Sony Professional HVR-A1U CMOS High Definition Camcorder with 10x Optical Zoom

I bought this camera to start my production business with and it was the best move I could have made. This camera is great for a beginner like me. It is user friendly while still allowing for ajustments. The HD is also amazing, my customers that have there videos in HD are absolutely floored we they get their finished product. A few things that I can recommend are getting a tripod as well as an extended battery. The stock battery only provides about 45 min with LCD and if you add anything other then the shotgun mic it lowers it even more. Make sure you use only high quality tapes. (I found out the hard way) Good tapes for this camera are going to cost about $10 to $15 but they are worth it when you reduce the time for re-tape due to drop-out on the film. All together this for me is a great camera for the price. Anything better is going to run you about $8000 or more.

Correction: High-definition video camera records in 1080i, or 480 NTSC (known as standard DV or DV) specification with analog down-converting. -->It does NOT record in 720p, or 720i. However, this is not an issue, just a correction. Also, all the output (for editing) is firewire; a digital format. You can watch the output on a TV using composite, svhs or component. Audio is RCA L/R.

As the other gentleman observed, this is more a serious amateur (dare I say pro?) camcorder that begs to be used. This is far more than the average user would want or need. It's bigger and heavier than the basic camcorder. But it shoots HDV 1080i and has gained a reputation as a documentary camera in situations where the camera may get damaged.

Key features over the sibling HC1 and HC3

It's same size as the HC1, except the added on audio "stalk".

No built in flash, but you are shooting video, not stills.

Audio is far more flexible than the other ones. HC3 is in-camera only. HC1 L&R channels are tied together, no independent controls. HC1 also will only accept unbalanced input (or spend $269 on BeachAudio converter and another $200 on shotgun to get equivalent). A1u is balanced input (XLR) and separate audio.

A1u also has black stretch switch for better definition of darker shaded scenes. Also if you output to 4:3 SDV, you can choose letterbox, stretch or cropped output. Other camcorders don't offer this (not sure about HC3).

Overall a1u has over 50 added features vs HC1.

Also, if you intend to edit HDV, it's an expensive proposition. Be sure to thoroughly research this before committing. It requires a fairly beefy PC. Expect to consume about 13 gig per hour of video.

You can output SDV today and edit that with any $50 video editing program and later on re-output in HDV and burn to Hi-def once that becomes mainstreamed... futureproofing yourself.

7/08 -While AVCHD (flash memory) cameras are now becoming popular, they require even more powerful PC's to edit and as of this writing, software to edit the files is only now becoming available. So make sure you look at the entire workflow before jumping in. One nice thing is most all HD camcorders have either HDMI or component video out and can be used to play back to a HDTV in at full resolution. It's pretty awesome and will make you glad you bought one, even if you have to possibly wait to buy the rest of the components needed to edit.

PS Look for the Sony HVR-A1U in "Ice Road Truckers" and "Deadliest Catch" and other similar HD programs.

Buy Sony Professional HVR-A1U CMOS High Definition Camcorder with 10x Optical Zoom Now

This camcorder is from the Sony Professional division with pro level warranty support. Sound is 70% of the experience and this camcorder delivers pro level XLR connectors with 48V power. For best sound results manually set the volume as high as possble keeping the peaks below 0db. The CMOS sensor produces amazing HD quality. A head shot of a person wearing a ball cap facing into strong direct sun with a deep shadow across their face does not blow out the highlights and shows full details in the shadow. I'm using Sony Vegas 7 to edit the results and I'm very happy with both the camcorder and Vegas.

This is bigger than the small consumer camcords but is about the same size as my old Sony Digital 8 camcorder and it's smaller than any other pro camcorder. Pro shooters are always amazed and comment on how small it is. Nothing produces this level of pro results without spending a lot more money.

While as good or better than the current crop of small HD consumer camcorders for shooing in low light there are better pro models such as the Sony Z1 and V1 for low light. The manual settings are via the touch screen and a not included PDA stylus is a must have to keep finger prints of the screen. 24fps can be done but you need Cineform Connect HD to do the pulldown from the Sony CF24 as the native CF24 is choppy until you use Cineform. If 24fps is a must the Sony V1 is a better choice.

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I have been shooting consumer video since 1981. I started with a reel to reel system, worked with a camera and VHS portapack, did 8mm, Hi-8 and replaced my Digital 8 camcorder with this HDV camcorder earlier this year. Primarily, I use it for family functions, but I do shoot things that require me to gather better sound than what comes out of the built-in mics. The primary reason I bought this camcorder was at the time it was the lowest price HDV camcorder that had a way to connect to external audio sources. I wanted a Canon A1, but didn't want to wait the extra year or two it would take to save up for that!

I also liked the idea that it used tape. I have a DVR that I fill up all the time and then have to dump onto tape or DVD to store what I want to keep. Also, in my informal in-store tests, the picture with the AVCHD codec just didn't look as good... at this time. I use standard DV tape mostly, but I clean my heads regularly and only record on the tapes once. I can think of two lost half-seconds of video where the key frame was corrupted in about forty hours of collection.

Primarily, I found three things to be important going from SD to HD. One, picture stability. Use a tripod as much as you can and don't make sudden movements. Two, you need a lot of light to shoot good HDV. Three, focus is absolutely critical in HD.

The touch screen menu system took me awhile to get used to. However, you can adjust the menus to have a personal set of menus; putting the menu selections you use mostly at the beginning of the list. Even so, Murphy's Law seems to dictate that you need to hit at least two menus to get to what you want. On a tripod, I find I can navigate quickly to the fader button without too much shake; this is much harder to do when I am doing a handheld shot. Also, I strongly suggest you get an LCD protector for the screen.

In bright light, the camera is fantastic. I've shot landscapes that just blew me away watching on a 46" plasma HDTV. My son played flag football and I covered that a la NFL films all in close up and with lots of action in the frame. It looked great and very clear, even in slow motion.

Inside, it's a little different. Family functions tend to take place in low light: table lights, kitchen overhead light, that sort of thing. The camera is not designed to shoot in those light levels (to be fair, no HDV camera seems to be at this time). The video can get very grainy (especially with a lot of dark areas in the frame) and the colors tend to go reddish. I'd say it compares to my Hi-8 camcorder from the early 90's in terms of sensitivity. On the small LCD screen, it's pretty much impossible to determine how grainy it will look. You won't be able to tell until you play it back on something normal sized and then the artifacts can be distracting. I would say anything below a bright kitchen needs some additional light. I've tried a couple of LCD lights that fit on the camcorder, but I haven't found one that I like yet, so I won't recommend one at this time.

However, so far, the stuff I have shot at school seems to look fine under lots of fluorescents. And HDV seems to have a wider range than standard video. You can have a lot of light and dark in a frame before you completely blow it out and have white glowing blobs instead of kids in a spotlight against a dark background (parents have had camcorders for an entire generation; you'd think they would have noticed this by now!). And the camera does have a "Zebra" function that will alert you to areas of your frame that need to be toned down.

The final thing is focus. Again, in bright light, this isn't too big of a problem. Even in flag football, the auto focus worked remarkably well, adjusting to the focus point within a second in almost all cases. Indoors, it does okay with one big exception that I just found out: Christmas tree lights totally screw it up. I don't know what it is, but our tree lights, my friend's tree lights and my aunt's tree lights all had the auto focus totally confused. However, the focus can be manually controlled by a switch on the side and through the dial at the front of the camera. I quickly zoomed in all the way, focused and then began to shoot. In any case, I recommend you zoom in all the way before you shoot as it is very difficult to tell on a three inch LCD screen if the scene is properly focused, but it is very easy to tell when you are watching it on a 46" HDTV!

There is a single button on the side called "ASSIGN" that you can have set up to do a number of things. However, you cannot assign ANY function to the button, just SOME functions. For example, you can't set it to black fader.

A "nice to have" would have been an HDMI out. You have two proprietary outputs for standard video and component HD video that I have hooked to my HDTV permanently. I need both of them because the component only outputs the video, so I have to use the RCA outs of the standard audio as well.

The 10X zoom is okay. I think I would have liked about 15 20X though, especially since I primarily use the camera with a tripod. Another issue with a tripod is when you eject a tape. It exits from the bottom, so at least on my tripod you have to take it off the tripod, take the connection plate off and then reconnect it after you put in a new tape. This is an annoyance for me about twice a month as I generally shoot 60 minutes of tape every couple of weeks; not critical, but more of why did they change it from the top loading mechanism on my Digital 8 camcorder?

The battery life with the original stock battery that would get sucked dry in less than an hour. However, I picked up a six hour battery and got rid of that issue. Actually, that helps to balance the camcorder in my hand when I use the audio breakout box which fits on the top of the camera towards the front. I use that a lot because the built-in microphones seem to pick up more sound from the sides rather than straight on and they really seem to pick up a lot of wind noise. The external microphone that comes with the camera isn't bad. I shot a football game with thirty mile an hour gusts and only the worst ones came through the wind screen.

