Showing posts with label computer monitors reviews. Show all posts
Showing posts with label computer monitors reviews. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Olympus T10 Black 10MP Digital Camera

Olympus T10 Black 10MP Digital CameraMy canon camera that i was using previously broke, and money being tight this is the camera i could afford. I knew with it being a $50 camera (the amount i paid) I couldn't expect it to behave like my more expensive canon. My first thought when i took it out of the box was that it felt really plastic-y and cheap. I put the AA batteries (which BTW did not bother me, since my canon used AAs) took a picture of my daughter and was happy with the results. In fact the next month i took it with us on vacation and had no complaints about the quality of photos. Then the pictures started getting darker and darker. It was like the flash was going. toward the end if the pictures were taken outdoors on a clear sunny day they looked great. But indoor pictures were dark, as if i had taken them without the flash.

This camera also has video, but no sound on playback. When you download it to your computer though there will be sound. You just can't listen to it on the actual camera. You can zoom in and out during video recording. It took me a while to figure out the right mode for this. On one of the modes it won't allow zooming. (i wish i could tell you which mode, but my camera is broke now). Which brings us to my camera's end. A couple of days ago the battery compartment broke, so the batteries won't stay in. I suppose i could just tape it closed, but i don't feel like re-taping it every time i need to change the batteries. All together it lasted me about 11 months.

This camera is all I expected it to be for the price, only drawback is the use of AA batteries other than that is a nice camera for kids or for places or situations you don't want to bring your good camera with you.

Buy Olympus T10 Black 10MP Digital Camera Now

I've had this camera several months and have never been so frustrated. I operated my last digital camera with no problems and edited images just fine. But this camera is ridiculously complex and the manual is absurd. Get this -I'm a Technical Writer with a master's degree and I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE MANUAL IS SAYING. I'd buy another camera but I don't want to spend the money.

If you're planning on buying this camera, I suggest that you look at the manual online before purchasing it. Wish I had. I would never have purchased it. Beware!!

Tammy

Read Best Reviews of Olympus T10 Black 10MP Digital Camera Here

Monday, October 6, 2014

DXG USA DXG-535VP HD Riviera 720p High-Definition Camcorder Luxe Collection, Pink

DXG USA DXG-535VP HD Riviera 720p High-Definition Camcorder Luxe Collection, PinkFor the price and design, my fiance loved it. It was perfect and the price can't be beat. Hi resolution is what we needed for our time away from each other. I got her a 32G memory card and it was perfect for easy transfer to a computer to put on a dvd disc. Highly recommended for just the casual or regular video maker=-)

I absolutely love this camera! First off, it is too cute! Pink with rhinestones!!! The carry case is also adorable! I've gotten so many compliments on the look of this camera! And it takes pretty good video too! Love it!

Buy DXG USA DXG-535VP HD Riviera 720p High-Definition Camcorder Luxe Collection, Pink Now

This is a gift for my 9yr. old daughter. She loves the studded design, color and case. She used it for Christmas and loved the picture quality and easy handling. She loved being able to connect the camera to the TV, PC, and her labtop. The CD disk with a video editing program was great as well.

Read Best Reviews of DXG USA DXG-535VP HD Riviera 720p High-Definition Camcorder Luxe Collection, Pink Here

This is a great camcorder for children ages 7 and up. It comes with great features and shoots excellent 720p videos.

Want DXG USA DXG-535VP HD Riviera 720p High-Definition Camcorder Luxe Collection, Pink Discount?

I have had issues with DXG in the past. Item functions great, then malfunctions or stops working after a few uses and nothing to explain why. No bumps or drops, they just stop functioning. I advised against the purchase, but my daughter wanted "pink". Now she's unhappy and I have to scramble for new "satisfactory color" camera before vacation.

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Olympus Tough TG-830 iHS Shock & Waterproof Digital Camera (Black) with 32GB Card + Case + Batt

Olympus Tough TG-830 iHS Shock & Waterproof Digital Camera with 32GB Card + Case + Battery + Flex Tripod + HDMI Cable + Accessory KitThe camera came very fast and was packed very well so that there was no damage. This camera is awesome and can do so many things!! Even the fast action gets extremely good pictures.

I was looking for a smaller camera that took great pictures. I wanted to be able to take action shots that wouldn't be blurred. Most "sports" features are supposed to allow for that, but I would still have blurry pictures. With this camera, I don't get blurred pictures. The "magic" features are a lot of fun to play with. I have been able to take excellent pictures with this camera...as good as my Canon Rebel. The GPS and compass are fun features as well.

Buy Olympus Tough TG-830 iHS Shock & Waterproof Digital Camera (Black) with 32GB Card + Case + Batt Now

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Sony LMD1410 14 Inch LCD Professional Video Monitor

Sony LMD1410 14 Inch LCD Professional Video MonitorHaving owned and used two of these Sony's for a couple of years in a professional video production setting, I'd recommend the LMD-series with one exception: poor audio design.

With Sony's long-standing reputation as a leader in audio products, I was both surprised and disappointed that it would put out a professional grade, state of the art TV monitor with just MONAURAL audio jacks, and a very poor (inadequate) amplifier/speaker combination. If you're going to have an audio in/out loop thru for each source, why not have stereo in/outs?

Professional VTRs recordings have often used "narration only" on one audio track and music bed or "nat sound" on the other, so only having one track go thru the cue monitor can be confusing.

I use this model constantly in cueing and playback of DVD & tape/DVR segments for hotel, theatre, and concert events; and I almost always have to bring a separate Fostex or Anchor powered monitor speaker to be able to hear clearly whatever source I am cueing or playing. There just isn't much volume behind the built-in speaker. And some audio sources overload the front end of the built in amp, giving the impression of a distorted source material.

I have Pentium-90 (i.e., OLD!) laptops that have better built-in volume and audio quality than this Sony.

Apart from sound, the video features (both in 4:3 and 16:9, and underscan modes) are everything a video pro could ask for. It's nice having A/B switching between two composite inputs (as well as a separate button to switch to a component/RGB third source), to minimize the number of monitors I need on a setup. And having S-video (Y/C mini-DIN) loop thru on the composite input (in addition to BNC) saves cabling and D/A patching on S-video sources. NTSC and PAL systems are supported in the menu.

A P-I-P (picture in picture window) option would have been nice (like on my home Sony, which even has an A/B swap between the PIP windows).

Rack-mount bracket options and standard VESA (100mm) mounting holes (for wall or arm mount), round out the versatility for the end-user, in addition to the stock table stand.

Even though this model is now discontinued (2010), it can still be found at various Sony dealers, and here on Amazon.com. The replacement model is the LMD-1530W (which is widescreen format).

Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Nikon D300s 12.3MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II Lens

Nikon D300s 12.3MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II LensHello everybody, My name is Daniel and I am about as serious as you can be and still be considered "amateur". I have been taking photos on SLR's since I was 10 years old on an old film Minolta and I bought my first DSLR (a Nikon D50) and since then I have owned everything from a base line Canon XSi all the way up to the the best camera I have ever handled... the D300s. I have operated the D3, D3s, D3x and the top of the line professional $10k Canons, and this is still my favorite ALL AROUND camera. So here is the break down to why I love this camera and I will give you a list of pros and cons. I love this camera for many reasons... ... not many people can justify spending another $4,000 (2-3 times the money) when they are looking to spend around $1,500$2,000 for a good DSLR. So here is the benefits that I see to D300s over the other great Nikon models.

