels... when would I ever want that much? When I want to crop 80% of the picture and still print what's left!

It is great to have a camera with some heft that still doesn't feel like a brick. As everyone else says, get the kit lens. It is 18 to 55mm, so a nice wide-angle lens for group shots, etc. I find 55mm not close enough for shooting children; the S30/S40 I mention above has an 11-55mm range which I already knew to be insufficient for shooting kids. Thus I bought the Canon 28-200mm zoom lens and keep that one on the camera, only switching to the kit lens when I do big groups or a lot of similar portraits (that big zoom lens weighs four times as much as the body!)

Yes, it is an amazing camera for "under" $1000. Truth be told, I spent more than that on accessories; the 28-200mm lens was almost $500, with 6.3 megapixels you might as well buy the biggest flashcard you can, and that's 2 GB these days; you'll need a case, you really ought to buy skylight filters to protect those lenses from getting scratched, an extra battery is a really good idea... well, you see what I mean.

Still an amazing camera, especially after dealing with those tiny toys for all these years.

I've owned three digital cameras before this (a very small Sony, a Canon G1, and an older Kodak), and have been impressed with instant feedback received by viewing your photo 2 seconds after you took it, but was always left with the feeling that I needed to be able to change lenses and have more control over the process.

What I really wanted was my old Canon EOS 650 (35mm) camera to work with a digital camara back so that I could make use of my existing investment in lenses. Well guess what, that is exactly what the Digital Rebel provides!

Much to my surprise, all of my old EOS EF lenses work very well with this camera and I am getting much better results than I expected. This is a huge improvement over my other digicams better resolution, color, overall quality, and I am in awe of what I get with my long telephoto lens.

A few notes. First, buy the kit lens (18-55mm EF-S); for $100 you'll use the lense and it is an incredible value (certinaly worth 2 to 3 times the cost). Second, if you take many indoor photos you'll want an external flash; I went with Canon's 420EX unti as it provides E-TTL exposure (essentially, the amount of flash is controlled by what the camera meters through the lens a pretty amazing capability). Third, get a good amount of memory, like 2 512K card; its relatively inexpensive and by taking lots of photos you'll learn more about the camera's abilities sooner.

I am getting very long battery life (well into many hundreds of photos per charge), so unless you are headed off into the woods you may be able to hold off on purchasing a spare battery.

In summary, if you are an old 35mm EOS photographer, this is a complete no brainer since you get to use your lens investment. If you aren't, I'd highly recommend this camera anyway (and look into the Canon 70-200mm/f4 telephoto lense its extremely high quality and a reasonable price). Now smile and say "Canon".

Buy Canon EOS 6.3MP Digital Rebel Camera with 18-55mm Lens Now

canon's competitors must be scratching their collective heads wondering how canon has managed to deliver a true interchangeable-lens digital SLR for less than a thousand bucks. this is nothing short of a revolution in the d-SLRs world and it's hard not to get excited!

pros:

can't stress this enough: value, value, value a formidable d-SLR has landed south of the thousand dollar barrier.

6MP CMOS sensor.

excellent resolution matches canon's own EOS 10D.

seven manually selectable AF points fast and reliable.

2.5fps continuous shooting speed up to four images regardless of resolution.

accurate color reproduction.

images virtually noise free at ISO 800 and below.

very little redeye occurrence.

good metering, although no direct control of metering mode.

good manual preset white balance.

shooting priority play mode simply half-press the shutter during playback and you're ready to shoot.

supports RAW format.

excellent AF speeds, with virtually no shutter lag.

impressive shot to shot times basically you can shoot as fast as you can compose your shot.

good selection of exposure modes.

orientation sensor for automatic image rotation.

playback magnification up to 10x.

allows computer controlled shooting with included software.

feels solidly built despite the plastic body.

easy to use, integrated controls and displays.

bright, high resolution LCD.

fully compatible with canon extensive lens line.

excellent battery life (but i still recommend getting a spare).

excellent printed manual and supplied software bundle.

cons:

to minimize cannibalization of 10D sales, the 300D has been pre-programmed to have less flexibility (forced AI focus, forced evaluative metering, etc).

no spot metering.

low noise levels at ISO 1600.

no flash exposure compensation.

cannot fine-tune white balance.

make sure you don't open the memory door while the camera is writing into the flash memory or else you will lose everything that's left in the internal memory buffer.

plastic body with compartment doors that should be meatier.

LCD has no anti-reflective coating.

reduced continuous shooting rate and buffer size (2.5 fps for max 4 images) vs the 10D.

ISO sensitivity not displayed on viewfinder status bar while being changed.

no flash memory provided so add a few $$ to your budget to get at least 128MB.

proprietary battery again, a few more bucks for a spare.

there's nothing in the market that can touch this camera today. if you're shopping for a camera in the thousand dollar range, make sure you take a close look at the 300D.

i hope this helps you with your buying decision. peace.

Read Best Reviews of Canon EOS 6.3MP Digital Rebel Camera with 18-55mm Lens Here

I've had the Rebel for about a month now, and it's been an amazing blast up the photography learning curve for me. It is my first SLR, though fortunately my third digicam, and ... well, wow, what a great camera to learn on.

I'd like to just run down the "cons" listed by a different reviewer below (or above? how do they order these things? ;-):

"to minimize cannibalization of 10D sales, the 300D has been pre-programmed to have less flexibility (forced AI focus, forced evaluative metering, etc)"

* This general point is true, but it is rarely an issue for me, at least. You can override evaluative metering, you can fool it into Servo AF mode (and the "sports mode" pushes it into Servo AF mode as well), etc. The only thing I miss is mirror lock-up, for long-exposure dusk shots ... but hey, that just isn't worth the $600 and .75 pound tax I'd pay for the 10D.

no spot metering.

* Not true. Locking exposure (holding the '*' button) yields spot metering in most modes, though the "spot" is about 9% of the FoV.

low noise levels at ISO 1600.

* The Rebel has the same sensor and image processing goo as the 10D, and the 10D reputatedly has some of the lowest noise at any given ISO. ISO 1600 is pretty darn fast, some noise is inevitable.

no flash exposure compensation.

* Yeah, this stinks a bit -but at least you can get it with one of the EX flashes.

cannot fine-tune white balance.

* Not sure what "fine tune" means here -you can set it to "Custom white balance" and read off of a white source (e.g. white card, paper), and it retains that custom setting (even through on/off cycles of the camera).

make sure you don't open the memory door while the camera is writing into the flash memory or else you will lose everything that's left in the internal memory buffer.

* Never have run into this being an issue -opening the memory door is quite an unnatural action, I can't really see it ever happening accidentally, and the big red flashing light would be a reminder not to do it intentionally.

plastic body with compartment doors that should be meatier.

* Metal (zinc) would be heavier, and the Rebel is plenty durable -I crashed my mountain bike at 20mph with this sucker on my hip. I rolled onto it and cracked the filter, bent the lens, but the body was only scratched a little, and continues to work perfectly.

LCD has no anti-reflective coating.

* My theory has always been that you can't see diddly on the LCD anyway. The real benefit on the 300D is that you can set the pic review mode to show the "info" screen, which includes the histogram -this is VERY useful for checking to see if you have the exposure right without having to squint at a tiny LCD screen and guessing.

reduced continuous shooting rate and buffer size (2.5 fps for max 4 images) vs the 10D.

* Again, another thing you get with the additional $600 ... but compared to the other digicams I've owned, this one feels like a rocket!

ISO sensitivity not displayed on viewfinder status bar while being changed.

* It is displayed on the external LCD, however. I do wish that it was always visible on the LCD (not just when changing), as it's a little too easy to set it to, say, 400 in some low light situation, and then forget it's there and only remember when you note, several days later, that "wow, that shutter speed sure is short ..."

no flash memory provided so add a few $$ to your budget to get at least 128MB.

* Included flash cards are virtually always too small and basically get tossed.

proprietary battery again, a few more bucks for a spare.

* Are there any "large" cameras that take, say, AA's? Not many ... the BP-512 that the Rebel uses is a SWEET battery, too, in terms of life.

Want Canon EOS 6.3MP Digital Rebel Camera with 18-55mm Lens Discount?

I have been intrigued by this camera since its release. My old camera is a Canon PowerShot S30 (3.2MP). I wanted to buy an SLR to advance my photography skills and capabilities. When this beauty came along bearing a price tag under $1,000 and received prestigious acclaim I knew I wanted one. But I decided to delay for a few months, waiting to see what competition would arise, and how quickly the price would drop. That competition presented itself as the Nikon D70. Ultimately, I decided to get the D-Rebel because the price-to-quality ratio is exceptional; the ~$300+ more for the Nikon doesn't seem justifiable for what I think are negligible factors. Besides, my PowerShot has served me well and I'm used to the Canon system.

I've played with mine in the field for two days. Last weekend was my introduction day and I made a lot of mistakes -camera shake, off-focus, underexposure. Today I went back to the same spots [in similar weather] and received much better results by using my tripod, setting the exposure compensation to +1/3 (most of the time) and sometimes forcing a longer shutter than 'auto' suggested. My photos went from dull to incredible with a few easy adjustments. If your photos come out poorly always exhaust the manual solutions before blaming faulty camera construction.

If you're moving up from a [Canon] SLR, many of the characteristics of the D-Rebel will be familiar. If, on the other hand, you're used to a P&S like myself some things will be awkward. For example, using the viewfinder instead of the LCD monitor to compose shots; using the Main Dial and LCD panel to implement settings; and manual focusing. My PowerShot allows manual tweaking, but it is usually easier to let the processor handle certain functions. The SLR is different -it invites you to play.

I have read complaints about the camera's construction. Indeed, it is an all-plastic body, whereas the D-Rebel's big brother, the 10D, is magnesium alloy. But I think this will be an insignificant point for most people; the plastic body is sturdy enough to handle a day's work. It has a nice firm rubber grip on the right side. A friend has an EOS Elan 7 (n or ne) and the weight is approximately the same.

I also know some people don't like the fact that the D-Rebel uses the flash as an AF-assist lamp -particularly because once the flash pops it will take a flash exposure. But the solution is simple enough: push the flash back down. The camera automatically re-evaluates the shutter speed, maintains focus and takes the shot. You will need to have it on a tripod for the shot to be successful, though.