The camera will shot still pictures to a Sony MemoryStick. I have a 1GB stick and can fit something like 800 pictures on it. The pictures are okay (no flash) and they are in the 16:9 format of the camcorder. One nice thing is to be able to take a still while recording video. Again, in flag football, I could be shooting the action and then taking a still or two while the kids were running and the 10X zoom was much better than my 3X on my snapshot digital camera.

The camcorder comes with a hood for the lens with a built in lens cover. Unfortunately, if you want to put on any filters, the lens shade can't be used. I have a clear filter on my lens to prevent scratches, use the 37mm lens cover from my Digital 8 camcorder and generally live without the hood.

All in all, I'm pleased with the camera and generally astounded with the quality of the video. It took me a couple of months of use before I was totally comfortable with the camera layout and didn't accidentally turn it off when I wanted to start shooting. It's taken me longer to figure out how to best shoot in HD versus SD, but I'm getting there! I'd recommend the camera though there are now consumer level camcorders with external audio options that you might want to research before buying this one.

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I recently had the Canon GL1 and thought it was time to upgrade to Hi-Def. After reading about 30 customer and 20 pro reviews it was the only camera that was offered pro features and great image quality worth way more then the price. It is all because of the CMOS sensor the camera uses. It consumes less power, less money to produce, better image quality then CCD and does not smear light. Some people say it's a consumer camera because it only has a one chip sensor instead of three like a CCD sensor but a CMOS sensor is a lot different then a CCD. A single chip CMOS sensor is three mega-pixels just like three CCD chips. It should be considered a pro camera instead of a consumer camera.

OK; now what the camera can do..... It has a touch screen which is handy but you have to keep wiping it off because it smudges easily. The personalized menu is a great idea; you can have all your most used items at a touch away. The cineframe and cinematone features are a good idea if you want your movies to have a more professional Hollywood look to them. The picture quality in good light is almost identical the image quality of the Sony Z1U which cost $4,000 and that's really amazing!! The low light performance is not that good, this is a downside of the CMOS sensor. I really like the exposure lever, one strange thing is that the camera does not give exposure increments like F1.6 ..... F2.6 it just gives you a bar. Three quarters of the bar is for exposure and the last quarter of the bar is gain which digitally brightens the picture and makes the picture real grainy. Just make sure you adjust the exposure manually in dark places and turn the gain off by not going to the last quarter of the bar. It has some other great features and that I am not going to go in to but you can read about them on this page. One other thing is that this camera is quite compact and I am really amazed at the picture quality that it takes.

Over all it is great camera and a good choice for any one who needs a good Hi-Def camera for a low price.

I hope this review helps and I will be adding more to this review.

06/29/08

I don't know what the problem was with the guy below me. I think he had problems in low light with the camera, this camera is not the best in low light. The auto focus is a little slow indoors but it's a lot better in good light. He also had problems with the mic, there are a lot of settings for the mic and you have to set them right to get good sound. When rewinding tapes I did not think it made a horrendous noise but it does make different pitches as you rewind it. The camera is small, they made it compact so pros could get great images in tight places. If you need a good low light camera go with the Sony V1U.

07/18/08

Price went up $300 from when I bought it, I guess I made a good investment.

Panasonic SDR-S7 Flash Memory Camcorder with 10x Optical Zoom (Black)

We're days away from the birth of our first child, and we wanted something to be able to capture some quick video... it's (of course) not an HD camera, but the quality is fine for viewing on the computer screen or a standard def TV. The size is great, the price is right.

As has been said, the battery life is listed at 40 minutes, though I haven't tested that, that's real world use (through starting and stopping, etc.), it should last longer than an hour of continuous shooting. I also bought an off brand replacement battery along with it for $12.

The 3 main requirements I had were small size, low price, and records to flash (Because I knew I'd never use the camera if I had to keep up with tapes, and I didn't trust the performance of DVDs or the longevity of hard drive). If you're willing to accept a slightly lower quality for those things, then this should fit the bill perfectly.

I bought this camera as an impulse buy at Best Buy, and I really like it. There are some pros and cons just like anything but so fat the experience is good, and the price was right.

Lets go over the cons first, as for some people the cons will break this camera. First the video quality, no way around it this camera is made for YouTube. You are not going to get great video quality out of this camera, very bad in low light but ok in sunlight. Second the battery life. To be honest it kinda sucks, 40 mins on a charge is a little lower than I wanted considering the size. I want to take this every where and use this all day, but that is not going to happen. The buttons on the camera are also a point of contention, as they have almost no tactile feedback. I would like it if they clicked a little or something, but that is a very small problem.

Now the Pros. The selling point of this camera was the size. It is really small! It fits in my pocket no problem, and I literally take it everywhere. I have even tied it to a kite , and the top of my car just to see if I could, and it was great. Then comes the price, for $299 you can barley beat it, There are some cameras like the Flip but they do not have the flip out LCD (very handy) or replaceable batteries and memory.

Bottom line is this camera is pushed to the YouTube crowd, short videos that you make at parties and stuff like that. Perfect for a Teen with limited cash to spend on their first camera, but wants a little more versatility than the Flip. Or the person like me who has a better camera, but needs something to take everywhere. The sound and video quality are just right for compressing way down and converting to flash, and to be honest if you want to get great video quality spend more money, nothing in this price range is going to be good enough for an HDTV or even many SDTVs.

The battery life issue can also be solved for around 25 bucks by searching the model number(vw-vbj10) of the battery on Google. I have two 3rd party batteries and they work great.

I am happy with my purchase and would recommend it to someone looking for something small and versatile to have fun with.

Buy Panasonic SDR-S7 Flash Memory Camcorder with 10x Optical Zoom (Black) Now

I only feel obliged to write this because I have owned both camcorders. I bought the Panasonic at Wal-Mart the 1st of August. I wanted to tape my sons football games with it. The first couple of weeks I tried it ou and it seemed to do OK. Even though the MOD files could not be recognized by my computer the supplied software, while basic, did transfer them from the camera into the computer as mpg files that it would recognize. I successfully created a DVD using Roxio 10. As I used it more I noticed how bad the video was (I guess the newness wore off). The background in shots looked extremely soft and fuzzy. Anything that was close (10 to 15 feet) or if you zoomed way in was OK. When I was really disappointed was when I tried taping my sons first football game. I used it in conjunction with the video mode on my Fuji camera. I just put the panasonic on a tripod and did not zoom in far so I could capture the whole play with out moving the camera. I was not expecting to see good detail doing this but what I got turned my stomach. It was so fuzzy and the color was so bad that I could not tell one team from the other. there was no way I could have ever read a jersey number. Even being able to sort the players by teams would have helped but the video was useless. Luckily I had a few days to still take it back. I paid $299 for it at Wal-Mart. I decided to go with the Canon FS100 ($399 at Wal-Mart but I got mine through amazon for $315). It is a SD Card based camera just like the Panasonic. The Panasonic is the smallest camcorder I have ever seen, so it is handy to have if the video quality is not an issue. The FS100 is about twice the size but fits more comfortably in larger hands (still smaller than a pop can). It feels more solid. When I saw the video I knew I had made the right choice. it records in MOD format also. Unfortunately the software that came with it would not load on my computer. I have heard that the software is not worth much any way. I had WINAMP on my computer which converted them. I have read that you can just change the file name from *.MOD to *.MPG but I have not tried that yet. I had video from the Panasonic on my computer still so i duplicated those shots using the CANON and made another DVD alternating Panasonic,Canon,Panasonic,etc. The difference was unbelievable. If you want a small camcorder for goofing off with friends the Panasonic might fit the bill. If you would actually like to be able to go back and enjoy the videos, produce good DVDs and use the videos as a learning tool, choose the CANON FS100. By the way I just started buying stuff from Amazon and they are wonderful. I ordered the camcorder on Monday about midnight and I was playing with it by noon on wednesday.

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I received this unit yesterday afternoon, and started playing with it immediately. Here are my first impressions of the camera.

Overall Impressions:

If you have a tight budget, and are looking for a unit that uses standard memory cards for recording (as opposed to a hard drive), produces REASONABLE quality digital video and audio, and has the standard set of features, you'll like this camera. It is compact (which some might think is not good), light-weight and easy to use.

The biggest drawback is not so much with the camera, but with the marketing. It is sold as having "DVD Quality Recording" capability (there is even a label on mine on the side of the camera as a testament to this), which is not the case once you view your first video. If you are okay with a 640x480 resolution image, then you'll be okay with this camera; otherwise, save yourself the trouble if you want REAL DVD quality!

Now, here are some specific pros and cons I have noted so far about the camera. I have included my own personal rating (impact) for each one. Remember, these are MY ratings based on my need.

Pros

1. (Impact: High) The features provided are surprisingly numerous for the price.