1. if you are into sports the D300s has a higher continuous frame rate than other models including the ever so popular full frame D700. With it's DX sensor it has a crop factor of 1.5 which means more bang for you buck when using a telephoto zoom lens. If you purchase the MB-D10 battery pack it will shoot at even higher speeds of 8fps when using continuous shooting and also allows for up to nearly 5,000 pictures to be taken on one charge (when upgraded battery is purchased). With 51 auto-focus and 3-D tracking you are almost guaranteed to have your subject in focus every time you take a picture. The D300s also features Active D Lighting which makes to so your pictures end up properly exposed so you don't end up with areas of under and over exposure which tend to be common in sports and in shadowy landscape photography

2. Freedom: although all Nikon DSLR's allow you to manually adjust your settings they are difficult to change until you get to the semi-pro D300 model. If you understand f-stops, DOF, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, focus points, light metering and other technical jargon and really want to experiment with all of these then a D300s is the camera for you. with shooting modes including: single, cont. low speed, high speed, timer, quiet, and mirror up mode this camera gives you all the freedom you could ever ask for.

3. Learning: this camera will make you learn the true in's and out's of photography. With the very accurate light meter it's not very hard to get the exposure right. No matter what your ISO and f stop is at.

4. User interface. With the dedicated live view and info button new to the D300s over the original D300 it cuts menu times down significantly however it no longer has the memory card hatch release switch. The D300s includes great features such as custom menus, easy to understand menus with the classic (?) button which will explain every camera function in easy to understand terms. On the fly changes include ISO, WB, Quality, shooting modes, a user adjusted fn button, AF/AE lock, light metering, and af adjustments. So the only limitations are your imagination. Selecting your focal point is as easy as looking in the viewfinder and pushing the directional button and watching the selector move around until you have exactly the right spot selected. With two selectors (one for shutter speed and one for f stop) it allows you to never have to take your eye out out of the viewfinder.

The bottom line (why you would choose this over any other Nikon DSLR):

why you'd choose this over the D90: 51point AF w/ 3D tracking, more fps, control of image adjustments, not much more money for a lot more freedom and creativity, contrast auto-focusing during movies, ability to utilize dual card slots (CF and SD), 14bit RAW, Active D Lighting.

Over the D700: full 12MP when using DX lenses rather than 5MP, more fps, $600-$1,000 less, movie mode, smaller pixels for more refinement at low ISO, 100% viewfinder coverage

Over the D3 and D3x: A ton of money, shooting speed, optimization of DX and FX lenses and movie mode, and built in flash, 100% viewfinder coverage which allows for better framing.

This is a great camera HOWEVER NOTE THE FOLLOWING!!!!!

The D700, D3,x,s have FX photo sensors which allow for a much bigger and brighter view finder, it also allows for a wider view (no crop factor instead of 1.5x like the DX) which means if you want more area in your pictures for such things as landscapes then the D700 or the D3 lineup maybe a better option because a 50mm lens in a DX camera looks the same as a 75mm lens on an FX camera.

The D700 and D3 lineup (minus the D3x) utilize the large FX sensor and still only have a 12MP capacity which means that the pixels are larger which allows for better depth of color, better definition in shadows, and better high ISO clarity. The D300 can go to extended ISO of 6400 however the image quality is poor at best when the D3 can shoot ISO 6400 all day long and look great. The D700 also does better at high ISOs than the D300 does because it has the same sensor as the D3 however the D3 still does better than the D700 at extreme ISOs. However also consider the fact that the smaller the image sensor the larger the depth of field so the D700 and the D3 are better for macro or portrait photography and the D300 will give you a larger DOF equivalent to about one f-stop.

THIS IS NOT A VIDEO CAMERA video is pretty good and the utilization of lenses is a great feature however if you want good video spend the money on a video camera. Even a Flip HD does better. The camera produces good video but it doesn't do well during panning if you plan on putting the camera on a tripod and filming then by all means its fine and with the option for an external mic to give you stereo sound is nice.

When it comes to portability, price, features, weight, usability, image adjustments ect. I personally believe it doesn't get any better I hope this review helped and I hope you get one too and really enjoy it as much as I have. This camera is the best of all worlds. I say save the money from an FX camera and buy a really nice lens or two or three for that matter. Anyway here is the camera of my dreams and hopefully the camera in your bag shortly I promise you'll love it, I know I do.

UPDATE: For all you HDR photographers look no further than the D300s you can easily create HDR photos by selecting "multiple exposures" and then setting up multi-step exposures for + or EV per exposure and after the exposures are done voila you have a beautiful HDR photo. Keep in mind however: you will need a cable release (I recommend the MC-36) for the multiple exposures. OR take a few pictures at different exposures and overlay the photos in the in camera retouch menu and there you have it perfect HDR photos every time! Goodbye Photoshop (for HDR anyway)

The D300s and flash compatibility: I have noticed almost no one has talked about the fantastic flash compatibility with the D300s over many cameras. I figured it needed to be covered so here it goes: The D300s is a DREAM to work with when paired with any Nikon Speedlight Dynamic Lighting System. My favorite and most frequently used flash is the SB-600 Speedlight which can be wirelessly operated for NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE with the D300s, you just have to know what settings to change. Unlike the D3 which has to either have a hot shoe flash controller unit or an SB-800 ($900) the D300s can operate a nearly unlimited number of flashes wirelessly without any accessories. So if you are like so many other Nikon users and own an SB-600 just push and hold the "Zoom" and the "-" button at the same time until you get to custom menu and cycle through until you can adjust the squiggly Z shaped line and turn it to on and it defaults to channel 3 then either push and hold the "zoom" and "-" button to get out of the menu or just push the power button. Then go to the "Custom Setting Menu" (the pencil) on your D300s and change "e3" "flash cntrl for built-in flash" to the Commander mode and set to channel 3, and pop up your built in flash and there you go...ABSOLUTELY FREE WIRELESS FLASH with perfect exposure compensation every time using a $250 flash unit. Hope it helps someone I know it helped me so have fun and remember to change it back to TTL flash when you're done.

UPDATE #2: I have had a lot of question on why you would get this over a D300 and here you go the main reasons for buying the D300s over the D300 is the designated info button, and live view button, movie mode, designated okay button instead of one crappy directional selector, quiet mode AND dual memory card slots. It's also 7 months newer so you won't have an out dated camera as soon. It also has slightly different menus and new software for shooting modes including landscape, and portrait modes.



This is a tough review because this camera is so excellent as a still device and easily earns five stars. However, if you're currently a D300 owner looking to upgrade for this camera's new video capabilities you will be disappointed. The unfortunate 'rolling shutter' problem that plagues the video feature on the D90 exists on the new D300s too.

There's a host of technical reasons for this (the CMOS sensor is to blame) but the bottom line for those looking for a great still and video camera should probably not rely on the D300S to be the 'holy grail' of sub $2000 "prosumer" cameras just yet. There is software out there to correct these issues, but it is a bit disappointing that Nikon didn't address this in firmware. Watch my video to see more.

