Showing posts with label hd computer monitor. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hd computer monitor. Show all posts

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Campro Adjustable Swivel Shoe Mount, Accessory Shoe To 1/4x20 Thread for Mounting Video Monitors

Campro Adjustable Swivel Shoe Mount, Accessory Shoe To 1/4x20 Thread for Mounting Video Monitorsuseable, but the rubber on top of the screw didn't last more than one use. I had to replace it after the first use with a random part I had left over. Plus shipping on this small piece was almost half the price, doesn't add up for me. Great customer service but not the best quality of product.

Monday, August 4, 2014

Canon PowerShot SD800 IS 7.1MP Digital Elph Camera with 3.8x Wide Angle Image-Stabilized Optical Zo

Canon PowerShot SD800 IS 7.1MP Digital Elph Camera with 3.8x Wide Angle Image-Stabilized Optical ZoomIn my opinion, this camera is worthy of a 5 star rating, one of the few I've ever given.

My experience with cameras in this class started with a Canon S-100, which I upgraded later to a Canon S-400, both of which proved to be excellent for my on-the-go photography needs. My only criticism with this class of cameras was that they lacked two features I really wanted:

1. wide angle lens

2. image stabilization

I guess the Canon folks read my mind with the introduction of the SD-800, and after reading a number of positive technical reviews for the camera on the web, I purchased one as an upgrade for my beloved S-400. I was particularly suspicious regarding image stabilization, since my only prior experience with a camera using this technology had been disappointing (Canon S-1, a larger 10x zoom model).

As might be expected with the advances in memory technology, the SD-800 takes movies at a higher resolutioni (640x480) than the S-400 (320x240) and has a higher maximum pixel count (7.1 vs 4.0). It also uses the smaller SD memory cards as opposed to the bulkier CF cards for the S-400, and the lithium battery pack has a different form factor (which means you can't reuse stuff from an earlier model).

What I consider to be the 2 real upgrade features for this camera, the wide angle lens and the image stabilization, are what truly distinguishes it from its competition. I've had this camera for about a month now and can happily report it is a significant advance over the S-400. The image stabilization is a dream. With the S-400 I had to rely on bracing the camera in many circumstances where with the SD-800 I can count on sharp images just holding it out, composing, and taking the shot. In a recent work session where my group had accumulated a great deal of writing on a wide white board along the side of a narrow conference room, I was able to capture in a single, sharply focused shot the entire board, something the S-400 would have taken 2 shots to achieve followed by a photo stitch. There is some distortion at the outer edges, but I personally don't see this as a drawback given the advantages to getting the whole image (after all you can crop the picture if the rather small amount of distortion truly bothers you).

What else? Well, the camera is lighter and more comfortably contoured than the S-400. It does retain the view finder (thank heavens ... there are simply circumstances where this is the only reasonable way to compose a shot). A single door is used for both memory and battery (vs. 2 doors on the S-400). As others have reported, the door has a flimsy feel, but my first camera in this line (the S-100) had a similar door and I never broke it. Anyway, the USB-2 picture download pretty much eliminates needing to pop out memory cards to get a faster download speed via a card reader. I did invest in a 4Gb high speed SD card since maximum movie length is 4Gb at 640x480, 30 frames per second, or about 25 minutes worth of pretty darn good movie taking. My experience to date is that with this level of capability and convenience I doubt I will every use my cam corder again for family movies.

Out of the box I found the controls and interface to be easier and more intuitive than the S-400. I have all the capabilities I had with the S-400, plus some "gee-whiz" features I've had fun with but I doubt I will use routinely (e.g., color swap). I can also recommend Canon's leather case for this camera. It provides an extremely easy way to carry the camera on your belt (it uses a belt loop, which I think is far superior to a belt clip). I was initially put off by the magnetic flap used with this case, but now agree it's a superior design (their earller cases used Velcro).

I'm a professional photographer who shoots with two Nikon SLRs and an array of Nikon lenses; some of the lenses alone cost five times the price of the Canon SD800. But I got tired of lugging heavy camera equipment around for family and travel photos and general grab shots. So when I'm not working, the SD800 is what I use.

It's not perfect for sure. To name just a few annoyances: it suffers from red-eye effect when you take flash pictures of people; like all point-and-shoot cameras, it has noticeable shutter lag; it has rather a lot of image noise at ISO settings over 200; and its 'manual' mode doesn't let you set an aperture value or a shutter speed. I also notice quite a bit of lens aberration, which becomes especially evident when pictures include straight lines, such as doorways; the SD800 gives them a slight curve.

But maybe all that is the wrong way to look at it. For a $375 featherweight camera, this thing can't and shouldn't be expected to deliver SLR-like quality or features. And what the SD800 DOES do well is more important: It takes lush, pleasing pictures with very good color fidelity (a Canon trademark) and with minimal thought and fuss required from the photographer.

It's also a very pleasant camera from a usability point of view, and not just because it slips easily into a shirt pocket or into the nicely made but optional Canon belt case ($15). The SD800 has only nine controls (buttons and dials), which is usually a recipe for confusion as functions either tend to get hidden deep inside menus, or require counterintuitive pushes of several buttons to access. But the camera is more logically laid out and designed than any compact I've ever shot with. I only had to crack the manual for a couple of advanced tricks, like photo-stitch and color-swap. The rest of the SD800's operation is pretty much self-evident.

I appreciate that the power button is recessed; whenever I tried to stuff my old Canon Powershot G6 into my pocket, or pry it out, that camera would turn itself on due to the poor placement and design of the power switch. It got annoying enough that I sold it. There are no such design goofs on or in the SD800.

The camera's proprietary battery provides lots of juice, the screen (which is as big as on my $1,600 Nikon D200) is bright and clear, the image stabilization works really well, and the range of the lens is just right (being able to shoot at 28mm -respectable wide angle -is a wonderful thing, very uncommon among point-and-shoots, whose lenses typically start at 35mm).

All told, I quite smitten with this nice-looking, well-thought-out little picture-taking machine. Considering that it also takes decent video footage, the combination of quality, features, and value is, in my book, untouched by any other digital compact currently on the market.

Buy Canon PowerShot SD800 IS 7.1MP Digital Elph Camera with 3.8x Wide Angle Image-Stabilized Optical Zo Now

This is my fourth camera from the Canon Digital Elph line (previously, I had an S330, S400 and SD400). They have always taken great photos, and Canon has truly earned my repeat business (I also had a Digital Rebel and now I have an 20D).

I've had the SD800 for a few days now. Like its predecessors, it takes fantastic photos. The image stabilizer works wonderfully, and the camera functions quite well (and faster than most compact cameras). Other reviewers have spoken about the photo quality, and you can also get detailed technical reviews elsewhere on the internet, so I won't get into that here. What I want to focus on is the functionality of the design of this camera.

Digital Elphs used to be chunks of stainless steel. I dropped my S330 from a 12ft balcony, and it emerged unscathed. This is the first camera I've had that felt like it is going to break at any moment. It is larger and clunkier than the previous generation of Elphs (e.g., it is 36% larger than the SD200/300/400), and feels "plastic-y" and cheap (despite the fact that it looks nice). The buttons are small and offer minimal feedback, so it is easy to press the wrong button, especially if you have large fingers (and even if you have only average fingers). The "mode select" dial switches between Auto, Manual, Scene, Movie and Playback modes, but it is difficult to move. The dial is stiff and has only a small raised ridge on one side, making it difficult to set the dial to the proper mode on the first try. In sum, the design of this camera makes it operation more difficult than necessary; not something I expected from a camera from Canon, espectilly one at this cost.

This camera takes amazing photos, but Canon needs to brush up on their design. For a brief moment I considered returning this camera and keeping my SD400, but this camera's features are too good to pass up. I suppose everyone will get used to the poor design, but for this amount of money, none of us should have to.

Read Best Reviews of Canon PowerShot SD800 IS 7.1MP Digital Elph Camera with 3.8x Wide Angle Image-Stabilized Optical Zo Here

I just spent a good 1/2 hour here reading reviews on the SD800 IS, and didn't agree with many of them so I had to write one myself. I have previously owned Canon's S400, S500 and SD550. I usually pass my previous cameras on to family so I can get the latest and greatest, and once again I am not sorry I did. I am extremely happy with my 800 IS. I quickly charged my battery, then took 60 photos or so using every feature I could find in the camera. Macro, flash, no flash, wide, telephoto, B/W, sepia, vivid, you name it. I couldn't take 1 bad photo even if I tried! I loved the results in all of them. My only complaints were test shots at ASA 800 and up. Yes, those will be very noisy and unusable, but when printed in a 4x6 size how bad will it be, really. Not much worse than film cameras at ASA 400 or 800. How many situations will you find yourself in needing that high an ASA rating? This camera is beautifully built, it looks and feels expensive and I think it's a quality built camera. It is not a tank like my old S400, and it's lighter than the SD550 but it does not feel or look cheap. This is an outstanding small camera. As for soft or blurry edges at the wide angle setting, NONSENSE. I just can't see it in my photos. If you are a previous Canon Digital elph owner and want to upgrade, go for the 800 IS. I picked this one over the 900 because I didn't like the looks of the 900, didn't care for 10 megapixels (when is it enough?), and the 900 did not have the IS feature, which is outstanding on my 800 IS. It really works! I took many photos indoors without flash, hand held and they were unbelievable, with excellent color balance. My flash photos seemed to cover the room just nicely too. I just loved every photo I took today with this camera. So, I don't know what all the whining and bickering is about, but this is one fine piece of camera engineering. As for the battery/SD card cover, yes, it's light and plastic, so open it carefully the way you should handle a $400 camera. There must be many clumsy people out there who break things. I never have, especially with my cameras. So, do I regret giving up my SD550 for this 800 IS? NOT ONE BIT! Both are outstanding cameras. I did a lot of research before forking over the cash for my next camera, and I'm glad it led me again to the Canon line. If you want one, treat yourself. I also hope I have made your selection easier for you. Between my wife and kids, my siblings, my nephews, brothers-in-law, you name it, they all have digital cameras now. We see many crappy photos, but almost never from those who went with the Canon Powershots. What does that tell you?