2. (Impact: High) Sound quality is better than my previous unit, and seems quite sensitive to sound. The unit records at 48K Hz in 256Kbps AC-3 stereo format (through a single opening on the front of the unit), and offers several selectable special audio recording features (wind reduction and a zoom feature which increases or decreases sounds/noise not directly in front of the camera while zooming).

3. (Impact: High) A 4GB SD memory card can record 50 minutes of XP video and audio (the highest quality available on the camera). With current prices of 4GB SD cards, this is not bad. Note that with 40-70 minutes of battery life, it doesn't make much sense going to a larger memory card unless you have multiple batteries!

4. (Impact: High) The USB connection provides easy transfer of files to a PC or Mac. I had no problems getting my Windows XP Dell computer to recognize the unit, which added the camera as a removable disk. Interestingly, the unit organizes the video files into separate folders (one for each day), although I saw nothing on the unit menu playback that showed the unit uses this information.

5. (Impact: Medium) Price (why I bought the camera). I picked up the camera on sell for $140. I should mention that I would NOT purchase this camera (for its quality and features) for more than this amount!

6. (Impact: Medium) The unit is made in Japan. This might seem an odd "pro" to some but I have exceptional bad experience with electronics made in China, and personally steer clear of such items now. It is possible some parts are Chinese, but I like knowing that the unit comes from somewhere with more experience producing quality electronics.

7. Videos can be created in either letterbox (4:3) or widescreen (16:9) format.

8. The camera has a built-in cover to protect the lens and easy to use.

9. The screen/viewer (monitor) is surprising good (brightness, clarity, clear of defect spots) for the price. We'll see if it stays that way....

Cons:

1. (Impact: High) The battery is a clear con. According to the manual, it takes 2 hr 15 min to fully charge the battery, which lasts from 40-70 minutes. This means it takes at least twice as long to charge as it takes to discharge. I have already resolved to ensuring I keep the camera plugged between even intermittent uses. Besides the long time to charge the battery, you should be aware that the battery will not charge while the unit is turned on. You MUST turn it off to charge the battery.

2. (Impact: High) Be aware that while Panasonic states that the camera will record in 16:9 and 4:3 formats, it is more accurate to state that the camera alters or manipulates the lens to produce the videos. This requires a technical explanation. I examined the file information for a video that I produced in 16:9 (widescreen) mode, and was surprised at a few things. If you record a video in 16:9 format and run the raw .MOD video file directly in a program like MS Media Player, you will note that your videos are compressed (in width) to fit the 704x480 resolution (faces look narrow, circles look oval, etc). Also, the actual video resolution was 704x480 (330K), though the specs in the manual state the effective pixels are 300K in this format. If you do the math, you will see 704x480 is NOT a 16:9 ratio (it is 22:15). This means the videos must be "stretched" horizontally to approximately 853 pixels wide to fit the 16:9 format (or crushed vertically to about 396 pixels, meaning loss of data). With a 21% stretching or crushing, this ultimately affects either video quality or size (which I noted when I played the video back in true 16:9 format). I also examined files in 4:3 video resolution mode and found they ALSO are in 704x480 resolution (though the specs state the effective pixels is 340K.) The stretching/crushing for the 4:3 format is not as severe, so recordings in this format will produce a video that is of slightly better quality than that of the widescreen format (just not in wide-screen). Transforming the raw 704x480 into either 16:9 or 4:3 formats means you will have to do some video editing. If you know how and don't mind the hassle, then you're okay. You will need to use a video editing program like the MotionSD STUDIO software (provided with the camera) to get it into the proper format.

3. (Impact: Medium) While every feature setting can be viewed in the LCD monitor, it took me some time to realize that these features (or ANY menu displays) will NOT appear if the monitor is in "self-portrait" mode (where the screen is flipped out and turned 180 degrees). Also, in this mode, everything you see is a mirror of the image being recorded. This could take some time getting used to if you are moving the camera while having it trained on you as well as images in the background. You can get the features to return (and the image to NOT be in the awkward mirrored mode) by pushing the monitor back against the camera with the monitor screen facing out. I found no explanation for why it was designed this way, but I personally find this odd.

4. (Impact: Medium) You have to plug the AC adaptor into the unit before you can connect the camera to a PC or to your TV for transferring or watching videos. I find this excessively restrictive.

5. (Impact: Medium) The battery/SD card slots are accessed through a door on the bottom of the camera. Unfortunately, I am using the unit on a tripod, which means the tripod connection adaptor, screwed on to the bottom of the unit as well, prevents easy access to the SD card (meaning I can't easily swap out memory cards while recording).

6. (Impact: Medium) Feature settings on the camera are split into "Basic" and "Advanced" but as yet, I cannot discern the logic in how features were assigned. Some I would think are Basic are under Advanced and vice-versa.

7. (Impact: Medium) I have not looked for another battery that would provide a longer life for recording (40 minutes is really not much), but my assumption is that since the battery fits into a slot on the bottom of the unit, it might be hard for Panasonic to produce a more powerful battery that fits here. This means you may need multiple batteries if you're planning an all-day trip or event.

8. (Impact: Medium) Video files are saved as ".MOD" file extensions, although the file seems to comply with the MPEG-2 format. I had no problems getting my computer to recognize this format. However, you should verify you can work with this file type, or be aware that you will need the included software to successfully transfer the files into a .MPG (mpeg) file format.

9. (Impact: Low) The layout of the manual does not make it easy to find specific features.

10. (Impact: Low) The buttons on the side of the camera are relatively small. If you have big hands or fingers, you might find it difficult to work your way through the menus. The good thing is that you are not likely to do this very often.

11. (Impact: Low) No SD memory card comes with the unit (so be sure to purchase your own!)

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I was looking for a camcorder to capture memories of our kids. I'm pretty cheap and not a video snob. That being said, I wanted a camcorder that wouldn't break the bank and one that I wouldn't be afraid to take out of the house. I purchased it from Best Buy only because I needed it right away, it was on sale for the same price as here. I brought the camcorder home and charged the battery and started shooting. Played it back on 42' DLP HD TV and the picture quality, while certainly not HD, was just a good if not slightly better than our old Sony HI8 camcorder, and this was SP video setting (medium). I tried some recording using XP setting (highest quality) and didn't notice enough of a difference to sacrifice half of the recording time. Dark settings do not record well, I think there is a night setting but haven't explored that yet. The 40 minute life of the battery isn't anything for Panosonic to brag about but for my needs, multiple 1 to 2 minute clips and occasional longer ones, its longer than you think. I found many websites that sell the battery for as little as $11.00 and ac/dc chargers for $20.00, a very affordable solution in my opinion. Now the ultimate test, will it work with my macbook? Yes. Sold. I just pluged it in and iphoto grabbed the still pics and imovie grabbed the vids. I have a new macbook w/ intel processor and iMovie '08, I understand older versions will not work. To sum it up, Affordable price, good video quality, compact and lightweight, and not afraid to take it anywhere. It is just what I was looking for.

Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens

Many people have stated the facts about this lens. Instead of restating them, let me add what I use it for:

For nature photography, this is the only lens I need. Just put something pretty in the foreground (flowers, rocks, etc.) and let the lens magically stretch out the horizon to add drama and flair to the shot. Makes beaches MAGICAL... Makes forests imposing. Adds desolation to the desert.

And from a business perspective:

As a wedding shooter, I use it to stretch out small/boring churches and make them more dramatic. It is also great to use from above for dancefloor shots and really makes the shots DYNAMIC and interesting.

And finally:

If you are deciding between this and the 17-40, let me save you some time... there is a huge difference between 16mm and 17mm. Don't waste time buying the 17 and then selling it at a loss to upgrade like I did.

If you're going to go wide.. go wide baby. ;)

I have owned both this and the original version. The new lens is better in the corners and flares less but the corners are still a little soft at f2.8 and you can get the lens to flare a little if you try. I haven't seen the loss of clarity above 20mm that others reported. Perhaps you would see a slight difference in eyelashes if you did a lot of portraits but this is probably not the best choice for a portrait lens. It is a somewhat better lens for shooting landscapes and other shots where edge to edge clarity is important.

But the differences between the two versions are minor and in some instances irrelevant. If you don't shoot a full frame camera the soft edges don't appear in the photo. And flare is a minimal issue at most. It rarely appears and is easy to fix in Photoshop if it does. I would opt for the original if I didn't shoot full frame based on the price difference alone.

My only problem with the original was when I had to shoot hand held. Sometimes you can't bring a tripod along which rules out shooting at f16 or 22 so I occasionally ended up with shots that were soft in some of the edges. The new lens will solve that. That is the only reason I decided to upgrade.

I haven't used many other lenses in the same range so I can't compare quality with other makers but I'm not aware of anything reputed to be better. I have Canon primes as well as other Canon zooms and in actual use all are generally close in quality. I use the primes if possible when I plan to crop or enlarge a lot but I could still get by nicely with the zooms.

So, if you shoot less than full frame or if price is an issue, get the original. If you shoot full frame but need maximum clarity in the center (portraits for example), test both versions first. If you shoot full frame and need maximum edge to edge clarity, go with the new lens.