Buy Nikon D300s 12.3MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II Lens Now

There are plenty of very good comprehensive reviews here of the D300S here already, so I'm instead of posting another I'm going to attempt to focus on what I see as some of the pros and cons of the D300S versus other camera bodies in the Nikon line-up. The D300S has essentially identical image quality to the $500 D5000 and the now quite old (in DSLR terms) D300 and D90; and it remains a small-format DX camera while the next step up in price gets you a full-frame D700. Even so, my personal choice for the majority of my photography is a D300S rather than any of those alternatives. I have also owned and shot with every other camera mentioned here: all are excellent and I believe all can be considered good values for the money spent in today's market. Perhaps some readers would find my perspective useful.

As far as I'm concerned, image quality from Nikon DSLRs has really been quite excellent at least since the introduction of the D70. Of course there have been all kinds of incremental improvements since then, but comparing anything since the D70 to the funky highlights produced by the earlier D100, for example, makes it clear that we have long since reached the point of diminishing returns when it comes to real, visible improvements in DSLR image quality. In terms of the finer points it will continue to improve, but whether you buy a D5000, a D300S or a D700, the differences between the images you can make with the camera are going to be tiny compared with the differences in how you can use it with the exception of the FX-vs-DX field of view, which is very important.

What I think most people will benefit from is carefully assessing the features and physical capabilities of the various bodies, considering the types of photography they like to do, and selecting the best match for their particular needs. Budget, of course, enters the equation: but for many photographers the small, light D5000 would be the best choice regardless of budget, while of course others will absolutely require the pro features of the more expensive bodies.

D300S vs D700; DX vs FX By far the most fundamental issue in camera body selection:

This is the one real difference between the shooting capabilities of any of the bodies I'm writing about here, and it affects every image you make with the camera once you buy it. I would strongly advise readers NOT to look at format as a camera issue, but to look at it as a lens issue. Of course there are differences between the FX and DX bodies, even those closest in specification, and to some degree it's possible to equalize lens selection: but when you begin to look at the practical realities of lens selection for DX vs FX formats, it is immediately apparent that they operate in completely different worlds. I'm convinced that this should be one's primary consideration when choosing a camera, assuming that your budget allows you a choice between the formats.

The heart of the matter is that it really is much easier to make a great DX lens than it is to make a great FX lens. The basic physics guarantees it. The DX format is 2/3 the linear size of the FX format, meaning that, all else being equal, lenses will have to be 3.4 TIMES BIGGER (1.5^3) in FX format to exactly equal the optics on DX of a DX format lens. Because lens design is a matter of careful compromise between many factors mainly size, price, max aperture, zoom ratio, sharpness, and weight; real-world FX lenses aren't made 3.4 times bigger, heavier and more expensive than DX lenses. They are instead made only considerably bigger, with compromises in other aspects of design so that they must give up some aspect of performance: zoom ratio, max aperture, optical excellence to achieve their design objectives.

Because of this, there is really no FX equivalent to the excellent 16-85mm VR DX lens (the 24-120VR is a fairly mediocre lens despite being physically larger). Likewise the 35mm f/1.8 has come out being a slightly better lens than the 50mm f/1.4G despite being smaller and lighter (though slower, unfortunately). Many excellent wide zooms now exist for DX cameras at affordable prices, while the selection of FX wide zooms has one choosing between obscenely heavy and expensive excellent lenses and "normally" priced average lenses. This conundrum spans the entire range of available lenses, and it is likely never to change or to resolve in favor of FX because it is driven by the basic physics of optics and their design and manufacture.

For this reason, DX cameras have tremendous advantages if you want to shoot lenses that are reasonably priced, that give excellent sharpness and overall image quality, that have flexible zoom ranges, and that are light and compact enough to transport and use unobtrusively.

FX, on the other hand, will be marketed as the premier format, and I think we can expect that most of the very best lenses made will continue to be FX lenses. Very fast primes, f/2.8 zooms built to pro specifications, long telephotos and the best macro lenses will all be FX. FX lenses can of course be used on DX cameras, but that realization leads to the other FX advantages. While the DX "crop factor" gives DX bodies a presumed advantage in the telephoto range, it conversely gives FX cameras a sizeable advantage within the "normal" ranges most people do most of their shooting at. A 50mm lens on FX equals a 35mm lens on DX in terms of field of view, but allows for much better control of subject isolation than the DX lens. Likewise, a "fast wide" lens on FX such as the new 24mm f/1.4G becomes a much less exotic creature on DX, and probably rather pointless as a consequence. For portraiture, the selection of lenses for FX is wonderful, if expensive, whereas DX shooters must compromise by using lenses not designed for their native format.

For photographers who shoot mostly in the normal ranges, who want to maximize their control of depth of field (especially towards the wide end), who don't mind paying a premium for the most expensive equipment, and who are willing to put up with the weight and the conspicuousness of shooting with pro-level equipment as well as the compromises inherent in FX lens design, FX will continue to be the only option.

There is one more advantage currently in shooting FX, in that the FX sensors are more light-sensitive than the DX sensors, enabling shooting at tremendous ISOs, well above the DX level. This will probably always remain so: the FX sensor is bigger, and can gather more light. Whether this is important to a particular user really depends on the types of photography they like to do, but it should be appropriately factored into the decision. Likewise FX cameras have larger viewfinders, which will probably never be possible on DX cameras: another luxury of FX shooting that does not directly translate to the images that can be produced.

Personally, having been a film shooter in the past, I find my needs more than satisfied by DX bodies, at least for the time being. A selection of excellent, lightweight lenses suffices for the vast majority of my photography, while I can put up with the compromises inherent in some parts of the range, especially for fast wide shooting. I'd like some fast prime lens options in the range of 16-28mm for DX but I can live with their absence considering the cost, both financial and in terms of lost flexibility, of switching to FX.

D300S vs D300 vs D90

My upgrade path went from the D40 through the D90 and D300 and then to the D300S. I loved every one of those bodies except, notably, the D300, which was in some ways a step backwards in comparison to the D90 and which I was never completely satisfied with. I do currently have a D700 as well.

The D90 is still a great camera, affording the vast majority of capabilities of the D300S, the exceptions being the inherent handling and feature advantages of the pro bodies. The D90 is also much lighter and physically smaller than the pro bodies, making it a very pleasant camera to shoot, and I would still be using mine were it not for just a couple of relatively minor improvements that make the D300S worth the upgrade for me. The pro bodies let you define custom setting banks, so that I can switch between different types of shooting easily. Since I do this daily, this is very important to me. Switching from an indoor, tripod-mounted shooting configuration to an outdoor, hand-held shooting configuration on a D90 takes a lot of button presses and a couple of minutes, and there is always the very likely possibility of forgetting to change one critical parameter and not realizing it until it's too late. No matter how serious a photographer you are, if you shoot mostly in similar conditions all the time, or in constantly changing conditions such that pre-defined shooting banks would be useless, then this feature is probably meaningless to you. It happens to be very useful to me.