After a lot of reading and searching for components to make up a great system, I ended up buying: Rebel with 18-55mm lens; EF 55-200mm II USM lens; 1 Gb Sandisk Ultra II CompactFlash; 420EX Speedlite flash; Sto-fen Omni-Bounce diffuser (for 420EX); Tiffen 58mm Deluxe Enhancing Filter Kit; Samsonite Worldproof 3.2 Download SLR bag; Tamrac Small Lens Case. (I wrote a review for the Samsonite bag. I think it's fantastic for carrying all my gear. I use the Tamrac bag when I want to travel light.)

Here's a stupid mistake I made that I'd like to enlighten others to, so that they may avoid doing the same. When I first tested the camera most of my shots were indoors and required the flash. In many of those shots I noticed a black blob. I thought maybe my flash was defective. The manual says there are certain conditions where the flash may be obstructed. My solution was simple enough: two of my fingers were in the way. With my PowerShot, I had become used to lifting my ring and pinky fingers away from the flash and lens so they would be out of the way... now doing it put them in the way of the flash. Sometimes the simplest answer is the right one.

Here are two things I feel quite fortunate to have learned (i.e., stumbled upon), as I did not read this in any review.

(1) When using a [Canon] digital SLR you need a "Type II" lens. Lenses have always induced aberrations of light, which would create 'ghosts' and other weird things. But 35mm film is produced with a coating that prevents them. When you use a D-SLR, however, that coating is not on your sensor, so those light artifacts appear again. So Canon created the "Type II" lens, where the aforementioned coating is on the glass. The only problem is that there are only a handful of these lenses at this point. Unfortunately, this dramatically weakens Canon's claim that you can use "over 50 lenses" on your D-Rebel. While technically true, you probably wouldn't like the results. (Popular Photography magazine ran an article about this, which is on their site.)

(2) Don't fall for tricky CompactFlash advertising. I bought several Viking Components CF cards for my PowerShot. They always worked well and I almost bought a big one for my D-Rebel. Then I considered the Lexar "40x" because they have a good reputation. "40x" sounds good, eh? The Sandisk Ultra II works at 60x! At the Large-Fine setting, this will save you one-third second of write-time. That is big when you think about action photography. The Sandisk card can write 3 images when the Lexar can only do 2. The Vikings are worse; they can't even write one image/second!

I am exceptionally pleased with my purchase -not with just the D-Rebel, but the whole system. It pays to do your research and decide what's right for you. Personally, I think I put together an excellent 'amateur SLR' package that will allow me to grow and explore for a long time. Hopefully you will feel the same with a D-Rebel over your shoulder.

Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens

Many people have stated the facts about this lens. Instead of restating them, let me add what I use it for:

For nature photography, this is the only lens I need. Just put something pretty in the foreground (flowers, rocks, etc.) and let the lens magically stretch out the horizon to add drama and flair to the shot. Makes beaches MAGICAL... Makes forests imposing. Adds desolation to the desert.

And from a business perspective:

As a wedding shooter, I use it to stretch out small/boring churches and make them more dramatic. It is also great to use from above for dancefloor shots and really makes the shots DYNAMIC and interesting.

And finally:

If you are deciding between this and the 17-40, let me save you some time... there is a huge difference between 16mm and 17mm. Don't waste time buying the 17 and then selling it at a loss to upgrade like I did.

If you're going to go wide.. go wide baby. ;)

I have owned both this and the original version. The new lens is better in the corners and flares less but the corners are still a little soft at f2.8 and you can get the lens to flare a little if you try. I haven't seen the loss of clarity above 20mm that others reported. Perhaps you would see a slight difference in eyelashes if you did a lot of portraits but this is probably not the best choice for a portrait lens. It is a somewhat better lens for shooting landscapes and other shots where edge to edge clarity is important.

But the differences between the two versions are minor and in some instances irrelevant. If you don't shoot a full frame camera the soft edges don't appear in the photo. And flare is a minimal issue at most. It rarely appears and is easy to fix in Photoshop if it does. I would opt for the original if I didn't shoot full frame based on the price difference alone.

My only problem with the original was when I had to shoot hand held. Sometimes you can't bring a tripod along which rules out shooting at f16 or 22 so I occasionally ended up with shots that were soft in some of the edges. The new lens will solve that. That is the only reason I decided to upgrade.

I haven't used many other lenses in the same range so I can't compare quality with other makers but I'm not aware of anything reputed to be better. I have Canon primes as well as other Canon zooms and in actual use all are generally close in quality. I use the primes if possible when I plan to crop or enlarge a lot but I could still get by nicely with the zooms.

So, if you shoot less than full frame or if price is an issue, get the original. If you shoot full frame but need maximum clarity in the center (portraits for example), test both versions first. If you shoot full frame and need maximum edge to edge clarity, go with the new lens.

Update: Having shot this lens for a long period I would discount the comments about problems above 20mm. I owned the first version as well and I don't see a difference in the 20mm to 35mm range. On the contrary, I am increasingly impressed with the image quality and sharpness of this lens throughout the range. I recently used it into a very narrow slot canyon where I couldn't take more than the camera and the lens attached to it and took shots from 16mm up to 35mm that all came out very sharp and rich. Granted I wasn't shooting wide open because I needed lots of depth of field but the point is the lens delivered the best shots of that trip. In terms of versatility, this lens is unmatched for wide angle use by Canon owners. I also have the 14mm f2.8 II, 17mm f4. TS/E and 15mm fisheye for comparison. This is the one wide angle lens I always take along.

Buy Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens Now

I've read some pretty critical reviews of this lens; from my perspective some of these could be due to an occasional bad copy, but others are likely due to the owner expecting way too much from a UWA zoom lens. Most complaints center on lack of corner sharpness and/or light fall off/vignetting at the wide end and wide apertures. I've owned and extensively tested 4 high end UWA Zooms to date now; the Canon 16-35 f2.8 L II, the 17-40 f4 L, the EF-s 10-22, and the Nikon 14-24 2.8 ED (the accepted gold standard for UWA Zooms), and can tell you that the Nikon is the only one that can reasonably (but not perfectly) hold the corners at the extreme wide ends of FL and aperture. Not surprisingly however the Nikon is yet another $400-$500 more expensive than the 16-35II (even more when you factor in the adapter to shoot on a Canon). In real world shooting at f/8 to f/16 however, I can confidently state that you are not going to see any meaningful difference between the 4 lenses without resorting to some serious pixel peeping gymnastics, and even then I'll gladly take bets that most couldn't tell the unlabeled photos apart. So confident in fact that I finally traded in my revered Nikon for an excellent copy of the 16-35II.

Yes, this lens exhibits some corner softness and light fall off at the wide end and/or at f2.8, however this starts to clear up nicely even as low as f/4 and is gone by f/8. By comparison, if you really want an eye opener, look at the vignetting on the 17-40 wide open (f/4) two thirds of the image is dark with only a small central spot unaffected (incidentally, those that post that the 17-40 suffers no corner vignetting are probably shooting JPEG and not examining the RAW image). Contrast this to the 16-35 wide open at f/2.8 where only the extreme edges and corners are dark. Same with corner softness, it does exist at f/2.8 but clears up nicely by f/8. In all cases, if you shoot this lens at the same settings as the 17-40, it outperforms its smaller cousin in all aspects (and the 17-40 an excellent lens in its own right). The 16-35 is more than just a 17-40 that goes to f/2.8, it is a significant improvement at all apertures and focal lengths.

I did some extensive testing with filters and found, contrary to claims in other reviews, no detectible difference in vignetting between a slim or regular UV filter at the 16mm wide end. Maybe there is a slight difference that some purists can see, but for the life of me I can't tell the difference, so I use a regular thickness filter for the convenience of being able to use the normal dust cap. The 82mm filter size is also often cited as a point of criticism. Yes, 82mm filters are larger and more expensive, but that's the price you pay for a lens with these specifications. At least this lens will accept filters, try that with the Nikon. Finally, I've also heard criticism that this lens starts to go soft above 24mm, but I personally haven't seen any evidence of this either. Maybe those are bad copy issues again? But mine is perfectly sharp (stunningly sharp in the center) throughout the entire range.

In short, if you absolutely must have a UWA Zoom that has razor sharp corners at f/2.8, you're going to need to go to other extreme measures such as the Nikon 14-24 or maybe a Zeiss, but then you've got all of the manual focus/exposure issues to deal with. In most real world applications at f/8 to f/16, this lens easily holds it's own against the Nikon 14-24 and definitely edges out the 17-40. In my experience, if I am shooting at f/2.8, I'm likely trying to blur the background anyway, so why would I care if the corners are soft? And if shooting in low light I can't notice the vignetting in the corners either. In any case, it's easily corrected in DPP anyway.

Read Best Reviews of Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens Here

Allow me to fill in a little niche gap here. Obviously this is a great lens for still photographers, but for all of the DSLR filmmakers out there who are having trouble with lackluster and muddy video results, the problem lies not with your camera; you need to step up to the L-Series glass. The primary issue with the 7D, 5D Mark II, etc. is the chunky artifacting and pixellation that comes from the poor compression codec built into the processor, or so we all thought. However, the key is, primarily, the quality of the glass in front of the sensor. This lens seems to nullify nearly ALL of the drawbacks of the HD video processing in my 7D. I can expand frame grabs up to 4k resolution, and they still hold up! 2K and 3K looks fantastic. THE GLASS MAKES THE DIFFERENCE. It's borderline magical.

This lens is nice and fat, just like a cinema lens, and therein lies much of its power. The bigger glass allows more light to enter into the sensor, giving the camera more "information" to pack into the frame, whereas with cheap, small lenses, the sensor has to essentially blow up and extract a muddy image from a tiny window. Drop the contrast, sharpness, and saturation settings to zero, add some L-Series glass, and your DSLR video can compete with Genesis, Viper, and can even hold its own against Red, at 1/10th of the cost.

This lens is perfect for the 7D's APS-C sensor. With the 5D, vignetting is a bit of an issue wide open. The focal range is perfect for walk-around footage, steadicam shots, and wide-angle effects shots. Consider this an essential range.

If you want professional-quality video, you need to have L-Lenses. I no longer care about the cost...I am immediately replacing my lens lineup with L-Series glass. I can't believe I've run a photo/video business for 6 years without L lenses! Besides, compared to other lens manufacturers, L-Series lenses are actually quite cheap. I've had the benefit of comparing this with Panavision lenses and I can assure you, there's no significant difference in the results. NONE. This is a gold mine for independent filmmakers.