Update: Having shot this lens for a long period I would discount the comments about problems above 20mm. I owned the first version as well and I don't see a difference in the 20mm to 35mm range. On the contrary, I am increasingly impressed with the image quality and sharpness of this lens throughout the range. I recently used it into a very narrow slot canyon where I couldn't take more than the camera and the lens attached to it and took shots from 16mm up to 35mm that all came out very sharp and rich. Granted I wasn't shooting wide open because I needed lots of depth of field but the point is the lens delivered the best shots of that trip. In terms of versatility, this lens is unmatched for wide angle use by Canon owners. I also have the 14mm f2.8 II, 17mm f4. TS/E and 15mm fisheye for comparison. This is the one wide angle lens I always take along.

Buy Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens Now

I've read some pretty critical reviews of this lens; from my perspective some of these could be due to an occasional bad copy, but others are likely due to the owner expecting way too much from a UWA zoom lens. Most complaints center on lack of corner sharpness and/or light fall off/vignetting at the wide end and wide apertures. I've owned and extensively tested 4 high end UWA Zooms to date now; the Canon 16-35 f2.8 L II, the 17-40 f4 L, the EF-s 10-22, and the Nikon 14-24 2.8 ED (the accepted gold standard for UWA Zooms), and can tell you that the Nikon is the only one that can reasonably (but not perfectly) hold the corners at the extreme wide ends of FL and aperture. Not surprisingly however the Nikon is yet another $400-$500 more expensive than the 16-35II (even more when you factor in the adapter to shoot on a Canon). In real world shooting at f/8 to f/16 however, I can confidently state that you are not going to see any meaningful difference between the 4 lenses without resorting to some serious pixel peeping gymnastics, and even then I'll gladly take bets that most couldn't tell the unlabeled photos apart. So confident in fact that I finally traded in my revered Nikon for an excellent copy of the 16-35II.

Yes, this lens exhibits some corner softness and light fall off at the wide end and/or at f2.8, however this starts to clear up nicely even as low as f/4 and is gone by f/8. By comparison, if you really want an eye opener, look at the vignetting on the 17-40 wide open (f/4) two thirds of the image is dark with only a small central spot unaffected (incidentally, those that post that the 17-40 suffers no corner vignetting are probably shooting JPEG and not examining the RAW image). Contrast this to the 16-35 wide open at f/2.8 where only the extreme edges and corners are dark. Same with corner softness, it does exist at f/2.8 but clears up nicely by f/8. In all cases, if you shoot this lens at the same settings as the 17-40, it outperforms its smaller cousin in all aspects (and the 17-40 an excellent lens in its own right). The 16-35 is more than just a 17-40 that goes to f/2.8, it is a significant improvement at all apertures and focal lengths.

I did some extensive testing with filters and found, contrary to claims in other reviews, no detectible difference in vignetting between a slim or regular UV filter at the 16mm wide end. Maybe there is a slight difference that some purists can see, but for the life of me I can't tell the difference, so I use a regular thickness filter for the convenience of being able to use the normal dust cap. The 82mm filter size is also often cited as a point of criticism. Yes, 82mm filters are larger and more expensive, but that's the price you pay for a lens with these specifications. At least this lens will accept filters, try that with the Nikon. Finally, I've also heard criticism that this lens starts to go soft above 24mm, but I personally haven't seen any evidence of this either. Maybe those are bad copy issues again? But mine is perfectly sharp (stunningly sharp in the center) throughout the entire range.

In short, if you absolutely must have a UWA Zoom that has razor sharp corners at f/2.8, you're going to need to go to other extreme measures such as the Nikon 14-24 or maybe a Zeiss, but then you've got all of the manual focus/exposure issues to deal with. In most real world applications at f/8 to f/16, this lens easily holds it's own against the Nikon 14-24 and definitely edges out the 17-40. In my experience, if I am shooting at f/2.8, I'm likely trying to blur the background anyway, so why would I care if the corners are soft? And if shooting in low light I can't notice the vignetting in the corners either. In any case, it's easily corrected in DPP anyway.

Read Best Reviews of Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens Here

Allow me to fill in a little niche gap here. Obviously this is a great lens for still photographers, but for all of the DSLR filmmakers out there who are having trouble with lackluster and muddy video results, the problem lies not with your camera; you need to step up to the L-Series glass. The primary issue with the 7D, 5D Mark II, etc. is the chunky artifacting and pixellation that comes from the poor compression codec built into the processor, or so we all thought. However, the key is, primarily, the quality of the glass in front of the sensor. This lens seems to nullify nearly ALL of the drawbacks of the HD video processing in my 7D. I can expand frame grabs up to 4k resolution, and they still hold up! 2K and 3K looks fantastic. THE GLASS MAKES THE DIFFERENCE. It's borderline magical.

This lens is nice and fat, just like a cinema lens, and therein lies much of its power. The bigger glass allows more light to enter into the sensor, giving the camera more "information" to pack into the frame, whereas with cheap, small lenses, the sensor has to essentially blow up and extract a muddy image from a tiny window. Drop the contrast, sharpness, and saturation settings to zero, add some L-Series glass, and your DSLR video can compete with Genesis, Viper, and can even hold its own against Red, at 1/10th of the cost.

This lens is perfect for the 7D's APS-C sensor. With the 5D, vignetting is a bit of an issue wide open. The focal range is perfect for walk-around footage, steadicam shots, and wide-angle effects shots. Consider this an essential range.

If you want professional-quality video, you need to have L-Lenses. I no longer care about the cost...I am immediately replacing my lens lineup with L-Series glass. I can't believe I've run a photo/video business for 6 years without L lenses! Besides, compared to other lens manufacturers, L-Series lenses are actually quite cheap. I've had the benefit of comparing this with Panavision lenses and I can assure you, there's no significant difference in the results. NONE. This is a gold mine for independent filmmakers.

Shell out the cash. AND be sure to add a few hundred more to the cost of this lens, in the form of high-quality filters! Protect your glass! And do it properly...there is no point in spending $1k+ on a lens if you're going to ruin it and put a piece of plexi-glass in front of it...just because you want to save $50. Get a $100 multi-coated (MRC) UV filter from B+W and just think of it as an insurance policy on your lens. Put on the filter the moment you take out your lens and never take it off.

Happy shooting! You will love this baby.

Want Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens Discount?

UPDATE: Since posting this review, I have done further experimentation and am coming to a conclusion (no new info from Canon thus far) that (in addition to this lens's gaussian factor) this new version is just more difficult for current camera bodies to focus, which is probably 70 percent of the problem that I'm seeing. Since this was released for the new 1DmIII camera body, we can hope that the 19 enhanced cross-type sensors will handle this lens better than current bodies. I am leaving the rest of the review as written, because the tradeoff against the long end is real, as is the gaussian effect beyond 24mm relative to the original version. Also because it accuratley reflects how others will encounter this same phenomenon. Based on this, I would up my star rating to 3.5 if they had decimals.... Also: Would like to clarify my remark below about it cleaning up the corners as advertised. I mean that remark to apply to the 16-20mm range only, because at 24mm I have a test shot showing a better corner from the original version I lens, which is to re-emphasize that 24mm is the point where the older lens takes over... END UPDATE

Canon has hyped this new lens as an improvment over the great original 16-35, but in reality it's not a net improvment at all. Rather, it is just a tradeoff... What they're not telling you is that, compared to the original version, this lens goes soft at focal lengths beyond 24mm, where they are near the same in quality. I acknowledge that the new lens DOES clean up the corners as advertised, but if you shoot people for a living like I do, be prepared for soft eyes and disappearing eye lashes looking back at you. In many common shots this lens cannot resolve eye lashes at near distances, where the old version can and does... If you hate seeing soft eyes in a slew of your professional pictures, you will find some consternation in this lens just as I have... I am not happy with the compromise at all... Everything else about the lens is what you expect from a Canon L, which is to say it has awesome build quality and it's heavy. I have already owned two copies of this lens and have shot and tested a third. They all have the same softness problem. It was apparently a deliberate design compromise, but Canon's support techs have not yet been brought up to speed on how to explain or position this to customers, at least not in my experience. I have frustrated them by asking this question on the phone repeatedly, and they can't answer it. They're starting to get mad when I call back... I did send my first one in for calibration. They found something to adjust, but it did not help.... Moral of the story: If you like your original version, DON'T sell it. You need BOTH. This new one will effectively be your 16-20mm, and the old one will be your 24-35mm... I think it's very sad needing to carry two of the same lens, but that's what this situation has come to. We definitely needed a fix at 16mm, and this one provides it. But it comes at the expense of messing up the 24-35 range where the original version was awesome and where it is still the king.... Others have pointed that you can sub the 24-70/2.8 into this range, and I agree, but at the expense of having to change lenses way more often and having to always have the 24-70 available.... I'm finding this new situation very iconvenient.... Personally, I'm just going to think of this as the super bulky and inconvenient 16mm prime that they should have built instead.... Oh, and final note: Canon continues to make the old version of the 70-200/2.8L despite having added the IS version. I think this 16-35 thing should be that way, too, because many people who do my type of work for a living will choose the sharpness of the original lens over the corner-CA-elimination factor of the newer lens. If I had to choose just one of these lenses, I would choose the OLD one, which I would rate at 4.5 stars versus this turkey. I think discontinuation of the original version at this point in time would be both unwarranted and mildly insane. Can you tell I like sharp pictures?