Likewise the D300S has a couple of features lacking in the D300 that allow for quick settings changes: several shooting parameters (not enough, though) can be changed quickly right on the rear LCD as on the D40/60/3000/5000 bodies, which I find very useful. Also useful, the D300S' function buttons can be programmed to put you at the top selection of a custom-defined menu. Between these two features I can access and change almost any of the commonly-altered settings on the D300S (or the D90/D700) very quickly, while the D300 had me hunting through the menu system for far too long. This alone is a significant upgrade in camera handling for the D300S compared to the D300, and by itself would merit the upgrade in my case.

I wish any of these cameras could be programmed so that the LCD info screen would come on automatically between shots as can be done with the D40-style bodies. I think buyers of higher-end bodies probably consider this an unnecessary or amateur feature, but in my opinion, that is not so at all! Especially when shooting on a tripod, the info screen is a much quicker and more complete information reference than the top LCD, and especially if ALL the settings could be set directly through it, this would be another extremely valuable aid to quick settings changes. Today's cameras have so many settings, and they need to be changed so often to get the best possible image, that anything Nikon could do to give users quicker access to more settings would be a step forward for photographers of any experience level.

Other major differences between the D90 and D300S are, in order of approximate decreasing importance to me, are: 1) Better focus system on D300 and D300S, 2) External buttons and switches to quickly change focus and meter settings on D300 and D300S, 3) Usefully quicker continuous shooting speed on D300 and even quicker on D300S (4.5fps for D90, 6fps for D300, 7fps for D300S), 4) Decently weather-sealed body on D300 and D300S, 5) Rugged pro build quality on D300 and D300S (comes at a cost, though, much larger and heavier), 6) AF fine-tuning on D300 and D300S. There are many more differences between the cameras than these, but these are the ones that matter to me.

There is one more biggie. The D300S, unlike either the D300 or D90 (or D700 for that matter), has two memory card slots, and I happen to love the fact that one holds an SD card and the other a CF card. Most pros prefer CF cards. I'm not a pro, and I prefer SD cards. What I love about this feature, though, is that there is a setting which allows the camera to write a jpeg to one card and a RAW file to the other. I shoot jpeg most of the time but RAW some of the time, and this is by far the easiest way to go between jpeg-only and jpeg-plus-RAW, while ALSO getting all the RAW shots segregated from the jpegs so that you can later decide either to discard them, or to download them to a different folder, at a different time, without any fancy file-download trickery. When not using this feature the second card can be set to duplicate or to overflow, although I would prefer there to be more flexibility as to which card does what function.

While the D300S is the "best" of these bodies in many ways, the features it has over the D90 are just not going to matter to everybody, and the D90 is smaller and lighter enough that it's very seriously worth considering if you don't need them. The D90 is one of the best-positioned, best bang for the buck bodies Nikon has yet made, while the D300S is a superb camera but gives diminishing returns for the dollar, and by the ounce, in comparison.

D300S vs D5000

I know beyond any doubt that there are a lot of photographers buying pro cameras that would be much better served with a smaller, easier to use, easier to carry and handle and store body, and if you can't decide whether to start slow or to go all-out with a pro body, you should really take a look at the D5000. In terms of its ability to capture any given image, the D5000 is the equal of the D300S, and only the time it takes to get that image, or the variety of lenses you can use to do so, really differs. The handling of the D300S, with its multiplicity of features and settings, is going to slow down, not speed up, the process for people who don't use the camera often enough to stay fluent in the layout of its controls and functions. The D5000 gives you much of the flexibility, all of the image quality, and less size, cost, and weight. I personally enjoy the smaller cameras very much. I prefer their smaller size and only use the larger, heavier bodies because they have capabilities the smaller bodies lack, and those capabilities are important to me. If those capabilities are of questionable importance to you, consider your needs carefully before you encumber yourself with their extra weight and extra expense.

Conclusion

I'm going to give the D300S a rating of four stars. Clearly it is only intended to be a minor upgrade with respect to the D300, and it uses the same now-aging sensor used in all these cameras, so it's natural to expect that it is not a blockbuster on the new camera scene. It's not intended to be: Nikon has been busy developing FX bodies and adding to its lens line over the past year or two. This particular corner of the lineup is getting a breather. It is a tremendously competent camera, the top DX body currently available from Nikon, and an excellent tool for the job of photography under almost all conditions. It would be surprising not to see an improvement on the subject of sensor technology within the coming months or year, which would be incorporated into a successor in time. I do think Nikon needs to get to work figuring out ways to make the control interfaces of today's pro cameras more intuitive to use. Better menu systems, more easily accessed; more flexibility in the use of the rear LCD to view and change settings; more flexibility in the enabling of custom menus and setting banks (which are useful but limited as currently implemented), would be high on my list of improvements. Nikon by its nature prefers to evolve its cameras incrementally over a period of years, and although that's a good strategy in some ways, other times it means we get stuck with "legacy" after-effects: backwards-reading meters, mechanical lens interfaces, and old style menu systems that have begun to overflow their banks. Some streamlining of the user experience would make the cameras easier, quicker and more flexible in use.

In a relative sense, though, those things remain nitpicks. The D300S is the best camera for my needs currently on the market.

Read Best Reviews of Nikon D300s 12.3MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II Lens Here

Bought this camera recently to replace the many years, but still trusty Nikon D200. Took both of them on a road trip recently and was extremely please with the Nikon D300s. The auto focus was super fast and accurate. The video feature was a nice bonus. While I wouldn't use it often, it does come in handy when I want to illustrate to my friends and families certain scenic views I come across.

The ability to shoot many frames per second and the auto focus system being able to keep up with it was beyond my own expectation. The picture quality and low level noise was nice. I was able to do ISO-1600 perfectly where I couldn't before using D200.

Highly recommend this camera to anyone.

Want Nikon D300s 12.3MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II Lens Discount?

I recently upgraded from the D80 to the D300s. I was actually saving up for the 300 and they released the 300s. This is the top of the line DX camera from Nikon which is loaded with features. I can't compare the 300 to the 300s and you can go on line to sites like Ken Rockwell to see a break down comparison. However, compared to my old D80 this camera was a big upgrade.

With the purchase of this camera I was quickly forced to learn more about photography and after about 3 weeks or so I can now say that I have a good understanding of the camera it's features and settings. The D80 has pre programmed shooting settings e.g. (landscape, nightshot, portrait, Auto etc.) which automatically sets everything for you. This camera really forces you to learn about photography. ISO's WB, shutter speed, aperature etc. If you are looking for a more user friendly camera with pre programmed setting I would go with the D90. If you want a more serious enthusiast to pro level camera than the D300s is your choice.

The D300s also has a video mode which in my opinion isn't half bad. However, if video is not that important to you I would go with a used D300 which you can probably get a great deal on. I've taken some video with this camera and the mic is very sensitive. I wouldn't try using the video for recording live shows which I did. Even at low sensitivity mic settings I had problems with the sound. The good thing is the 300s has an external mic connection. I believe the D90 does not. I haven't experimented with this feature.

Picture quality has been great! However, i've always been a firm believer that aside from the camera the lens plays a major role in picture quality. If you want superb pics I suggest investing in good lenses.

I use this camera mainly for sports and action photography. The D300s provides 7fps and with the external MB battery pack 8fps. My old D80 shot at 3-4fps. I have definitely seen a huge difference in this regard. This camera is super fast! I wanted a fast camera and this is exactly what I got.

So far so good and I'm really satisfied!