Shell out the cash. AND be sure to add a few hundred more to the cost of this lens, in the form of high-quality filters! Protect your glass! And do it properly...there is no point in spending $1k+ on a lens if you're going to ruin it and put a piece of plexi-glass in front of it...just because you want to save $50. Get a $100 multi-coated (MRC) UV filter from B+W and just think of it as an insurance policy on your lens. Put on the filter the moment you take out your lens and never take it off.

Happy shooting! You will love this baby.

Want Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens Discount?

UPDATE: Since posting this review, I have done further experimentation and am coming to a conclusion (no new info from Canon thus far) that (in addition to this lens's gaussian factor) this new version is just more difficult for current camera bodies to focus, which is probably 70 percent of the problem that I'm seeing. Since this was released for the new 1DmIII camera body, we can hope that the 19 enhanced cross-type sensors will handle this lens better than current bodies. I am leaving the rest of the review as written, because the tradeoff against the long end is real, as is the gaussian effect beyond 24mm relative to the original version. Also because it accuratley reflects how others will encounter this same phenomenon. Based on this, I would up my star rating to 3.5 if they had decimals.... Also: Would like to clarify my remark below about it cleaning up the corners as advertised. I mean that remark to apply to the 16-20mm range only, because at 24mm I have a test shot showing a better corner from the original version I lens, which is to re-emphasize that 24mm is the point where the older lens takes over... END UPDATE

Canon has hyped this new lens as an improvment over the great original 16-35, but in reality it's not a net improvment at all. Rather, it is just a tradeoff... What they're not telling you is that, compared to the original version, this lens goes soft at focal lengths beyond 24mm, where they are near the same in quality. I acknowledge that the new lens DOES clean up the corners as advertised, but if you shoot people for a living like I do, be prepared for soft eyes and disappearing eye lashes looking back at you. In many common shots this lens cannot resolve eye lashes at near distances, where the old version can and does... If you hate seeing soft eyes in a slew of your professional pictures, you will find some consternation in this lens just as I have... I am not happy with the compromise at all... Everything else about the lens is what you expect from a Canon L, which is to say it has awesome build quality and it's heavy. I have already owned two copies of this lens and have shot and tested a third. They all have the same softness problem. It was apparently a deliberate design compromise, but Canon's support techs have not yet been brought up to speed on how to explain or position this to customers, at least not in my experience. I have frustrated them by asking this question on the phone repeatedly, and they can't answer it. They're starting to get mad when I call back... I did send my first one in for calibration. They found something to adjust, but it did not help.... Moral of the story: If you like your original version, DON'T sell it. You need BOTH. This new one will effectively be your 16-20mm, and the old one will be your 24-35mm... I think it's very sad needing to carry two of the same lens, but that's what this situation has come to. We definitely needed a fix at 16mm, and this one provides it. But it comes at the expense of messing up the 24-35 range where the original version was awesome and where it is still the king.... Others have pointed that you can sub the 24-70/2.8 into this range, and I agree, but at the expense of having to change lenses way more often and having to always have the 24-70 available.... I'm finding this new situation very iconvenient.... Personally, I'm just going to think of this as the super bulky and inconvenient 16mm prime that they should have built instead.... Oh, and final note: Canon continues to make the old version of the 70-200/2.8L despite having added the IS version. I think this 16-35 thing should be that way, too, because many people who do my type of work for a living will choose the sharpness of the original lens over the corner-CA-elimination factor of the newer lens. If I had to choose just one of these lenses, I would choose the OLD one, which I would rate at 4.5 stars versus this turkey. I think discontinuation of the original version at this point in time would be both unwarranted and mildly insane. Can you tell I like sharp pictures?

JVC Everio GZ-HD300 60GB High-Def Camcorder (Red)

In this review I show off the camcorder itself, show some video and pictures I took with the camcorder that show off the features, and discuss the software limitations.

Body and Features

--------------------

First off, this camera is tiny, especially considering the fact that it has a 60GB hard drive. The size rivals most SD card-only cameras. I assume it uses the same type of tiny shock-resistant hard drive found in MP3 players. The camera is even pocket-size if wearing loose fitting pants or pants with roomy extra pockets, like cargo shorts. Setup was simple. I inserted the battery, plugged in the power cord, and waited until the charging light stopped flashing. You simply open the LCD to turn on camera. There is no optical viewfinder. The LCD is big and bright, although not quite as clear and sharp as some of the competition. There is a vertical touch-sensitive laser scroll strip on left of LCD and touch-sensitive soft buttons along the bottom. The laser scroll strip is very responsive and becomes quite intuitive after you get accustomed to it. Menu items are logically arranged and easily accessible. The most often used items, such as video and sound preferences, are at top of menu, making them quickly accessible. Scrolling through the menu is accomplished by simply sliding finger up or down laser strip. The laser strip can also be used to zoom the lens in addition to using the switch atop camera. The LCD cavity also houses the power-off button, a mini-HDMI port, component video out connector, a button that enables switching between micro-SD and internal HDD, and additional buttons for playing and exporting video. There is a still picture snapshot button atop camera next to zoom toggle. The tiny form factor fit comfortably in my grip. The adjustable hand strap has a locking clasp that easily snaps open for quick adjustments. It can also be extended and converted for use as a wrist strap for carrying the camera. It also includes a small remote with basic features.

Performance

---------------------

The camera powers on quickly and is ready to shoot in seconds. There is no noticeable lag waiting for the hard drive to spin up. The hard drive is silent and is never interfered with recordings. The auto-focus performs okay in most circumstances. AF performance varies with distance and lighting. Shooting objects at full zoom and close-up (3 feet or less) seems more challenging for this particular auto-focus compared to other cameras I own. The face detection feature works well at identifying and tracking faces, even in cluttered shots, although it does have a difficult time keeping up with rapidly moving targets. Shooting footage of my kids, moving rapidly about, caused the face detection to lose target several times, although reacquisition was fairly quick. Despite this fact, the hard drive-based camera is able to keep up and maintain a decent level of detail in high-definition with constant hand/camera movement. Video shot in well lit conditions was clear and sharp. The camera exhibited good color balance with crisp true colors, decent saturation, accurate color reproduction, and good white balance. The camera also shoots in 24Mbps UXP (ultra high definition) mode. If shot in bright ideal conditions, the video in this mode is quite stunning, especially for such a tiny camera. Indoor and dimly lit video was not as nice. The video was much softer and noticeably noisier. Colors were also more washed out and adversely affected by indoor lighting. White balance took a nosedive. My white walls took on the orange color cast by the overhead incandescent lighting. And the luminance of the lights caused ghastly glowing effects on the walls as well. To be honest, I was a bit surprised after viewing the very first footage I shot with the camera, which was indoors with medium lighting. Video shot in even lower light (a 32" television and one lamp) was really bad. The video was so grainy, I had to double-check to make sure I was shooting in high definition. For comparison, I checked older footage from a standard-definition mini-DV camera previously shot in the same location with even less light and footage from a Panasonic SDR-H40 shot in similar light. The mini-DV footage was actually better, however, the Panasonic experienced a lot of the same issues as the JVC. The JVC was actually clearer in some instances and showed fewer video artifacts. So although indoor/dim light is not the greatest, I'd be hard-pressed to call it the worst. The camera does offer manual controls that can be used to improve indoor performance. There is a button right on the LCD that allows switching between manual and fully automatic. I tried it and with a little fiddling, significantly improved my indoor performance. If you're the fully-auto type, this camera will definitely force you out of that comfort zone if you want decent indoor performance. If that seems too daunting, then you will definitely want to use the built-in light for all but the brightest indoor filming. One area where the camera excelled was sound. Sound was crisp and clear with no virtually no interference. The camera even did a very good job of recording ambient sounds during outside filming one early morning. I heard every little sound of nature. Birds chirping near and far, insects, etc. Normal sounds are nice and clear with no harshness. If you close the LCD, the camera will enter standby mode, conserving battery life. To turn camera off completely, you have to hold the power button for a few seconds. The 60 GB hard drive is fast enough to keep up with various recording conditions and offers more than sufficient space for an entire vacation worth of recorded memories. You won't have to worry about running low on space unless you allow footage to accumulate over time on camera. However, if you do manage to run low on space, or simply prefer, micro SD is another option. The minimum specs suggest class 4 card or higher for normal video, class 6 minimum for UXP mode. This will help you avoid potential problems like drop-outs. Frankly, I wouldn't go with anything below class 6 for either mode. Unfortunately, class 6 micro-SD cards are not the most common thing in the world to find. In fact, I'm pretty sure you can check most stores in your area and they won't carry a class 6 micro-SD. They'll likely have Class 6 SD or SDHC cards however. I don't know why JVC opted not to go with the more popular regular SD. Nonetheless, if you need additional storage, micro-SD is also an option, thus causing JVC to label it a "hybrid" camera. Still shots are adequate but unremarkable. I wouldn't use this as my primary still camera but it works in a pinch. Shot Video/still footage is organized as thumbnails on the LCD when the user enters playback mode on the camera. The laser strip allows you to quickly navigate through the various thumbnails to select, play, and delete clips.