Canon PowerShot S50 5MP Digital Camera w/ 3x Optical Zoom

I have been a dedicated film camera user for several years and a skeptic of digital photography. Until now.

I chose the Canon S50 after about two months of research into contemporary cameras. I relied upon a digital photography portal called "Digital Photography Review" to compare different models, and then used Amazon to compare prices. If you are making the move to digital, it is wise to factor in the price of image editing software (I use --and highly recommend--Adobe Photoshop Elements), an upgraded memory card, and an additional battery. The S50 does not come with a case, so add that to the list as well.

There has been some fair criticism leveled at digital camera manufacturers for their emphasis on mega pixels. I cannot argue with this; however, having 5-mega pixels over 4 (at a slight price premium) does give you the flexibility to later crop images to your liking, yet, retain good resolution. One of the common complaints against the S50 (over the slightly less expensive 4-mega pixel S45) is the issue of purple fringing at wide angles. My own experience has been that, even at the widest angle, color distortions are virtually non-existent in this camera. The image quality is excellent and skin tones are very good even when using a flash. The flash is a tiny band at the top right (when you face the lens) but, despite its small size, it is very effective for indoor pictures. The camera is quite small for all it can do. The number of manual controls is astounding; I have a feeling this camera offers much more creative freedom than my previous one, a film SLR from the mid-eighties, which came with three detachable lenses, a separate flash unit, and a large carrying case that, when filled with all equipment, weighed about 8 pounds!

Digital cameras generally have one drawback--shutter delay, and this is one area that the S50 does not perform well. I have seen shutter delay to vary between almost no delay to little more than a full second. Of course, I have not used other digital cameras, so I cannot tell how this compares. Another weakness is the flimsy lens cover: you have to be careful when closing the cover. I also managed to scratch the LCD screen within a few days of receiving the camera, although this does not affect the images in any way. A protective case would have helped (why doesn't Canon include one!). The included compact flash memory card has a capacity of only 32MB. I would recommend buying a much larger card (such as a 512MB card) that can store a very large number of images (several thousand at lower resolutions). With a large card, the battery inevitably runs out out before the card is full. Buy a spare!

Overall, I enthusiastically recommend the S50, especially if you are making the move away from film cameras. The S50 has irreversibly drawn me away from film cameras, even though I did not think that was possible just a year ago. Perhaps it will also transform your perspective.

This is my third digital camera, my previous was a 3.2MP Casio QV3000EX. While Casio is not a well known name in the US for cameras, it's still hard to find a digital camera today that matches the QV3000EX feature/price point. The S50 does this and more!

The Good:

1. Made in Japan (not China as some other Japanese cameras ie Minolta).

2. Metal case, and it feels like it is well made (heavy). Buttons give a solid feel.

3. Turns on quick 4 seconds.

4. Small size. This will easily fit into your shirt pocket. The S50 has the features of a G3 and the compactness of the S400. The best of both worlds. No other 5MP camera comes close to this size, with the exception of the Minolta F300.

5. Extreme manual control: 10 aperature settings (most digital camaras have 2), 45 shutter settings! You will not find a camera with more control at this price.

6. Lens can zoom in macro mode. Others such as Minolta S414 cannot.

7. Fast Canon lens great pictures in low light and little to no blooming (purple fringe). In my opinion, Canon makes the best digital camera lens. The Casio QV3000EX has a Canon lens, and it takes great pictures. The lens makes or breaks a camera, don't compromise here.

8. Will NOT turn on when in your pocket. It's just plain annoying that manufacturers continue to make knobs that turn at the slightest touch. The dial on the S50 gives a solid and metal sounding click.

9. Battery charger is small an unobtrusive. Fits into the smallest of camera bags.

The Bad:

1. You pay a price for Canon. But you get what you pay for. You can get a cheaper digital camera, but you will not get one that has perhaps the best lens, great auto focus, and exreme manual control, and in the end great pictures. Take a look at the sample pictures at Canon's site. Compare them to similar cameras. You will wonder why you thought of buying another brand. Also consider the S400 for a more limited point and shoot, or the G3 for professional/traditional SLR look and feel.

2. Uses a proprietary battery. To be honest, I'd rather use AA Ni-MH batteries. But with the Canon system, you probably get bettery power management since they can monitor the battery state better than if it is generic rechargables. In the end it's probably a wash. Buy a second battery.

Buy Canon PowerShot S50 5MP Digital Camera w/ 3x Optical Zoom Now

INTRO:

I've had this camera now for 2 weeks and absolutely love it. I already have a Sony F707, and was looking for a camera to take around that still had the 5 mp output, but a smaller form factor. When it came down to it, it was either this camera or the Olympus C50Z and I'm glad I decided on the S50. You just can't beat the Canon for features and design. Plus, the C50Z supposidly doesn't have a mic for video.

PROS:

From what the reviews have said, this is just a scaled down version of the Canon G3, but with 5 mp output vs. 4 with the G3.

It's got a very solid construction and I love the brushed metallic look of the body. It's not quite pocket sized I tried lugging it around in my pocket for a day...a little bulky for that, but i'd say it's a great compromise for those that want more features than what the digital Elph series offers.

Speaking of which, it's got a great bundle of features. Images are bright and very real to life. From what I can tell, it's very similar in general shooting modes as my Sony. I leave the camera glued to Program AE, as I seem to get the best quality and still have the ability to adjust the different modes on the camera. The continuous shooting mode is excellent and the intervalometer (time lapse photo shooting) is definitely a nice new feature. Further the stich assist and video modes with sound make it a better buy over the C50Z.

Also, the camera is very fast from taking it out of the bag to turning it on, it's a little less than 4 seconds and it's ready to shoot.

Further, the camera uses non-memory lithium ion I have yet to drain the battery fully from a days worth of shooting. I almost never turn off the view finder and the battery's held up like a champ. It also uses standard compact flash, which I picked up at Amazon (256mb Viking) [at a good price]after rebates. Just can't beat that...

COULD IMPROVE ON:

The only thing with the construction that got me a little concered was the slide door for the lens. If you moved it a certain way, it can move up and down. Still, the overall construction is very solid.

The macro is pretty average. It says in the guide that you can get as close as 5 cm or thereabouts, but the closest I could get in focus was about 3 inches. I guess it's the size of the optics.

Also, why only the black? I really like the brushed stainless look of the S45, but you can't get that flavor with the S50. From what I've heard, it's only available in Europe. I guess it's a marketing thing, but still... Don't get me wrong, I like the black, but it'd be nice to have the choice and black tends to show dust quite easily.

And while I like that it uses standard compact flash, I've noticed it's a little slower in tranfers and reading than Sony Memory stick.

Anyway, these are negligible issues and overall, Canon has really outdone themselves again.

Read Best Reviews of Canon PowerShot S50 5MP Digital Camera w/ 3x Optical Zoom Here

Pros: Compact size, 5 megapixel resolution, ease of use, lots of creative photography options, Solid all metal compact body, Quality Canon lens, quality, enlargeable images, sturdy, macro capability.

Cons: No provision for add-on lenses or filters, Expensive, 5MP is probably overkill for most users, Underwater housing does not allow full control, not as sharp as most 4 MP cameras, 4-way Navigation Button & Proprietary Battery, Some photos had red eye, doesn't come with carrying case.

Summary: This compact Canon digital camera really impressed me in the week I've had mine so far. I've been looking and playing with the Sony DSC-P9 for some time but took a chance with the S50 sight unseen, with a few recommendations, and my expectations have been well exceded. Excellent image quality and easy to learn interface with ample effect, memory, and capture options are not compromised by the camera's size (slightly chunkier than the Sony, but still slips into a pocket easily). Crisp and bright image replay on the rear color LCD monitor. Easy downloads to PC with USB and unimposing Canon software, and fairly quick battery recharge too. This is a really great compact digital camera for those looking for great images in different conditions without a bulky, intrusive large body reflex. The movie capture is better than on previous Canon models, though still slightly choppy at 12 frames per second (not that making movies is your first choice in features for selecting pocket cameras). Nonetheless, after looking around I believe this is the best deal for quality/function/money versus size in the compact digital camera market.A+

Want Canon PowerShot S50 5MP Digital Camera w/ 3x Optical Zoom Discount?