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Thursday, April 17, 2014

TRENDnet ProView PoE Network Surveillance Camera with 16x Digital Zoom TV-IP512P (White)

TRENDnet ProView PoE  Network Surveillance Camera with 16x Digital Zoom TV-IP512PLet me start by stating that I had to return this IP camera. The major reason is that it does not have exposure compensation and it has a manual focus. It is configured for indoor ambient light settings. Not too bright and not too dim. I also realized that the camera/CCD chip does not have a sufficient dynamic range to capure a scene with both bright and dard areas. If this is a requirement, then this camera will not perform for you.

The Trendnet software does provide image brightness controls but the controls appear to operate on the received image not setting the camera's exposure settings. Hence an over exposed image will remain overexposed.

TrendNet has Setup program on the CD which installs a setup program! This is rather confusing. Installation is clumsy but with patience, I got it configured. The Power over Ethernet worked perfectly.

Based on physical construction, including the pacement of the connectors, the TrendNet Camera appears to be a Dlink camera. In fact using Blue Iris Video Monitoring software, the camera responds as if it is a DLink DCS-3410 or 2102.

The focus is manual. A real PITA when you must mount it and then have someone monitor the video and keep farting with the focus. And given the 1-2 second delay in the video, its easy to keep missing the focus point.

Trendnet also provides a simple but good mounting bracket.

I also tried out their user support. I connected to a person relatively quickly. I offer them the opportunity to the tech support person to connect directly to the camera remotely which they declined (I configured port forwarding on my router). Their first fix for the over exposure was to place the camera in night mode!! What?? That would make it even more over exposed! They ignored my comment. Put me on hold and when they came back and she said it can't be used for viewing outside.

Perhaps I've been spoiled by the Toshiba line of IP cameras. They are a lot more expensive, but their engineering, software and hardware is top notch compared to TrendNet. So if your needs are for video where the lighting does not vary much from ambient indoor lighting, and you can only afford $200, this camera may work for you.

I have the 4x zoom model and it is easy to set up and use. I mounted mine in an outdoor camera housing to monitor the outside of my home. I have no trouble connecting to it from work and the picture is clear. The 4x zoom does cause the picture to get grainy (as expected), but I don't have much use for the zoom as I am looking for an overall view of the area. I had no trouble focusing the camera with my laptop connected to my home network any further and the delay would have made focusing a pain. The microphone works fine and I'm also satisfied with it's performance in low light. The low-watt bulb that I have in my porch light provides enough light for the camera to view the entire porch area late at night. When the motion flood lights are activated, there is more than enough light for the camera. This is a good choice for a basic internet security camera.

Buy TRENDnet ProView PoE  Network Surveillance Camera with 16x Digital Zoom TV-IP512P (White) Now

The quality of this camera is what you would expect for the price, regular. The default settings are not ok for use outdoor, and you can't change that unless you update the firmware of the device, which is what we did and after that i worked ok indoor and outdoor (we didn't knew that the firmware fixed this problem since we didn't find anything that suggested it but thanks to that we didn't have to return it or use it only indoor).

You can access the camera from any navigator (we tried IE, FF and Opera), but some advanced functions are only available in IE.

The zoom is not that useful since its just digital and the image resolution is not very good.

The software detects the camera without problem even if you don't know it's IP so it save us a couple of times from rebooting it.

We've tried for a few days now and everything seems ok even when using it with ddns.

Read Best Reviews of TRENDnet ProView PoE  Network Surveillance Camera with 16x Digital Zoom TV-IP512P (White) Here

Originally I purchased the TV-IP512P to use outside with an enclosure. It wasn't until AFTER I received it that the documentation states it's for indoor use. Indoors, it works great, though I use it to monitor remotely and picture quality isn't a big issue. I mounted the camera outside in the enclosure and as a few reviews have stated, the picture is blown out with outdoor light levels. I put a small piece of window tint over the enclosure window to reduce the light level and though it does take away from picture quality ever so slightly, the picture quality is still acceptable. I will be buying another for inside use in the near future.

****UPDATE****

After contacting Trendnet support about the light level for exterior use, I was told to do a firmware upgrade. After doing the upgrade, I had the option for indoor or outdoor use. Set on outdoor, I removed the tint I applied previously (to cut down the light level), and was pleased to find the picture is no longer washed out, and is FAR better than before. Next I'll be trying the IR500 infrared lens to see if visibility at night is increased.

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The good:

Easy to set up, works with standard POE switches. Mounts on top and bottom, comes with a right angle bracket. Web interface is nice and easy to use. Works with Zoneminder. JPG's upload to an FTP server just fine.

The bad:

Focus is a manual focus. I knew this going in, but i didn't realize how annoying it would be. My biggest gripe and the main reason for the low rating is that you can't browse the SD card through the camera interface. You have to take it out and put it in a pc to read it. To me this is unacceptable and had I known this I would never have purchased this camera.

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Saturday, February 22, 2014

Bell & Howell DNV16HDZ 1080p HD Video Camera Camcorder with Infrared Night Vision (Blue) with 1

Bell & Howell DNV16HDZ 1080p HD Video Camera Camcorder with Infrared Night Vision with 16GB Card + Case + Tripod + Wide Angle & Telephoto Lenses + Accessory KitTo be honest I was very shaky buying this camcorder because I could not find much info and reviews on in and also because I haven't herd of this brand. At one point I even debated canceling my order to buy a more expensive Sony, but it had already shipped… So I decided to give it a shot. Glad I did because it turns out to be a great little camcorder. The IR light is not bright at all so I ended up making one of my own.. well actually 3 and this made the entire camera 100x better when investigating. I did notice it had trouble focusing at times and I would highly suggest not leaving it on a tripod on night mode for over an hour without checking on it because it can gradually loose focus. It is great to carry due to its size. To be honest I have had the best luck simply zooming all the way out and taking it off the auto focus while roaming around in the dark. Sound for the most part is great. I have noticed a second or two of light static but only noticed it twice. The bundle they sent for 259 was a great deal! I would give 5 stars if it didn't struggle with the focus. Hay Bell and Howell.. please package this item with a IR light. Id rather have that than one of the lenses. Also I am not too sure where to find Batteries… which last a little over 2 hours. Software they send only allows you to watch the Video and snap pics which I had to use other programs to edit my footage.

If you want to build an IR light like I did I found this awesome guy that gives you step by step directings @

Thanks and hope this helps, happy hunting

Matt Hastings

Claro Paranormal Research

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS20 Waterproof Digital Camera (Orange) Kit. Includes: 8GB SDHC Memory Card, Me

Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS20 Waterproof Digital Camera Kit. Includes: 8GB SDHC Memory Card, Memory Card Reader & Table Top Tripod, LCD Screen Protectors, Hard Case & More!This is a great camera to have as an extra for vacations, parties etc when you don't want to bring a big one (we have a Canon Rebel as well). Picture quality is good, movies too. Its really waterproof, I took it snorkeling and got some good underwater shots.

The case it comes with is too small, hence the 4 stars, the other accessories are ok. There are probably cheaper models which are good, but I have had a good experience with my other Lumix.

Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Panasonic Pro AG-HMC150 3CCD AVCHD 24fps Camcorder

Panasonic Pro AG-HMC150 3CCD AVCHD 24fps CamcorderI received my 150 a little over a week ago. Bought it because I wanted to move up to HD and get out of the tape business. It did not come with an SDHC card. Bought an 8 GB to carry me over until my 16 GB cards arrive via Amazon. I am still on the learning curve on it. Especially liked the large comfortable color view eye piece. I was also amazed by the clarity of the video play back on my 48" LCD screen. Used the three cable output first, that came with the camera( Video, Lt. Rt. Audio )

Very clear video, much clearer than my trusty old Canon GL-2 It does not come with an HDMI cable. Bought one locally and tried it. Plugged one end into the HDMI out port on the camera and the other end into the HDMI port of my TV. I was blown away by how clear it was !! The video was clearer than some of the stations I view in HD.

On playback, you are given a thumbnail of the first frame of each scene you shot when you turned the camera on. On playback, you can skip around the scenes you want to view , or delete if needed. The focus assist is another nice feature. When you use it, it momentarily zooms in on the middle of your next shot so that you can fine focus if needed.

It has many other features that I have not tried yet. On editing, bought the Pinnacle 12 Ultimate because it is set up to handle the AVHCD format and a PC with the AMD quad Phenom processor with 3 GB of RAM. Waiting for a more powerful graphics card to arrive before trying to edit in this new format. The battery that came with it is small. Would recommend buying the larger battery as soon as you can to balance it out. Right now, it feels a little out of balance because of the smaller battery. Also liked the solid magnesium body. No plastic anywhere ! Overall, I am impressed with this camera.

Panasonic AG-HMC150

I shoot weddings and I have used The HMC150, the Canon AH1.

From the beginning let me first tell you where my opinion is coming from price tag: $3500

First off, neither of these cameras are brilliant in low light. They have 1/3 imagers. I don't care if they are made of gold and there are ten of them.

1/3 imagers are too small to gather enough light, even if you attached the Hubbell telescope to them.

To put such tiny sensors in a $3500 is poor, cheap engineering especially when SLR have larger sensors, shoot HD and don't cost this much.

Who are these camera angled at?

Videographers and indie filmmakers.

As a videographer what are you most concerned with Low light.

Why? Because you cannot control lights at weddings at parties, etc. So your camera has to be able to handle it.

As an Indie filmmaker what are you most concerned with The ability to look like film. It does, with 24p and film gamma, it's about all you need. But you are paying a premium. But for me, equally important to film look as 24fps is lens choice. Here you get none. While 24fps is what is ingrained in the everyone's consciousness as what film should look like, they also don't realize that shallow depth of field and variety of lenses is too. With these camcorders you get no choice, a 13x zoom with extremely wide depth of field at most every focal distance, because it's a zoom and because the imagers are tiny.

Good news The AG-HMC150 can handle most lighting situations.

Bad news AVCHD codec, is noisy in even bright sunlight afternoons. The image is made of blotch.

Measuring image integrity by zoom factor at 100% AVCHD compression is clearly visible. 200% the image is a swarming, infected mess.

Although the Panny can holdup in low light. I shot in a dark club and there was still something to see.

It has a very weird auto iris mode, that brings in more light, even when you do exact settings in manual.

Don't know if there is a magic switch, didn't have it long enough to work everything out.

The Canon uses HDV and instead of compression codec noise, you get digital noise; unpleasant grain (not like film), and washed out video at 100%. At 200% it's like looking at a digital still from a 10 year old point and shoot. And trust me, once an image is washed out and grainy, there is very little you can do (Some gamma correction will bring the shadows back to life, but that noise is there to stay. And the drop down to SD doesn't do it any favors.

Bottom line the Canon sucks in low light, especially in anything other than auto mode. I shot in a low light room and the image was garbage. Despite some settings tweaking, which leads me to Canon's second biggest problem and a problem with these camcorders in general.

The LCD and the Viewfinder are too small to see how your image is holding up. Everything looked fabulous on the Canon's 2.7 LCD...and then when you get it back to edit. Noise city. So you can only use the LCD for just basic image checking.

The HMC150 has a 3.5 LCD, but the brilliant engineers made it a 4:3 ratio! You have black matting in the image! The camera can only shoot 16x9 and they put a 4x3 LCD on it...so in the end you only get about 2.7" of real estate and you see as much as on the Canon, unless you are in focus assist mode which zooms in and uses the whole LCD.

So you have to know your settings and be shutter/iris paranoid, hoping for the best image. What you see is not what you get, you have to know what you want, like with film and set the camera accordingly, knowing which settings will get you want in the END, not what you are looking at through the camera.

The HMC150 definitely benefits from the higher rez. The Canon is 1440x1080. You can see the difference.

The Canon is more professionally built. Both plastic, but the canon feels more professional, and weirdly the HMC feels like a Tonka Toy, hard textured plastic, but like a light and chunky toy. I can hear the optical stabilizer clunking around in it. The Canon aesthetically looks more professional.

Audio on the Canon is better, it has much better limiter, I don't even think the HMC's is useful, but if you plug one xlr mic into the Canon...the onboard becomes unusable. HMC lets you assign channels for the onboard. Bad news is the onboard mic on both sucks, the Canon sounds better because the HDV format has higher rez than the compressed AVCHD codec.

The HMC and it's tapeless/AVCHD codec does not save much time, the transcoding takes almost as long if not longer than real time (HDV tape) and sometimes there are errors, especially transferring from camera, the footage speeds up, the audio remains constant and you have shorter clips. Happened constantly. My guess, USB and it's non constant data rate. Another cheap short cut by Panasonic. The Canon has a firewire, which speed is constant, and they need it for the HDV tapes.

The HMC wins out with higher rez, native progressive imagers, resulting in two true progressive modes, 24fps, the other mode/rez are wrapped in pulldowns. The Canon's 24f, etc modes are fake and you can tell. Everything is interlaced on the Canon. I hate interlaced.

This review isn't structured very well, but I don't have the energy, since I'm so unenthusiastic about both, so they're not worth more time. But I thought I would let potential buyers know, the ones who think these two cameras are the Holy Grail. They aren't, and they aren't worth the high price tag, they are worth $2000 not a penny more. But the problem is, what else is there?

I returned the HMC, and I didn't the Canon wasn't mine, but would have returned it too.

I'm going to try the Canon SLR route. The closest thing you can get to film without shooting it.

Annoyingly these two manufacturers and Sony...are all sticking it to us. Instead of advancing things, they are taking baby steps, giving us one desired function at a time for a price.

If Canon can put a full frame sensor in their 5d II and can give it 1920x1080 30fps shooting, why can't they put that sensor in a camcorder, with a SLR interchangeable lens mount, with XLR inputs?

Because they want to sell camcorders AND slr cameras.

These camcorders are just big consumer cams. They don't have enough image improvement to warrant $2500+ more in cost. You are paying for features, limited manual adjustments, not image upgrade.

But of course I didn't have it for very long, two weeks.

I just couldn't get over the price versus video quality, and workflow.

They don't justify the price, especially when I think we are very close to getting some real breakthroughs in HD imaging.