Exporting and Saving Footage

---------------------

The camera can export footage to both Mac or PC, external recording devices such as DVD/Blu-Ray/VHS recorder, or another camcorder. You can also play footage directly from camera on your television using the mini HDMI or component connections. The component cables are included, however the mini-HDMI is not. JVC also offers a direct to disk device, but a Mac or PC should be sufficient. Exporting to a Mac is relatively easy enough with iMovie. In fact, there is no bundled software for Mac. The bundled Pixela Everio MediaBrowser HD software for Windows (only) is severely lacking. It is primarily used for extracting, backing up, and organizing files from the camera. I do like the fact that it neatly organizes your videos chronologically (reminds me a little of Picassa, only for videos) and makes it easy to find specific footage. It also remembers which footage was previously backed up from camera and only imports the new footage. Unfortunately, that's about all the good I can say about it. Footage is backed up as AVCHD (H.264) files with a .mts extension on your computer. This will likely be a little confusing to people who have used standard definition hard drive cameras or mini-DV in the past. You cannot browse the camera in Windows for footage like you can with a standard definition hard drive camera because Windows does not recognize the .mts format. When files are backed up to your computer via MediaBrowser, they appear as an unknown file type to Windows. Unfortunately, this also means neither Windows Media Player nor Windows Movie Maker recognize the .mts file format as well, rendering them useless for viewing or editing. You will need an AVCHD compatible video editing application to manipulate and edit the files. MediaBrowser has a built-in viewer, however, viewing H.264 files will likely be a stuttering pixelated mess unless you have a powerful video card and computer. That rules out most average desktops and laptops. I used the viewer on a pretty decent laptop with a dedicated video card (256 MB RAM), Intel Centrino 2 CPU, 4GB of RAM, and 64-bit OS. The majority of the videos were watchable, however, certain videos with fast movement or camera shake, were a bit choppy in spots. I also tried it on a mid-level laptop with integrated video using shared system memory. The videos were much worse, very choppy, and basically unwatchable (unless you were deliberately attempting to give yourself a headache). MediaBrowser can convert the .mts files to Windows viewable video files, however, your choices are extremely limited. You can either choose to convert to a tiny (320X240) .mpg file, or export to iTunes for conversion to Quicktime video. Neither of which produced desirable results. MediaBrowser also allows you to "edit" movies, however, this is limited to simply cutting out unwanted footage. Lastly, MediaBrowser allows users to burn the video files to a DVD disk, which can be performed with files saved on the PC or directly from the camera. For some people, this may be adequate. Not everyone wants to be Steven Spielberg. Most users just want to shoot decent quality video, have the ability to remove footage of that crazy uncle (every family has one) embarrassing himself at the 4th of July cookout, and burn a DVD for watching later. This program will do that. It just doesn't do much else. Mac users on the other hand, have it much better off with iMovie. iMovie can open, view, and edit the AVCHD files. Mac users don't need any bundled software because they already have software that's pretty much better than anything the camera makers are willing to bundle anyhow. If Windows users wish to go beyond the very limited capabilities of the bundled Pixela software, they will have to invest in some type of third-party AVCHD compatible video editing or conversion software like Corel VideoStudio, Sony Vegas Movie Studio (Platinum or Pro), Cyberlink PowerDirector, Adobe Premier Elements, etc.

Summary

---------------------

To sum things up, is this a perfect camera? No, especially if you compare it to some of the other models on the market. It doesn't have the "professional grade" quality lens or features of some of the competing models. In addition, indoor/low light full-auto performance is less than stellar, especially for an HD camera, and the included software for Windows users is pretty weak. That being said, this camera does have two factors going for it that merit consideration: size and capacity. It's a consumer-grade camera, so let's look at the real reason the average consumer buys a camcorder: to record and document memories. A lot of times, those memories are going to be on the go. A wise art teacher once told me the best camera in the world is the one you have with you when needed. This camera packs tons of storage into a tiny body rivaling SD-only and similar sized videocams with far less flash memory. You can take this on vacation and feel confident it is small enough to carry everywhere yet capable of capturing all your trip memories without the need to offload footage or add memory. Yes, there are larger much higher quality alternatives, but smaller and lighter is sometimes the better trade-off. Anyone who has ever spent a few days chasing kids all over Disney World or a water park can bear witness to that fact.

In a nutshell, this camera shoots decent to very good outside footage and average to poor (depending on circumstances and whether you're willing to compensate in manual mode or use the built-in light) indoor/low light footage. On the other hand, it's small enough that you're more likely to carry it with you to capture any footage at all. If you're looking for a tiny pocket-size videocam with acceptable performance and a nice little feature set, this is worth a peek.

Buy JVC Everio GZ-HD300 60GB High-Def Camcorder (Red) Now

This camcorder records stunning video especially in well lit settings. The quality of the video rivals the HD you see while watching your favorite Television shows. There are many settings to choose from. Menu navigation is effortless. The laser touch scrolling is also very nice to use. It gives this camcorder iphone like menu navigation functionality. The hard drive and SD Micro card can be mounted by a PS3 for quick and easy play back. Still pictures are not perfect, but very close. There is so much to love about this camcorder. I paid $699 at BestBuy last week. I have been testing it like crazy before the 14 day return policy expires. I will not be returning this product.

Read Best Reviews of JVC Everio GZ-HD300 60GB High-Def Camcorder (Red) Here

** UPDATE 9/5/2009 **

Since my last review, we have taken this camera on many family get-togethers and on our summer vacation to northern California. We had an excellent trip and caught just over 70min of crystal-clear video on this little gem. When we got home, I offloaded the video on to my 15" Macbook Pro for a change since I usually use our desktop (20" iMac 2.66Ghz, 4GB RAM) to handle video editing. Since I use iMovie '09, the transition between using the iMac and the Macbook Pro is completely seamless; moreover, I use a Seagate FreeAgent Go for Mac 320 GB USB 2.0 Portable External Hard Drive-Silver ST903203FJA105-RK as my video drive for editing. The drive makes it easy to move data back/forth between computers, and iMovie '09 lets you edit right on the drive itself. I digress.... Anyway, it took nearly an hour to offload all the AVCHD video footage from the camera b/c the files have to be decompressed so they can be edited--this is par for the course of any AVCHD camera, unless you are using a program that can edit AVCHD files (I believe Final Cut Pro can, but I'm not going to spend the $$$ for it yet). I had iMovie offload the files in full quality (1920 x 1080, not 540p which it recommends) and used the files to make a DVD for our parents. The video files looked perfect and had very bright, colorful shots of our vacation--my mother even called to say that she couldn't believe how bright the pictures were. Yes, it was that good.....even on a simple DVD (not Blu Ray). You can burn a DVD of your HD movies, but you will no doubt lose quality in comparison to a Blu Ray. However, the quality is still very good on DVD nonetheless.

Battery life has thus far been very good, although I am starting to shop for an extended battery for it. The lens has stayed remarkably clean considering how much use it has gotten; I clean it with a can of compressed air and a soft, damp lens cleaning cloth.

Wind noise was a minimum most of the time, although I did have to turn on the wind noise option to block some of it out at times. In low light situations, it will tend to get a little grainy so I recommend having the LED light on if possible.

All in all, I stand by my 5/5 star review of this camera since it has performed very well and handled a lot of the rigors of travel better than I would have expected. This camera has been a great purchase for us so I wholeheartedly recommend it.

** UPDATE 5/11/2009 **

Oh how I wish I could post a HD video sample. We took this camera with us to my Mom's house for Mother's Day and the video (esp. outdoor) was just priceless quality; I am amazed at how much detail shows on our 42" Plasma HDTV (42" Samsung 1080i)--it just "pops" and hows every possible detail. The sound pickup was excellent and did not require any sort of modification in iMovie '09 for crisp sound; it picks up every voice, tone, and even helicopter in the distance. ;)

As a Mac user, I cannot recommend this camera enough; it really is a simple camera to use and my wife and I are thrilled with it.

--

My wife and I were looking at getting a camcorder to take with us on vacation. After doing a plethora of research, we finally decided on the JVC Everio line and chose the GZ-HD300 60GB HD Camcorder.

I haven't owned a video camera since my vintage RCA VHS shoulder-mount video camera. There are many types of camcorders available, so I was choosy in balancing form/function vs. price. I looked at Sony, Canon, and JVC , and finally went w/ JVC.

When I opened the box, I was happy to see everything was plainly laid out and easy to identify. Cord...check....camera...check...battery...check...manuals...check.

The battery was dead so I had to plug it in; powered it on, and it fired right up. Within 5min of opening the box, I was shooting video. I was impressed at the simplicity of the camera and didn't start to read the manual until the following day--it's that easy to use. Everything is well placed and easy to read/understand. Clearly JVC engineers did their homework about how to make something as technical as a video Camcorder easy to use.

Works great with our 42" 1080i Samsung Plasma HDTV with the included component cables. The camcorder is also HDMI-compatible (mini adapter is needed).

We own/use Macintosh in our home, so I cannot comment on how well the included, pack-in software works on a PC.

** ILIFE/IMOVIE '09 USERS **

CORRECTION: Before you shoot video, make sure you do use image stabilization in iMovie '09; it works just fine on the camera, but do not use stabilization in iMovie '09.

Here's a link that explains it:

I am using this camera with a Intel iMac 2.66Ghz w/ 4GB RAM, Leopard 10.5, and iLife '09. All cables are included in the box, so hook-up to the iMac took less time than finding an available USB port.

iMovie '09 had no problem at all reading the AVCHD content from the camera, and gives you three options; Import, Import All, or Archive Camera. Instead of writing a whole tutorial on how to use iMovie, all I'll say is it works very well with iMovie '09 and I've had no problems w/ video.

As I said earlier, this camera is not compatible with the image stabilization feature in iMovie. Apple also suggests turning it off in iMovie due to limitations using CMOS-based cameras.

Here's a link explaining the "rolling shutter" effect...

All in all, a great camera. We've been very happy with it.

CORRECTION: Image stabilization on the camera works just fine w/ iMovie/iLife '09; just be sure not to use image stabilization on camera AND use it in iMovie '09. Apple is clearly aware of it and it is and has a link explaining the issue (see below).

Want JVC Everio GZ-HD300 60GB High-Def Camcorder (Red) Discount?

Overall this camcorder is very easy to use and well designed and thought out. It produced high quality video for me under most conditions. In a very small package you get HD quality video a 20x optical zoom, and user-friendly design. Indoor quality was not as good as outdoor shooting (common to most every camcorder) but much more than acceptable.

Pros:

Sharp, clear, outdoor video. The first afternoon I had the camcorder I was shooting outdoors and creating AVCHD DVDs. The DVDs looked great on my HDTV. They had the sharpness, clarity, and depth you expect from an HD broadcast. I use a PS3 and it had no problems playing the disc whatsoever.

Easy to use navigation finger pad and laser touch. The user interface was very easy to get use to and worked great for me. On the left side you have the laser touch that I found quite easy to get use to for me to do exactly what I wanted to do. You also use thumb pads that are very responsive. The end result is an easy to navigate set of options.

Good smooth focusing. Most of the time people shoot with automatic focus so the focusing is important. This camera has a better than average for HD 20x optical zoom. Outside I had a fast response to focusing when zooming. More importantly for me, when I burned the DVDs and played them back the focusing was smooth. Other digital camcorders I have used I would get an unpleasant visual sensation when focusing in, not the HD300. That is not to say that it doesn't have to refocus, but that the transition is much smoother than other camcorders I have used. I was also able to get focused closeups of butterflies on flowers.

