Showing posts with label summer baby touch monitor. Show all posts
Showing posts with label summer baby touch monitor. Show all posts

Friday, October 3, 2014

Digital Binocular Camera - Black (VIV-CV-1225V)

Digital Binocular Camera - Blackthe technology was lacking, the digital zoom at 5 megapixels was not good, the glasses view was always better than the pictures, also the eyepeices would not spread far enough to be used as binoculars, tried them on 6 adults......returned for refund

I ordered these for a trip I was going on. Diving with Great Whites in Mexico... On the way there from San Diego, there would be a lot to see. Needed binoculars... Don't make the same mistake. Absolutely terrible. Here are the reasons not to purchase these:

Ease of use with so little to configure, should have been quick and painless not the case

Battery life is very short A little over an hour

Bundled software is poorly designed

Digital images no where near as sharp (the binocular lense is not the lens that takes the pictures/video)

Ultimately, I got what I paid for. Next time, I will invest in a product that works as advertised, which means that the investment will be significantly higher.

If you're looking for something simple and have low expectations, by all means, order Vivitar Binoculars... Otherwise be prepared to spend a lot more or better yet, just buy binoculars without a camera...

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For the money it's just OK. The cd rom that came with it unbelievably had the WRONG manual imbedded in it. I am still trying to get a manual so that I can decipher the mediocre menus. Image quality is about what you would expect from a cellphone. Also you do not get an image of what you are seeing in the binocular. It looks to me like it is about 50% or even less of the magnification that you get with the binocular view. Technically it may be correct but from the standpoint of an average user the difference in the field of view is quite striking.

If you are very careful to hold still you can get an OK image. I keep playing with it so I guess the compromises are reasonable.

Read Best Reviews of Digital Binocular Camera - Black (VIV-CV-1225V) Here

I really had a hard time with this item because all the reviews on digital binoculars were bad. This was a Father's Day gift for a bird watcher and thought it would be nice but was leary. We got this one because it was MAC compatible over others that were just Windows only. Since it was a gift I haven't used it but the comments I got were, it is lightweight, would fit in your pocket and be easy to carry anywhere. I saw pictures from this digital binocular and they were very clear and crisp. So far I believe it is a hit.

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The binocular/camera works fine however, the software that came with it (Vivitar Experience Image Manager) does not work.

I tried to install the software that came with the product (it didn't install), I was given a link to install and that didn't work.

They sent me another disc and that didn't install the software either. 3 times and I'm thinking of returning the binoculars if they can't fix the problem.

I have a new Dell computer with Windows 7 which the software says is compatible with the software.

Sunday, September 28, 2014

Canon EOS Rebel T4i Digital SLR Camera Body & EF-S 18-55mm IS II Lens with 55-250mm IS Lens + 3

Canon EOS Rebel T4i Digital SLR Camera Body & EF-S 18-55mm IS II Lens with 55-250mm IS Lens + 32GB Card + Tripod + Battery + Backpack + Filters + Remote + Telephoto & Wide-Angle Lenses + Accessory KitGreat Price for a great product!!! Everything works great, fast shipping. you really can't beat the price for this bundle! Bought the Canon t4i for video, love being able to record for 30min and shots look great!

Wonderful camera! Pictures are clear, focused, and brilliant. The touch screen is amazing to use. The bundled product I purchased through Amazon was received days ahead of the scheduled date of arrival. No damage and all items were accounted for. If you are looking for a great camera that will give you quality and simple to use, I would highly recommend this camera! 'Hope this helps you as the many reviews I've read assisted me.

Buy Canon EOS Rebel T4i Digital SLR Camera Body & EF-S 18-55mm IS II Lens with 55-250mm IS Lens + 3 Now

This is by far the best deal around. I have been looking for an entry level SLR for awhile and finally settled on the T4i. I ordered my camera around Christmas and thought that there would be more of a delay in shipping. I was pleseantly surprise when an Amazon box was on my front door step the day after Christmas. I priced out the T4i at Best Buy, National Camera, and Costco. The body and two main lenses (18-55 and 55-250) would have been over $900 dollars alone. So, it is nice to have the extras to boot!

Read Best Reviews of Canon EOS Rebel T4i Digital SLR Camera Body & EF-S 18-55mm IS II Lens with 55-250mm IS Lens + 3 Here

I have been researching this item for months at a time, and after all my research this was the best deal. You can't say no to it, there are some stuff you can probably do without, but with the price its a steal!! I received it a lot earlier then I anticipated, I was like a little kid in the candy store. I am now taking courses to learn how to use it to the fullest. I can't wait to snap away!

Want Canon EOS Rebel T4i Digital SLR Camera Body & EF-S 18-55mm IS II Lens with 55-250mm IS Lens + 3 Discount?

I am still learning about my new T4i. I used it principally for video of basketball games so far and have not taken many stills. The video quality is great! The ~1 hour video files are huge! I am contemplating the book in the "Dummies" series to learn more.

I get positive comments on it wherever I go.

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Thursday, August 14, 2014

StarTech.com MDP2DPMM10 10-Feet Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Adapter Cable - M/M

StarTech.com MDP2DPMM10 10-Feet Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Adapter Cable - M/MCable is not VESA compliant. Hence, you will have issues with waking up your connected display when resuming your computer from a soft (screen only off) or hard (low power state) sleep. Pin 20 is connected. Hence, both the display and computer try to provide 3.3V on pin 20. This causes link negotiation issues, which leads to the aforementioned inability to "wake" the connected display. Tested on 2 different displays and 2 different computers with mini display ports, for a total of 4 configurations that all showed that the cable is at fault.

I tried many adapters to achieve the best resolution that my new Dell 30-inch monitor offered. Took many days and this was the ONLY adapter that worked.

While I was able to get the normal and very good resolution of HDMI adapter/cords (1900) and okay but higher resolution with VGA (2048 x 1280), this ten buck cord did the trick. It caused a great deal of flickering of the screen until I enabled MIRRORING and made sure that Overscan was off. At first the cord and the monitor and my laptop were, shall we say, in negotiations on what resolution would be provided. Staying in the system preferences, display boxes, clicking and un-clicking mirroring, I was able to get the maximum resolution of the monitor which is 2540 x1600. I tried the Apple Minidisplay port to dual-link display port adapter and that was a waste of time and it will be returned shortly. The resolution it gave was around 1600x but it looked horrible, made the monitor appear as one of the original and huge CRT monitors from the 80s. I highly recommend this cord, nice gold plated connections and I will likely buy another.

Buy StarTech.com MDP2DPMM10 10-Feet Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Adapter Cable - M/M Now

I bought this cable to use with my new 13" MacBook Pro, connecting with a new Dell 30 inch monitor, U3011. The monitor kept falling into sleep mode and I had continual issues, which I thought were a compatibility problem between my new Macbook Pro and the monitor. I then found this mini display port adapter cable from another manufacturer and since installing it I have had zero issues in regards to performance and compatibility between my MacBook Pro and my new Dell monitor. This Star Tech cable has some serious compatibility and intermittent problems when being used with the new MacBook Pro connecting to Dell monitor U3011.

I purchased my replacement cable from circuit assembly and I am now running 100% error-free.

Read Best Reviews of StarTech.com MDP2DPMM10 10-Feet Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Adapter Cable - M/M Here

Cable worked out of the box, simply and with no drama. I use it to connect an incredible Microcenter Auria WQHD (2560x1440) resolution $400 monitor to my 2012 iMac 27", using the displayport/thunderbolt port on back of iMac. The cable is a great value and worked w/o any problems. Could not be more happier with value and performance.

Want StarTech.com MDP2DPMM10 10-Feet Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Adapter Cable - M/M Discount?

Well, what else can you really say for a review of a cable? The price is right and it functions perfectly.

My motivation for writing a review is for a niche group of consumers who may which to know this tidbit of information -I'm using this to connect my work laptop, a PC, to my home display -a 27" Apple iMac. The iMac doubles as an external display with an HDPC-compliant source, and I can confirm that this cable works just fine in this configuration for both video and audio.

Recommended without reservations!

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Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Canon EOS 5D MARK II + Canon EF 28-135mm Lens + Canon EF 75-300mm UltraSonic Lens + Canon 50mm Lens

Canon EOS 5D MARK II + Canon EF 28-135mm Lens + Canon EF 75-300mm UltraSonic Lens + Canon 50mm Lens +500mm Preset Lens + 650-1300mm Lens + .40x Fisheye Lens + 2x Telephoto Lens + 3 Year Celltime Warranty Repair ContractI would hesitate to purchase a package that includes a Canon EF-S 75-300mm Zoom Lens in a package for a camera that will not accept EF-S lenses.

If you don't want to became a joke, keep away from this package. this package is like put the chicken wings into a jet body.

Really doubting anyone will buy it. If want to buy it, that means you need a book to study first.

The full frame camera like 5D mark II/III is not ready for you yet.

Buy Canon EOS 5D MARK II + Canon EF 28-135mm Lens + Canon EF 75-300mm UltraSonic Lens + Canon 50mm Lens Now

This is a complete ripoff. The EF-S lenses that are included with this package will not work with this model of camera!

Read Best Reviews of Canon EOS 5D MARK II + Canon EF 28-135mm Lens + Canon EF 75-300mm UltraSonic Lens + Canon 50mm Lens Here

The camera box was tampered with so I wasn't comfortable with using the camera with my clients. I own a photography studio. I was under the impression after reading the details on the product that all I repeat all the lenses would work with the 5D mark II. Only two lenses would work others were either too big or would not stay locked into place on the camera. The tripod doesn't work. I do not see how Amazon will let them sell anything on their website anymore after this incident.