I have had my camera for more than one month now and I am still very happy with it. My wife has my previous SD550 so I've got the best of both worlds. That SD550 is also a great little camera, so I'm glad we've kept it. It just doesn't have Digic III or the IS feature, but that hasn't been a big issue. What I have now noticed is that for some reason I'm getting more red eye shots with these cameras. I have been taking a lot of photos of my young daughter and her dance class partners, and it seems to be more of a problem with children than adults for some reason. I have read that because of the small camera size, the flash is just too close to the lens and that is the reason. I don't really know but it could be true. I use a software program provided by Kodak Gallery to upload many photos at once, and it fixes that very quickly and easily so it is not a big issue to me. Also, some have written about the white spots that show up on photos. That I believe are dust particles in the air that come out magnified in photos, which is another common thing with these small digital cameras. Remember, at 7.1 MB you will see incredible details in your photos. If you have a digital camera, trying taking shots outdoors at night around a camp fire and you'll see what I mean. As for the round dust spots that show up, I just copy and paste a surrounding area without the spot and paste it over the spot and it's gone. There are many software programs that let you tweak your photos, so it's easy and fun to make corrections, which was virtually impossible with film photos.

Want Canon PowerShot SD800 IS 7.1MP Digital Elph Camera with 3.8x Wide Angle Image-Stabilized Optical Zo Discount?

Sure, there are some legitimate quibbles about the SD800. For example, while generally solid in construction, the USB and video out are hidden behind a remarkably flimsy cover. In fact, when you pull back on the lid, it feels as if the slightest additional force would break it, although so far so good. And, yes, as some reviewers have noted, the mode changing dial might be difficult for someone with clumsy fingers.

You also should know that, while it has a manual mode, this is a not a camera for someone who wants to tweak apertures or shutter speed. It's a point and shoot, after all. That's the category. If you want more, look elsewhere. So, that isn't a complaint. It's just a caveat to those who aren't fully sure what they want out of their camera.

Also, some have complained about the camera being "only" 7.1 mega-pixels. This kind of "insight" doesn't really help when looking at cameras as light, small, and easy as the SD800. Certainly, if you need to make prints bigger than 16 x 20 (after cropping), then perhaps you should be concerned -and ought to be looking a something other than this point-and-click beauty. This camera is about a beautiful form factor, easy portability, and stunning pictures, not making posters.

These points being said, the SD800 is a very special camera. I've owned a number of digital cameras (Fuji, Nikon, and Canon), and checked out way too many cameras before I purchased the SD800. The picture quality is superb--the best I've seen under most conditions. It's incredibly fast on recharge, focus, flash, and picture snapping. It also has a wide-angle lens that grabs enough extra real estate (and people) to make far more stunning pictures than the typical lens on a point-and-shooter. The SD900's lens pales in comparison. I dare you to see for yourself!

As for overall build, this is a solid, virtually all metal camera. Would it survive a 12-foot fall? Maybe not. Few cameras would. My last Nikon broke on a 5-foot fall. That's life. Just keep it on a strap.

This is a great camera. The camera to get, in fact, if you want gorgeous pictures, a great lens, and more features than you can shake a stick at, including amazing optical image stabilization that really works, and software that identifies faces in a shot and makes sure they all look as great as they can.

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Nikon D4 16.2 MP CMOS FX Digital SLR with Full 1080p HD Video (Body Only)

Nikon D4 16.2 MP CMOS FX Digital SLR with Full 1080p HD VideoI pre-ordered this camera, and have now had it for about two months and taken over 10,000 shots with it. I'm upgrading from a Nikon D700. I'm not a pro, but I do occasional commercial jobs. I've updated this review several times, and will continue to do so as needed.

Vertical orientation: Nice. The vertical grip isn't nearly as contoured as the main horizontal grip -there's just not as much stuff to grab your hands onto (no deep pockets for your fingertips). Too bad. But when holding it for any length of time, it's sure a lot easier than holding twisting my arm above my head and rotating the camera. Note that the vertical grip has a programmable button on it, which I use for Mode (A/S/M/P). I understand the D3s didn't have this, which seems crazy -I use it all the time. I wish the vertical grip had all the buttons as the main grip does -e.g., there's only one programmable button, so if you want to use it for Mode, then there's no way to change EV +while vertical, or start taking a movie. Also, I wish the two function buttons (DoF preview, and the one above it) were replicated in vertical mode. They're not, which is silly -there's room right there for them.

I shoot one-handed a lot, at events where I have a flash in one hand an a camera in the other (using a set of PocketWizards). I thought the weight of the D4 would make this harder. But no: when holding it vertically, the D4 is a lot easier to manage than the vertical D700. (I never had a vertical grip for the D700, so I can't compare.) Even holding it horizontally, the larger grip makes it easier to manage the D4 than the D700 one-handedly -it makes the camera honestly feel substantially lighter. One gripe: the vertical joystick for adjusting the focus point is still a bit too much of a stretch to use with one hand.

Shutter: yep, it's 10 fps. Let it rip! Great for capturing faces of both kids and adults at just the right moment.

General ergonomics and build quality: Great. Totally solid.

Weight: Having never had a pro-sized body before, I feared it'd be too heavy. But no: once you throw a 70-200 2.8 on there, the difference between this and a D700 is pretty small, certainly not a big deal. I carry it around on an Op Tech slider strap bolted into the tripod port, plenty stable and strong.

Battery: 2000+ shots (including lots of live view and some movies), and it's down to half. That's plenty of capacity for me. The charger is a real monster to carry around, about 4x the size of a D700 charger, too big to just slip in a pocket. One BIG PROBLEM: after charging it the second time, I had the camera turned on and sitting out overnight. The next morning, the battery was completely dead. I have no idea what happened -the D700 never ever did this to me. Was the camera turned so the AF was being pushed all night? Or is there a bug in the auto-off? No idea, but I'll post if it happens again. (Update: This has now happened to me three times, where the battery has gone from 100% to 0% overnight. Very frustrating. The first time I thought it was because the camera was in my bag and the AF-On button was being pressed, so it was trying to focus all night long. But that's not it, since it was on a shelf the other two times. Since I don't see others who have had this problem, I'm sending it back to Nikon for service.)

[Update: Beats me what the root cause was, but Nikon replaced the logic board and I haven't seen the issue come back.]

Lit up controls: Nikon won't point this out, but they don't *all* light up! Most do, but not the trash, or playback, or EV+-, or Mode, or Live View. Huh? All the buttons on my cell phone lit up 10 years ago. It's not that hard.

XQD card: Fast to write, fast to transfer. I love it. Being able to shoot off dozens of RAWs without stopping is great. Nice of Nikon to include the card and reader (but really, I'm not sure they had any other option here -the market isn't exactly flooded with these cards).

Live View: Works a million times better than it did on the D700. It's kind of funny though: it now makes the pro-DSLR able to shoot as easily as a $200 point-and-shoot. But whatever: Live View is nice to have. It's fast and intuitive. One advantage that isn't obvious: you can use it to set the focus point to the far corners of the frame, well outside the small area of the sensor covered by the 51-point AF grid. How I wish Nikon would allow the main AF system to focus in the far corners too: those 51 points still only cover about 20% of the camera's full frame! More in DX mode, but come on, Nikon. This is probably my single biggest complaint about the camera (or any DSLR) -bigger focus area please!

Focus modes: I was initially bummed to see that the three-position focus-mode switches from the D700 had been removed, replaced by 'software' settings using the main control wheels. But after using them I'm fine with the change, even in favor of it. The number of focus modes has increased (because you can change between 9-, 21-, and 51-point tracking easily now, which were hidden in a menu before), and the design works pretty fast. Disadvantage is that it requires two hands to change modes, where you used to do it with one.

The built-in AF motor is noticeably faster than on the D700. Live View mode uses contrast-detection focusing which was ultra-slow on the D700 (especially using motor-driven lenses like the AF-D's), but pretty usable now.

Face Detection (in Live View) works great. It's super easy to get low-angle shots holding the camera away from your body. If the subject moves you'll see a green box on the LCD follow the face around -it's pretty cool to watch it track.

Believe it or not, Face Detection also works through the pentaprism viewfinder. It took me awhile to believe this, but it really does. I proved it to myself by displaying a photo of a face on my laptop's screen, and focusing the camera on it. And like magic, no matter where it was, the focus indicators would lock on to the eyes. If I panned so that one eye left the FOV, then the focus would jump to the other eye. This is really cool. However, in reality it only works moderately well... I mean, if you're shooting at 24 mm in a busy room, and there's a few people in front of you, the camera is likely to focus on the wall instead of the people. Switch to Live View and it'll lock right on to the faces. Switch back and it jumps to the wall. My thought is that when using the viewfinder, the camera is dong face-detection on the smaller 91,000-pixel metering array. When using Live View, it can use millions of pixels from the main chip. Small faces can get hidden in 91,000 pixels (that's sub-VGA resolution!), but are seen in the big chip. I'm not knocking it, since it's clearly state-of-the art... it's just not perfect.

One cool thing about face detection is that it also finds faces on playback (even if face detection wasn't used on that shot). Scroll the front control wheel and it'll zoom in to just the face on every image, so you can easily check focus on the parts you care about. Super.

Metering modes: Too bad that the three-position metering switch is now an electronic controller, set in the viewfinder. But it turns out to be no big deal, because the metering on the D4 is really an improvement from the D700. I used to have to go to spot metering a lot for faces in the shade, and the auto face-detection now catches that so much better than it used to, that I haven't been using spot metering very much. Really, the new metering is very, very good. It has its quirks though: like, let's say you're taking 10 shots in a row of someone's face. If on one shot they turn or are blocked and the face-recognition doesn't work right, then that shot is likely to be underexposed by a stop relative to the rest in the series (see my example photo of this posted on Amazon). In the end underor over-exposure by a stop or two is no big deal on this camera if you're shooting RAW, because the files give you tons of leeway to work with to fix the exposure in post. But it's always best to get the exposure right the first time, and the D4 does a better job of that than the D700.

'Quiet' and 'Silent' modes. Quiet mode is indeed a lot quieter than the regular shutter. It seems to move all the mechanical parts slower -so you hear it for longer, but it's definitely quieter. Limited to 1 fps or so, and it doesn't work in Continuous mode (except if you're in Live View, in which case it does). Silent mode takes 2 MP shots in Live View mode (essentially movie stills shutter must be between 1/30 and 1/125 sec, and JPEG-only, no RAW). I could see using it occasionally, though I wish the resolution were higher. Also, in order to *enter* Silent mode, you have to be in Live View, and you have to pull up the mirror to do that, which makes the normal 'chunking' sound one time. An interesting note: in Silent mode, the exposure counter increments like normal (DSC_0101, 0102, etc.), but the EXIF value for 'Shutter Count' stays unchanged, just like it should. ** Silent mode is exclusive to the D4, and isn't on the D800.

Image quality: Beautiful... really crisp and sharp and smooth. The D700 was great too. For some reason this looks better. The number of pixels and the ISO are only slightly improved from the D700... the improvement to my image quality is dramatically better, more than the one or two stop improvement would suggest. Maybe Nikon's color processing software's improved, who knows what. But I didn't expect much improvement in image quality, and I got it.