Well thought out user features. There are number of good and useful design features with this camcorder. First the strap is excellent. It includes a clip that you can open and close for very easy adjustment for people with different hand sizes. My wife and me both get a great fit, very easily. Start up is great. Opening the screen turns on the camera and opens the lens cover. A short everio startup screen appears but you can start shooting in seconds. When you close the screen you can leave the camcorder in quick start mode so the next time you open the screen it is ready to shoot without showing the everio startup screen. Closing the screen closes the lens cover automatically.

Software is basic but does what it is suppose to do. I used windows Vista and had no problems with software. Very basic software but it was easy to use from the get go and let me create DVDs with no problems. It also let me upload to Youtube very easily. Something I had never done before. It was great as I was able to share video with friends and family around the country. One odd thing with the Youtube upload was that at 50% done the software seems like it freezes up. The progress counter stops, things start blinking. The first time it happened I cancelled the operation. Then it happened again and I left it go and it has completed the upload every time. The software asks for your Youtube id and password and it is right there in your account when it finishes.

Cons:

You cannot create AVCHDs in the highest recording mode UXP. The UXP mode records at 24mbps, however when you select UXP it gives you a warning, DVDs can not be created. In the user manual it confirms that UXP can be used for playback and for storage and then playback. Since I primarily use a camcorder to create DVDs to store and share memories this means I will not be using UXP. XP and SP both produced high quality video though. If you have a Blu-ray burner I believe you can create Blu-rays in UXP. XP records at up to over 17mbps.

Poor manual. Most manuals nowadays with electronics are longer than War and Peace. This one is too short. It does not go into using manual mode and different scene shooting modes for instance. Nor does it list an option to cut down on wind noise for sound recording (that worked pretty well). Many other options are not mentioned. What this means is the user needs to play around with all of the menu options to see what the camcorder is capable of. Not hard to do, but no reason not to include a more informative manual.

Indoor recoding. I hesitated to put this as a con because all camcorders I have ever used do not produce as good results indoors. There is a reason that Discover HD looks so amazing most of the time, it is being shoot outdoors. Even TV quality HD cameras do not work their best indoors except with Hollywood level lighting. I thought the results were overall good with the HD300. During daylight indoors the quality was pretty crisp and sharp. At night it was grainy. However color reproduction was good indoors during daylight and nighttime. You are not going to get as good quality as outdoors though

Mixed-bag.

Sound recording. Overall I was able to get some pretty great sound. Much better than camcorders I have used in the past. However when you zoom the microphone zooms as well. This is good if you are recording say a baseball game and want the sounds from the game. But I do a lot of `narration' where I am zooming in and out but the sound I want is my narration. It would have been nice to be able to turn off the zooming mic when possible. Also you can not attach an external mic.

Conclusion.

This is a small but powerful workhorse of a camcorder with a lot to recommend it. The camcorder is very easy to use, great menu interface, super compact, good smooth zoom, nice amount of HDD storage (7.5 hours in XP), good basic software included, and really nice video quality under most conditions. It is remarkable what you get in so small a package. I am not a videographer as much as someone who wants to create video to share and remember. And I like that video to be as high quality as possible straight from the camcorder. This camcorder does that very well. It lets you easily create high quality AVCHD DVDs to store and share memories.

JVC Everio GZ-HD5 3CCD 60GB Hard Disk Drive High Definition Camcorder with 10x Optical Image Stabil

I like the size, and fits perfectly on your hand.

The stabilized zoom doesnt work as well as other cameras.

When downloading to your computer, MAC or PC, you will need to buy the plugins to be able to import them into your video editing programs. (premiere, iMovie, Final Cut...). It has it's own proprietary file type. (MOD & TOD) which is supposed to be MPEG 2.

My parents have a JVC mini-DV camcorder, purchased several years ago, which works very well for them. Sadly, that camera works better for me than this one. That one does video through i.LINK, this one doesn't seem to, but judging by a comment below I need to spend more time and TLC with the instruction book. That one uses conventional mini-DV tapes. On this one, the tapeless workflow takes some getting used to. The TOD format will be recognized by QuickTime if you install the provided codec, and then the patch to make it work with QT after v. 7.3 (if you update regularly, you're on 7.5 and it won't work.) TOD isn't recognized by Adobe Premiere Pro directly, but there are expensive codecs out there that will convert it. You could also rename the files from TOD to M2TS (MPEG-2 TimeStamp) and Creative Suite will slurp it right up. I admit, I jumped on what looked like a bargain and thought I got stung. As time goes on, though, it's slowly growing on me.

Buy JVC Everio GZ-HD5 3CCD 60GB Hard Disk Drive High Definition Camcorder with 10x Optical Image Stabil Now

I am returning this product because of false advertising by JVC. The specifications show that the camera support i.LINK, but this is not the case. You can plug the camera in to your PC using a 4 pin cable, but it doesn't support the capabilities of i.LINK which include ability to control the camera and get live video feeds using a PC. I wanted to use this camera as a PC camera, but it is not possible. Even if you hook it up to your computer using the other video output connectors, you cannot disable the auto-standby mode.

Read Best Reviews of JVC Everio GZ-HD5 3CCD 60GB Hard Disk Drive High Definition Camcorder with 10x Optical Image Stabil Here

I've had it for 2 years now

The only reason I didn't give it 5 Stars for everything is the TOD file format. Who the hell uses that? What were they thinking. It's super easy to use and the video quality it fan freaking tastic. You will not find a better camera for the same retail price, no way.

The software is Cyberlink and as companies go well, at least they aren't out of business.

I love it, but will go the extra dollars next time and see if it's worth it, then I will know.

Robert

Orlando

PS

What a stupid name "Everio" or whatever

Want JVC Everio GZ-HD5 3CCD 60GB Hard Disk Drive High Definition Camcorder with 10x Optical Image Stabil Discount?

I have been using this camera for over 6 months and the video and still image quality are outstanding!! I have never had an issue with it even in very low light conditions.

Nikon COOLPIX S9500 Wi-Fi Digital Camera with 22x Zoom and GPS (Black)

I have had a Nikon Coolpix S600 for 5-6 years now and it has been my go to camera to have around because of it's handy size and it has never let me down, except that recently the zoom function is intermittently working. So, I decided to replace it with the S9500 and just got it this past week and really wanted to put it through the paces a bit to see how functional it would be around town and in the field.

The wi-if transfer is really handy when your out and about and want to transfer photos to a cell phone or tablet that has data capability so they can be uploaded to a website or to just back them up on another device. I used my iPad and the free app from Nikon called Wireless Mobile Utility (WMU) which can be found in the App Store, it's really quick and easy to use. It also allows you to setup your camera and remotely take pictures with the app, I found that I could only be about 30 feet away from the camera with my iPad before the wi-if signal was lost so it has range limitations.

The 22x zoom is fantastic for this size of a camera, it takes really nice clear photos even zoomed all the way out. The anti vibration works well also if you al moving about and taking action shots.

One big complaint I have so far is the placement of the record button for starting video recording. I have hit this button numerous times on accident and there is no way to disable the video record function, it's always at the ready when you are in photo mode.

I will probably update after more use (especially in low light situations), but so far this camera is great for what I will use it for. I love concerts so that is my main point of having a camera and then for family/friend get togethers. I love the zoom on this camera and the many functions it comes with. I can easily and quickly touch up photos right on the camera, which is a great function. The GPS is there too, if needed, but I haven't really had the need to test that out. It powers on quick, there are several settings to choose from, the look and feel of the camera is great! I'm not too fond of where the flash is because I always end up putting my finger there to take a picture and have to remove it for the flash to come up, but that's just a habit I'll have to start putting my finger elsewhere!

I originally went in to buy the Nikon P510 because I heard that was great in low light and has amazing zoom, but it was just too big for me at this time. Maybe down the road I'll go toward that size, but it's not for me right now and was informed the S9500 had really good zoom and low light qualities as well.

Two reasons for the 4 stars are:

You have to charge the battery IN the camera. The camera doesn't come with an external battery charger. I had to buy an external charger (another $20) that plugs directly into the wall without the cord to charge the battery outside of the camera. Nikon does sell an external batter charger for this but it's a charger that has a 4 ft cord that plugs into the wall case that came with the camera, again, not very functional unless you don't mind a long cord to charge your battery. The cord for me would have sufficed if I couldn't find a different charger, but I did. This comes in a few days so if it works, great! If not, then I will go back and get the corded charger.

The second reason is the WiFi. Not a deal breaker for me, but it seems to be a bit finicky and doesn't stay connected very long. The app needed for the WiFi isn't the greatest and the functions are very limited and you will need to set the settings on your camera to where they need to be before connecting WiFi because once WiFi is on, you cannot change settings on your camera (unless I'm missing something), only through your phone and those functions are limited to zooming in and out and is not quick at all. It also took me some time to get the WiFi to connect, but I think this was because the instructions on it weren't the clearest.

Overall, great camera for what I will use it for and the WiFi and battery aren't deal breakers for me. I will update later once I put it to test in a concert setting.

Update 4/28/13: I took this camera to a concert last night and was rather impressed. It took great pictures in the low light and the zoom is awesome! I didn't zoom to the fullest as it wasn't needed, but am impressed. And my battery was hardly used at all and I took about 100 pictures within a matter of a few hours.

Buy Nikon COOLPIX S9500 Wi-Fi Digital Camera with 22x Zoom and GPS (Black) Now

In the couple of weeks I've had the camera, I've really enjoyed it. In good light, it takes great pictures with vibrant colors and the flash works very well. The menu system is well designed which provides easy access to all of the camera's functions. I especially like the GPS features and panorama and 3D modes. Of course, the 22x zoom is great.

One big problem however is the cameras operation in even moderately low light situations. There are times when it refuses to focus even in normal indoor lighting especially when the zoom is being used. This prevents even taking a flash photo. It's especially frustrating since it seems to start out with a good focus and then veers away from it when it locks in. I'm hoping this is just a bug that could be fixed in firmware. My son's camera from a competitor works perfectly every time in identical situations.

The omission of an AC adaptor that allows operation of the camera (in addition to charging) is baffling. The cumbersome battery substitute adaptor is a poor alternative to this obvious feature. Not a deal breaker though.