Want Canon EOS 5D MARK II + Canon EF 28-135mm Lens + Canon EF 75-300mm UltraSonic Lens + Canon 50mm Lens Discount?

Just know what you're getting when buying.

I was not aware that in this particular Canon model, that not all of the focus points will give you a sharp focus. This by far has been the most disappointing thing given how much this camera costs. You can only really rely on the center focal point. I do believe the new Mark III will correct this issue only wish I would've known before I bought it!!

Love all of the other features, but of course they're not nearly as important as being able to get sharp focus!

You do get 3 Canon lenses, so the camera + lenses and a few of the other items; camera bags, tripod etc probably make the price equal to about what you would pay individually (or at least I hope). :) I'm not sure I needed the extra non-Canon lenses, and don't think the quality is nearly as good as the Canon and they require manual focusing, but of course you won't be paying Canon prices for them...so ok for a starter kit. Not sure the flash is helpful since Canon and other reviews I've read say that using anything other than a Canon flash may not sync properly and you risk damaging the camera -hardly worth taking the risk so now I have to purchase a Canon flash...another 200-300.

On the upside, you do get great shots with the center focus and if you're not worried about super tack sharp images when using the other focal points then no worries. All of the other features of the camera are great. The customer service of the company was good, and I got the camera quickly, so no complaints about buying from them or through Amazon. Only wish I'd known about the focusing issues prior to shelling out so much money. :(

Monday, June 30, 2014

VicTsing Dock to HDMI AV Cable Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPad 1 2 New iPad (1080P)

VicTsing Dock to HDMI AV Cable Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPad 1 2 New iPadI bought this cable as part of my continuing quest to "cut the cord". I still have unlimited data on my iphone and I like to watch Netflix and Hulu when I am on the road. I paid $21.99 for this product on Dec 1; it arrived Dec 21. It says shipped from Hong Kong but the return address was GuangDong province. It works exactly as described. I chose this cable because I wanted 30 pin to HDMI and I did not want 30 pin to USB and have to buy a second cable/converter.

Another reason to buy this is even though we have AppleTV, every time Apple updates the system software, their planned obsolescence kicks in and the Airplay feature stops working until the apps developers scramble to make their apps compatible. (Since I ordered this cable, France24 has started working again on Airplay.) (Netflix has always been on AppleTV and Hulu has been for a few months now. No AmazonVideo nor Pandora, yet.)

I also ordered this cable because it was a lot cheaper than what Apple was offering for the same job. However, with the rise in price, that may no longer be so true.

The cable works as promised. It does NOT mirror the iphone or ipad screen. However, when playing Netflix, Hulu, France24, etc, the video comes through fine. My TV is 1080p and says that the video is playing at 720p. I think that is the app and Netflix, not the cable. I give this product a less than perfect rating because the 30 pin plug is too chunky to fit in my iphone's Otter box, so I have to remove the case.

This cable works just as intended. Some apps allow 1080p, others don't. Like say your videos and Netflix will play in full screen but most apps just mirror the Ipad aspect ratio. So I can't dis the cable when it's really apple that sucks.

Buy VicTsing Dock to HDMI AV Cable Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPad 1 2 New iPad (1080P) Now

I had other cables before and they only play ceartain videos from my Iphone this cable plays pretty much anything that is display on my Iphone screen. which it is fantastic. It will not play those videos that you transfer to your Iphone using Itunes. Best when connected directly to your TV.

Read Best Reviews of VicTsing Dock to HDMI AV Cable Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPad 1 2 New iPad (1080P) Here

Cable works as advertised. Cost was reasonable and shipped quickly. I'll do business with these guys again if they have something I need.

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Now I can watch movies on Netflix , videos on YouTube and listen to my music in my 60 inch HDTV ..and works with my iPhone4 too ...love it ..I definitely recommend it to anybody with the iPads and iphones.

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Saturday, June 21, 2014

Cmple - 2 Pack of 3FT White PREMIUM HIGH SPEED HDMI CABLE, GOLD PLATED

Cmple - 2 Pack of 3FT White PREMIUM HIGH SPEED HDMI CABLE, GOLD PLATEDIf you need white HDMI cables at a great price and still want 1.4 specifications quality then these cables from Cmple are prefect. I bought the white cables to be less obtrusive and they are; the picture quality is amazing by the way.

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Canon EF Lenses Microfiber Cleaning Cloth for Digital SLR Cameras and Lenses

Canon EF Lenses Microfiber Cleaning Cloth for Digital SLR Cameras and LensesWell, it cleans smudges but leaves fiber on the glass. I tried to wash it. It become better, but still leaves fiber on the glass.

Cleans pretty well, but as others have said, it leaves behind fibers on the lens. The best way of dealing with this for me, is to use a can of air to blow them away. Problem solved.

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Lens cleaning is a constant issue when shooting in the field, i.e. nature with blowing dust, pollen etc. This is a good cloth for cleaning the canon lenses.

Read Best Reviews of Canon EF Lenses Microfiber Cleaning Cloth for Digital SLR Cameras and Lenses Here

what can i say, anything made by canon you can hardly ever go wrong. it cleans my glasses very well.

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im a brand-youknowwhat, so when i saw the canon logo on it, i jumped on it. its nice and soft, wont scratch your lenses, and its got the company logo. could be a little cheaper, but hey couldn't everything?

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

New Dynex 1080p v1.3 HDMI Video Cable - 6ft (2M)!

New Dynex 1080p v1.3 HDMI Video Cable - 6ft!i bought this item a long while ago, and it still works great! i use it with my desktop computer

I bought a few of these HDMI cables for connecting together my home theater. I've got one between my PS3 and surround sound receiver, another from the receiver to the television, and one from the receiver to a computer which I only connect and use occasionally. The cable was easy to put in place, plugs in without a problem, and operates as expected, even with repeated disconnecting/reconnecting.

Buy New Dynex 1080p v1.3 HDMI Video Cable - 6ft (2M)! Now

Purchased 5 cables. The cables came promptly but were only 6.33 feet long (aka 6'4"). They were not 6.6 feet. Besides being too short, everything else about them are perfect. If you don't need the couple extra inches like I did then these are for you.

Read Best Reviews of New Dynex 1080p v1.3 HDMI Video Cable - 6ft (2M)! Here

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Canon EOS Rebel SL1 18.0 MP CMOS Digital Camera with 3-inch Touchscreen and Full HD Movie Mode (Bod

Canon EOS Rebel SL1 18.0 MP CMOS Digital Camera with 3-inch Touchscreen and Full HD Movie ModeThis is a very compact DSLR similar in ability and layout to a Rebel T2i/T3i for stills. Enhanced autofocus has made it Canon's best DSLR for point-and-shoot style movies. Paired with small primes, it makes for an exceedingly capable travel camera. Larger kits can make the T5i preferable.

==== Rebel T5i:

18 MP

5 fps

9-point AF w/ 9 cross points

Hybrid AF w/ 9% frame coverage

1080p/30, 720p/60

Articulating touchscreen

Stereo mics

13m flash range

20 oz

==== Rebel SL1:

+ 14 oz, 30% smaller by volume

+ Hybrid AF w/ 80% frame coverage

-4 fps

-fixed touchscreen

-9 point AF w/ 1 cross point

-9.4m flash range

-mono mic

DIFFERENCES:

* Size.

This is the smallest DSLR from any make. It's a whole size tier below the T5i and level with a number of mirrorless bodies. Whether that's a worthwhile ergonomic compromise depends on the use case. With a small lens like a 40/2.8, the combined package reduces to prosumer point-and-shoot dimensions. Anything more ample (even the kit 18-55) and the bulk of the lens rapidly offsets the SL1's space efficiency.

In-hand, the SL1 is a fingertip camera. The palm of my large right hand doesn't rest easily against the body without finger contortions, so support comes mostly from the left under the lens. It feels (and looks) lilliputian if you're used to larger DSLRs, but that's the only real adjustment; the button layout has no surprises relative to the T2/3/4/5i.

* Single cross-point AF.

First, context: Canon uses autofocus to differentiate between DSLRs. More expensive cameras tend to have 'better' autofocus. Precisely what that means, and whether it matters, depends on your requirements. With the addition of movie capability, we've got three parameters to consider: stills with static subjects, stills with movement, and movies with movement. A complicating factor is that performance depends greatly on whether you're shooting through the viewfinder or from the rear LCD ("Live View"). Unlike point-and-shoot and mirrorless bodies, Canon DSLRs (and all others save Sony's) have two entirely separate autofocus systems.

When I talk about 'phase-detect' AF and 'cross-points', these are characteristics of the viewfinder AF system. The SL1's phase-detect AF array has 9 points. Only the center point is a cross-point. Cross-points (shaped like a +) detect contrast in any orientation. The 8 outer points (shaped like lines) only see contrast that's near perpendicular to them. The practical implication is that the T4i/T5i will be somewhat faster and more consistent with off-center compositions with wide-aperture lenses (e.g., 50/1.8) and motion-tracking.

Both systems outperform the contrast-detect focus in any current mirrorless body with motion. You focus through an optical viewfinder that'll never wash out, show noise in dim lighting, lag the action, or smear colors. In exchange, you lose the clever information overlays of electronic viewfinders (EVF) and the face tracking that's become a part of many contrast-detect systems.