ISO: It's a stop or two better than the D700. The ultra-high ISO's (like 200,000+ = H4.0) are there, but pretty silly. Even in bright sun, they're so full of noise so as to be useless. In low light they're even worse. (I guess you could use H4.0 if you were trying to monitor license plates of speeding vehicles under moonlight, or something crazy like that... but no normal photographic application is going to use that.) Up to ISO 10,000 or so, images are very clean. Focusing works really well in low-light, better than the D700 for sure. A nice change is that Auto ISO can now be easily turned on/off by holding ISO and rotating the front control knob -no more going into the menus.

One big change to exposure calculation is that the shutter speed can now be set based on the focal length. In the past, you'd set it (in the Auto ISO menu) to use a minimum of say 1/30 sec, which is great at 24 mm, but not what you want at 70 mm. OK, terrific -I was really stoked on this, since it makes a lot of sense and is more accurate in setting the shutter speed. But there's a huge problem in how it's implemented, in that it's blind to whether you're using a VR lens! So if I'm at 200 mm, it'll pick 1/400th sec for me. But I paid the big bucks for the VR lens so I don't have to shoot at 1/400th... I know I can handhold it just fine at 1/50th. The net effect here is that you'll end up shooting at a higher-than-necessary shutter speed, putting you into high-ISO territory, when you'd be otherwise safe to shoot much slower at low ISO. Alas -maybe Nikon will get this right with the D5. I ended up turning off this focal-length sensitivity setting, and telling it to shoot at 1/100th or faster regardless.

Ethernet connection: Plug in a cable, and the camera has a built-in web server, for doing tethered shooting. Not something I'll use much, but it seems to work. No additional software needed -just a web browser. I also used it for tethered shooting through Aperture straight out of the box, and it worked fine, no new drivers needed.

Auto white balance: as advertised, seems to work better than before. No big deal, but a nice bonus. One weirdness though is that the white balance seems to be less consistent than it was before. For instance, shooting outside in the shade, in the past I could set the right WB correction in Aperture and it'd be right-on for every shot in the series. No more -a good number of individual shots require more hand-tweaking now. This seems like a bug, like maybe the RAW files are getting tagged with the wrong color temp. It could well also be a bug in Aperture's handling of the D4 RAWs; I haven't tried it with Lightroom yet. A bonus with

Display: Better than before. Not really a big deal to me. Minor point: the display itself is polarized such that if you're wearing your polarized Ray Bans, the screen will look dark until you turn it to vertical mode. The D700 was polarized, but at a 45 degree angle, so it was still visible in horizontal mode. The display has a really viewing angle, meaning that if you hold it overhead in Live View, you can glance up at it and at least get *some* sense of how your framing is, even viewing the display nearly edge-on. It doesn't pivot of course, but it's definitely usable for a lot of overhead shots.

[** Update: Nikon replaced the main display for me when mine failed. The new one is different, and is viewable in landscape mode while wearing polarized shades. I doubt it was an intentional change on their part, but for me it worked out as a minor bonus!]

Viewfinder: The image looks a bit bigger and fuller than on the D700. Not that big a deal -I could always see my subject just fine before. Maybe a bit less squinting necessary now.

Extra configurability: Nikon now lets you reprogram even more of the buttons than the D700 allowed. I like one of the options in particular: I've set the Fn button (below the DoF preview button, next to the lens mount) to go to image review. Normally it takes two hands to hit the image-review button, but now I can do it quickly and using the right hand that's already on the camera anyhow. Just one more thing I miss now going back to the D700.

HDR, timelapse, multiple-exposures: they all work as advertised. Probably won't use them much.

Video: I'm not a video shooter but I tried it out outside under streetlights, where the video was super-clean. Inside with a night light it was a total failure at high ISO's -too much noise to see anything at all. Others know a lot more about video than me, so read their reviews instead.

Minor operational change: On the D700, the control wheels went dead right after taking a shot, requiring a half-press to wake up the metering system again, if you used the control wheels to select through images. On the D4, they stay live after the shutter press. Awesome. This was always a minor annoyance before, and I'm glad it's changed. It's hidden on an obscure setting within Custom F10.

Flash: There is none. Occasionally I used CLS for remote triggers on the D700 and you obviously can't do that any more. And sometimes I don't want to carry around the PocketWizards for just a snapshot flash-fill. Oh well -can't have it all. For what it's worth, the PocketWizards (TT5's) work perfectly, no problems at all. I called up the PW people about an unrelated issue and they confirmed to me (as of June 2012) that the PW's work great on the D4... not working yet on the D800/800E, they said.

Flash exposure: The EV+and the Flash EV are now separated. It use to be that lowering the camera EV would also lower the flash output (so dropping the background while keeping the subject lit would require two sync'd setting changes). No more. Nikon took after Canon here, good to see. This stuff works fine with the PW's. ** This Flash EV setting (custom e5) is exclusive to the D4. It's not on the D800.

Reviewing images: You can zoom out to see 72 images at a time, and use the joystick to cruise around these. But regardless of all of the image-processing power onboard, it's still frustratingly slow to scroll backward by 500 or 1000 images. There's apparently no in-camera buffering of the thumbnails -they're reloaded from the card every time, so it may still take you a few minutes of slow scrolling to find that cool shot from a few days ago that you want to show someone.

Manual: 456 frikkin' pages. I like camera manuals and this one's pretty well written. It's not literature but it explains the settings clearly enough.

Why not the D800? 50 MB images are too big for me, and I'm not going to be printing any banners or posters from my work anyhow. Almost everything I do goes online. Virtually any camera has enough resolution for me. I'm more interested in handling / ergonomics / ISO / dynamic range / speed, than resolution. If I was doing landscapes instead of people, I'd of course go for the D800 instead.

Is six thousand bucks too much to spend on a camera? Probably. But Nikon bodies remain in high demand, and used prices are high. I can likely sell this in a year or two for not much less than I paid for it. (My three-year-old D700 has only lost 1/3 of its value since it was new, or about a thousand dollars over three years.) Is having a camera like that worth a dollar or two a day to me? Absolutely.

P.S. I'll answer any questions below. And if you found this useful, feel free to click and tell me so!

[Update June 2013. 45,000 pics and one year later, it remains awesome. I only have a few frustrations and minor things to add:

o I wish the front buttons -Function and Preview -were more programmable, and I wish Nikon put a duplicate set you could reach in vertical mode.

o I prefer the analog buttons to change exposure mode on the D700, over the menu here.

o I don't use Live View very much -it's just so much slower than viewfinder mode that even though focus on a face in the corner very nicely, I can usually do it myself faster.

o Don't mind the weight at all. Feels great in the hand. I use an OpTech slider strap into an arca-swiss knockoff plate bolted into the bottom.

o I use 10 fps *all the time*. On safari, with kids, anything. It's wonderful.

o XQD card is great, though I wish there was a good way to take advantage of its speed to download to my older Mac, which only has a USB2 and not USB3.

o Nikon replaced the main logic board after I reported problems with the battery suddenly dying overnight. No problems since then.

o I wish the 51 focus points went further across the FOV -they're all clustered at the center.

o I'm not a big bird shooter but I have been amazed at how well the focus tracking will follow a bird who moves in & out of the frame, well away from the original focus point.

o Picture quality is just great. I get a ton of keepers, and when I don't, it's always my fault and not the camera's.

I managed to drop the camera -8 inches onto carpet with an 85/1.4 on -and it knocked the camera completely out of focus, and apparently knocked the main display loose so it flickered a lot. (So much for indestructibility of a pro body...) I sent it back to Nikon explaining the situation, and they were nice enough to fix it for free, which involved replacing the front bayonet mount. But the camera spent *nearly two months at Nikon* to get fixed! It was on "parts hold" for over a month, and when they returned it, they sent to to the wrong address to boot -an old address of mine.]

I have been using the D4 since the middle of March.

I am a professional sports photographer, so I am shooting two games a day during the week and sometimes four or five games over a weekend. I shoot a lot.

The D4 is an upgrade from my D3. I skipped the D3s, which I understand is a strong performer as well.

The D4 excels in a couple of very critical areas for me. The first is low level shooting. With the D4 I will no longer have to light grungy, dank, dark college gyms for basketball and swimming. The camera shoots very usable JPEGs at 10,000 ISO. This is remarkable. Very little noise, and if you are not shooting to make huge prints, the noise is hardly noticeable. I am sure the NEF files at that size are workable as well. I tend to stay away from the highest ISO ratings, only because I haven't needed them.

I cannot wait for fall night football games as the combination of high ISO and a 2.8 lens will be perfect.

The auto focus on this camera is amazing. The D3 was good. The D4 is great. The combination of this with a 200-400 AFS Zoom is just heaven. I've gotten more, better and great shots since I got this camera than in the whole season before it. My clients have noticed it and commented. Very impressive.

The white balance is much better than the older models. It gives you a true color and needs little tweaking. But if you need to tweak--it can do that too.

A lot of people will complain about the XQD card. I wont. It is fast. When you stick that card in, with the camera set at JPEG Fine, you have about 71 images in your "burst." Why you would ever use 71 images at once is beyond me, but they are there. For example, I shot a lacrosse championship game the other day. It went into two overtimes. I was able to shoot the action going into the final shot--and then shoot a stream of jubilation shots without missing a beat. That would have consumed all of the memory of the D3. Yes, the cards are expensive, but if you shoot raw, you are going to need the space.

The battery is new, having to meet new Japanese standards. But, I've gotten nearly 4,000 shots out of it before seeing the low battery light come on.

I am not used to the Video yet, so I cannot comment on it too much. I need to work out the bugs and give that a shot before the fall sports season starts. As my clients evolve in their media savvy, I am sure that an ability to shoot short video clips of their games will come in very handy. I need every competitive edge I can get these days.

All in all, this camera is everything a pro would want: High quality, innovative, fast, big, weather sealed, and backwards compatible with my equipment. The D3s will give it a run for low level light shooting, but if you are moving up from a D2 or D3, the bells and whistles make this worth every dime.

Buy Nikon D4 16.2 MP CMOS FX Digital SLR with Full 1080p HD Video (Body Only) Now

This will be an ongoing product review and something I will be updating as time goes on.