The Canon PowerShot S50 is a terrific small digital camera. It packs in an amazing array of features, starting with the generous maximum 5 megapixel image size (you can make them smaller to conserve space on the CompactFlash card). Several modes are available to you such as Sports (high shutter-speed and high resolution shots), Portrait, Night, etc. You can put it in complete Idiot Mode (okay, Automatic mode) and let it select your shutter speed and aperture, or you can pick one or the other and let the camera pick the missing one, or you can go full into Manual mode and pick both. There's even a Movie mode, complete with sound!

This small camera fits in a purse easily (okay, not a small purse), and doesn't get in the way if you're shouldering it in a case (not included). That means the optical zoom is limited to 3x. And unfortuately, the S50, like all the PowerShot S family, starts out at 11mm, which is a very wide-angle value. Even at 3X you will only come in to 55mm, often not as close as you'd expect. There is a digital zoom, but so what? Crop your picture in software later rather than play with that silly feature. But getting back to the range, I found it insufficient for shooting

across a large (but crowded) room. If you work closer in this won't be a problem.

I agree the sliding door that covers the lens (and turns on the camera) seems flimsy. That's because it can cause problems. My 3YO niece got ahold of mine and ripped the door off. I was able to reattach it but now it's like a loose tooth, just waiting to fall off again. Even under warranty, my choice was to send it back to Canon for 12 weeks or live with it. I couldn't live without the camera, so I kept it, loose sliding door and all. I've just learned not to lend it to people who can't baby it; a good push and that door is off the camera again.

Then I bought a Canon Digital Rebel, which is an even better camera, but not the same type as the S50 at all. The latter can fit into a generous shirt pocket; the Digital Rebel is a big ol' digital SLR (single-lens reflex camera, a through-the-lens viewfinder, typically with interchangeable lenses).

One of the S50's limitations is a slow shutter response. I can't tell you how many shots I've missed using it; I frame it lovingly, I see the perfect moment, I shoot... but no score. The people have moved on, the sun has set, the universe suffers heat-death, and finally the shutter clicks. If you want a fast shutter then you must have a digital SLR, as almost all the compact-style digital cameras such as this one have the delayed shutter issue. Another note of annoyance on the PowerShot S family: they come with a wrist strap but no shoulder strap. I don't know what use a wrist strip is for a camera; if I'm not using it then I want my hands free. I bought a generic shoulder strap but it wasn't a great fit. At least Canon should offer one as an extra-cost accessory.

I still give this camera 4 stars for putting so many features in such a small package. The pictures are reasonably good, and at this size you can crop plenty out and still print good 4x6 inch images. The PowerShot S50 comes with software, but you'll probably want to buy your own image editing package. The one provided is fairly limited. Useful software includes PhotoStitch, which allows you to make your own panaramic style images from a series of linked shots. The included CompactFlash card is also too small for typical use, so plan on buying a bigger card.

Datacolor Spyder4Express S4X100 Display Calibration Device

Device itself does what it says very nicely colors become accurate, shadows now are visible and everything is way better than it was before, but, there's one serious drawback: As a general customer, when I bought this thing, I'd like to calibrate ALL monitors I have around. Software won't allow. Once installed and activated on one computer, when you'll activate it on another one, it will stop functioning on the 1st one. And color calibration is done in such way, that without bundled software it does not works. Imagine, you bought a vacuum cleaner, that can be only used in one room. Here we have the same situation!

UPDATE: The device software also has problems with intel hd graphics drivers. If you have any settings modified in 3d or whatsoever, via the built in intel hd graphics manager, spyder color calibration resets, so you can't have calibrated display. To fix this, you have to remove igfxpers.exe from startup. So, you getting your color calibration working, but lose access to your video card setting! (This is widely known problem, wonder why nobody else complained about it before here).

If you want to know what calibrating your monitor will do for you, consider this: When you go into a store like Best Buy and compare the same image on dozens of television sets, you see that they all look different some are too red, some too green, some brighter, some darker. Which one is correctly displaying the original TV signal? The same problem occurs for photographic images on a computer monitor. If you display the same image on different monitors, they will all look different. Which monitor is displaying the image correctly? With a calibrated monitor, you know that your image is being displayed correctly because the calibration process neutralizes any color cast that the monitor might have and adjusts for correct brightness.

I am a commercial photographer and have been using the professional versions of the Spyder for years in my office. My wife has been struggling to get predictable color prints on our home printer as well as when ordering books and prints online. I bought the Spyder4Express with the hope that it would be easy enough for a complete novice to use. It is! The software installed quickly, and the calibration process is completely menu-driven so that it's simple to recalibrate when needed. We have our Windows desktop set to a neutral gray, and when turning the calibration on and off, it's immediately clear how well the Spyder calibration neutralizes the color of the monitor. With the calibrated monitor, we can now see in advance how our images will look when printed or in books we order online. No longer do we need say to ourselves, "make the image on the screen a little more red than we like, and a little darker than we like because then it will print correctly." Instead, it's now "what you see is what you get." Our prints and online books match what we see on the computer screen.

This is a great little product at a great price.

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Don't buy this if you have more than 1 machine you want to use it on. You can't for instance calibrate your laptop and your desktop with this because the license only works with 1 computer.

Read Best Reviews of Datacolor Spyder4Express S4X100 Display Calibration Device Here

Great product and more accurate then the Spyder3. Very important to use the latest driver for Windows v4.5.4 on Colorvision website or a pink color hue shift will be noticed at the end of the calibration. The calibration process will not proceed with all the menu choices needed to make a good profile if you use the default, older version software on the Spyder boxed CD. Otherwise, a good device that just got better.

Want Datacolor Spyder4Express S4X100 Display Calibration Device Discount?

My friend convinced me to buy this Datacolor Spyder 4 Express after talking about his experience with their products. All I wanted was a way to calibrate my monitor without having to go through a long process with changing settings and all that. This thing does all the adjustments and changes automatically no user settings to fool with or modify. I just installed the software and registered the product. Then with just a few clicks the calibration started! It's so simple and easy. Then at the end of the process, it provides you with a graph that shows how accurate your monitor is compared to RGB color standards.

It's easy to use and a great value for $119. Highly recommended!

Save 4% Off

Panasonic DMC-G5KBODY 16MP SLR Camera with 3-Inch LCD - Body Only (Black)

To start with I have both the Panasonic GF5 and the G5 and I also shoot Nikon digital cameras. I've been very happy with the Panasonic G5 and M43 system. Many of the little things that bothered me with the GF5 like AF accuracy, AF hunting when recording videos, limited number of customizable function buttons, zoom lens blocking flash coverage at wide angle focal lengths, and no 1080p/60fps videos are resolved with the G5. Plus the G5 is 16MP vs the GF5 only being 12MP. The G5 also has features which my much more expensive Nikon doesn't have like an articulating touch screen and the ability to shoot 1080p/60fps videos.

What I love about the G5:

1. The G5 has a nice balance of buttons and customization which meets the needs of both novices and those wanting more control of their camera. For people purchasing a DSLR/DSLM camera for the time it probably won't feel as overwhelming as some DSLR's would. While it doesn't have the number of buttons as my Nikon DSLR with the use of the "Q Menu" I can get to more of what I want quicker than with my DSLR. The "Q Menu" allows you to create your personalized mini menu for quick access for those settings you adjust the most. In addition there are function buttons on the camera and touch screen which can be customized for the features you use all the time.

2. The articulating screen was one of the main selling points for me when purchasing the G5. The articulating screen is great when photographing with the camera above your head and near to the ground. I actually use it almost all the time when I photograph. You are steadier when you shoot with your hands and camera at your chest versus held up to your eye. If you like shooting candids or documentary of people you can get better shots if the camera is at your chest or waist level. As soon as your camera is at your eye and pointed at a person, that person starts acting different.

3. The articulating screen being a touch screen was another big selling point for me. The combination of the touch screen and pin point or single focus area creates a powerful tool for any photographer. I only shoot single focus area on my DSLR's. Unlike my Nikon DSLR which I have to hold a button down and use the pad on the back of the camera to scroll through the AF area points, with the G5 all I do is touch the area, any area except the very edge, on the screen I want the camera to focus on. Person moves from the right to the left of the frame, I touch their face, and hit the shutter button...that quick and simple. It is worth noting that the touch screen isn't as sensitive as a smart phone touch screen but it seems better than the GF5 screen.

4. I found that the GF5 when shooting in the 23 AF area where the camera selects the AF point would commonly focus on the background instead the person in the foreground who was in the center of the frame and filling up a majority of the frame. The G5 doesn't have that issue. The AF with the G5 is speedy and silent which is great for photography but a must have when shooting videos. It's focus speed is as fast as much more expensive prosumer DSLR cameras. The only issue I've run into is that when shooting sequential frames in continuous AF the AF doesn't perform as accurately as my Nikon DSLR.