Here's the phase-detect breakdown for this body:

VF, stills, static: fast and accurate in frame-center

VF, stills, movement: moderately fast and accurate in frame-center

VF, movies, any subject: not possible

This is the same AF array as in the T2i/T3i. If you were happy with those bodies, you'll be equally so with this one.

* Hybrid AF II.

In the T3i and prior, Live View focusing from the rear LCD was achieved by contrast-detect. This method is vastly slower than phase-detect and, in Canon's DSLR implementation, isn't capable of tracking motion in movies. It's reasonably quick and quite accurate with stills. It isn't possible to use the main phase-detect array without interrupting Live View because a mirror gets in the way.

The T4i/T5i added a second phase-detect system integrated into the imaging sensor itself that boosted acquisition speed and improved motion tracking to mediocre/adequate levels, but only for the center 9% of the frame. The SL1 expands this system to 80% frame coverage (or so Canon says; if you measure the pixel dimensions of the AF area, it's almost exactly 60%). The result is significantly more confidence with continuous autofocus in movies. With off-center subjects, it hunts (bringing the scene in and out of focus) much less than the T4i/T5i.

Here's the contrast-detect breakdown:

LV, stills, static: reasonably fast and accurate over the whole frame

LV, stills, movement: very slow, accurate when it can keep up

LV, movies, static: reasonably fast, occasional hunting

LV, movies, movement: very slow, accurate when it can keep up

Motion tracking is still short of exceptional. STM lenses (which use a stepper motor instead of standard USM or a noisy micro-motor) work more quickly and precisely than non-STM lenses. They'll track slow, undemanding subjects and faces. For more challenging movement, either prefocus, manually focus, or jump to the next performance tier comprised of Sony's 'translucent mirror' DSLRs and many mirrorless bodies (e.g., Panasonic G/GH). The SL1 has no focusing aids (e.g., focus peaking) for Live View except full-screen zoom. Focusing accurately by hand on a moving target is very challenging.

OTHERWISE:

Everything else is to lesser consequence. A slightly weaker flash, a slightly slower framerate, a smaller battery, one less microphone channel. Even the loss of LCD articulation isn't much of a bother unless you're continually shooting from vantage points away from the viewfinder.

A major advantage of the SL1 is that, like the T4i/T5i, it has a new touchscreen that that significantly lowers the EOS learning curve. It's capacitive and almost as responsive as a modern smartphone. Adjusting functions (e.g., exposure, white balance, focus points; everything) is as simple as tapping what you want. The camera won't be at the ready when you're manipulating the LCD, but thanks in part to an integrated 'feature guide' that explains most options, you probably won't need to pull out the manual on first acquaintance.

Phone gestures (e.g., pinch zoom, swiping) are now part of the picture review system, which makes checking focus vastly quicker and more flexible than on any other non-touch EOS body. Focus itself is touch-enabled in Live View mode, so you can tap to focus on static subjects anywhere in the frame without ever having to manipulate the 9-point AF system.

STILLS QUALITY:

This sensor is functionally identical to those in the T2i/T3i/T4i/T5i/60D/7D save for the pixels devoted to phase-detect. Noise and dynamic range are the same in raw. Expect acceptable results up to ISO 3200. Nikon's D5100 is slightly better, Sony's A65 slightly worse. It's about two solid stops better than a typical point-and-shoot.

Unless you're in a JPEG-only shooting mode (e.g., multi-shot NR, HDR), raw gets the most out of this camera. Post-production creates the bulk of the appeal of many photographs (e.g., Instagram) and JPEG often lacks the requisite flexibility. Raw shooting also lets you defer decisions (e.g., white balance, sharpening, noise reduction, color, lens corrections, tone curves, and even exposure) that distract from catching whatever moment you're after.

LENSES:

The 18-55/3.5-5.6 STM is a stellar optic. Focus is as fast as the camera allows, near-silent, and inaudible in movies, as is the IS system. If you upgrade, it'll be for speed, a different range, or perhaps more contrast, not because it isn't sharp enough. The 18-135/3.5-5.6 STM is equally impressive, though about an inch longer and twice the weight.

Light and small primes are well-suited to this body. The 40/2.8 STM, 50/1.8, 28/1.8, and 28/2.8 are all more compact than the kit lens. Larger lenses work as with any other EOS body, though some will be slightly more awkward when you're trying to adjust the zoom ring and support the rig from under the lens at the same time.

ACCESSORIES:

For video, buy SD cards 32 GB or larger. My pair of 16 GB cards have been inadequate for even a one-day event. For stills, two or three 8 GB cards is plenty.

Interface responsiveness isn't much affected by card speed. Faster cards have three advantages: they can shoot longer bursts at 4 FPS, clear the picture buffer more quickly, and record video at the highest quality without risking a speed warning. Buffer depth is 28 JPEGs and 7 raw files with a standard SD card. Buffer cycling times are much lower with UHS-1 ('Ultra High Speed'). In one-shot mode, this difference is invisible; very fast cards would only make sense if you were time-limited on card-to-computer transfers with a USB 3.0, SATA, or Firewire card reader.

If you buy protection filters for your lenses, try Hoya's "DMC PRO1 Clear Protector Digital" line. They have very high light transmission and cause no visible flare. Digital sensors filter UV natively, there's no reason to pay more for that feature. I've written reviews on the relevant Hoya product pages with more details and why you might (or might not) want a filter.

IN SUM:

Whether this DSLR is your huckleberry depends on your priorities. This is new territory for Canon. This camera is sized to compete with mirrorless, but the EOS lens line doesn't have as many compact options to pair with it, so you may still end toting around a separate bulky camera case.

Like just about every DSLR save Sony's, it's better for stills than movies, and that's the best reason to buy it. This iteration of Canon's phase-detect AF system has fairly high success with running kids, surfers, and other action you'd encounter at home or traveling. You also gain a broader array of narrow-purpose lenses (e.g., macro, tilt-shift, supertelephoto, superfast), potentially greater subject isolation, faster and better physical controls, and (for stills) an excellent optical viewfinder.

The counterpoint is that mirrorless bodies are less clunky than the strange amalgam of 'Live View' and traditional mirror shooting that defines this camera and other DSLRs. They have unerringly accurate focus with static subjects and often vastly superior motion tracking in the movie modes. Many of them, particularly on the system level, are even smaller than this SL1, though some makes fare better than others. You might be tempted by the EOS-M, Canon's first attempt at an interchangeable-lens mirrorless body. Don't be. Image quality matches this camera, but focus speed lags by quite a lot.

If your priorities favor DSLRs, hands-off autofocus in movies, and small size, the SL1 is the best choice in Canon's arsenal. If you expect to upgrade to larger lenses or equip bulky accessories like an external flash that'll negate the size advantage, a Rebel T4i or T5i will be preferable for most uses.

Please leave a comment if you intend to downvote so I can correct the inaccuracy.

I am impressed with my new Canon SL1 with the 18-55 kit lens. As a long time dedicated amateur photographer with a shelf full of other equipment, including fancier and much more expensive equipment, this could be the one I take with me and use most of the time. Here's why:

* Incredibly small and incredibly light. The biggest single reason for mirrorless cameras (Sony NEX, Fujifilm X) is now negated! I am sitting here looking at the SL1 next to my Fujifilm XE-1 with a comparable 18-55 zoom lens. The SL1 is lighter and smaller than the Fuji mirrorless camera with its electronic viewfinder. The SL1 optical viewfinder, while more compressed than a more expensive DSLR, to my eyes is still far superior to any electronic viewfinder. Canon appears to have achieved the small size by repackaging the sensor and shutter; impressive engineering and I feel sure that Nikon and Sony will have to follow suit. Let's hope we will now see a new generation of tiny DSLRs.

*Image quality: Excellent. Superb. The market reality is that the electronics of sensors have advanced so rapidly in the last few years that your newest entry level camera is guaranteed to perform better than the one you bought two years ago, no matter how much you paid for it. And new half frame sensors may be comparable to full frame sensors from a couple of years back. Also, the entry level DSLR market is the most competitive. Nikon (D3200) and Canon (SL1 or T4) are forced to give you more for your money then with high end full frame cameras. The SL1 is a bargain. Yes, you can get a marginal improvement in images and controls by going up market, but you will pay 3X as much in dollars, and in weight, and in volume. The cost of technology is usually on a log scale; 90% of state of the art costs X and 95% costs 3X and 99% costs 9X. It makes no sense to ride this curve unless you do very specialized or commercial photography. For most of us, the most important single thing is to have the camera with you when the photo opp comes up.

*Image comparison. The images coming out of this Canon SL1 are lovely, contrasty and with excellent colors. I compared directly with my full frame Nikon D600 and Fujifilm XE-1 indoors on a still-life, ISO 1600 in room light and ISO 200 with flash. Results; unless you are a fanatical pixel peeper, they are all in the same ballpark. Perhaps the SL1 had slightly more shadow noise at 1600 but was better on greens, etc. Note that the full frame D600 body costs 4X the SL1 and weighs more than twice as much! And anyway, does it really matter if some other sensor is s-l-i-g-h-t-l-y better? No it does not. I confess to being a 'recovering' pixel peeper and realizing recently that using the best available equipment is just not the determining factor in capturing photos that you will take pride in your whole life. The SL1 gives you 90% of the quality you will get from any camera anywhere at 1/4 the cost of a high end DSLR. The main difference is that the viewfinder is cramped and the settings are in menus rather than dedicated buttons. Big deal.