Ordering from Amazon -

As soon as I saw the news on nikonrumors.com that amazon had opened up the website for D4 orders, I placed mine. Thank you nikonrumors! This was January 6th. Since then, Amazon sent their usual emails informing me that the product was backordered and such. The only problem was amazon.com kept listing March 20th as the release date and March 21st as my "Estimated Shipping Date". Of course this didn't happen. In fact, at least for those that watch dpreview.com, this happened to all amazon.com D4 orders. The only bummer about the whole ordering experience was that the Amazon customer service was pretty much useless and uninformed. In the future, amazon should be quicker to correct their release dates. At least I got the camera..moving on...

Camera shipping from Amazon -

In the past I have been contacted by Amazon concierge to make sure my order was going smoothly. DIdn't happen with the D4. Not a big deal. Camera shipped next day UPS Saver on March 28 and arrived March 29th just past 5pm. Shipped was free due to the release date screw ups. Camera was boxed OK..and it did the job. I would have packed it better..but it arrived ok. Signature required.

D4 contents -

Good news here! The D4 came with the Sony XQS Card Reader and one 16 gig Sony XQS card. Very cool considering my 32 gig order is still pending. The Card reader and card were in a white envelope placed on top of the camera contents.

Additional contents -

1x EN-EL18 battery

MH-26 Battery charger (charges 2 batteries)

Instructions in both Spanish & English

Warranty Programs

Nikon ViewNX2

Strap

USB cable

Caps body, hotshot

Clips USB & body

UF1 & UF2 connectors

D4 Specs (and compared to the D3s) -

Weight 41.6 oz (D3s 43.7 oz) (Weight difference is noticeable!)

Pixels 16.2 million (D3s 12.1)

FPS 10/11 (D3s 9 FPS)

ISO 100 12,800 with lo-1 as 50, HI-4 as 204,800 (D3s 200 12,800, Lo-1 100, HI-3 102,400)

Video Full 1080 HD up to 30 FPS (D3s 720 at 24 FPS)

Monitor size 3.2 inches (D3s 3.0)

Viewfinder 100%

Integrated network port

D4 camera (first impressions) -

Ergonomics & Buttons WOW a lot has changed here. If you are coming from a D3s like me, all sorts of little changes mean some big adjustments. Here is my list of just what I've found so far -

Metering selector is gone!!! It used to be on the prism and adjusted with your right thumb. Not any more! It is now replacing the "Lock" button and press with your left hand and adjusted INSIDE the viewfinder.

Focus Mode Selector Gone too! The button to toggle between manual and autofocus is still there, but to toggle between C & S is now inside the view finder

Hand grip is different for both portrait and landscape photos including a small black piece of rubber attached near the camera bottom

The camera back Just looking at the back of the camera has sent me back to the full manual to learn this camera from the beginning. This includes changes to the thumbnails, picture control, and playback buttons and removal of the Area AF mode selector button.

Overall I like the changes, and love the ability to see changes inside the viewfinder. Might be a while to get my fingers to adapt. Overall it's good.

New D4 Network capabilities -

New to the D4, the camera can do FTP photo and movie uploads, control camera functions from a laptop using an optional software package (Caera Control Pro 2), and take pictures using an iPhone and remote browser. You can also control multiple cameras and do synchronized releases using the WT-5.

New D4 Chips & Batteries -

The battery and XQS memory chips are new to the D4. This means having to spend more money to buy new stuff as opposed to those that upgraded from the D3 to D3s. Sure it is good for the long term, but is a bit of a pain right now. If you shoot any other camera as well, then you will need to lug about two battery charges. If you don't have a backup camera, you will still need two sets of chips.

Shooting the D4 -

Quiet shutter option. There is a new shutter setting for a quiet shutter. This is on the command dial next to the high speed shutter release.

a bump up in FPS is subtle, but nice. I have yet to fully test this, but for shooting motor sports, I like it

Viewfinder is now 100% and nothing to dislike about this!

The virtual horizon is now inside the viewfinder! I constantly have to correct my pictures and love this feature. This is used by setting the Fn button in the menu to use the virtual horizon feature. The horizon only works when holding the camera normally not vertical. Still...great feature and I love it.

ISO -

The D4 takes pushing up the ISO beyond the D3s. But the difference is minimal as far as I can tell.

Overall (so far) D4 is every bit as good as the D3s and then some. The upgrades to the buttons are annoying, but I think will really be more useful in the field than the D3s version. The new chips and batteries are just progress in my mind. Not a big deal, just a little more money that has to be spent. I've only had this camera one day (and one night) and plan to add to this as I hit up some car races and concours...

Read Best Reviews of Nikon D4 16.2 MP CMOS FX Digital SLR with Full 1080p HD Video (Body Only) Here

Got one of the first ones out based on the glowing reviews and being an owner of several Nikon dSLR bodies; from the D70 up through the D3x/s cameras.

This takes the best of all of them and puts them in one body. The D4 relies heavily on the control dials, and most are intuitive. Spo changing settings can be done quickly.

Take the exceptional resolution of the D3x and add the superb low light performance of the D3s; then make it all faster and better, and you have a D4.

I was worried that I would feel "eh" about this camera, but my reaction is far from that. If you have some good Nikkor glass, or want to start at the pinnacle of digital photography for under $10,000, the D4 meets your needs with aplomb.

I may be poorer, but am delighted with this purchase.

note: I would have bought from Amazon, but they weren't expecting stock, so I went with a reliable authorized dealer. I like buying from Amazon though as they are very generous with returns should a problem exist; and even with $6,000 bodies, problems do crop up, even when new.

If you want your photos to be as good as they can be, and can afford the entry fee, this is the camera

If $6,000 is too much and speed is not crucial, the D800 or D800e probably do nicely at half the cost.

Remember this is a FX format, so no multiplying focal lengths by 1.5x. The sensor is the size of a 35mm negative.

Focusing is also faster on the D4. It's all good.

Delighted with this purchase

(D700, D3s, and D3x for sale. Used. Perfect condition)

Want Nikon D4 16.2 MP CMOS FX Digital SLR with Full 1080p HD Video (Body Only) Discount?

I'm a non-professional, photo enthusiast who shoots about 15K photos a year, mostly travel photography. I upgraded from a D300 mainly because of it's inability to capture my then 15 month old son who had starting walking. The D4 changed all that in the sense that I now have literally thousands of perfectly focused photos of my son crawling, climbing, jumping, running and yes falling; all in a 3 month time span. That to me is worth $6K and my wife agrees. The dynamic range and skin tone are excellent. On the D300, I would have to do a 5 shot bracket to have a nice HDR blend for landscape shooting. With the D4, the recovery in the shadows are so awesome especially with the newer Lightroom 4 software that I can often get away with one shot (-1 EV) and it'll look 90% as good as a 5 shot blend from the D300.

And of course, it's very durable. I have taken it to extreme humidity and heat and it has functioned beautiful. Never locked up at all so I haven't even needed to update the fireware. I'm currently in the 19K shutter actuation range and have recharged the batteries four times. Note though that I don't use video or Live View heavily.

Will it make you a better photographer? Likely not, I showed my wife pictures from our Montreal trip three years ago taken with the D300 and 18-200 VR1, and compared them to our recent Asia trip taken with the D4 and 24-70mm lens. She said my skill level has changed but the subject and content are pretty much similar.

In one word, the D4 is a MACHINE. Responsive. Accurate. Fast. From the D300 to the D4, it's like going from a 150 hp minivan to a 500 HP Porsche 911 turbo.

Save $2.05 Off

Monday, June 30, 2014

VicTsing Dock to HDMI AV Cable Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPad 1 2 New iPad (1080P)

VicTsing Dock to HDMI AV Cable Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPad 1 2 New iPadI bought this cable as part of my continuing quest to "cut the cord". I still have unlimited data on my iphone and I like to watch Netflix and Hulu when I am on the road. I paid $21.99 for this product on Dec 1; it arrived Dec 21. It says shipped from Hong Kong but the return address was GuangDong province. It works exactly as described. I chose this cable because I wanted 30 pin to HDMI and I did not want 30 pin to USB and have to buy a second cable/converter.

Another reason to buy this is even though we have AppleTV, every time Apple updates the system software, their planned obsolescence kicks in and the Airplay feature stops working until the apps developers scramble to make their apps compatible. (Since I ordered this cable, France24 has started working again on Airplay.) (Netflix has always been on AppleTV and Hulu has been for a few months now. No AmazonVideo nor Pandora, yet.)

I also ordered this cable because it was a lot cheaper than what Apple was offering for the same job. However, with the rise in price, that may no longer be so true.

The cable works as promised. It does NOT mirror the iphone or ipad screen. However, when playing Netflix, Hulu, France24, etc, the video comes through fine. My TV is 1080p and says that the video is playing at 720p. I think that is the app and Netflix, not the cable. I give this product a less than perfect rating because the 30 pin plug is too chunky to fit in my iphone's Otter box, so I have to remove the case.

This cable works just as intended. Some apps allow 1080p, others don't. Like say your videos and Netflix will play in full screen but most apps just mirror the Ipad aspect ratio. So I can't dis the cable when it's really apple that sucks.

Buy VicTsing Dock to HDMI AV Cable Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPad 1 2 New iPad (1080P) Now

I had other cables before and they only play ceartain videos from my Iphone this cable plays pretty much anything that is display on my Iphone screen. which it is fantastic. It will not play those videos that you transfer to your Iphone using Itunes. Best when connected directly to your TV.

Read Best Reviews of VicTsing Dock to HDMI AV Cable Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPad 1 2 New iPad (1080P) Here

Cable works as advertised. Cost was reasonable and shipped quickly. I'll do business with these guys again if they have something I need.

Want VicTsing Dock to HDMI AV Cable Adapter for iPhone 4 4S iPad 1 2 New iPad (1080P) Discount?

Now I can watch movies on Netflix , videos on YouTube and listen to my music in my 60 inch HDTV ..and works with my iPhone4 too ...love it ..I definitely recommend it to anybody with the iPads and iphones.

Save 56% Off

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Fujifilm FinePix S2700 18x Wide Angle Zoom 12 MP Digital Camera(S2550 Retail Edition)

Fujifilm FinePix S2700 18x Wide Angle Zoom 12 MP Digital Camera(S2550 Retail Edition)It is a beautiful camera, small and lightweight. It makes a nice sound when taking pictures. I shot a series of pictures and compared them to a 5 year old 5 mp camera. With no exceptions, this camera took poorer quality pictures. All were grainy and darker. Indoor pictures were especially poor. I believe that the very small lens and poor optics do not allow for good quality pictures to be taken. Zoom pictures were very poor. I returned the camera. Sorry.

This camera was purchased as an extra version of a camera we already own and like. The pixel level is higher than the previous model, but is the same otherwise. We have been very happy with it so far.