Buy Panasonic Pro AG-HMC150 3CCD AVCHD 24fps Camcorder Now

One thing you need to keep in mind is that editing AVCCam/AVCHD is a P.I.T.A. I'm using CS4 on a 2.4 quadcore with 8gig of RAM and Vista64 and it's sluggish with frequent lockups. I'm getting Cineform ProspectHD v4 when it comes out to compensate. Vegas 8.0c and Edius works well I'm told, and FCP need to convert it to ProRes (or whatever it's called). I think Avid needs to convert it to a native codec as well. Panasonic does offer a free converter to DVCProHD on there website

[Update 6/5/09... Premiere CS4 4.1 update is out, and editing is much easier. Also, Prospect v4 is out, and editing with the demo I've been trying has been a joy]

That said... the camera itself is awesome. Really. I'm coming from the DVX, and this is leaps and bounds above that (which is saying something). The images I'm getting are beautiful. I'm planning on going out now on my days off to shoot just for the fun of it.

I really can't add anything that hasn't been said already by others. But if you're looking at the HVX200a or HPX170 (they all share the same chips, and the HMC shares the same glass as the HPX), but don't want to deal with the costs of P2 or need all of the features of the HPX or HVX, I would HIGHLY recommend buying this instead.

Just be prepared for some editing headaches at first (the problem with bleeding edge technology is sometimes you need to get stitches).

Read Best Reviews of Panasonic Pro AG-HMC150 3CCD AVCHD 24fps Camcorder Here

I knew I would have to do it sooner or later. Even shooting Super 16mm is (a) too expensive and (b) too heavy. I have seen so many good documentary films that originated on HDV or AVCHD based camcorders that I thought I should really make an effort to go digital.

As it happened, I attended a Panasonic seminar that convincingly touted the value of a modern H.264 type codec for the "filmakers" vision. So the Sony and Canon alternatives were effectively eliminated as options by the smooth presentations given by Panasonic. This left the choice of cameras down to the HMC40 (cheaper and lighter) or the HMC150. Both can do the things I need to do (24P being a requirement)and both are designed to create a "film-like" look to the image.

My choice of the HMC150 was based on the feeling that 3 1/3" imagers are going to be less noisy than the 3 1/4" imagers installed in the newer HMC40 camera. I did not do any side-by-side comparison testing but I am guessing that I am correct in this assumption although the degree of difference may not be noticeable in the final image.

It has been about two months that I have been using this camera. What it can stuff into a tiny SD memory card is amazing to me. The images have been outstanding for a television camera and really not too bad for a cinema camera. I miss interchangeable lenses and controllable depth of field but I don't miss changing the magazine after a few takes and I dont miss heavy battery packs and Nagra sound recorders.

I did find that the manual iris control on the camera is impossible to use while shooting and that manual focus is also clumsly and can create sound noise while filming if you are using the on-board mic or even the mounted shotgun. The simple solution was a Vari-zoom remote and that fixed the two biggest operational problems I had.

The camera was packed with GVG's Edius Neo. That works a treat with AVCHD and as long as you have a decent modern laptop with sufficent speed and memory, it is fast enough to operate and to render out edit files to disk or SD card. I prefer to have the final finishing completed by a real editor (probably using FCP) but I can manage the rough edits with Edius without too many problems.

So, I am not sorry. This is the first digital cinema type camera that I have purchased and it will probably be the gateway drug to a Red One or something like that. I miss film but if you are not making a feature film with multiple rented 35mm cameras (paid for by someone else), why not use a camera like the HMC150? The cost of the hardware is more than offset when compared to running a S16mm camera to create 60 minutes of finished projectable film. SD cards are cheap. Digital projectors are getting better and DI from inexpensive digital cameras to 35mm film neg is possible if the content is good enough to justify the cost.

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Much has been said, but I'll add a bit. We use this camera for live events and produced videos. Here's what we've learned in 6 months.

1) Buy the 150. We also have the 40 which does what the 150 does, but for pro use, the features are slow and cumbersome to access on the HMC40.

2) Great if you use Adobe Premier C6. Not so much if you use Final Cut Pro 7. We have both. Premier is native to AVCHD. With Final Cut, the transcoding is almost worse than tape ingestion. With Premier, you can preview the videos easily, edit them easily, and you aren't so dependent on rendering.

3) Watch the errors. We had one interview error after 45 minutes and lost it. It's the first in 7 months of usage, but we lost about $4000 worth of footage. Panasonic has a recovery tool, but it didn't work. We were using a Transcend card (cheaper) on that shoot, so we won't do that again. We'll go back to Sandisk.

4) Low light is much worse than SD, but I guess all HD is. It works for us because we light everything. Wouldn't work if you don't have lighting control.

5) We really wish it had a 20x zoom. The 13x is a compromise from our old 100A's.

We'll probably buy another one, but we're waiting to see if Cannon comes out with an SD card based HD camera.

Saturday, November 16, 2013

Sony Handycam HDR-CX350V AV Cable - TV Video Cord for Sony Handycam HDR-CX350V

Sony Handycam HDR-CX350V AV Cable - TV Video Cord for Sony Handycam HDR-CX350VThe cable was just as described and worked great for our event! We were able to both record from the camera and project the image onto a screen via projector.

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Sunday, October 27, 2013

Pentax K-30 Weather Sealed Digital SLR Camera with AL WR 18-55mm Lens (White) with 32GB Card + Case

Pentax K-30 Weather Sealed Digital SLR Camera with AL WR 18-55mm Lens with 32GB Card + Case + Battery + Flash + Tripod + Filter + Telephoto & Wide-Angle Lenses + Accessory KitGreat camera!!! The tripod is nice but probably not sturdy enough for a big heavy lens. The reason I give it a 4 is because the extra attachment lens that it come with aren't worth even having and the case is just OK but I wish I had a better shoulder bag.

Friday, October 11, 2013

Joby GP1-D1EN Gorillapod Flexible Tripod (Grey)

Joby GP1-D1EN Gorillapod Flexible TripodHOW BIG IS YOUR CAMERA? This is a great product, but if you buy one that's too weak to hold your camera's weight, you're going to be disappointed. The GP1 will hold up to 9.7 ozbasically your average small point-and-click digital camera onlythink Elph. The GP2 will hold up to 1.75 lbs -smaller/lighter SLR cameras with short lenses only. The GP3 will hold up to 6.6 lbs and has a slightly larger camera attach point, similar to larger tripods -good for SLRs and smaller camcorders. Unless you want to spend 10-15 minutes fighting the gorilla to hold your camera without sagging (and forget about portrait/sideways shots), make sure you buy one that can support the weight! Otherwise it's tough to beat the versatility, reliability, and small size/weight of this tripod. From what I've seen of other reviews, you'll be disappointed with cheaper imitations as well.

Fantastic product. We bought this while looking for one of those mini tripods that you can velcro to another object and found this to be much better. The grip is strong and most situations can be accommodated. It's a little pricey, but well made so very much worth the cost. Older, heavier cameras may tend to overwhelm it in some positions, but for the most part, it works great. If nothing else, it replicates a "traditional" tripod well, and the added bending and gripping feature really makes the difference. I no longer have to balance the camera on the hood of the car with sticks and rocks to get a good photo of us during our travels. Everywhere we go, somebody stops us to ask where to get one... it's quite a spectacle.