Most importantly, certain basic functions are missing from the firmware. It's as if a marketing guy told the engineers to get rid of every extra item that could confuse a user rather than sensibly tucking them away into a separate area for when the user gains more experience. Here is a list of seemingly simple changes that I hope find their way into a firmware update before I have to decide whether to return the camera:

1. Get rid of the GPS log warning when powering down or at least let the user dismiss it. Waiting 10 seconds before you can put it back in your pocket gets annoying very quickly.

2. Provide basic shutter and aperture priority modes. The camera often makes wrong decisions, especially in dim light, and this would provide a fallback.

3. Provide additional focus modes for infinity (without having to be limited to a landscape scene) and maybe a distance focus control for situations where the automatic modes don't work. This may not be necessary if the engineers can get the low light focusing to work properly.

4. Allow control over how long the preview shows after taking a picture.

5. Allow edited images (zoomed, softened, etc) to be transferred via wifi. The instructions don't say they can't be transferred but they are disabled with an X through them on my iPhone with the Nikon app.

6. Allow full res images to be transferred to a smart phone via wifi.

There are probably more missing basic features but these are the ones I noticed right away. The first three especially are reason enough to return the camera if they are not fixed. It would be a shame for such a great camera to be hobbled by substandard firmware. Since I generally enjoy using the camera, I really hope Nikon is listening and has the technical skills to fix the problems.

Read Best Reviews of Nikon COOLPIX S9500 Wi-Fi Digital Camera with 22x Zoom and GPS (Black) Here

I was excited to get this camera as I'd had earlier versions of this Coolpix series and overall they are great cameras. It takes a good photo and is easy to use. But after using it for about 2 weeks, it started freezing after taking a few shots. I'd have to take the battery out to reboot and after that it would work for a few shots. The problem is getting progressively worse and I'm sending it back today for repair. For it's class this is a relatively expensive camera and it's disappointing to find this problem with the Nikon. Now in surfing the net I see that this is a more systemic problem than a one off outlier as I see others are reporting this too.

Want Nikon COOLPIX S9500 Wi-Fi Digital Camera with 22x Zoom and GPS (Black) Discount?

The Nikon S9500's wide angle and premium zoom were excellent features that worked well. I had the camera for one day when the battery, after a couple dozen shots needed to be recharged. It charged for several hours but the error message was only ever "battery exhausted." I was exhausted trying to get it to charge. This camera seemed to have a lot of potential but didn't want the headache of dealing with something that didn't work well right out of the box so I took it back.

Save 15% Off

Panasonic SDR-S26 SD Camcorder (Red)

I have read all the reviews I could find here and elsewhere about this camcorder, and I came away with the impression that the more critical opinions stemmed from unrealistic expectations or poor reading comprehension from the reviewers themselves.

As it turns out, I was right.

This is an inexpensive and very compact and lightweight standard definition camcorder designed for the casual user who does not want to sink a whole month's pay into just to record some personal events.

First, the good and bad:

Pros:

1) Unusually small and lightweight, this is easily carried in a jacket pocket.

2) The startup time, even when not set in Quickstart mode, is five seconds. Nice way to capture surprises on the go.

3) The iA mode, which automatically sets the iris, shutter, white balance, and other major aspects of recording, works pretty well, even though resorting to the manual settings is still required for some unusual applications.

4) The incredible 70x optical zoom is unparalleled in a camera at this price point.

5) The Optical Image Stabilization is considerably more effective than the more common digital stabilization found in all other cameras in this price range. Just don't expect to get away with using the full 70x zoom while hand holding it, though!

6) The MPEG2 format used for recording is easily handled under my admittedly eccentric choice of operating system, Linux.

7) The SDHC storage medium allows random access to recordings, easy deletion, no moving parts, and a storage medium that is handled under even Linux with a cardreader. Also, the camcorder itself is recognized under Linux, so the files can be manipulated through the integral USB port if desired.

8) The manual settings allow the user to adjust for unusual conditions, such as low light, just as long as you READ THE MANUAL FIRST, then experiment a bit on your own.

9) The camcorder is almost noiseless in operation, so there is no clicking from a DVD, whirring of a hard drive, humming of a DVC drive motor, or motor from the lens being zoomed in and out.

10) The integral lens cover, which is built into the front of the camera surrounding the lens, cannot be lost.

11) The barrel surrounding the lens area is threaded, allowing accessories, such as wide angle and zoom lenses and filters, to be screwed in for special applications. Those accessories are easily found right here on Amazon.

12) Hey! It even comes with a proper printed manual, a rarity in this day of PDF manuals available only on CD-ROM or via websites.

Cons:

1) It would have been nice if Panasonic had added a microphone jack to allow a separate microphone to be used. However, the integral microphone works rather well on its own.

2) In certain applications, especially indoors, the image can take on a reddish cast when using the default iA setting. This is easily overcome by adjusting the white balance for incandescent lighting, though, so no real problem.

3) The battery life of ~1 hour is rather short, and requires opening a cover on the bottom to replace when discharged. I already ordered two spares and a standalone charger.

4) This may be looked at as good or bad, depending on your opinion, but the battery does not charge with the cable plugged in while the camera is in use. I actually look at this as a good thing, since it does not wear out the battery by discharging it while it is charging, which can cause premature failure of lithium-ion batteries. It simply runs directly from the power cord when plugged in, which is no real problem, as far as I am concerned.

5) Even at the MagicPix setting, designed for extreme low light, this camcorder will not work in a completely dark room. I don't really even worry about that. If I really wanted to record in such extreme conditions, I would spring for a considerably more expensive night shot camcorder. It still does pretty well, in low light, as long as there is at least 2 lumens of light present.

My opinions on this are that this is unusually good for a camcorder in its price range, especially for its two main selling points of its fantastic 70x optical zoom and optical image stabilization.

It is so simple to operate that even a young child could understand it, using the nicely automated settings.

Yes, there are some circumstances that call for manual intervention, but the people griping about this, especially those attempting (apparently) to take footage inside a cave, would be well advised to READ THE MANUAL and not expect the impossible from such an inexpensive camcorder.

I was able to take some nighttime footage with this, with only sodium and mercury vapor light illumination, and it did pretty well.

And while it is true that my naked eyes are good in light far lower than this can handle, I have a more realistic expectation of it than some of the more critical people out there.

I intend to have a family member use this next year for my wedding, and I am confident that it will work just fine for that, too.

Nice work, Panasonic!

This Panasonic SDR-S26 camcorder is by far the best you can buy for the price, and is rated best camcorder of 2009 CES!

I have owned a few others and none of them had true O.I.S. (Optical Image Stabilization) and I assure you that this one does. My others had E.I.S. (Electronic Image Stabilization) and believe me there is a big difference. I have noticed a few other reviews on this camcorder, and some say the image stabilization works great out to 20x and good to 40x 70x is still tripod territory. That's good advise as a tripod will assist in producing great videos with virtually no camcorder movement. Please don't be confused between the O.I.S and plain old camcorder movement, with camcorder movement at 70x optical zoom the object that you are looking at may move somewhat due to arm and body movement, BUT notice with O.I.S. the image remains clear and crisp, with great detail, even with some hand shakiness. With E.I.S camcorders, which usually have less zoom capabilities, approx. 40x optical zoom, you'd notice while zoomed out, not only is there camcorder movement BUT the image is also a bit blurry and has limited detail, due in part to hand shakiness. So don't be confused or fooled by plain camcorder movement or the difference between O.I.S vs. E.I.S, as Panasonic's SDR-S26 with O.I.S and 70x optical zoom will absolutely exceed your expectations, as did mine, and amaze you with a spectacular camcorder experience. I am an extremely satisfied owner of the Panasonic SDR-S26 Camcorder, and I know you will be also.

You can also search the WEB for the Panasonic sdr-s26 and view some of the you-tube video zoom tests that were performed by camcorder owners and see the quality of the O.I.S. and the 70x optical zoom for yourself.

P.S. Don't forget to pick up a SD/SDHC flash memory card (preferably a 16GB, priced around $40.00)and possibly an extra battery (part # B-9681, priced around $14.00) both at AMAZON.COM.

Buy Panasonic SDR-S26 SD Camcorder (Red) Now

factory sealed box flawless condition worked perfectly . My new Panasonic SDR-S26 SD Camcorder is fantastic. over 3.5 hours record at highest resolution with 16GB chip on amazon battery life was hard to find info on but is about one hour of record time. so I would get a spare battery. I got mine @ duracelldirect.com for $15.38 (#B-9681) Says its a 3.7v on web site is listed for SDR-S25 but it is the right battery and works fantastic.

LOW LIGHT

I think you should learn to use manual focusIris and shutter for low light conditions but most cameras I,ve borrowed from friends wont even film in the same low light. Zoom is so good even the Stills of birds in the backyard are clearer than the lowly 3x optical of my 4 mega pixel. Stability is great out to 20x and good to 40x 70x is still tripod territory. For every day I can't find a better value Love this camera and Sellers excellent service highly recomend to friends relatives heck everyone!

Read Best Reviews of Panasonic SDR-S26 SD Camcorder (Red) Here

The Panasonic SDR-S26 SD Camcorder is a gem. I bought the thing for many reasons, but one draw for me was the effective anti-shake feature it has. That element smoothes out the video considerably. The camcorder also has an optical zoom that is rated at 70x. I find that to be a bit of overkill, but what the heck, it is about the most `zoomy' of any camcorder on the market today and it gives me bragging rights. The SDR-S26 has a host of manual settings for various light, subject and composition conditions, but the intelligent auto mode feature does a great job at figuring out how to set things no-hands needed.

The camcorder is all digital (no tape) and is capable of storing over 25 hours of video with a 32 GB SD memory card installed. I have been using an 8 GB card and that has provided enough capacity for me so far.

Although there is editing software (VideoCam Suite 2.0) included on a disk provided in the box, I have been transferring my pictures to my computer via an SD card reader in order to utilize my Adobe Premier Elements editing program.

There is no hurky and heavy battery hanging on the back of the Panasonic SDR-S26. The battery is small (like a cell phone battery) and located in an internal compartment. The battery life is purported to provide over an hour of continuous recording time. I doubt that is possible in ordinary and real situations, but the battery life is pretty good none-the-less. I would suggest carrying a spare battery when using the camcorder for documenting a major and lengthy event or when traveling away from an electrical outlet.