Buy Fujifilm FinePix S2700 18x Wide Angle Zoom 12 MP Digital Camera(S2550 Retail Edition) Now

I bought this product for $200.00 from best buy i was happy with the res and the zoom on the camera for the price. after about 6 months and 150-200 pics later it started to say card error to the point the camera simply wouldnt work any more just a orange screen tryed differt cards ate 3 SD cards . I did not do any thing to it, infact i worked in a camera shop for a year and a half. Maybe it was just mine that was crap camera. i will not ever buy a fuji film camera again but i will say that while it worked i was happy with the photo quilty but to think a spent over $1 per photo and i only have about 10 photos that are keepers that sucks.

Read Best Reviews of Fujifilm FinePix S2700 18x Wide Angle Zoom 12 MP Digital Camera(S2550 Retail Edition) Here

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Foscam FI8910W White Wireless IP Cameras 2-pack

Foscam FI8910W White Wireless IP Cameras 2-packI bought a single FI8910W to test it out and then followed up with this bundle. I tried everything from TrendNet to Panasonic and other, less known brands. Panasonics are great, but way too expensive. Foscam does everything I need it to do for a fraction of the price. I am also planning on getting their exterior cameras as well. Easy to set up and use, they come with mounting hardware. I use all my cameras in the house (4) via a wireless connection and never an issue in speed or reliabily. One issue that I am noticing is that once in a while the camera will reset itself and I find it pointing up in he ceiling. Fortunately their iPod/iPad/iPhone software is great and I can point the camera where I need from anywhere in the world. Don't get me wrong, these are not the best cameras on he market and I am hesitant to give any product 5 stars, but for the price, you simply cannot do any better.

The video quality is really good. I've showed it to a couple people who have immediately purchased it after seeing the quality and features at such a low price.

The iPhone app is also great and takes advantage of all the features of the cameras (was more than worth the additional 5.99)

Just keep in mind that 'wireless' means you don't have to have network cables attached to it, and not that you don't have to still plug them into a wall socket for power.

Buy Foscam FI8910W White Wireless IP Cameras 2-pack Now

This is an outstanding product. Networked to my wireless router, the remote tilt/pan camera allows me to keep in touch with my "kids" (two Shih Tzus) that must remain locked in my kitchen while I am at work. It's great to be able to actually "talk" to them via the built-in speaker/mic via my iPhone. Picture quality is excellent on the iPhone. Not so great on a big screen, but what do you want for a 100 bucks!

Read Best Reviews of Foscam FI8910W White Wireless IP Cameras 2-pack Here

I was a little hesitant at first to purchase "budget" wireless IP cameras, as I've heard/read many horror stories, and noticed there are some people on Amazon remarking that many of the positive Foscam reviews are bogus. But I decided to take a chance on these, after reading a favorable tech review.

So far, I've found that the cameras are easy to setup, and work pretty much as advertised. My home network setup consists of a DSL gateway modem, a Linksys main router, and 2 Linksys bridge-repeaters (created from older wireless routers), all flashed with DD-WRT.

There is a small trick or two that you need to keep in mind during setup, and knowing this can make the process much less frustrating. Here are some tips, less all the excruciating detail, which you might find useful:

1. Plug the camera into your ROUTER using an ethernet patch cable do NOT plug it into your desktop or laptop computer.

2. Install the IP Camera tool from the included disk or download it from the Foscam site () FIRST! There are versions for Windows and Mac.

3. Start the IP Camera tool, give it a few moments, and it should find the camera. Click the link in the popup window, and your admin screen to the camera interface should load in a browser.

4. From here you can setup the features of your camera. I found that one easy way is to use the UPnP (universal plug and play). This worked very well for me. Using UPnP, should aid in identifying your camera to your router.

5. I don't see any reason why you should NOT set a static *internal* IP address, and I think the DHCP option is kind of ridiculous. Having a static internal IP will allow you to ALWAYS find your Foscams when connected to your home network make a bookmark. With DHCP, these internal IP numbers can change.

6. If you are installing the two camera (or more) set, decide on unique PORT NUMBERS for each camera. You will be connecting remotely to your home network through a single IP address (a public, external one), so having a port number for each will make it easier to connect to the right camera and for forwarding.

7. Port forwarding I think a lot of people get confused on this step, but it is essential if you want to operate and view the cameras from outside your home or business. On my setup, I did forwarding for the relevant camera ports I selected on my DSL gateway, and main router. Doing the same on repeaters will probably be a good idea as well, if you have them.

8. Once you *think* you have the ports forwarded correctly, use an online tool like "canyouseeme" () to verify. Basically, navigate to the site with your web browser while on your home or business network, and it will pre-populate the IP address field of your home network (the external public one) in the correct field. Enter each port number and hit the test button. This will tell you if the port is truly open.

9. When you test your camera for internal network viewing (using the internal IP address you setup in the beginning), remember to concatenate the port numbers for each camera. So if your camera's internal IPs are something like 192.168.0.2 and 192.168.0.3, with port numbers of 8090 and 8091 respectively, you would enter: 192.168.0.2:8090 and 192.168.0.3:8091 in your browser URL bar.

10. For testing REMOTE camera operation, don't try to do it inside your home network, as it will probably hang on you, since you are coming FROM the same IP address your are trying to connect TO. Use a connection outside your home using the external IP address (determined from canyouseeme or other), with the port numbers concatenated onto the end for each respective camera. OR, if you have something like a VPN, connect to that, so the address you are coming FROM is different than your actual home IP address.

PROS:

Good picture, reliable panning motion, decent reception and range, IR for night vision, presets (excellent), included mounting arm/bracket, and price.

CONS:

No zoom or built in record functionality in the included software.

Overall, I think this is a really nice setup for the price, and should tick the boxes for the average person.

No zoom

Update #1: I've been using two of these for about 3 months now, and they still haven't disappointed me. I purchased the Blue Iris software package from Foscam LCC here on Amazon, and that is by far the best solution for multi-camera real-time monitoring, as well as recording. Mine are setup to record short clips based on motion, and they have been working pretty much flawlessly. We decided to expand our security and I was happy enough to order a second set of two.

Want Foscam FI8910W White Wireless IP Cameras 2-pack Discount?

Camera itself works as expected while on a 10baseT connection.

wireless did not work at all.

turns out its a known issue with latest firmware version. research on the web revealed numerous customers with same issue.

after a week of not hearing back from their support I had no choice but to return the set.

How can product be release without a basic QA feature test???

that is enough for me to not recommend this product.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Nikon D3100 Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm & 55-200mm DX AF-S Zoom Lens with 32GB Card + Filte

Nikon D3100 Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm & 55-200mm DX AF-S Zoom Lens with 32GB Card + Filters + Case + Accessory KitI AM AN EXPERT ON CAMERAS BUT I CAN TELL YOU THAT THE QUALITY OF THE PICTURES THIS CAMERA TAKES ARE JUST WONDERFUL!. IT IS EASY TO SET UP, THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE CONCISE AND CLEAR AND THE PRODUCT IS ANOTHER EXCELLENT PIECE OF ART FROM NIKON

Saturday, February 15, 2014

Nikon D3000 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens

Nikon D3000 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom LensLooking over several cameras and choosing one for someone who has outgrown point and shoots, I came back to the Nikon D3000. By no means will this model blow away the seasoned photographer, however it does cover the basics and more. We picked it up and tried it out over the weekend.

First time DSLR users will enjoy the Guide Mode. It literally walked us through different shoot scenarios via the fixed 3" LCD screen. An excellent tool, its step by step instructions allowed my niece to move from the operating booklet in no time. After a few more runs, I am sure that she will feel quite comfortable shooting in the manual mode. The quick shutter release was a nice surprise.

Upon completing two days of shooting with the Nikon D3000, I walked away impressed. In manual mode, indoor shots were a balanced and perfect mix of shadow and color. As usual with shooting in low light, noise will make an appearance. However this system can be tweaked to deliver some outstanding indoor photographs. The bottom line is proper settings.

A basic fix is the VR (Vibration Reduction) feature located on the lens. This should be activated, especially indoors. A tripod will certainly help. In auto mode, just set the camera to night portrait and sit back and enjoy the rest of your flight.

Outdoor shots were vibrant, sharp and rich in color without editing. The onboard flash system was more than capable in meeting fill flash requirements. Without a doubt the overall performance of the camera, features and image quality is excellent.

With 10.2 megapixels to work with, I easily blew up a personal favorite my niece had taken to 16" x 20". Even though I don't see myself trading in my Nikon D300 for this model anytime soon, this camera is by far an upgrade over any of the souped up point and shoots out there.

Its easy to see that the real jewel in this model is the auto focus system. With six auto mode settings (Landscape, Sports, Child, Closeups, Portrait, and Night Portrait) each and every photograph can be a keeper. Onboard editing tweakers won't be disappointed with this model. It covers the basics. The D3000 operates with both SD & SDHC cards.

The Nikon D3000 is paired with a Nikkor 18-55mm AF-S DX lens. It will operate with any Nikkor DX and AF-S lens. Older Nikkor or similar AF lens is a no go when shooting in auto but will function in manual mode. Since this model is not fitted with the built in optical image stabilizer, I recommend switching on the Vibration Reduction (VR) feature located on the lens. Still the best anti vibration tool is a tripod.

Nikon makes it really simple with a thumb dial for tweaking aperture and shutter speed. Metering, focus modes, and exposure compensation are easily controlled via the menu. The D3000 does not shoot in video mode. This model easily shoots over three frames per second in continuous mode. The 3D tracking sensor operates quite well in low lighting.

The Nikon D3000 camera kit comes packaged with a EN/EL3e Li-ion battery, charger, USB cable, video cable. strap, eye cap, eye cup, software CD-ROM, 18-55mm Nikkor lens, lens cap, instruction booklet and a one year Nikon warranty.

Coming out of the gate, I still find this model a little pricey for a basic DSLR. I am sure heading into the fall and holidays buyers will begin to see a noticeable price drop. Even so, the D3000 is a fine tuned replacement for the immensely popular entry level Nikon D40. Newcomers to the DSLR community will certainly enjoy this outstanding alternative.

I am a photography teacher in NYC and online. (See my Amazon profile for my website.) I teach beginner and intermediate photography students every week. I've also been a professional photographer for the last five years with images published in The New York Times, GQ, New York Magazine, Women's Wear Daily, The New York Observer, The Village Voice and Time Out New York.

(This review is for beginner photographers.)

If you're a beginner, you're most likely asking yourself: Nikon or Canon? Really, I feel confident in saying that you can't go wrong with either. I've used both brand's cameras extensively and find that they both offer amazing image quality with well-built, solid cameras that, if taken care of, will last decades. There are two differences between the cameras, though, that can be taken into consideration.