5. The 1080p/60fps videos from the G5 are nothing short of beautiful. The 60fps produces very smooth looking videos. The 1080 resolution is very sharp and crisp looking, better than any other P&S, ILC, or DSLR I've had. The only other camera I have that shoots 60fps is the Sony HX20V. The G5 having a much larger sensor than the Sony HX20V produces a much shallower depth of field for beautiful videos. I actually like the depth of field with the G5 better than videos from APS-C cameras. The depth of field is shallow but a little greater than those from APS-C sensors. I find it to be a perfect blend for everyday videos. The AF while shooting videos is excellent also. Unlike my Nikon DSLR there is no focus hunting when shooting videos with the G5 and because the AF is silent I also don't hear the lens focusing. My GF5 even does some focus hunting.

6. The digital viewfinder is actually usable with the G5. There have been considerable improvements in digital viewfinder resolution, color, and contrast in the last few years. I remember playing around with one of Sony's first DSLM cameras a few years ago which had a digital viewfinder and thinking to myself there is no way I could shoot with this camera because of the digital viewfinder.

7. The G5 has an electronic shutter, E Shutter, feature to prevent shutter shock. Shutter shock occurs when the slapping of the shutter causes the sensor to vibrate when the picture is taken, some believe it can impact the OIS also, which results in a soft or slightly blurry image. It seems to primarily occur at shutter speeds of 1/60-1/250. When I heard about shutter shock and the E Shutter feature I was bit skeptical. I did a test shooting 100 frames with the E Shutter on and 100 with the E shutter off at shutter speeds of 1/60-1/320. For 50 of the frames with the E Shutter on and 50 with the E Shutter off, I used image stabilization. The other 50 for each I turned the stabilization off. People have tested the E Shutter photographing a chart while the camera was on a tripod (copy stand work), I wanted to see if there was a noticeable difference in real life photo situations. The images shot were of still life and I was hand holding the camera. When I used a telephoto focal length without stabilization I made sure my shutter speed was on the higher end of the range. The electronic shutter did give better results! I had no incidences of soft or blurry images with the E Shutter on and stabilization off. With stabilization and E Shutter on I had 2 soft or blurry images. With stabilization and E Shutter off, I had 4 soft or blurry images. The worst results came from stabilization on and E Shutter off in which I had 6 soft or blurry images. After the test I started photographing regularly with E Shutter on and have noticed more consistent, better results. Before doing the test I wasn't using E Shutter and was getting some mysteriously soft, blurry images. The downside of E Shutter is that it can't be used with the flash or ISOs greater than 1600. There can also be bending or distortion of shapes which are moving in the frame. I have witnessed the distortion once when taking a picture of someone moving in the frame while the picture was taken.

8. The compactness of the G5 is a nice selling feature. While the G5 isn't as small or pocketable like the GF5 it is significantly smaller and lighter than any Nikon DSLR I've owned. It is much easier to carry around the G5 with a couple extra lenses than my Nikon with a couple extra lenses. Some people may equate the compactness and lightness of weight as being cheap or like a toy camera but I think they are missing one of the advantages of the camera and M43 system in general.

What I don't like about the G5 kit:

1. The biggest down side of the camera outfit is the 14-42mm kit lens. The kit lens is kind of what it is, an inexpensive lens with a plastic mount, plastic body, and sticky zoom. It takes decent enough pictures but the corners and edges are pretty soft, at times even when stopped down to f/8. I do have a full review of the kit lens for anyone interested.

2. With the lowest ISO being 160 and a top shutter speed of 1/4000, on a sunny day the widest open your lens can be is f/2.8 or more commonly f/3.5. This really limits your ability to create images with a very shallow depth of field when using fast lenses.

3. If you go back and forth between the screen and viewfinder the eye sensor on the camera is nice to have. It is designed to sense when your eye goes to the viewfinder. It then turn the display off and viewfinder on therefore saving battery life. Even with the eye sensor sensitivity adjusted to low it is WAY too sensitive. If a shadow passes over the eye sensor the display turns off and viewfinder turns on. Even on a cloudy day if my hand passes over the sensor, 3" inches from the camera, the display turns off.

If you are already in the M43 system this is a great camera to add to your system or upgrade to. If you are looking at getting into a DSLR or DSLM camera system the decision to purchase this over other cameras similarly priced is a little more difficult decision to make. The G5 is a little more compact than an introductory DSLR. It is roughly a centimeter shorter in each dimension and weighs about 25% less than Nikon's D3200. The G5 has an articulating touch screen vs the D3200 which doesn't. The G5 shoots 1080p/60fps videos whereas the D3200 shoots 1080p/30fps. The G5 also costs $100 less than the D3200. The D3200 on the other hand has a larger sensor that performs better in low light. The D3200 has a better kit lens. The D3200 is 24MP vs the G5 which is 16MP. While M43 cameras have the best variety of lenses of any mirrorless system it still can't compete with the selection you have with Nikon or Canon. In the end it depends on which of those features are the most important to you as a buyer.

I have a few friends with DSLR and micro-4/3 cameras and I was told to look at micro-4/3 due to it's lower cost of entry and portability. In the short term I wanted a new camera to take on my honeymoon, but my long term goal was to improve my photography skills beyond a compact point and shoot.

After much research I decided between the Olympus OM-D E-M5 and Panasonic DMC-G5KK. While I feel the Olympus is a better camera on paper, I didn't feel the cost differential was justified in my case. Micro-4/3 is still a relatively new platform, and I think the cameras will improve quite a bit in the next couple of years. Perhaps in that time I'll upgrade to a camera with a more rugged body and in body stabilization. FWIW, I purchased the DMC-G5 ($699), which included the 14-42mm zoom lens, along with the Lumix 20mm f/1.7 pancake lens ($332).

The combo is low profile and lightweight due to the pancake lens. I purchased the Crumpler "4 million dollar home" camera bag, which comfortably fits the G5, 20mm pancake, 14-42 mm kit lens, spare battery, charger, snackbar, and hand cleanser (a nice to have on vacation). I highly recommend this to anyone look at the G5 or other similarly sized micro-4/3s.

The 20mm pancake shoots amazing pictures with the G5. Landscapes and interiors look great, but portraits are amazing! I was overall quite impressed with photos I took on my vacation, the majority of which I used intelligent auto since I didn't have the time to learn about the camera. I would say I took 90% of my photos using the pancake since it was more convenient and much faster. I only used the zoom lens when I couldn't zoom with my feet.

My favorite things about the camera thus far:

1) Autofocus speed (combined w/ the 20mm)

2) Ergonomics and weight

3) HD video w/ autofocus

4) Large articulating touchscreen w/ AF tracking (touch screen and it will focus and track the subject!)

5) Depth of focus adjustment/box

6) RAW photos (works with Lightroom)

Things I dislike:

1) EVF sensor: even at the low sensitivity setting, my finger occasionally disables the LCD. I wish they put the sensor at the top of the EVF or something

2) Panasonic software: it's not well designed. You're better off buying Adobe Lightroom to handle the importing and post-processing.

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I ordered my G5 after having seen nice early reports from a few online testers. I bought it within the first few days of it's release. I had considered buying the E-M5, but I had a few reservations about the way the LCD articulated and the higher price. I have a preference for the LCD articulation mechanics used on the G5.

I was pleasantly surprised by the images I captured at a high school reunion the day I received the camera. I immediately noticed an improvement over my previous Olympus Pen models in dynamic range. The high ISO noise levels were simply impressive compared to the Pens. I learned quickly how to use the custom white balance setting and my out of camera jpeg files have consistently accurate color rendition. The images are nice and sharp and will likely print well at print sizes larger than 16"x20".

I believe this camera is an excellent option for those considering the E-M5 based not on a direct personal comparison but from what I seen published at many sites online.

I recommend the G5 highly.

Panasonic DMC-G5KBODY 16MP SLR Camera with 3-Inch LCD Body Only (Black)

Dan

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I was a 35mm film Minolta owner for a long time, then Nikon (FM/FE), then more recently D50/D40/D60. I've had Panasonic FZ28/35 and found the sensor size and quality wanting. I looked at the Sony Alpha but found the a37 lacking a few things I wanted and the A57 too large/heavy. Earlier this year I had a Nikon D5100. Great camera. But I was looking for something smaller and lighter. The M 4/3 (MFT) platform is a clear winner. So much so that I no longer own the D5100. And it feels great to use the DMC-G5. I'm excited about shooting again!

Technically, the sensor on the DMC-G5 is a very strong performer. The UI gives you hints when you need them (like a flashing icon to push in and rotate the control wheel when you have overridden the standard exposure (EV) controls). The focus is among the fastest of any camera I've ever used. I really like the level indicators that appear in the viewfinder to let you know you are square to horizontal or vertical.

Overall the camera feels great in the hands and it is very light and yet not too small. So far I don't feel like there is any feature that I would use that is missing. I did sell the 14-42mm kit lens and put on an older Panasonic 14-45mm lens and the results are very solid.

The EVF is adequate. I would not use a MFT camera that did not have a viewfinder. LCDs are still hopeless in strong sunlight. I've found the EVF in this camera so good that most of the time I'm shooting with LCD folded in and turned off. It's that good. (And means I get more shots on one battery charge. And getting a second battery is recommended for this any any camera with an EVF.)