*Kit lens is: Just fine. By profession I am interested in the details of lens design and I admire beautiful finely crafted Zeiss lenses just as much as you do. But as a photographer I can tell you that for real capturing of once-in-a-lifetime handheld photo opportunities, what matters more for sharpness and image quality are a) image stabilization and b) zoom so you can scale the desired image to fill your sensor. Are high quality prime lenses "better?" In practical terms, usually not. For most photography, they will not produce a more detailed image unless your camera is on a tripod and the scene just happens to be matched to the focal length. For general opportunistic photography, squeezing out the last iota of lens quality is close to irrelevant. This is especially so these days when the camera JPG engine corrects many lens defects such as distortion and chromatic aberration automatically. Modern lenses no longer have to be perfect in the glass; they are half software. This is also why spending hours diddling around with RAW images in Photoshop no longer makes much sense the JPG engine has been programmed to optimize the specific lens and it will take much time and skill to equal this on your own. Today, JPEG is how cameras should be judged. Image stabilization in particular has a lot more to do with sharpness for handheld photos then ultimate lens quality. Having a zoom has a lot bigger impact on quality then the niceties of a prime lens because you don't need to crop down.

There is one factor however which does favor mirrorless over SLR; the size of lenses, which is limited by the laws of physics and the long flange-to-sensor distance that comes with a mirror. For the Canon SL1 or any SLR, zoom lenses will usually be bigger than the body. So I also bought the 40mm f2.8 Canon pancake lens which is compact for walk-around. In addition, Canon makes higher quality zooms such as the 18-85, but you will have to accept a weight of 575-645 g compared to 205 g for the kit lens. Canon also makes 24 mm and 28mm lenses with image stabilization that weigh only 260-281 g and would offer a good match for the SL1. And of course you may already have a collection of Canon lenses to begin with.

*But isn't the SL1 plasticky? Yes, it is plasticky. But it's also very light. And it doesn't cost so much. And it's so handy you're going to take it with you when you travel as opposed to leaving your big full frame Nikon at home or locking your Leica lenses in your safe. And if it gets stolen or dropped, not such a tragedy. Yes, there is a tactile pleasure to high precision Leicas from the 1950's, but at one time that mechanical precision was functionally necessary. Cameras do not need to be made like that any more to capture high quality photos.

*Interface and ease of use. Canon did a fine job on the menus and so forth. They are the world's largest mfg. of DSLR's and have it all worked out. No big problems, and the touch screen is a plus. In any case, although this is considered an 'entry level' DSLR, the full manual nevertheless runs to 388 pages, so plenty of options. Details; I find the flash pops up when I don't want it to, but there is an auto setting which suppresses flash right in the mode dial.

*Flaws? There is one real deficiency. When I switch to Live View (this means lock up the mirror and use the LCD to frame photos, like a point-and-shoot), the autofocus becomes slow and hunts for a lock. The mirrored autofocus runs on a dedicated phase detection principle but in Live View the sensor focusses using some combination of contrast detection (slow in poor light) with special phase pixels. In any case, it's slow; use Live View mainly in good light with a contrasty scene. Other minor annoyances: the on/off switch is not in the most natural place. Also the optical viewfinder picture is rather cramped and does not capture 100% of the full sensor field; more like 79%, so you will have to learn to compensate by overfilling the viewfinder frame a bit.

*Movies. Have yet to try it.

*Bottom line: This is a great little state of the art camera and lens which takes lovely photos without much fuss in an affordable tiny package. It benefits from the latest up to the minute sensor technology and the photos are quite comparable to high end mirrorless cameras and even in the same ballpark according to my test as full frame costing much more and weighing much more. Speaking for myself, a highly portable half-frame camera with an optical viewfinder is just the right combination. The whole justification for half frame mirrorless designs is now just about null and void. Canon has produced an advance similar to that of the Olympus OM series in the 1970's. Small is beautiful.

I love SL1 already and it may leave my other cameras sitting on the shelf from now on, or even send some to eBay. Bravo, Canon; you will sell a lot of these!

Note added in response to comments below:

Thanks to everyone who commented. But perhaps I did not make my viewpoint clear enough. Yes I know a skilled PhotoShop artist who spends an hour or two fiddling with an image may produce a better result than the in-camera JPEG. My point is that post RAW processing is no longer optional since lenses are now designed assuming their distortions, vignetting and chromatic aberrations will be corrected in software. Since that is the case, we have a right to expect an efficient in-camera JPEG and the camera must be evaluated that way, not just for a few hobbyists who have the time and skills to start from RAW. Second, I know it's possible to get slightly better, slightly lower noise images at high ISO from a full frame D600. But I have compared and the difference is simply not great enough to make it worth lugging the big heavy D600. In other words I am willing to compromise a bit on these performance factors in return for small / light / portable and with me more of the time. So please allow me my personal preferences and I will allow you yours.

Another note: Consumer Reports just reviewed the SL1 and rated it near the top overall.

Buy Canon EOS Rebel SL1 18.0 MP CMOS Digital Camera with 3-inch Touchscreen and Full HD Movie Mode (Bod Now

I've had several smaller cameras like the Canon G11. All had one fault that troubled me. They could not shoot quickly when a grand child photo op materialized. Setting up for a particular shooting situation was far too time consuming, but more importantly, there was too much delay once the shutter was depressed. When shooting flash with red-eye protection turned on the delay is worse yet. The SL1 is slowed a bit with red-eye on but not much and for all other shooting is as fast as other Canon DSLRs. Shots using available light are near instantaneous under normal lighting as is typical of Canon DSLRS and as is essential for shooting pets and grand kids. When shooting available light in low-light conditions the SL1 can take a second to focus but is still DSLR-quick, much quicker than lesser camera types.

Another issue I have with smaller cameras is a secure and comfortable grip. While the SL1 is dimunitive by SLR standards, it still fills the hands comfortably and doesn't feel like it's going to slip through your fingers as a Digital Elph or an S100 or S110 does. My right hand fingers do bottom against the front of the body (I'm tall with longish fingers) but not problematically so. The thumb rest on the back of the body is excellent; as good or better than any DSLR I've had before. The grip is great in spite of the small body and allows secure one-handed shooting. And, of course, the light weight means many shots before fatigue sets in.

As with any small camera with a large sensor, physics prevents an equally compact lens though the 18-55 kit lens is surprisingly compact and light. With the standard two-handed grip with the left hand underneath and the right hand up the right side, the zoom and focus rings are as easily accessed as on any larger dslr and lens and sure beat the rubbery electric zoom controls on more compact cameras.

While the body is small, seemingly half the size of a 5D or 50D or 60D or 7D, the controls are pretty much as accessible as those on these larger cameras and far better than on an more compact camera. I wasn't excited about the touch screen, being adicted to the Canon Q screen, but it's a winner. I use it more on every outing. I thought smudges from use of the touch screen would be a problem but that has not been the case even with a protective film applied. The LCD is very bright. I've only had to set it to full brightness for use in ver y bright sunlight.

If you are a Canon shooter now, you will be up to speed on this camera in an hour or two without ever cracking the manual (mine is still sealed). If you are new to DSLRs, the SL1 is probably as good a place to start as any.

I won't get into a lot of the technical details since they are well covered by others. It seems to do at least as well as any APS-C camera I've had. Suffice it to say, feature-wise, the SL1 has just about everything you can get in the Rebel line except the weight and size and the flip-out LCD. For me it's the perfect second camera for backup, to carry on long hikes, for use at the grand kids birthday parties and soccer matches, and for casual walk-around duty. I'll rarely be without it. My full frame DSLR will now be reserved for serious landscape and portrait shooting.

UPDATE ...........

It's been about two months now and I'm over 800 shots on the SL1. I like it better every time I pick it up in part because it lifts up so easily! I've now shot a five day vacation (one that did not justify taking the 5DIII) and a granddaughter's birthday party as well as a few family outings and some construction going on across the street. And lots of experimenting in the back yard. Here are my key findings:

The dedicated ISO button is a blessing. Because one runs into noise issues more often in a smaller sensor (compared to a full frame sensor in this case) keeping an eye on ISO is a good idea. Mostly I put ISO on auto and set it for a maximum of 3200 and shoot Av and the camera does a good job of balancing ISO and shooting speed, dropping below about 1/60 only when ISO would otherwise go above 3200. When a special situation arises such as when I have something to brace against the ISO button makes it very easy to force the ISO down for that shot.

The Av +/button is also handy. It lets you easily adjust Aperture and/or compensation in the Quick menu, surely the two most frequently accessed adjustments.

At ISO 3200 noise is hardly a problem for jpeg shooters. RAW shooters used to a 5DII or 5DIII and using the SL1 as a "backup" or for less demanding outings may be shocked at the noise. Even though it looms large compared to the full frame cameras, I don't think it's any worse than canon's other 18 MP bodies (60D, 7D, other Rebels). But, higher ISO images from the 5DII and 5DIII that did not require noise correction will typically require some color and luminance noise correction if taken with the SL1 (or any 18 MP Canon APS-C body). There are APS-C cameras with lower noise but I think none that offer the benefits of the SL1 (especially at the new lower price!).

The silent shooting mode is great. It's quieter than the quiet mode in my 5DIII!. It also slows the 4 frames per second burst mode down to an often more suitable 2-3 fps. As with my 5DIII, I set the SL1 on silent mode early on and it's been on that setting since (I may go back to the 4 fps mode when the grand kids are old enough for sports).