The user-interface: If cameras were computers, Nikons would be PCs and Canons would be MACs. PCs are built for people not afraid of technology whereas Macs are built for people who want things super-easy. Nikons excel at customization options which means you'll see so many more options with the Advanced features of a Nikon than you will with a Canon. Canons, on the other hand, excel at ease-of-use for beginners. Canons offer less advanced options and can be easier to learn on. This can be frustrating down the line, though, once you've learned a lot about photography. At that point you may want all of the options that Nikon offers and be frustrated with your Canon. If you're someone who really likes to delve deep into your hobbies or if you're intent on becoming a professional photographer, I'd say a Nikon would be your best bet. If you're someone who wants to learn the basics of photography and only imagine yourself being a hobbyist, Canon would be a better option for you.

Where Nikon excels: Flash photography. I often find myself in situations where I'm shooting event photography (weddings, movie premiers, benefits and galas) where I need to use a lot of flash. For this kind of photography, I'll always prefer to be shooting with a Nikon. Nikon's flash metering (how the camera magically decides how much light to fire out of the flash) is much more consistent than Canon's. You can take a Canon and shoot the same scene three times in a row with flash and all three images will be at different brightness levels. You can do the same thing with a Nikon and all three images will be wonderfully the same. If you're somebody who plans on shooting a lot with flash (indoor photography, event photography, etc.) you'll want to consider going with Nikon.

Where Canon excels: Richness of colors. I've been in numerous situations where I've been on the red carpet taking the exact same picture as the photographer next to me. I'll have a Canon and the person next to me will have a Nikon. This has provided quite a few opportunities to compare the images side-by-side. What I've found is that the colors on the Canon's images look richer and make the image pop more. If I'm doing fine art photography (anything I'd like to someday hang in a gallery), I'll always want to be shooting with a Canon for this reason.

If you're set on Nikon, there are three cameras you should be considering and it all comes down to what your budget is:

D7000 $1,400 without lens

D5100 $750 without lens

D3100 $600 only available with lens

(current prices as of 2/19/11)

Since you're on the D3000 Amazon page, though, I'm going to guess that you're considering the D3000 which Amazon is currently selling for $530 (with lens). If you're considering buying the D3000 because you didn't realize that Nikon has replaced it with a new camera model (the D3100), then you may want to go straight for the new model, depending on your budget. If you were already aware that Nikon has a newer model and are still considering the D3000 then here's how the D3000 stacks up to the D3100. (The D3000 is such a great camera that, even though Nikon has a newer, replacement model, they still sell the D3000!)

D3000 vs D3100

Where the D3100 excels:

-Higher resolution: The D3100 is a 14 MegaPixel camera whereas the D3000 is only a 10 MegaPixel camera. This effects how big you can print your images and have them remain high quality prints. 14 MegaPixels will print as big as 23 inches by 15 inches whereas 10 MegaPixels will print as big as 19 inches by 13 inches. A higher resolution also means you can crop an image and have the remaining image still remain high quality.

-Has live view. (This is the screen that pops up on the back of the screen that allows you to see what you're going to shoot before you shoot it. This would be used as an alternative to the viewfinder but, be aware, does eat up battery power quickly and, generally speaking, results in the camera not focusing as fast.)

-Higher ISO options. The D3100 offers two more stops of ISO than the D3000 does. If you don't know what ISO means (or what a stop is) just know that this allows you to more easily shoot images in low-light situations.

-Shoots movies. (If you want to be able to create video with your camera, you won't be able to do it with the D3000.)

Where the D3000 excels:

-It's a more affordable camera. By saving money on the D3000, you'll have more money in your budget for an awesome lens or two!

To sum this all up, if you can only afford the D3000, then you'll be really happy with it. The D3000 is a solid camera. If you can afford to spend the extra money for the D3100, though, there's no reason to not go with the D3100. Overall, it's a better camera for not that much more money.

If I can clarify any of this, please email me!

-JP Pullos, photography teacher, NYC and online (see my Amazon profile for my website)

Buy Nikon D3000 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens Now

My good old point-and-shoot camera (one of the Canon PowerShot series) had served me faithfully, but I was growing frustrated with its limitations. It seemed SO slow -I was always missing great shots of my kids. The low-light performance was not particularly good. And I knew if I ever wanted to take more than basic family snapshots, I was going to need to bite the bullet and buy a DSLR. But they seemed so intimidating!

After doing a ton of research online and trying out my sister-in-law's slightly older Nikon D40, I settled on the new D3000. And I love it! It really is easier to use than I could've imagined, and the shots I've gotten so far are amazing. I have no photographic training, but I am really delighted with the pictures I've been getting so far. I never could have imagined there would be SUCH a huge difference. I've actually gotten -sharppictures of my toddler in motion, rather than just kid-shaped blurs! I took it to a local park last night for a couple hours and took some really nice photos there, too.

Some things you might want to know if you, like me, are new to DSLRs:

* Everything you need is in the box (flash, lens, camera body, camera strap, manual, etc.) -exceptfor a memory card. You'll need to get an SD or SHDC card to use with your camera. These are quite affordable. Of course, you may WANT more lenses, etc., later, but the kit lens is very nice, and offers a decent amount of flexibility. I would suggest, however, get a lens filter to help protect the lens,

* The D3000 comes with a "Guide" -it helps you choose what effect you're looking for (freeze motion, blur background, etc.) and then helps you pick the right settings. But even just on "auto" mode, it takes some really fabulous pictures.

* Even as a relatively small DSLR, it's definitely bigger and heavier than most point-and-shoots. This wasn't a big issue to me, as I mostly plan to use it at home, but if you want something you can stick in your pocket, a DSLR may not be for you. (I plan to keep my old point-and-shoot as a backup for times when I want something I can just stow in my purse.)

* The D3000 does not have "Live View," where you can frame your shot in the LCD screen. I was a little concerned about this at first, but surprisingly, I've found that I really don't miss it at all. It also does not have video mode (which I find I don't miss, either, because I've always hated taking videos with a camera! They come out all shaky for me.)

* The included printed manual is pretty short and sweet. There is a manual on CD included that is much more complete. Neither, of course, really explains DSLRs in depth or photographic principles, so if you'd really like to learn more about using your camera to its fullest, I'd suggest Digital SLR Cameras and Photography For Dummies (For Dummies (Computer/Tech)) and Digital Photography Workbook For Dummies (For Dummies (Sports & Hobbies)). The former does a great job of explaining how your camera works, why DSLRs are different from point-and-shoots, how to care for your camera, and what accessories you may want. The latter has tons of hands-on exercises to help you learn your way around your camera and improve your photography.

In short, if you'd like to jump into the DSLR pond, the D3000 is definitely an excellent introduction. Come on in -the water's great!

Read Best Reviews of Nikon D3000 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens Here

Nikon D3000 is Nikon beginner / entry level camera. It replaces Nikon D60. There are three major upgrade of D3000 from D60. There are 11 Auto focus system with dynamic tracking and 3D tracking. This AF system is the same as Nikon mid-range/enthusiast camera, D90. Also, the LCD screen has been enlarged to 3 inches from 2.5 inches. However, the screen resolution remains the same at 230,000 dots. Also new is the Guide mode, this new mode is working as your tutor on basic photography. It helps you set up your camera, in the same time, it tells you about basic photography setting and concepts. Other than that, everything looks the same, buttons, placement, viewfinder and image quality/resolution.

It is an average size for beginner DSLR camera. But if you are coming from compact camera, you might a bit surprise of the size. On the other hand, if you are coming from advanced DSLR cameras, then you will feel this camera is compact and light.

Nikon D3000 has a thumb dial, which you will use most of the time to change shutter speed and aperture. There are mode dial on the top of the camera. Several basic buttons such as playback, delete, menu, magnifiy/zoom, and exposure compensation. There is also a function (Fn) button on the left side, near the flash that you can customize according to your need.

Coming from more advance Nikon camera like Nikon D90, what missing are the ISO button, Image Quality button, Release mode button, AF mode button and White Balance button. If you want to change above settings, you need to go to shooting menu (green camera icon). I recommend you to customize the Fn button so you can change you favorite button faster. I change my D3000 Fn button to ISO setting.

Build quality and Ergonomic

Nikon D3000 body is built by rugged plastic. There is texture in the grip area to ensure comfortable grip. The built quality of outer shell is the same or almost the same as Nikon D90. The difference is there are more textured finish in Nikon D90 body. Ergonomically, it is good to hold, but the space between lens mount and the grip is pretty tight. If you mount bigger lens or if you have big hands, then you might not feel it comfortable. Compare to Nikon D60, I noticed that the pistol grip is more curvy instead of pointy. This is a small improvement that you might appreciate.

LCD Screen

D3000 has 3 inches LCD screen with 230k resolution. This is considered basic, but the screen is clear, sharp. If you like to check on the details or pixel levels, it is best to check the images on your computer. In the bright light condition, this screen is relatively good. There is minimal glare/reflection.

Nikon D3000 has 95% coverage and 0.8x magnification viewfinder. It is considered small for DSLR size, but for people who moves from superzooms or advanced compact, this viewfinder are big and a lot clearer. Manual focusing is more challenging than the other Nikon's more advanced DSLRs.

Like Nikon D5000, Nikon D3000 does not have top LCD screen like D90 or more advanced camera. Unlike many of competitors entry level DSLR cameras, Nikon D3000 does not have any live view feature.

Lens and Compatibility

Nikon D3000 comes with Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 VR lens. This lens has a plastic mount, but the image quality and the light is recommendable. It never get super sharp like pro grade lens, but pro grade lens might costs more than ten times, so 18-55mm VR is one of the best value lens out in the market.

The lens has image stabilization feature which is called Vibration Reduction (VR). It works well and quietly up to 3 stops. If you hold the camera tight and still, you can shoot up to a quarter second without motion blur.

Unfortunately, D3000 does not have built in focus motor in the camera, therefore, it can't auto focus older lenses such as the venerable Nikon 50mm f/1.8 or the legendary Nikon 85mm f/1.4D. Lenses that compatible with this camera are lenses that has built in motor (usually has AF-S code on it) and for third party lenses, look for HSM (Sigma lens).

Image Quality and ISO

Nikon D3000 employs 10 megapixel image sensor. This sensor is a bit inferior than sensors in the D90 and D300. But still this is more adequate for large print.

Image quality is excellent up to ISO 800. At 1600, a lot of noises start to creep in especially in shadow area. At 3200 (or Hi setting), the image is unacceptable only for very small print of web.