The unit has both video and still photo capacity. That is standard on most camcorders. However, the still pictures that it produces are not very good. The default picture size provides only 640x360 pixels and that resolution is wimpy. I didn't buy the camcorder to shoot still pictures, but it is nice to have that option occasionally.

I must admit that I am not a big fan of home video. I have had a couple of camcorders over the years and now have stacks of family oriented and travel video tape that I can't get anyone to watch even if a VCR is still around in working condition.

Be that as it may, I originally decided to buy one of those little `Flip' type video cameras just in case I found myself in a situation where recording the action was called for. After extensive research I discovered those popular miniature camcorders have some serious limitations that the Panasonic SDR-S26 did not have and it really wasn't that much larger in size. I wanted a small camera that I could easily carry around just in case I found an appropriate action scene that should be recorded. I found that both were small enough to fit in a pocket--shirt for one, pants or jacket for the other.

The SDR-S26 cost nearly twice as much as one of those pocket sized units, but I thought it was worth the extra money even if I probably won't use it every day.

When all was said and done, I decided to buy the Panasonic SDR-S26 instead of a Flip or the new Kodak ZX-1 because it did more than either, had that anti-shake feature, an extraordinary zoom and it was not all that much larger. It was a choice between buying a trendy toy or buying a `full function' camcorder. I went with the grownup version by Panasonic and do not regret it.

Want Panasonic SDR-S26 SD Camcorder (Red) Discount?

I love the camcorder. Slight disappointment that it did not come with a 'starter' SD card but otherwise it runs well, great light adjustment, thoughtful design, EASY to use. Image stabilization works good but don't expect stable images at 70x zoom unless you have a very steady hand. I recommend it to others and already have friends who purchased their own after seeing mine. Just pick up a 16gig card from Amazon and you'll be set.

Olympus E-PM2 Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera White

I am not disappointed at all with the price/performance of the E-PM2. I got it from an Amazon Marketplace seller on sale for $499 and I sold the bundled lens on Ebay for $119 because I prefer prime lenses--new and latest generation, best image quality Olympus has to offer in a digital camera, for $380 net of sold lens.

What I like about the new E-PM2

--Great low light abilities. Pics at ISO 3200 are still good.

--Touch screen controls are quick. I find I can work the controls on this camera faster than the E-PL3 I previously owned.

--Focuses better and faster than the previous generation PEN.

--Includes a little grip on the front. Makes handling camera much better.

I have previously owned Canon APS-C DLSR equipment and had purchased some high end L lenses.

I soon found that my favorite pics were using a 50mm f/1.2, shooting without flash, indoors and wide open most of the time.

I sold my Canon gear a couple years back and decided due to financial and social constraints, I needed a far less expensive camera that had to be small so it would not annoy people, and could still take beautiful pictures.

I read loads of great things about the new Olympus 45mm f/1.8 lens, but was hesitant with micro 4/3's due to the sensors lagging behind their APS-C cousins. Not wanting to wait any longer, there were some crazy inexpensive deals on the Olympus E-PL3 during the summer. I sold the kit lens, which by the way is good, and started shooting with the 45mm attached. I got some great photos, but as many of the shots I take are in low light, I was often let down by the 12MP sensor on the E-PL3. The high ISO capabilities showed too much noise at anything higher than ISO 800.

I was very pleased when I saw the OMD E-5 hit the market cause I knew its lower priced siblings would soon be on their way.

Bottom line is the E-PM2 can take photographs that look like more than just snapshots, and deserve to be called portraits. Remember, it is not just the camera, but the lens you put on it that makes the whole package. While the $399 45mm f/1.8 lens is great, it is not in the same class as the $1,600 Canon 50mm f/1.2, but I cannot justify the $1201 difference. As for image quality, at 16mp of near perfection for the price, you would need an immensely more expensive full frame DSLR and/or professional quality full-frame DSLR lenses to substantially improve your photos.

If you want compact and quality, Micro 4/3's is a much better size over any APS-C format camera, and the Micro 4/3's camp have hands-down the best selection of lenses out there for mirror-less cameras.

For me, there is no other choice if you are looking for an inexpensive camera and interchangeable lens system. PEN E-PM2 gets 5 stars from me.

*****REVISION*****

I have been using the camera on-the-go lately. Have to say it is hard to get an in-focus shot of faster moving subjects--kids. Yes, I am using a thin-depth-of-field at f/1.8, but even my old crop-sensor 8mp Canon DSLR from 2007 did better in continuous focus. Still love the form factor. Look forward to further improvements in mirror-less camera focusing. Will still leave 5-stars because this camera is NOT a DSLR. if you need DSLR features, then, for now, it is still only a DLSR can that deliver.

The Olympus E-PM2 is one of Olympus' 4th generation (digital) PEN series cameras. It shares the same sensor with the two other 4th generation PEN series cameras; the E-PL5 and OM-D. Not surprisingly, the image quality of each of these 4th generation PEN series cameras is almost identical. The E-PM2 is really small and now includes a small grip making handling a bit easier. The camera body is the same size and weight as a smallish compact. The autofocus speed and high ISO image quality is unmatched by any other camera this small. The Menu system is not great and appears suited to those who like the camera to make most of the decisions. The E-PM2 is priced at less than half of the OM-D. As such, it is a real bargain for very similar image quality. Obvioulsy the OM-D has many features and controls not found on the E-PM2 including a very good electronic viewfinder.

I believe each of the PEN series cameras offer a remarkable balance of portability, automated/manual controls and high image quality. It can be confusing though sorting through all the different yet similar cameras which now is in its fourth generation

The first three generation PEN series cameras essentially use the same sensor. Consequently, the image quality is similar especially for the first two generations (E-P1, E-PL1 & E-P2, E-PL2). One of the problems with the first two generation PEN series cameras is the lack of a focus assist infrared beam; auto-focusing is slow (and sometimes non-existent) in dim lighting. Also, the LCDs on the E-P1 & E-PL1 are not great.

The E-PL1 & E-PL2 each have a built in flash; the E-P1 & E-P2 does not (nor does the 3rd generation E-PL3, E-PM1, nor 4th generation E-PL5 or E-PM2). The built in flash on the E-PL1 & E-PL2 have a great (undocumented) feature; the ability to 'bounce' the built in flash for a much nicer flash result similar to an (albeit weak) external flash.

The third generation PENs (E-PL3, E-PM1, E-P3) finally included an infrared focus beam greatly improving auto-focus in dim lighting. The third generation used the same sensor as in previous PENs. However, there was a definite improvement (to the already good) color reproduction including automatic white balance presumably due to an updated .jpg processing engine (the raw files show less improvement). The color reproduction and automatic white balance on these third generation PEN cameras (especially at ISO 1600 and below and when using an external bounce flash) is as good as any camera I have ever used including very expensive DSLRs. Only the E-P3 of this generation has a built in flash but flash bounce capabilities have inexplicably been disabled on this flash.

The fourth (latest) generation (E-PM2, E-PL5, OM-D) uses a new(16mp)sensor providing better resolution and better/faster auto-focusing especially in dim lighting conditions. The real improvement is remarkably clean photos without much loss of detail at higher ISO settings. Although up until ISO 1600 the differences in noise levels are almost imperceptible, above ISO 1600 the E-PM2 (and O-MD) are in a class by themselves even compared to much more expensive cameras. It is truly amazing. Olympus includes incremental ISO settings between stops(ie ISO 2000) on all of their PEN models which is also helpful in not using a higher than needed ISO setting (Are you paying attention CANON & NIKON?).

However, the E-PM2 (and EPL-5 & OM-D) takes a step backwards from earlier PEN series cameras (especially the 3rd generation E-PM1, E-PL3 & E-P3) when comparing color reproduction and white balance (especially in good light/base ISO settings). Also, The E-PM2 and E-PL5 do not have a built in flash (its not clear why such small cameras would require the use of an external flash).

The included 14-42mm (28-84mm equiv) Kit lens is the same lens bundled with the 2nd and 3rd generation PEN series cameras and is similar (an ounce lighter) to the kit lens included in the first generation PEN series cameras. Other available kit lenses include the 17mm (34mm equiv) pancake prime lens and the 12-50mm (24-100mm equiv) lens included with the flagship O-MD.

The 12-50mm (24-100mm equiv) lens included on the O-MD and available separately is a very versatile lens especially at wide angle. But its image quality is no better than the other kit lenses and it is about the twice the weight. This heavier weight makes the lens unsuitable for the EPM-1 or E-PM2 cameras. The 17mm (34mm equiv) lens is really thin and light and turns any of these cameras (except the OM-D) into a true pocket camera. The f/2.8 aperture is very bright and well suited to the earlier PEN series cameras. Olympus consistently produces very sharp lenses capturing the finest details and each of these lenses are no exception.

Which one to buy? Any of the PEN series cameras will not disappoint. The answer really depends on your needs and budget; If color reproduction and automatic white balance is most important consider the E-P3, E-PL3 or E-PM1. If really quick autofocus, higher resolution and using high ISO settings are important then the E-PM2, E-PL5 or OM-D would be a good choice. If price and a built in bounce flash is important, the E-PL1 or E-PL2.

Buy Olympus E-PM2 Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera White Now

The Olympus E-PM2 camera, which I ordered for $100 off on black friday arrived. First things first: The quality of raw images of E-PM2 rivals many APS-C cameras, and it's the best in mu4/3 realm. Plus the camera is tiny compared to a DSLR. Does it deliver on the promises? Some thoughts after a month of use:

Pros:

* Low ISO images have certain depth and clarity that I only used to get with a DSLR (I've previously owned Canon DSLRs including Rebel Xti, 40D, 5dMkII).

* Colors & auto white balance of images are pretty good. Rich yet natural.

* Autofocus with Olympus 45mm f/1.8 is impressive. Initial acquisition is very fast in good light. Allows me to take pictures of our 1yr old toddler while he's on the move (mind you, he's not a sprinter).

* The camera is pretty fast in high speed mode. Shot-to-shot blackout time is short. Writing on SD card is quick.

* Touch-shutter works really well. I either use the center-point focus or touch shutter, both of which are fast and effective.

* The camera itself is good looking compared to most alternatives (I ordered the white one).

Cons:

* User interface has a long way to go to become photographer friendly.

-Changing the aperture in aperture-priority mode is inconvenient (dial only controls exposure compensation; changing aperture requires several button pushes).

-Small fonts are difficult to read (especially ISO).