If I have an issue with the SL1, it's the zoom range of the kit lens. I love the compactness of this lens and the always excellent Canon image stabilization. However, at 18-55mm, it's plenty wide for casual use, but is a bit short on the tele end (88mm full frame equivalent). At my grand daughter's birthday party I shot well over 20 images at the maximum 55mm setting. Almost every one needed to be cropped. While this is a bit of a nuisance, the 18MP of the SL1 is sufficient to allow a lot of cropping so long as you are not printing beyond about 8x10. Also, unless you are an expert (I'm not), there is risk of zooming in too far and getting a less than ideal framing that you are stuck with. When cropping down from a too large image, you always get a perfect framing of the subject(s) (and you can crop to 4x6 or 8x10). Living with a maximum 88mm tele reach is thus not a bad thing. The logical upgrade would be to an 18-135mm zoom (29-216mm) though such lenses are considerably larger and weigh about 16 oz, almost three times the six oz of the kit lens. The SL1 would not be nearly so handy with such a lens.

I'm continuing to transition to the touch screen. I think I'll miss it when I next take the 5DIII out.

Read Best Reviews of Canon EOS Rebel SL1 18.0 MP CMOS Digital Camera with 3-inch Touchscreen and Full HD Movie Mode (Bod Here

Pre-ordered SL1 to replace old Rebel xSi in April 2013 before a trip to Europe. Huge technological step forward. Got 18-135mm STM for greater range than kit lens; still very compact. Brought 50mm 1.8 but never took 18-135 off camera fast enough. Took 2000+ shots plus some video; few bad shots. Low light performance astonishing; even ISO 6400 in near-darkness very usable with little noise (I shot entirely in JPEG). Smartphone users will find touch screen intuitive and easier than menu surfing; long-time Canon users will find customary buttons familiar. Well-balanced even with longer lens; body comfortable in large hands. Light weight ideal to wear around neck all day. Instant availability of video; can shoot stills within. Unlike T5i, SL1 screen fixed, not swivel, fine with me. Other features lacking versus T5i: stereo microphone (SL1 is monaural) and some multi functionality of cross keys IMO, small price to pay for lighter weight. For ready shooting on the fly, I used mostly in no-flash full-auto mode; for greater precision, used AV for focus-point and DoF control. (Can't opt for center-point focusing in full auto.) BTW, 64G Class 10 SD card was overkill for my trip, used only 15G. Very happy with this camera and 18-135mm lens.

Want Canon EOS Rebel SL1 18.0 MP CMOS Digital Camera with 3-inch Touchscreen and Full HD Movie Mode (Bod Discount?

Outstanding Camera, blew away my expectations! All of my pictures look like they were taken from a professional studio. I would absolutely recommend this product!

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Canon EOS 50D 15.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Standard Zoom Lens

Canon EOS 50D 15.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Standard Zoom LensSECTION 1: WHO IS THIS REVIEW FOR

This review is close to 10 pages long because it was written for people who are not proficient with the terms and concepts used in the DSLR world. If you are a proficient DSLR user then I would recommend that you check one of the much shorter reviews here or dpreview. For example, you already know what vignetting is and therefore understand the importance of the new lens peripheral illumination correction feature. However, a new DSLR buyer does not know what this means and this is why I therefore explain what each feature really is so these people can then decide if the feature is really important to them.

If you have not done so as yet, be sure to also check out my reviews of the Canon 7D and Canon 40D as well.

SECTION 2: INTRODUCTION

It has been just over a year now since I purchased my Canon 40D. At the time, I was just beginning to take my photography really serious. Since then, a lot has changed. I have now become a semi-pro. I still have my full-time job as an IT Manager here in Miami. However, I do a lot of photography work, especially events, on the weekends.

I really love my 40D but as I started doing more and more professional work I realized three things:

1. I needed a second camera body

2. I needed a camera with a more professional focusing system.

3. I needed a camera with even higher ISO performance

It was rumored back then that the replacement for the Canon 5D would be out in the first quarter of 2008. I decided to wait for it. However, when the time came there was no news from Canon about the 5D replacement. This was back in March 2008. The Nikon D300 had now been out for a while by then. I thought about buying it but I decided to wait until it was fully reviewed by dpreview as I wanted to see if Nikon had really finally addressed the high ISO performance issues. I ordered it one day after it was reviewed by Phil Askey on dpreview.

Since then, I have been using both the Canon 40D and the Nikon D300. I know it is a bit of a strange combo. People are always surprised when they see that I am using a Canon and a Nikon together.

I took all three cameras Canon 40D, Canon 50D and Nikon D300 over the weekend to the Miami Seaquarium to see how the new Canon 50D compared with both of them.

SECTION 3: NEW/CHANGED FEATURES

A. High-resolution LCD Screen

The LCD screen is still 3 inches. However, Canon has now increased the resolution from 230,000 dots to 920,000 dots which is the same as that found on the Nikon D300. Of course, this makes it a lot easier to check images on playback to see if they are sharp and in focus. More important, however, is the fact that Canon added a two layer anti-reflective coating which makes it way easier now to review images in bright sunlight. It is a lot easier to review images on the Nikon D300 than the Canon 40D. However, the Canon 50D definitely surpasses the Nikon D300 when reviewing images in bright sunlight.

B. 15.1 Megapixel CMOS Sensor

I think the MP increase is the biggest surprise to me since Canon has always been conservative when it comes to this. However, this increase now seems to be the trend as the new Canon EOS 5D Mark II has gone from 12 MP to a whopping 21 MP. I was always puzzled by the fact that the baby Canon Rebel had more MP than its big brother.

I can clearly see the difference in the resolution of the images produced by the 15.1 MP Canon 50D and those from the 10 MP Canon 40D. For a casual shooter this is not a big deal. However, for professionals shooting events this is really useful. Whenever I shoot an event I try not to turn it into a photo shoot. People are there to have fun. That is the first priority. I need to be able to get my shots fast. Many times this means getting the shot and then doing some cropping to make it perfect. Having 15 MP to play with can be a life savior here. Of course, if I only did portraits where I have time to pose my subjects this would be less important to me.

There is a small difference in the resolution of the images from the 15.1 MP Canon 50D and the 12.1MP Nikon D300.

C. High ISO Performance

The ISO setting control how sensitive the image sensor is to light. As the light gets lower you can increase the ISO to avoid using the flash. This is really important when you want to shoot in available natural light such as at dusk or at dawn when the light is really beautiful. Another example is when you want to photograph a bride and groom during the first dance without using the flash so you capture all the romance. The downside to increasing the ISO is that the resulting photos will tend to get grainier as the ISO increase.

The Canon 40D allowed me to go to ISO 1600 and then expand it to ISO 3200. When I just started out doing casual shots this was okay. However, I find that I often needed to go higher than 1600 and of course I was forced to use ISO 3200. On the Nikon D300 I could go all the way up to ISO 3200 standard so if I needed to use anything higher than ISO 1600 I would use the Nikon D300. That way if I only needed ISO 2000 I could use that setting rather than use ISO 3200. I must let you know that Nikon did fix the high ISO performance issues that plagued its DSLRs prior to the Nikon D300.

The Canon 50D now comes with a standard range of ISO 100 to 3200 just like the Nikon D300. However, the concern that I had was that with the big increase in MP count there would be much more noise (grain) at the higher ISOs. The more MP you have the more noise you tend to get at higher ISOs. I would have much preferred a smaller MP count and better high ISO performance. However, the engineers at Canon have really outdone themselves this time. The high ISO performance of the Canon 50D is just as good as the Nikon D300 even though it has 3MP more. Much of this is due to the fact that Canon is now using gapless micro lenses on the image sensor. This seemed to have really increased the light gathering capabilities of the pixels.

The Canon 50D ISO can be expanded to 6400 (H1) and 12800 (H2). The Nikon D300 can only be expanded up to 6400. However, on the Nikon D300 you can go from 3200 to H0.3 and then to H0.7 before you get to H1.0 which is 6400. This is more flexible than having to go straight to 6400 since you should generally try to use lower ISO speeds.

You might be thinking that it is absurd that anyone should want to use ISO 6400 and worse ISO 12800. However, there are times when getting the shot is more important than the quality of the shot itself. A good example here is when shooting sports. If the light becomes very bad for whatever reason you will need to increase your ISO as much as possible to get high enough shutter speeds to freeze the action.

D. Auto ISO Range (100 to 1600)

I have been to Butterfly World on several occasions to get photos of butterflies, birds and the tropical plants there. It is normally very sunny so to save time I shoot in Aperture priority mode. This allows me to simply set the aperture and then let the camera automatically set the shutter speed based on the current ISO and aperture settings. One thing about South Florida is that one minute it can be very sunny and then in just a few minutes it can become real cloudy. The problem this pose is that when it becomes real cloudy the shutter speed selected by the camera can be so low that it would result in camera shake which in turn results in blurry images. When I just started out my photography this actually happened to me as I would simply forget to check the shutter speed that was selected by the camera.

The auto ISO feature lets the camera automatically change the ISO to suit the shooting mode. For example, when in aperture priority mode if the camera detects that the shutter speed selected would result in camera shake it automatically increases the ISO. This feature is available on the Canon 40D. However, the maximum ISO it would automatically set is 800. The Canon 50D will now set ISO up to 1600 which is a lot more flexible.