If you turn on Noise Reduction or NR (unfortunately no low-medium-strong option), the camera with smooth out the noises, but the image become softer and lose some details. If you concern about the lost of details, I suggest you to shoot with NR off, and then take care the images with image editing software to treat the noise.

Like other Nikon DSLR cameras, D3000 also has Auto ISO limiter. You can effectively limit the ISO and minimum shutter speed. The Auto ISO works very well and accurate most of the time. My favorite way to use this is to set the camera to Auto ISO, and then use Aperture mode and let the camera adjust the rest for me.

D3000 does not have 1/3 stops ISO increments, so you only can set ISO to the regular base level or 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 and 3200 (HI). But to be fair, most of the entry level DSLR cameras does not have that too.

Auto Focus and Continuous burst

The new 11 AF points are miles better than old 3 points AF system. It helps a lot in composition and fortunately, it also comes with dynamic tracking and 3D tracking which is great for moving objects and sports. The auto focus is very fast and responsive. However, D3000 has only 3 frame per second, so you might miss some shots when shooting sports or fast moving objects.

Guide Mode

Nikon's Guide mode is a tutor for absolute beginner. It does a good job on helping you to set up the camera and also help you to get the best setting for particular kind of photography. For example, when you choose sports mode, it suggest you to set high shutter speed to eliminate motion blur.

Guide mode is basically a super duper friendly menu that consists of three major options: Shooting, playback and camera setup. Shooting menu (the most important of all), divided into two, easy operation and advanced operation.

Easy operation consists of Auto, no flash, distant subjects, sleeping faces (children), moving subjects, landscapes, portrait, and night portrait.

Advanced operation consists of soften background, freeze motion (people) and freeze motion (vehicle). Unlike the usual mode, Guide mode explains to you what kind of setting is important for particular kind of photography, so you can gain insight and knowledge of basic photography concept.

However, keep in mind that although his guide menu is very helpful, but it does not replace basic photography course or seminar.

Photo Retouch

D3000 offers some basic camera processing such as quick retouch (camera automatically enhance or optimize the image). Miniature effect which is fun to play with. Basically you will need to choose a point in the image, and then the rest of the image will be blurred, giving a depth of field illusion.

Other basic retouches are also available such as crop/trim, filter effects, color balance, BW, sepia, etc. The downside is the processing time of one image could take up to 10 seconds.

Conclusion

I applaud Nikon for D3000 because the design is very user friendly through Guide Mode. With the help of this mode, beginners will able to learn basic photography faster. Various photo retouches ignite creativity and fun. I also love the the installment of 11 AF system which is usually reserved for higher end cameras. D3000's competitors does not have this sophisticated AF system.

On the other hand, Nikon D3000 have two main weaknesses, first it does not have built-in AF motor for older but great lenses. D3000 also does not have live view mode which actually can help tremendously in focusing those old lenses.

If you have Nikon D60 you might want to look for more advanced camera such as Nikon D90 or D300. However, if you have Nikon D40 or compact cameras, this camera is a very good upgrade choice.

In short, Nikon D3000 is a solid camera for beginner that is simple, fun, and has great image quality. It is definitely worth your money.

Subjective Rating Relative to entry level DSLR cameras

Image Quality : 4/5

Features : 4/5

Performance : 5/5

Body and Handling : 4/5

Value for Money : 4/5

Please check out my website for more reviews.

Want Nikon D3000 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens Discount?

Ok, this review is more for the amateurs like myself. The reviews from the obvious pros was great and very educating, but for someone who is DSLR illiterate, I was also looking for a no-nonsense, buy this product or don't, review. Here are my initial thoughts of the Nikon D3000 so far:

Out of the box it was a snap to use. The quick start guide was just that. It got you up and running in no time. However, you have to be a finger contortionist just to get the strap properly affixed to the camera. No big deal; just took me about 10 minutes.

The accompanying lens is a cinch to attach to the body. This camera looks slick. It's more compact and a bit lighter than the other DSLR's I've test run at the brick and mortar stores.

Turn the camera on and the big 3" display lights up with all the camera data I hope to understand one day...f-stop, aperature, numbers, other numbers, dots and squares, and so on. I'm positive they all mean something. The included user manual says what all this stuff means, but not how a newbie like me can manipulate these settings to produce great pictures. But that's what this entry level camera is all about. Baby steps.

Set the camera to AUTO and shoot away. The camera does everything for you. AUTO is fine if you want immediate pictures. But start learning the camera's real capabilities (which only requires some light reading on-line or simple experimentation), and you're shooting your best photos ever. I'm not a big fan of flowers, but I messed with the settings, took a picture of some purpley flowers with a blurry background and, voila, I had myself a Finer Living Magazine cover.

Want pictures of the kiddos? Tired of using your point-and-shoot, pressing the button, and 3 seconds later it takes the picture? You missed the "golden frame". Guess what? This DSLR will take the picture as soon as you press the shutter button. And did you know this $450 camera will take the picture just as fast as the $5000 jobbers? Yes, you knew that. I just wanted to show that you don't need to spend loads of money on a camera to take great pictures.

Is this the camera to have for professional wedding photographs? Not unless it's 4AM at a wedding chapel on the Vegas Strip. At 10MP this camera wasn't designed for the professional to take professional photos. Use this camera for everyday pictures of the family, nature, vacations, your neighbor (kidding).

Some people don't like the fact that it doesn't have video. Who cares? Video cameras are for video. DSLR's are for taking pictures. Want video on a DSLR? Buy the D5000 or a new Canon, Mr. Moneybags.

Overall, this camera has the ability to take incredible photos. Just learn what it's capable of and you'll be very happy with it. You will not find a better price for the D3000 anywhere but Amazon. No sales tax (in most states, I think) saves you $60+.

Graduating from a point and shoot digital to a DSLR makes buying the Nikon D3000 the obvious choice.

Save 15% Off

Monday, December 9, 2013

Nikon COOLPIX P330 12.2 MP Digital Camera with 5x Zoom (Black)

Nikon COOLPIX P330 12.2 MP Digital Camera with 5x ZoomJust a few thoughts after a week of limited use.

I wanted a point & shoot camera that would fit in my pocket to carry at all times. I am a pro photographer but don't want always to be hauling a bag of heavy DSLR's around. But the camera had to have the following:-

1. Small and well made.

2. 24mm equivalent lens at the short end. Didn't care much about the tele end so 120mm was more than enough for my needs.

3. Need WiFi connection so could fire and view what camera was seeing from my cell phone or tablet.

4. Needed RAW file format.

5. GPS nice addition but not the most important thing for me I could live without it.

Well the P330 has all the above and I can tell you that can be hard to find in a small point and shoot (I consider the Canon G15 too big and besides I have a G11).

Noise levels seem low at 400 ASA I have not tested at higher ISO's but hardly ever use them. In Photoshop CS6 the noise in a blue sky looked good and with noise reduction applied it then just about disappeared. I have the noise set to LOW in the camera as didn't want to softern the image although that may not happen with this camera. There is a LOW, MEDIUM and HIGH setting for noise.

I found setting the aperture hard to figure out as I kept mis-reading the book. In Apperture Priority or Manual the aperture is set by turning the 4 way controler on the back of the camera and I was pressing different sides of this wheel.

The ON/OFF button is flush with the top of the camera body so it is best to turn on or off the camera by using a finger nail tip rather than the pad of the finger. It is designed this way (I guess) to stop the camera being accidently turned on or off during use.

Images seem sharp and what you see on the view finder (no viewfind eyepeice) is what you get as far as exposure goes.

I put a 64GB SanDisk 45MB/sec card in it and that works fine. Thats about all I can contribute for now. I am sure more detailed reviews will appear shortly. But I'm happy with this well made and good looking camera.

Oh, I do have one issue with Nikon. There appears to be only the limited VIEW NX2 software (that came on CD with the camera) to convert the cameras RAW files (NRW format, not NEF) into TIFF or JPEG. I think Nikon could have updated CAPTURE to co-inside with this camera launch. It does not even appear to be included in the next Adobe Camera RAW conversion update for Photoshop. Too many RAW formats nobody can keep up apparently even the camera manufactures. That's as of today April 2, 2013.

Correction: As of today April 4, 2013 Adobe have just released Camera RAW update 7.4 and included the NRW format used by the Nikon P330yea!!! It appears to see the camera as the Nikon P6000 but looks to be making the corrections OK. My earlier information was incorrect. Life just got a whole lot better for NRW shooters, which is the only way to go for serious picture takers. JPG's are fine for snapshots.

New Update June 14, 2013: Adobe just added the P330 to their ACR lens corrections a few days ago (around 6/7/2013). I took the camera to Thailand and used it daily where it replaced DLSR's and tripod some days unless I was planning something serious. I set the ISO to Auto, something I would not do for serious photography but liked the results better than flash, which is unpredictable for quick pickup and shoot pics. I know many would disagree and that's OK but as a pro I find I have to take several shots before the flash lights the subject just right, unless you get lucky. I have a very high regard for this little dude. Of couse it's not perfect what is?. It may not be your personal first choice but with its W/A lens (24mm on 35mm camera) and slips into pocket unnoticed, I'm just glad I laid my money down.

April 9, 2013 I will update this review as I continue to use this camera. Here are my initial reactions.

I debated the Canon S110 and Nikon P7700 but ultimately decided to choose the P330 due to its size and positive leaning initial reviews/previews. This camera is constructed well. Some don't like the finish or material feel, but I'd like to push back and say that the whole body of the camera is well designed and feels quite solidly built. My only gripe is the battery door, but I'm willing to bet that Nikon ensured that it would survive most situations thrown at it. I like that the camera is simply a box, it looks like a camera with no frills, no gimmicks. It functions like this as well.

Nikon menus are familiar to me and they are well appreciated when it comes to basic electronic usage/knowledge. The logic is good, and it just plain works. The display is bright and can be seen under sunny conditions when used. The buttons and dials deliver a satisfying click-feedback. The rubber grips on the front/back provide a lot of comfort and confidence for one handed shooting. This camera is a lot smaller than what I expected, and that's a great thing because that's why I bought it!

Auto-mode seems well acquainted for people and landscape shots in decent lighting. Go in close and try macro out, you'll need to help it by setting the auto-focus to close shooting. Immediately, the camera will become a macro master in this mode. The burst mode is fast and quite impressive. My overall impression of the speed is very good considering the size of the camera. I remember when point and shoots simply couldn't take decent pictures due to their shutter speed (or lack of). You can select a shutter speed that exceeds any allowance of light entrance, to me, that's impressive.