-Settings like ISO, aperture, exposure time are not displayed in image preview, unless you go to the detailed view which shrinks the image to 1/4 size.

* In low light, camera is slow to focus with my favorite Panasonic 20mm f/1.7; AF tends to hunt (Panasonic GF3 doesn't do that).

* According to some web reviews & my experience, sensor-based image stabilization on E-PM2 is not effective. At best, gives half a stop to 1 stop improvement. Some says it's best to keep it off. That's what I do, after finding a few blurry images that shouldn't have been blurry based on shutter speed.

* Clip-on flash makes it inconvenient to pocket even with prime lenses---Panasonic GF3/GF5 are a lot more pocketable.

* JPGs at 100% view are disappointing in high ISO (very grainy). Raws are better.

* Colors on LCD screen are way too warm compared to what I see in actual images on my calibrated monitor.

The best features of E-PM2 are fast operation, fast AF in good light and best-in-class sensor. The images it produces are a notch above what I get from Panasonic GF3 in depth and clarity. On the down side, the user interface is clearly designed for the point-and-shoot user, not for the advanced amateur. Do I recommend E-PM2? If you get a good deal on the price (like how it sells these days---$450/$500 for the body/kit) and if you don't mind its other, relatively minor, shortcomings, I do recommend it.

=====================

UPDATE:

After discovering the extensive menu system, I was able to solve my main gripes with the user interface. Now I can use dial for controlling aperture. I can control the degree of noise reduction. I can turn off warm auto white-balance. There are a thousand other customizations you can make, which makes shooting a lot more fun. I'm very impressed by what Olympus offers here. The camera is nearly as capable as OMD (the $500 more expensive, 'pro' model) in a much smaller package. As for slowness of 20mm f/1.7 AF, I'd suggest checking out Panasonic 25mm f/1.4 (mine is on the way). It reportedly focuses a lot faster.

Read Best Reviews of Olympus E-PM2 Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera White Here

I am a photography amateur enthusiast. My other cameras are a Nikon D5100 and a D600 DSLRs with a range of lenses (prime and zooms). I've started shooting film back in early 90s on an old Nikon SLR.

I also own a tiny pocket Canon ELPH HS300 point and shoot, which I wasn't really happy with. The pictures were rarely better than what I can take with my iPhone, at which point as small as the camera is, it's too big.

I wanted something compact that could still take the breathtaking pictures my DSLR is capable of, and I spent a long time researching the best option. The main contenders were mirrorless cameras with largish sensors (for the form factor).

Against a Fujifilm x100: I have to say Fujifilm's x100 (and the upcoming x100s) is a beautiful camera, I really like the retro look of it. It also features a great APS-C sized sensor on it, which makes for a great picture quality. The problem with this camera is the sluggish auto focus, which for a compact "walk around" camera is especially problematic (apparently the upcoming x100s is supposed to improve on this). It was also little pricey for what I wanted to spend.

Sony RX100: Is a great little camera, which can take great photos. But I wanted something with a little bigger sensor and interchangeable lenses. You see I want to be able to invest the bulk of my money into lenses as no doubt the camera bodies become somewhat outdated every 2-4 years.

And then I gave the Micro Four Thirds cameras a consideration. See the Micro Four Thirds is an open standard Olympus and Panasonic have created, where you can freely use all m4/3 lenses on any camera body. More companies are joining this alliance each month. As a result m4/3 cameras have the biggest selection of lenses of any mirorless camera competitor.

It's exactly what this industry has needed for a long time. For companies to put an open standard together. No more vendor lock in and price gauging on lenses. Also you can be sure there will be long term support for this system as there appears to be quite a surge in popularity. More and more wedding photographers for instance are switching to this system, because of the ergonomics offered by much smaller and lighter gear required for all day shooting, as well as the selection of some really outstanding lenses for a decent price.

Just on this alone, the choice for me was clear. All I had to do now is pick a micro four thirds camera.

I've never used an Olympus camera before, but I've met photographers who have praised these cameras in the past. I read some reviews and researched the specs. I wanted compactness, and no need for a swivel screen.

This narrowed the choice for me down to an E-PM2:

It uses the same sensor as the top of the line OM-D so technically capable of capturing the same quality images.

It is small and light.

I really wasn't into the design of the camera, at first look I thought it was quite ugly, a more retro look would have been better, but that's just my taste. I have to say the look of the camera is growing on me though.

I elected not to get the kit lens, and I went with the 20/1.7 LUMIX "pancake": Panasonic LUMIX G 20mm f/1.7 Aspherical Pancake Lens for Micro Four Thirds Interchangeable Lens Cameras lens (immediately taking advantage of the open standard!)

So my first impressions after using this camera for a week (sorry for the long intro):

Wow! In fact I am so impressed that I am actually thinking about selling my DSLR gear completely. I was little concerned that maybe I wouldn't like the native 4:3 aspect over the 3:2, but it turns out 4:3 is actually much more suited for portraits. In portrait mode it gives you more flexibility. Where it might lack is certain landscapes, but those can often be cropped to 3:2 without much loss in quality. I can't tell a difference in picture quality between this camera and my DSLR.

Pros:

Autofocus. The speed at which this camera can auto focus and snap a photo is astounding. Way faster than my DSLR. In fact I thought the tap the screen to take a photo was a gimmick, but with such a fast AF, I find I am snapping twice as many photos than I normally do, and they are all in perfect focus. I was totally cough by surprise with how good snapping pictures feels with this camera, because of its responsiveness. There is a certain quality tactile feeling you get when you snap photos almost at the same time you touch the screen. A feature I didn't think I was going to use became my new favorite way of taking pictures. What's also great about it, if you're doing street photography, you don't even look like you're taking a photo. So your subjects are not distracted by it.

Image quality. I shoot raw. And I find photos have good dynamic range, which lets me do a lot with them when I post process in Lightroom. And I find even in low light I can take photos comparable to what I take with my DSLR.

Size. The camera is small and easy to cary, it fits in a jacket pocket, or a small bag. I can also now put it in my laptop case, and bring it to work with me.

Great UI As someone new to Olympus cameras, this was a concern. But I felt right at home with the user interface only after a few days of using the camera. I assigned the 'fn' key to my ISO settings, I shoot in Aperture Priority mode. Obviously this camera has much less dedicated buttons than the top of the line cameras, but I find E-PM2's buttons are sufficient for Aperture Priority style of shooting I do.

m4/3 availability of great lenses, with more 3rd parties announcing new products each month, it's truly exciting. Even things like pro cinema Black Magic camera coming out this year will feature an m4/3 mount. The adapters can be purchased for all sorts of lenses. In fact you can get a $31 C adapter and a CCTV lens RainbowImaging 35MM F1.7 TV Movie Lens + Lens Adapter for MFT M4/3 camera, fits Panasonic G1 G2 G3 G10 GF1 GF2 GF3 GH2 GH1 GH2, Olympus E-P1 E-P2 E-P3 E-PL1 E-PL2 which can let you create some very interesting effects/pictures. I've used my Nikon lenses on this camera and it works great. But the lack of focus peeking feature Sony cameras offer hinders this advantage somewhat.

Cons:

None. Really, when it comes to price and what you get for it, I can't think of a single negative to say about this camera.

Would like to see improved:

Manual focus. I haven't yet found the best way to take photos with adapted manual lenses. I have re-assigned my Rec button to let me zoom in. But its not ideal. Though this really can't be counted against the camera of this price, it would still be nice if it offered something like 'focus peaking' Sony cameras have. I think there is a way to use one of the Art filters to help with focus but its not ideal.

It's not a pretty camera. This might be just me. But would love a more retro (rangefinder look) at this price range. Like the OM-D without the rangefinder bulge would be beautiful. I went with the silver version. I would have liked the white version better if it didn't have the weird colored tan grip pad.

Conclusion:

One of the best buys in the category. You are not only buying a great camera but investing into a great system with great lens selection. You are also supporting an open standard in an industry dominated by proprietary lock-ins and price gauging.

Want Olympus E-PM2 Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera White Discount?

This is a review for the E-PM2 with the 14-42 kit lens

Amazing Auto-focus speed and accuracy. It feels like a camera commercial or something. In anything other than dim lights it's blazing.

Excellent image quality. Impressed with the dynamic range and color at high iso numbers especially.

Touch screen focusing is better than I thought it would be. Nothing about this camera feels gimmicky or poorly done.

Feels like a $500 camera in terms of build quality (in a good way). By this I mean everything seems tight and well constructed but it is clearly not an OM-D or a professional SLR. Nor should it be as this would raise the price.

Interface as a whole was a pleasant surprise and much better than my E-PL1. I do not miss the mode dial as the touch screen replaces that for me. In P/A/S modes the quick access panel (brought up by OK button) is great!!! Faster setting changes than my E-PL1 or a previous Pentax K-x DSLR.

Great Flash metering as well. This part seems much improved over the E-PL1 as well.

CONS:

It seems like Olympus could have put a soft AE-lock button on the screen. Another dial would be nice of course but probably outside of scope of the camera. No on camera flash but I am not sure there is room for one. Image stabilization good for about 1 stop (I am guessing) which is useful but something to consider when comparing this to its much more expensive brother the OM-D or even something like an RX100.

SUMMARY:

My first impression is a stunning upgrade from the E-PL1 to E-PM2. Looks larger in photos than it feels in my hands (almost too small). Compared to other cameras I have owned I think it has 90% of the image quality of a Pentax K-x and it blows away an E-PL1 (which I have taken excellent photos with). Focus speed is incredible. It felt more like a semi-pro DSLR with a fast prime lens than anything else. Kit lens is a little softer than the best glass I have owned (obviously) but not really a detriment to general photography. It is certainly a sharper kit lens than my Pentax 18-55 was.

I differ with some professional reviews and some other user reviews regarding usability. I thought given it's lack of physical controls and overall size it is very usable. The quick settings in P/A/S modes cover most everything you would commonly need to change on the fly. I was worried that it would be a glorified point and shoot (in terms of control and usability) and I now have a very different opinion. I also don't see how an EPL-5 is much of an upgrade unless you need an articulating screen.

Best camera body I have ever owned!! Not sure why some professional reviewers did not care for the camera much. True DSLR image quality in a tiny package with excellent performance. The biggest competitor in my mind is actually the RX100 which is much smaller with excellent image quality. I decided I wanted the ultimate image quality and flexibility of a this CSC and I have not regretted it once.

Save 31% Off