The Nikon D300 actually takes the auto ISO concept further by allowing you to set the maximum ISO you want the camera to set and the minimum shutter speed you are willing to work with before the camera start to automatically set the ISO. This gives ultimate control to the photographer.

E. Burst Buffer

Another concern I had with the big increase in MP count was the impact it would have on the burst rate. With the MP count going from 10 to 15 this would normally result in a much slower burst rate. However, the new DIGIC IV image processor is a lot faster than the previous DIGIC III processor so the burst rate is pretty much the same at 6.3 frames per second from 6.5 frames per second. If you use a UDMA card with the Canon 50D you can buffer up to close to 90 large/fine JPEGs versus the 75 on the Canon 40D. The Nikon D300 can store up to 100 large/normal JPEGs at a burst rate of 6 frames per second. With the optional MB-D10 batter pack you can get 8 frames per second.

F. Lens Peripheral Illumination Correction

It is just a fact of life that the light entering a lens tends to fall off around the edges. This tends to be more pronounced when the lens is wide open. The resulting photo will appear dark around the edges. You will see it sometimes referred to as Vignetting. It is more common on cheaper lenses. However, even the most venerable and expensive lenses are not immune to this problem. I have sometimes seen it on my professional grade lenses such as the Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS lens and even the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 G lens.

If you have Photoshop CS3 you can quickly correct this problem. However, that is still one more thing that you have to worry about which increases your workflow. The Canon 50D has a database of 26 lenses that it will automatically correct Vignetting for. In addition you can enter another 14 models. This feature can be a really big time saver when you have many photos that were shot with the lens wide open. An example of this would be a photo shoot in natural low light where you have to shoot with the lens wide open most of the times. I remember one such shoot that I did with both the Canon 40D and Nikon D300. When I returned home I had to sit there and review each photo in Photoshop CS3 for Vignetting and fix the ones that I found. This is despite the fact that I had used two professional grade lenses for the photo shoot.

This correction works with JPEG as well as RAW images.

Note that this feature is turned off by default. The reason is that Canon has no idea whether the lens that you are using will work with this feature. Even when you activate it you have to check to make certain that you see "Correction Data Available" which confirms that it does work with your lens. If not you can add your lens to one of the available 14.

The Nikon D300 does not offer Vignetting correction but it does offer chromatic aberration (CA) correction which is not on the Canon 50D. CA is the colored fringes that you sometimes see in photos. The colored fringe normally happens along some edge in the photo where there is strong contrast. A good example is a photo of a white house with green trees in the background. The edge where the green trees meet the white house in the image is a good candidate for some kind of color fringing. Once again, this is something that can be corrected in Photoshop CS3 but anything that can be done by the camera will save a lot of time in post processing.

G. Live View Functionality

If there was one feature that I really missed from back when I had my Canon S5 IS point-and-shoot camera it was face detection. It's a feature that people always asked me about since the Canon 40D and Nikon D300 both had live view but no face detection. When I use live view on the Canon 40D and Nikon D300 I normally focus manually so I can zoom in on the face and then tweak the focus to make sure that it is as sharp as possible. With the 50D I can now save some time by using the new Face Detect live view mode. I also tried it with groups of people and it is pretty good at detecting the faces there as well.

The refresh rate for live view on the Canon 40D/50D is 30 frames per second which is twice that on the Nikon D300 and even the Nikon D3. This makes the Canons better if you want to pan in live view.

One of the biggest advantages of shooting digital is the ability to review a shot immediately to make certain it is good. Because the LCD monitor is just 3 inches, most photographers doing professional work also zoom in to check the focus and sharpness of the photo. You cannot simply look at the brightness of the image on the LCD monitor and assume that the exposure was good. For example, if you are in a dark room and take a photo, when you view it on the LCD monitor it will look very bright but that is because you are in a dark room. The exposure might not be really good and it is possible that the photo is actually underexposed.

When you are doing critical work the best way to review a photo is to view the associated histogram. This is nothing more than a grayscale graph of the tonal values in the photo. An ideal histogram is shaped like a dumb-bell or like a wave that goes up and then down. It goes from black (shadows) on the left and gradually to white (highlights) on the right. A quick check is to see if any of these are clipped (cutoff). If the highlights are clipped it means that something in the photo was overexposed. If the shadows are clipped it means that something was underexposed. If most of the values are to the left (shadows) it generally means that the photo is underexposed. If most of the values are to the right (highlights) it generally means that the photo is overexposed. The Canon 50D has a live view histogram. This is something that is somehow missing from the Nikon D300.

WARNING: If you are coming from a point-and-shoot (P & S) background it is important to understand that live view on a DSLR is different from what you are accustomed to.

(1) The first thing you need to be aware of is that live view is really suitable for still subjects that do not move. A good example of this is if you want to a portrait of your kids where you can get them to stay still. On the other hand, it is not suitable for taking action shots such as your kids playing or of their dance performances. For these action shots you should start out using the sports automatic mode which is for action photography when you don't know how to set your own shooting parameters.

(2) Live View is only available in the creative modes. If you want to use it and you are a beginner you will have to put the camera in Program (P) mode. This is one of the creative modes but the camera set everything for you so you don't have to worry about setting anything. The only thing you will have to remember is to lift up the flash when it is needed.

(3) To use auto focus you will have to press the AF-ON button. You can focus manually the usual way.

H. Quick Control Screen

One feature that I really have enjoyed using on the Canon 40D is to use the LCD screen to set my shooting parameters such as ISO and drive mode. However, I had to push the info button twice for the screen to appear and I still had to use the buttons on the top of the camera. The Canon 50D has improved on this concept. Now all I have to do is push the multi-controller straight down to get into what is now called the Quick Control Screen where the shooting parameters are displayed on the LCD screen. Also, I can now use the multi-controller to simply select any shooting function and the use the quick-control dial to change its settings. Of course, this is a lot easier than having to make selections by pushing different buttons on the top of the camera.

The Nikon D300 has the same kind of functionality here as the Canon 40D. However, the user interface is a lot friendlier on the Canon as the names of all the icons are also displayed as well. Remember that the Nikon D300 is targeted at more advanced shooters so it does not bother with showing the names of icons. It does not even come with any automatic modes like the Canons.

I. Creative Auto Mode

When you use the Full Auto mode the camera controls just about everything. You cannot even decide whether you want to use the flash or use continuous shooting. The Canon 50D no longer has a C3 mode dial. It has a new Creative Auto (CA) mode dial. When you use this mode dial the Creative Auto screen comes up on the LCD monitor. The settings start out just as if you were shooting in full auto mode. However, you can use the multi-controller to select and make changes to any of the following: flash firing, picture brightness, picture style, image-recording quality. You can also decide whether you want to use single, continuous or self-timer shooting.

There is one special change that you can make here that needs special mention. You have probably seen some beautiful portraits where the background is beautifully blurred. This not only makes the subject stands out but also gives the portrait an overall artistic look. The only problem is that you have to be able to set your own aperture to achieve this effect. The Canon 50D has now changed all that. When you are in CA mode, you now have a graphic slider on the Creative Auto screen that you can drag one way to blur the background more and drag it the other way to make the background sharper. There is absolutely no need for you to have any idea about aperture and depth-of-field. You can now produce portraits with beautiful backgrounds (bokeh) simply by dragging a slider!

Since the Nikon D300 is targeted at advanced shooters you won't find something like this on it. It is assumed that if you are buying a camera like that, that you already know how to set your own aperture and shutter speed etc.

J. High ISO Noise Reduction

Earlier on I told you that as you start using really high ISOs you will start noticing more and more grains (noise) in the photos. Cameras like the Canon 40D, Canon 50D and Nikon D300 all offer a custom setting which allows you to specify whether you want the camera to reduce high ISO noise. You might be wondering why the camera does not simply always try to reduce high ISO noise. Well, there is a trade-off involved here. As you try to reduce the noise you will lose some of the details. If you are taking a photograph and you need to preserve details even at the expense of some noise you can simply chose to turn off high ISO noise reduction. If it is more important to get a clean photograph even though you might lose some of the details then you should turn high ISO noise reduction on. One major drawback of using high ISO noise reduction is that it greatly reduces the burst rate. This is another reason why it is turned off by default.

The Canon 40D offers just 2 settings here on and off. The Canon 50D allows 4 settings standard, low, strong and disable. This gives you much more flexibility as you can chose to use a low setting rather than just an on setting which is the equivalent of strong.

The Nikon D300 also has 4 settings which are pretty much the same as those on the Canon 50D even though they are named slightly different.

K. Micro AF Adjustment of Lenses

Starting with the Canon 40D, Canon started trickling down some of features from the professional 1D Mark III DSLR. One feature that did not make it down to the Canon 40D is the ability to fine-tune the AF on your lenses. This advance feature is now on the Canon 50D. You can chose to adjust all lenses by the same amount or you can actually adjust up to 20 lenses individually.

This feature is also on the Nikon D300.

L. HDMI Output

One of the biggest advantages of shooting digital is that you can review your shots right away as well as show them to your clients or friends right there if you have a display unit that you can hook your camera up to. Of course the craze these days is HD. Everything just seems to look better in HD. There was no HDMI (High Definition Multimedia Interface) output on the Canon 40D so you could not do a slideshow on a HDTV. With the 50D you can now do that. You can now take some really cool photos of your kids and view them right there on your HD television which makes a huge difference from viewing them on a non-HD display.