The flash is very intense and quick, mostly good for those situations where there is no alternative light source and you're taking a picture of a medium range subject. I actually found that in most cases, it wasn't needed at all. The camera lens takes up a lot of work for lower light situations. This makes me appreciate the fact that the flash is opened by a mechanical switch, because it helps me decided whether or not its needed, instead of the camera making a bad decision for me.

Video is impressive and the VR really improves any jellies that might come about. I'm impressed by the quality and autofocus. Really excellent stuff, Nikon.

Overall, this camera is really great for someone who appreciates DSLR quality but doesn't want to haul all their gear with them all the time. Would highly recommend so far.

Buy Nikon COOLPIX P330 12.2 MP Digital Camera with 5x Zoom (Black) Now

This is going to be a long review but before I start, I don't want to scare anyone.. this camera is not hard to use, anyone could use it.

However, I want to emphasize how this camera could satisfy a most hard core photographer among us, even those who shoot in manual and RAW modes.

This review is from a photography enthusiast. I am a hobbyist, not a pro, but I am serious about my hobby. I own cameras like the Nikon D600, D5100, Olympus m4/3 system and their excellent e-pm2. I've owned Canon DSLRs and SLRs, even their tiny ELPH 300, I've started with photography in early 90s, with a 35mm Nikon FM2 camera.

Let's start with the reason why anyone serious about photography would buy this camera. The word is: size. If you're looking for image quality, value, control, feel.. DSLRs, m4/3 cameras have that. But what they all lack is the ability for you to put the camera in a pocket and always have it on you. But would it be possible to still retain some of the control "big" cameras offer even in a tiny pocketable point and shoot camera?

I started my search for an advanced point and shoot few months back and everything led me to the Sony's excellent rx100. But something kept me from pulling the trigger and getting it. Maybe it was the $650 price tag. And it's not that I couldn't afford it, but I wanted something I wouldn't have to baby. If I dropped it, I wouldn't be too upset about it. Something in a small package that could give near enough decent pictures bigger cameras can produce and give me the control that I want.

I have not considered many Canon options, just because I am not a fan of the Canon UIs. I have owned multiple Canons in my life and they were all fine cameras, it's just not my preference. So keep that in mind, there may be a Canon camera out there that may suit you better, I just haven't considered it for personal (and subjective) reasons.

I have however considered cameras from the following manufacturers: Sony, Olympus, Panasonic, Fujifilm and Ricoh. After a lot of deliberation I came down to the following choices.

Sony:

rx100, pound for pound champ, point and shoot. Huge image quality from a tiny camera. Not without its issues. Sony UI is not the most intuitive to me. Battery life may be of a concern, however ~300 shots is plenty for me. It is slightly bigger than the Coolpix P330 and like I explained slightly more than I wanted to spend.

Panasonic:

Lumix LX-7. Great camera. This was the closest contender. I handled one actually from a friend who owns one. Camera feels solid, I thought it felt better than Coolpix P330. It is bigger as well though. This was the main concern, as well as the issue of a lens cap. Although the latter has a solution in form of a foldable lens cap that can be obtained for ~$10. Fantastic Leica lens as well. There was even a recent sale of this camera at $300. Similar sensor size as the P330 and without any scientific tests I am assuming should be capable of similar if not better picture quality properties as the P330.

Since size was the main criteria for the pick, here is the reference comparaison tool that I used to drive my decision:

I have received the camera few days ago and have put it trough its paces. I mostly shoot in manual mode on my DSLRs but I do like Aperture Priority as well on my smaller cameras. I exclusively shoot RAW, as I enjoy post processing and the flexibility RAW files provide in post. I would have been happy with just the ability to disable noise reduction but having RAW is so much better. On the topic of Noise Reduction. I am not a fan of it, I don't like how it tends to turn images into mush. I would much rather have noise, and convert the image to black and white if the noise was an issue. I find it quite annoying that point and shoot cameras or smart phone cameras don't have a way to disable noise reduction.

Pros:

Size. This camera is not only tiny and easily fits in my pockets, it is also very light. (I've uploaded an image of the camera next to my D600 for size comparaison)

Relatively fast lens (good low light performance). f/1.8 at the wide end, similar to the rx100 in aperture.

RAW support. It is so nice having this. This means you can rescue badly exposed images and manage the tonal quality not possible with jpegs.

Manual Exposure: ISO, shutter speed, aperture size are all easy to adjust. If you want to get creative and do some light painting you can. The camera even has a Neutral Density filter option. Haven't had a chance to test it yet.

1/1.7" sensor and low megapixel count. Bigger than the 1/2.3" sensor size which ships in most point and shoot cameras, combined with lower than average megapixel count. Means, photo cells on the sensor can gather more light, resulting in better low light performance (less noise). I am getting relatively low levels of noise at ISO 800, and ISO 1600 is better than expected. I commend Nikon for electing to go with a low megapixel sensor despite the trend of "more megapixel the better" marketing nonsense!

The screen is nice and bright.

If you're a Nikon shooter, you'll feel right at home with the settings menus.

Flash. Nikon has long been known for great Flash implementations. I feel the Flash provided is great. And I have achieved great results with it.

All this combines and creates a sum of a very capable advanced point and shoot camera. The image quality I am getting has exceeded my expectation. The pros I have listed far outweigh the cons I am going to list. Most of the cons are not serious flaws, and should be considered there because of the tradeoff of creating such a small camera with these capabilities.

Cons:

Sluggish AF. There is a 4 second delay after you take a photo in RAW mode. During that time you can't shoot an image, but you can't even get a focus lock either. This is the most annoying of the flaws. Since there is no buffer, this means that if you miss the shot, you're done.

UI can appear sluggish at times as well.

The big unmarked dial to the right. I feel it's somewhat underutilized, it often doesn't do anything depending on which mode you're operating in. Yet it's a nice dial, with a decent tactile feel. I think it's a bit of a missed opportunity here as it could have been programmable. Since I only shoot in AP mode, I don't get to use either top dials much, and I like dials. I would much rather use it, than the dial on the back around the OK button.

On/Off button, probably the biggest flaw, and it's maybe just an issue with my copy of the camera. But there is a tactile disconnect between the click sound you get when you click it and the camera actually getting the signal to turn off or on. After you push the button you have to push even more for it to register your command. Since it's a pocket camera, I'd rather have it be little harder to turn on by accident though. The lens extending in your pocket could be awkward, so it's not that big of a deal I guess.

FN button operation was unintuitive to me. I am used to designating its function in the menu and then just using that function with it. But FN actually lets you pick a different option which I feel takes away from the usability of the function. Can't complain much though, I am glad to have this option at all on a point and shoot.

Lack of a stand alone battery charger. I think a camera in this category should have this. Even my ELPH 300 had this, and it's a category below the P330.

Build quality feels ok. But just ok. People complain about the battery/sd card door, but I don't have an issue with this. The battery door is spring loaded and metal. Not sure what the issue is. I appreciate how light the camera is.

Another missed opportunity I think is with the flash. I think it could have been bouncable. Like the rx100 has a small flash which can be tilted upwards to bounce the light off the ceiling, or a side in portrait holding position. This is nitpicking though. A business card does the trick.

In conclusion: Anyone looking for an advanced point and shoot camera cannot go wrong with the Nikon Coolpix P330 in my opinion. The camera punches above its weight in the current market.

edit: couldn't link to the actual camera size comparaisons since Amazon doesn't allow it. Google camerasize website if you want to compare for yourself.

edit: It looks like the free software that ships with the camera Nikon NX2 automatically corrects lens distortion when developing RAW files. I have removed the following item from the list of Cons to reflect this, but will keep it in the review in case anyone runs into this:

" Lens distortion. This is not really a con, since you can't really expect corrective lens elements in such a small zoom lens. When shooting jpeg, this is corrected by the camera. But when you shoot RAW you get the actual data sensor sees. And from this you can tell the vignetting and the lens distortion is quite pronounced. This is easily correctable in post processing software like Aperture or Lightroom. Currently Lightroom doesn't have a profile for the lens, but manual correction works ok for the time being. It's something to keep in mind for all of us RAW shooters. And hopefully Adobe will add the lens correction profile for this camera in the future."

EDIT UPDATE 2:

After taking the camera out for shooting over the weekend. I have realized it is not the most responsive of cameras. In fact Auto Focus can be quite stubborn about not locking focus and I have missed quite a few shots due to shutter lag and general sluggishness. I feel as an advanced compact the camera should be more responsive, because what good are all the features if you miss the shots? I am going to knock a star of my review for this reason.

Read Best Reviews of Nikon COOLPIX P330 12.2 MP Digital Camera with 5x Zoom (Black) Here

After my Sony RX100 went back for repairs (under warranty) for the second time, I bought this as a backup camera. For about half the price of the Sony it does an excellent job. Image quality is sharp. The litmus test is low light with no flash and it still excels. Both boot and focus times are very good. RAW capabilities exist but WiFi unfortunately is an option. I have always shot in Auto mode to date as well. Basically this is the same size as the Sony, half the price but definitely not half the image quality. Having both cameras now, I would not spend the extra cash for the RX100. If you're looking for a compact camera as your primary or DSLR backup in this price range I recommend the Nikon.

Want Nikon COOLPIX P330 12.2 MP Digital Camera with 5x Zoom (Black) Discount?

If you had a P300 you were probably very happy with it. P300 always took very good low light photos, but there was a lot of noise processing, making pictures somewhat soft. P330 with a larger sensor and options to regulate noise reduction help make photos even better. I was not near US so I couldn't buy the camera from Amazon, I bought it in Hong Kong.... for about $20 more. I also considered Olympus XZ-10, as they had it available in Hong Kong. It is a nice camera, but I found some sample pics on the internet that raised concerns about quality of daytime pics in bright light. So I chose to stay loyal to Nikon and I don't regret it. I haven't had too much time to test it fully, but so far I am impressed with speed of focus, excellent macro, great low light capability. Only thing I would trade is GPS for a function ring on the front. Build quality is fantastic. Overall, especially for the price and compactness, a great pocket camera.

I did notice some comments regarding the power button. I have no fingernails to speak of, and I have zero problems turning the camera on. Yes, you have to give it a solid press... it is a mechanism to prevent the camera from turning on in you pocket by an accidental press (your finger will go on the power button when you pull it out of the pocket), possibly breaking the lens. There is a slight lag in the first set of menus, but once you get in the menu there is no lag, in any case that can be resolved by a firmware update. I think the quality is great. Camera turns on quickly, playback is instant. No issues. In the end, in this segment people are in it for the compactness & picture quality. I think this camera delivers great value for the price.

I just found this link so I wanted to add it It may help with the decision. I am glad I chose the P330.