The ONLY thing that bugs me about this camera, and it's a nit, is the operation of the power switch. It's on the right of the control dial and it's the same place thus far on all the Lumix MFT. I would rather have this been a reactive switch where when you push it forward it changes the current power setting (push forward to turn on, push forward again to turn off). The absolute positioning seems strange but that's just to me. I've found myself pushing it forward when I want to turn the camera off. It's certainly not going to take away from the rest of the performance of the camera. (I think because my first digital camera as a Sony DSC-S75 who's power switch worked that way that's why I'm doing it on this camera.)

In the past a primary selling point for cameras, for those who cared about the future and building up a personal kit, was that you were buying into a system. This is still true. But now the system is more like a wider MFT 'system' which crosses manufactures and equipment both new and old. The fact that you can use Panasonic and Olympus lens AND many legacy lens with adapters is an astounding eye opener. Why not, like in the PC market, have uniform standards with many if not all interchangeable parts? Let the camera makers compete on features that are exchangeable. Thus far the other major camera makers have balked at joining the MFT party and they are missing out. Check The Online Photographer article entitled 'Micro 4/3 is the Big Kahuna' for some more perspectives. You should also be visiting 43rumors and sansmirror to be informed in MFT.

To me this is a great camera for the enthusiast who is looking for a lightweight highly versatile camera for a wide range of uses and who wants to spend less than $600-700. (DXOMark puts this camera ahead of DMC-G3 and DMC-GH2 in sensor measurements in all marks except for effective low light ISO which is strange because it's pretty good in low light.)

If I was going to buy up the chain in the MFT systems then either the OM-D E-M5 or DMC-GH3 would be the next steps up. (And keep the DMC-G5 as a second body.)

Update: 11-MAR-2013 I have found a bug that the firmware needs fixing for. I discovered yesterday that if you switch back to review mode from standard still shooting mode like P or C2, it may not always make it back into review mode. It can appear that you are still in the standard view mode (through the lens). I was pressing review like four or five times and it would not switch over. Then I realized that if after you hit review, and nothing seems to have happened, if you click the command dial to the left or right, it will actually become unstuck from the TTL view and start showing you photos you have taken, Viola, you are in review mode. If anyone else has found this please comment.

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I have not been on board with these compact system, MIL, DSLM, or whatever acronym Amazon is using to describe the mirrorless cameras these days...until now! While the concept of having small, compact, lenses has been quite appealing to me (who doesn't want a 400mm equivalent lens smaller than a coffee mug!), the cameras themselves just never felt "right" in my hands. I have above average size hands, so the Panasonic GF, Sony NEX, and Nikon 1 systems always felt like point & shoot cameras and didn't give me a well balanced feel when framing shots. The G5 has a nice grip to go along with all those great lenses! It seems Panasonic has realized there are still some of us who like to use a viewfinder because the 1.4M dot Electronic viewfinder is INCREDIBLE. And while I tend to be a bit more of a traditionalist when it comes to taking photos, the 3" articulating LCD is fun to use when I'm shooting HD video of my 2 year old daughter. I'm quite impressed with photos I'm getting out of this camera, even with the kit lens. If you have been waiting to enter the mirrorless world, wait no longer. This is a terrific all-around camera and now that I'm in the Micro 4/3 world, it's time to start saving for those lenses!! My wife will be happy that I'm not using her allotted TSA carry-on limit to pack my lenses on our next trip. I'll be able to fit a whole system of lenses in her purse next time!

Kanex iAdapt HDMI

I bought this to hook up my Macbook Pro to a 46" LCD TV we purchased. I read the reviews and figured I would give it a try. When it arrived, I hooked it up straight to my Mac, and got only a blue screen. I tinkered around for a while and got frustrated. I watched a couple you tube videos, and followed the steps...but no dice. I ended up switching my hdmi cable, and noticed that it was a cable issue, not the adapter. I had tried using an really old hdmi cable that came with my Direct TV box that I never used. Apparently it is not capable of the signal type being sent, and instead just showed a blue screen. With the new cable the picture is perfect, and it is an extremely inexpensive way to hook your Mac up to a TV for web browsing or a slide show. I would have bought a while ago if I would have known!

Do the job, works fine, great picture and video exporting to my Sanyo projector. Crisp accurate colors, fast video, all that I expected for my 17 inch Macbookpro.

Don't lock like original apple accessory pure white, but it run very well and with fantastic quality results, clear, vibrant images with out compromise. No degradation, no loss quality and performance. This is the perfect accessory. I love it and buy APG again and again...

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I love sharing pictures/videos with my family, so it is nice when I go home to my parents house to be able to put up the screen on their flat panel TV so I can share pictures, video, watch netflix, or youtube random stuff during parties. I also have an hdmi cable in my room that goes is wired around the room to the side of my bed so i can connect my tv to my flat panel on the wall and use it for netfli x and such. All that being said, this adapter works perfectly for all of that....for about 5 months. I'm on my 2nd of these very same adapters and all of them have lasted me from 4months-11months, but they all start getting the same problem: begin getting touchy with the connection, if you bump it the audio will drop out, or it will just stop recognizing your tv altogether. This would be an amazing product at a great price but since I am in a situation where I am thinking about buying my 3rd adapter in 2 years I may have to reconsider my choice.

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I had little green pixels/static all over the place when I was going in 1080p from my 13" MacBook Pro. Got a new adapter that also does audio and was smaller, and that fixed the issue. Would never, ever, ever buy again.

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This is the third adapter like this that we've tried. We got the previous two from a different company, and both went bad within a couple weeks. So far, this one seems to be holding up great. Only time will tell I suppose! :-)

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CowboyStudio 1000W Continuous Video Lighting Kit with Stand, Bulbs, and Softbox

These Lights seems flimsy when you are setting them up but they are not. It takes about 15 min to set them up and the instructions that come with these lights are pretty good. Now, these are not alien bees but they get the job done. If you are on a budget these are a must buy. Especially for home studios.

Check out the image here:Hope I helped

Ok, I bought this after reading all the reviews good and bad. For the price this product is great. It is top quality? No. Is it the best soft box you can buy? No. But for the price it is a really good value. The stands are actually rather sturdy, and it does exactly what it is supposed to do. I cannot afford to drop hundreds or thousands on quality lighting equipment for my hobby. I like to spend a bit more on cameras and lenses, not lights right now. But this soft box represents a good value and is 100 times better than the desk lamps I was using. I got this one just to try it out and now that I did I wish I had gone for one of those 3 light set ups. The light it puts out is good bright and soft. It was not easy to put together, but it was not horible either. my advice is that if your soft box seems akward uneven or distorted make sure you have the little poles seated deep in the base. It does not seem very portable, so taking it up and down would be a drag, but that is not my application currently, I am going to just use it at my house and leave it together. I watched the video online and set it up in about 10 to 15 min. I say buy with confidence as long as you know what you are getting... this light set up is cheap and effective. just treat it with care and it will last a long, long time.

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If you have $80 to spend and need a continuous light source with a soft box and a stand, this is your only option. Let's be honest though, the soft box and light are of marginal quality and will not stand up over the long term, but as I said, if you have $80 this is it. One of the light bulbs arrived as non-functional and my purchase was discounted because of that.

The other issue I've seen is that the color temperature of the lights is not true daylight, but if you shoot in RAW, you can fix that.

Would I purchase again? Probably not, but like many of you reading this, I was on a budget so this is what I have for now.

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I love this softbox and highly reccommend it to photographers or youtube people like me. It gives more than enough lighting. I don't even have to turn on all the lights and the price you can't beat!

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Recently started shooting videos of family and friends. I did not have any light other than what is in my house and was looking for an expensive set up for additional light. This light is just what I needed. The set up was pretty simple considering I have never put together a light box before. The seller provided me with online instructions on how to assemble and also included a video showing a guy putting this light box together. I am very pleased with my purchase.

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JVC BN-VF707U 1.5 Hour Data Camcorder Battery for GR Models

Battery is same as wat shipped with original camera. Battery delivers slightly less than 90 mins...tapes are 60. A second battery is almost a necessity for a good days shooting. Quality and reliability are excellent. Have put the original through sme hard use without any drop off in storage capacity

I purchased this battery so I would have a spare one during a recent trip to Disney World. Changing batteries was easy, and they are small enough to keep in your bag until needed. 3 hours of battery time (for the original and spare combined) was enough for most days. One day I forgot to recharge them, but that was my fault.

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This battery works great! I have learned to remove the battery when not using my camera and the battery life lasts a lot longer!!!

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I was very diappointed with this item. I bought this item because the last battery on our camera lasted for about 5 min on a full charge, and we needed one for our daughter's dance recital. This "new" one lasted about 20 min. If someone can tell me that I didn't charge it correctly or something I would greatly appreciate it, but I don't think I did anything wrong

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This is a great product for your digital camcorder product back up and especially a great price.

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