The Nikon D300 has this feature.

M. Auto Lighting Optimizer

When you photograph a scene that is evenly lit your camera does a very good job of setting a proper exposure to ensure that your main subject comes out bright enough. However, if the scene contains high contrast areas of brightness and darkness it can trick the camera and cause your main subject to come looking really dark. For example, if you try to photograph your friend with the sun behind him you will most likely find that your friend comes out looking really dark. This is because the bright light from the sun in the background tricks the camera into believing that there is more light on your main subject than there really is.

The auto lighting optimizer feature enables the camera to better handle these kinds of scenarios by lightening the dark areas in a scene such as your friend while still keeping the details in the bright areas such as the sun in the background. This feature was not on the Canon 40D but it was added to the Canon Rebel XSi which came after it. With the Canon 50D you now get this feature but with 4 settings rather than just the enable and disable settings found on the Canon Rebel XSi. You can choose from standard, low, strong or disable.

This feature is on the Nikon D300 with similar 4 settings.

N. New sRAW

There is a new extra small raw file format. With the 50D you now have the option of shooting RAW files at 3.8MP, 7.1MP and of course the whopping 15.1MP.

O. That Darn Print Button

I don't know what is it about that darn print button that Canon just refuses to get rid of it. Yes, it is still there on the Canon 50D. However, this time you can use it as a shortcut to live view. This is a welcome change over the Canon 40D. On that camera I had to store a short cut to live view in the My Menu tab. Now with the Canon 50D I can turn live view on and off by simply pressing the print button.

P. New Function Button

The jump button is still there but its functionality has changed. It is now a function button that you can decide which of the following menu items you want it to activate: LCD Brightness, Image Quality, Exposure Compensation/AEB Setting, Image Jump and Live View Settings. Based on your current shooting scenario you can decide which one of these you want to appear when you press the Function button. For example, at Miami Seaquarium I assigned the LCD Brightness menu to it. This is because the lighting varies greatly from one place to another so I had to keep adjusting the LCD Brightness constantly to review the photos. Instead of having to go through the menu each time it was really convenient to simply press the function button and have the LCD Brightness menu appear great time saver.

SECTION 4: Is this the right camera for you?

Your buying decision should be based on your requirements, budget and personal preferences.

It is very tempting when comparing the 50D to the 40D to get carried away with the 5MP difference. However, you really need to consider the type of work that you will be doing and the maximum print size that you expect to do. Here is a summary of the maximum print sizes for different megapixels (resolution):

6 megapixels 8" * 10"

8 megapixels 11" * 14"

10 megapixels 13" * 19"

As you can see if your maximum print size is 8" * 10" then you are covered with even a 6 megapixels camera. You should really have a very good reason for needing more than the 10MP found on the Canon 40D.

Here is what you should do. Check off the new/changed features that you think you will need based on where you would like your photography to start and be in a couple of years. If these new/changed features are not really important to you then go with the Canon 40D. You will save yourself some money that you can then use towards buying a good lens. For example, assume that you have $2,000 to spend on both the camera and lens and you are just interested in getting great shots of your children playing soccer and of their dance performances. In that case I would recommend that you get the Canon 40D body ($955) plus the Canon EF 24-105mm L IS lens ($1,040). It is really important to get a good lens. It is better to have a good L lens on a Canon 40D rather than a mediocre lens on the Canon 50D. On the other hand, if you know you want to do strong professional work and you definitely want a Canon then I can highly recommend the Canon 50D with its new/changed more advanced features. You will not be disappointed with this camera. So far I have found it to live up to everything that it promises. I am really blown away by the fact that Canon could really pack so many MP into that sensor and still give great high ISO performance on par with that of the Canon 40D and Nikon D300.

The decision between the Canon 50D and the Nikon D300 is a little bit trickier. Last year when I purchased the Canon 40D, the body was going for $1,299. This means that Canon has only added $100 to make the price $1,399 for the Canon 50D. When the Nikon D300 launched last year, the body was going for $1,799. This difference in price plus the fact that there are still many features on the Nikon D300 that are not on the Canon 50D, tell me that Canon is still not trying to compete directly with the Nikon D300. This is reinforced by the fact that Canon has now even added a Creative Auto mode which is for beginners. In my opinion Canon is trying to provide a DSLR that can be used by both beginners and even professionals depending on the type of work that they do. This is all done at a very reasonable price. The problem that I see right now is that the price of the Nikon D300 is now at $1,550 which means that for just $150 more you can get a much more advanced camera. Two of those key features are the whopping 51-AF focus points versus the 9 on the Canon 50D as well as 100% coverage in the viewfinder versus 95%. You have to decide if the higher resolution, higher ISO performance and a better live view on the Canon 50D are more important to you. If so, then you should go with it. If not, you should go with the Nikon D300. However, be prepared to spend a lot of time learning because there are no automatic modes on that camera. Another important point to consider is the availability and prices of the lenses you will need. Canon lenses are readily available and are also cheaper than their Nikon equivalent. Shortly after I purchased my Canon 40D I simply went on Amazon and bought a Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS lens. After I purchased my Nikon D300 I had to wait several months before I could get my hands on the Nikon equivalent of that lens. It is constantly back-ordered. When I finally got it I had to pay $300 more than the regular price. I own 5 Canon L lenses and I had no problem getting them they were all ordered right here on Amazon.

SECTION 4: Conclusion

Your camera should make you feel invincible when out in the field. The Canon 50D is a robust and capable camera that produces stunning images even at very high ISOs. However, it is really up to you to decide whether this is the camera that is best for you based on your personal requirements, budget and preferences. Whether you decide to go with this camera or the Canon 40D or the Nikon D300 I can promise you that you will not be disappointed.

You can check out photos from the Canon 40D and Nikon D300 on my website at tajdigistudios. As I do shoots with the Canon 50D you will see photos from it as well. Be sure to check under the Portfolio menu item. If you are new to DSLRs you might want to check out my free course at tajdslrcourse. If you are considering the Canon 40D you should also check out my review of it right here on Amazon.

10/25/2008: I have uploaded three (3) photos of butterflies to the Customer Image Gallery here. The image quality is simply amazing. I really love this camera!!!!!

11/2/2008: The dpreview of the Canon 50D came out a few days ago. I have added a comment to discuss my thoughts on this. If you have found this review helpful, I recommend that you take a look at my comment to consider some of the negatives from that review. I ran out of space here.

11/23/2008: Softness Issue

In my original review I mentioned that you need a good lens with this camera. I want to stress it again because I have seen reports of softness which is as a result of the high resolution showing up the flaws of the lens being used. Several reviews have made this clear but it seems that people have not paid much attention to it so I am adding the references to this important requirement for getting the best results from the Canon 50D.

Dpreview actually pointed it out but not in a very clear way when the reviewer said: "At a pixel density of 4.5 MP/cm2 ... the lens becomes the limiting factor".

Digital Camera Review makes it much clearer what the issue is: "If anything, the extreme resolution of the new image sensor makes the lenses a potential weak link in terms of overall image quality." They continue: "Even stopped down, many budget lenses may produce soft images that lacks punch and crisp details, making it all the more important to pay attention to the glass you're using.". And finally: "Bottom line, there's not much to criticize about the image sensor in terms of image quality, so the right glass will make the biggest difference."

Camera Labs puts it like this: "Perhaps the biggest issue facing the EOS 50D though is its high resolution. Canon's use of gapless micro-lenses may have kept noise levels under control, but the high pixel density places greater demands on optics than ever before. We found the new EF-S 18-200mm IS lens, while highly flexible in terms of composition, just wasn't able to exploit the maximum resolution from the EOS 50D. If you want to make the most of the 50D's resolving power, you'll really need to couple it with decent lenses in terms of a general purpose option, the EF 24-105mm f4.0L would be more appropriate."

Finally, from imaging-resource here is one of the cons: "Soft images with the 28-135mm kit lens; demands very good optics"

FOR BEST RESULTS, DO NOT BUY THIS CAMERA UNLESS YOU CAN AFFORD A GOOD LENS WITH IT!

I have seen some comments here by others that the Canon 50D is lacking IQ and could be Canon's Vista. They claim that this view is supported by dpreview and imaging-resource. I am a bit surprised by this since both dpreview and imaging-resource both highly recommend this camera.

Here is what imaging-resource had to say: "So while the 40D is great, and will remain in the market, the Canon 50D incorporates plenty of enhancements worth the couple-hundred extra bucks. The Canon 50D is an excellent digital SLR." Here is the final verdict from imaging-resource: "Excellent low-light performance, impressive printed output, very fast shutter lag times, solid build, superb customization, and excellent image quality all add up to make the Canon EOS 50D a great choice for all types of photographers, and a sure Dave's Pick."

At least both imaging-resource and cnet agrees that the Canon 50D delivers better results than the 40D at ISO 1600 and 3200. Their findings show that the higher resolution delivers extra sharpness without showing significantly more noise.When people make these negative claims make sure you actually go and check the professional reviews that they are supposedly referencing.

Upon reading my way through every review I could find about this camera I noticed that a lot of people were upset about noise levels compared to those seen in the 40D. As I was looking to buy one or the other at the time it was very important to me to see if these noise issues were in fact true or just caused by external factors. Lucky for me a good friend has a 40D and a local camera shop was nice enough to let us borrow their 50D to snap a few comparison shots. My friend and I took shot after shot using identical settings and identical lenses under a variety of situations, (low light, high speed, high light, inside, outside, dull colors and vibrant colors). We then took the pictures, compiled them on a single memory card and displayed them on my 46" 1080P HDTV. Results were very much in favor of the 50D. Shot for shot the 50D either matched or exceeded the picture quality of the 40D in all but one situation: indoors with low light and dull colors. Under that situation the 50D seemed to noise out on the constant color areas, (beige walls for example), while the 40D tended to noise out at the interface between colors, (at the boundary of a beige wall and darm crown molding for example). Both developed noise but the 50D had more.

Overall though I was very impressed with the performance of the 50D. It picked up a lot of details that the 40D didn't even come close to getting, (thanks to the 15.1MP sensor no doubt), was much better able to capture high-speed action in daylight and only produced noisy images under very particular situations.

I purchased the 50D.

Buy Canon EOS 50D 15.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Standard Zoom Lens Now

Before you read this review, please note that the Canon 50D and D90 are not in the same class and are targeted at different markets, but there are still many people, including myself, comparing them with each other due to the relatively small difference in price. The Canon 50D should be compared to the Nikon D300, but since the D300 is clearly a better camera, there is no point. The 50D is in fact, somewhere in between the D90 and D300. With that being said, I hope you find my review helpful.

I spent a lot of time researching and comparing the Canon 50D with the Nikon D90. I picked the 50D. I hope my information here can help some of you out there making the same comparisons.

First of all, I highly suggest that you go to a local store and actually hold both cameras, play with them and get a feel for them. You will notice right away that the D90 feels cheap and is just made of plastic. The 50D, on the other hand, is made of magnesium-alloy and feels sturdy. It actually feels like a high-end camera. The 50D is also weather-sealed, unlike the D90. Build quality is extremely important, so keep that in mind. I also found the menus and button locations to be more user-friendly than the Nikon's.

I read a countless reviews on the 50D and D90. Most D90 reviews were pretty consistent with each other. The D90 is a great camera that provides excellent image quality, can take 720p videos and is $300 less than the 50D. The 50D review were also pretty consistent with each other. The 50D is not much of an improvement over the 40D, the increase to 15.1MP resulted in a small increase in image quality and resulted in more noise at higher ISO settings, it cannot take videos and is $300 more than the D90.

From a value standpoint, the D90 is a better camera. It's a few hundred bucks cheaper than the 50D and can take videos. That's pretty much where the comparisons end. Here's why.

1. The D90 isn't even a direct competitor of the 50D. The D90 is aimed toward the consumer market while the 50D is aimed toward the prosumer market. However, I still couldn't resist comparing the two, since the D300 was out of my budget.

2. Video Mode Nikon released the D90 with a sub par video recording feature. It maxes out at 720p and does not, I repeat, DOES NOT have auto-focus. From my experience with the D90's video mode, the combination of holding the camera with one hand while focusing with the other and walking around resulted in, well, bad videos. If you want to take videos, get the Canon T1i.

3. Performance The 50D, as with other prosumer level cameras, uses CF cards while the the D90, as with other consumer level cameras, uses SD cards. CF cards offer higher capacities, but more importantly, faster speeds. The 50D is capable of taking 6.3 frames per second in continuous shot mode while the D90 is capable of taking 4.5 frames per second. That's with JPEGs. Try continuous shooting with the D90 in RAW mode, and it will just beg you to stop. The D90 just isn't made for high speed photography. It's made for taking pictures when you are out on vacation with the family. The 50D, on the other hand, was designed for high speed photography, such as sports and and capturing moving objects.

4. Image Quality Both cameras offer excellent image quality. It has been said in several reviews that the 50D produces noise at higher ISO settings than the D90 and even the Canon 40D. The reason for this is the higher MP count combined with the small size of the APS-C sensor along with the low quality of the lenses that were used in the reviews. If you plan on buying the 50D, PLEASE invest in a good lens to take advantage of the camera's increased pixel count. Had better lenses been used in reviews, the 50D would have received even better reviews. The 50D is not a consumer/enthusiast level camera, so why use cheap lenses to review it?

5. Live View Wow, Live View is a sweet feature in DSLR camera. If you have an important shot to take, Live View can help you immensely! The 50D and D90 both have Live View. The D90 only has one auto-focus mode in Live View, which is Contrast Detect. The 50D has Phase Detect and Contrast Detect. The D90 can only zoom in 6.7x, while the 50D can zoom in 10x. Why is this important? The more you can zoom in, the more precisely you can dial in the focus. In addition, the 50D also offers micro focus adjustment to really dial in the focus. The D90's Live View is adequate for the average casual user, but it's completely unacceptable to a higher end user. The 50D's Live View feature caters to a more demanding photographer.

6. Value The D90 is a few hundred dollars cheaper than the 50D. It has features that attract the average consumer, such a video. It produces great images worthy of a prosumer level camera, but lacks the feature and flexibility that a prosumer level camera offers, such as better build quality, better ergonomics, faster continuous shooting, full featured Live View and better tweakability. If these features are not important to you, get the D90. However, as you improve your photography skills and start to photograph a wider variety of scenarios, you will find yourself wanting the additional features that the 50D offers.

The question you should be asking yourself is What do I want to do with the camera? Do you need a camera like the 50D, or do you see yourself needing its additional features down the road? The 50D might be too much camera for many people. For that reason, I highly recommend the casual user to get the D90. For you real photographers out there, get the Canon 50D. You will not miss the video feature, trust me. If you really want a Nikon, get the D300 (which does not have video either).

Read Best Reviews of Canon EOS 50D 15.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Standard Zoom Lens Here

I have had my hands on a 50D for exactly two days, and have taken only a few more than 100 photos; however, it is clear to me that this is no "40D Mark II." It is a giant step-up from the 40D and, in my opinion, akin to a jump between the 20D and 40D (the 30D skipped intentionally). I can speak and write confidently of this because I own or have owned all four cameras. I have the 50D with EF 18-200mm IS Telephoto Lens, which came as an offered kit. Additionally, I own and have used the 50D with an EF 24-105mm f4L and EF 85mm f1.8. Here is my two day take:

a. Controls are familiar yet more intuitive than the 40D;

b. Photos are top shelf. "Incredible!," "Beautiful!," and "Wow!" are superlatives which came quickly to me and to my close friends. I tried a few photos at higher ISOs. Those photos showed a bit of `noise,' however, was much less than expected. Noise at low and mid-range ISOs was not visible to me. I took many pictures in shaded areas to see if this camera handles colors, tones, and lighting better than the disappointing manner of the 40D. Seems to be truth to the claim of improvement in that area. Not a Nikon D2, but still quite excellent. I did not do any flash photography.

c. The LCD is bright, sharp, and much more viewable in sunlight than its predecessor. I think it matches well with those on the Nikons, which seems to have been one major objective with this camera.

d. The camera body is solid; feeling to me even more so than the 40D.

e. The 18-200mm IS lens was quite nice, and provides a great "one-lens" option. I have not compared photos taken with it to those taken with the EF 24-105mm L-series; however, I believe in L-series lenses and would guess the 18-200mm will not hold a candle to the L's. That said, it is a very excellent lens!! My only criticism is the significant differences in focusing `speed' between it and the 24-105mm L lens. It is Slooooooow...

The bottom-line is that 50D is a very excellent and, potentially, a very outstanding camera. Not perfect by any means, but a great step forward. I have not to date exercised enough of it's' features and options to be more specific now, but I will follow-up with more information once I have the opportunity to use the camera more. I rated it a conservative "4 stars," which for me is a high rating.

FYI, I am an advanced amateur photographer. I have much experience with Canon SLRs dating back to the A-1, and with some Nikons, including the D300. I have remained a Canon enthusiast because of the investment I have in EF lenses, and because Canon, sooner or later, always seems to come to the dance with superb equipment.

Want Canon EOS 50D 15.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Standard Zoom Lens Discount?

I used the 40D for a year, purchased the 50D based on positive user reviews here and at other online merchants, but as soon as I started taking photos with the 50D I noticed it had more noise and was softer than the 40D. Within a few days, people and review sites started posting comparisons and they all showed the same. Many people are raving about the 50D's greatness, but the photos tell a different story.

The 50D does have a much better LCD, does handle colors slightly better, but has more noise in photos than the 40D at ISO400 and up, as well as softer images. Taking softness and noise into consideration, you're not getting the clarity you should with 15mp, when compared to the 40D's 10mp. Even when downsizing photos to a smaller, web-sized image, more noise artifacts were visible in the 50D. Since I mostly shoot concert photography, I did not feel this was a worthwhile upgrade, so I returned the 50D and purchased another 40D.

If you shoot outside or in bright light you'll have better use of the 50D, but I don't think you're getting a great use of those 15mp. The 5D is 12mp and produces sharper images than the 50D yes, it has a larger, better sensor but my point is to show how you're not quite getting the most out of the 15mp on the 50D. You're paying for 15mp, but how useful are they? If the 50D were 12mp, then producing sharper images with less noise than the 40D, I would have found that to be a worthy upgrade. The battery also drains faster in the 50D because of the LCD upgrade, if you use LCD much.

While the 50D may be great for some, I'll wait to see what's next. I highly recommend getting the 40D instead; save money, get better lenses, upgrade later (hopefully the next xxD) and shame on Canon. Their claims of the 50D having less noise must have been based on its blotchy in-camera noise reduction quality and the more aggressive default settings of DPP's (Canon's Digital Photo Professional software) noise reduction as well.