I ordered an extra shoe so we can transfer the gorillapod from her camera to mine. If you're in the market for a new camera, try and get one with the tripod mounting shoe somewhat centrally located on the bottom of the camera. My fiance's camera has the tripod mount on one side so the camera wants to lean to the other side. Fortunately, the gorillapod is strong enough to resist this.

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I still can't believe that this thing is real! And I'm blown away by the quality of the tripod.

The 'legs' are stiff enought that it doesn't fall out of shape as it holds the camera. Each little grey ring around the ball-like pieces are rubberized to help it grip onto objects. I have been able to mount my Canon SD600 and hold one 'foot' of the tripod while it remains in the shape I bent it into. The leg didn't change shape or sag at all.

I've had it on top of my LCD, hung it from a doorway, sitting on top of a lamp... I think the legs are long enough and the feet are 'grippy' enough to mount it to the side of a bowling ball!

The clip on top lets you mount and dismount the camera quite easily and without hassle. The only problem I could see is that with the mounting clip attached to the camera I can't put the camera in the fitted Canon carrying case that I have for the SD600. Well, it fits with it on, but very snug.

I can't stress how much I love this little tripod!! Get one; you won't be disappointed!

Read Best Reviews of Joby GP1-D1EN Gorillapod Flexible Tripod (Grey) Here

I own a Canon PowerShot A550. The Gorillapod screws into the camera securely. The downside is that on the Canon (and Sony Cybershot DSC also) the screw is not in the center of the camera, but off to the left (if looking at the back of the camera). This off-set causes the camera to "slump" to the right because it's off-balance. To make matters worse, the button to take the photo is on the right, so if you get the camera to balance on the Gorillapod, you still have to press the button to take the photo, which causes the camera to slump then to the right.

The 2 ball-like connectors that connect the camera to the 3 legs on the Gorillapod don't seem to have enough resistance to keep a small camera like the Canon in place.

My mother-in-law has a Sony Cybershot DSC which is small enough and light enough to not slump, so she will probably be getting the Gorillapod to use with her camera.

I love the idea and was excited to get it and try it out. Doesn't work for me like I expected and my point and shoot isn't big at all. I would have thought the design would have taken into consideration that the point and shoot cameras don't always have the screw hole in the middle of the camera.

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As long as you don't expect the world of the Gorillapod, it won't disappoint. I've had a slew of small tripods for years (to match my succession of digital cameras; I'm tough to please). My Ultrapod II is good, sturdy and stable, but often not as versatile as this. I'll still keep that one around, though, especially after I got the quick-release head for it. For me, a quick-release shoe is a very big plus. My full-size tripods have always had this feature, but I've never been able to find it on the minis until the Gorillapod. It's extremely useful. No more struggling with screwing the tripod in when you need to take that quick picture, desperately trying to keep from cross-threading and stripping the plastic mounting threads common on today's cameras. The Gorillapod snaps onto the camera in about three seconds. This won't hold my camera as still as my 4-pound tripods, but it's a heck of a lot lighter and easier to carry with me all the time. While Joby lists the maximum weight capacity as 12 ounces, my camera still works fine despite being a couple of ounces over that. If there's one thing I don't really like, it's that it does take a bit of fiddling to straighten out the legs after use. But if you're not obsessively neat, you probably won't mind some slightly crooked legs. If you really want a bit more stability, see the Gorillapod SLR. A quarter pound heavier and twice the price, but when you need it, sometimes you need to bite the bullet. Or get the Ultrapod II if having superflexible legs isn't of paramount importance. That's a couple of ounces heavier still compared with the Gorillapod SLR, but its rigid construction and Velcro strap make it more secure in iffy conditions.

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Thursday, October 3, 2013

X-Rite EODIS3 i1Display Pro

X-Rite EODIS3 i1Display ProList of relevant hardware:

Apple 15.4-inch MacBook Pro MC723LL/A (hi-res antiglare)

Dell 24-inch UltraSharp U2410

Apple LED Cinema Display 27-Inch MC007LL/A

2007 Apple MacBook

I am a software engineer by trade, a photography enthusiast (Canon DSLR with Aperture) and a home video editor (Canon AVCHD with Final Cut Pro) at nights and weekends. I have been using a borrowed Spyder3Pro (S3P for short), which is a reference for this review.

X-Rite is perhaps the largest name in color matching products. It owns PANTONE and makes some of the most respected products. i1 Display Pro (i1D Pro for short) is its latest offering. The hardware is about the size of a memory card reader and smaller than S3P. Unlike S3P, i1D Pro has only the counterweight, lacking suction cups. The counterweight can be moved along the entire cable run. Counterweight is fine for most computer displays, but unusable when calibrating very large HDTV that some people use as a monitor or for HTPC (you will need to hold i1D Pro with your hand over 2 minute calibration run).

All in all, i1D Pro feels substantial and more high-end than S3P. It has a built-in diffuser to measure ambient light and it is capable of calibrating CRT, LCD (CCFL, variations of LED), and even projectors. It has a flare correction feature to compensate for glossy flat screen displays, such as 27" LED Cinema Display.

iD Pro includes i1Profiler software that runs on both Windows (untested) and Mac (tested on 10.7 Lion). Installation was mostly uneventful (and no reboot required), although it did prompt to me update to 1.1.1 (from 1.1.0) and register and activate the product (it otherwise becomes a 30-day trial demo app). The app resembles Apple's Aperture. Coming from S3P and television calibration experiences, I am pretty familiar with the art of display calibration and profiling. So I found the app to be fairly straightforward. Unlike S3P software, i1Profiler can calibrate luminance level as well.

I used advanced mode to calibrate all 4 displays. First, using the app's white patch measurement feature, I set luminance on my displays to as close to 100 cd/m2 as possible (by tinkering with brightness and/or contrast). 100 cd/m2 is below industry's recommended 120-140 range, but I find 120 to be just too darn bright.

The manual and online help are on the inadequate side, so if you are not familiar with profiling, you may want to visit the support section on X-Rite's website to get additional clarification. On the positive side, aside from selecting backlighting type (CCFL and white LED in my case) and luminance level, default recommended values are all good and should be ideal for all but advanced users with discriminating needs.

2 minutes later, I got ICC profiles with better color saturation, more accurate color, more natural whites, and/or deeper black level than S3P (when looking at before and after for various RAW files). The differences are sometimes subtle, but never worse and generally better. Comparing results to Mac OS X's default ICC profiles is much more dramatic, which tends to be very blue with limited color saturation and contrast level. Mac OS X's calibration mode can yield better results than the default, but still dramatically worse than i1D Pro's profiles.

On multi-monitor setup, dragging i1Profiler app from one display to another will let you calibrate other displays. The app can also measure your monitor for uniformity and color accuracy.

That said, the application did crash few times and UI is a bit unrefined here and there. For instance, all important measure button is often hidden, requiring a scroll down. Help icon next to some controls do not reveal any hints of any kind.

A companion piece is i1Profiler Tray, which can run continuously to remind you to recalibrate and uses i1D Pro to adjust for change in ambient light as needed. I am not a fan of ambience compensation, but it does work much better than Apple's built-in feature.

Also included is PANTONE Color Manager software.

I have owned this product for about 2 weeks now and here are my experiences with it. This monitor calibrator is truly fantastic when it comes to its manin purpose calibrating colors on your monitor it is extremely accurate and the process is much faster than any other calibrator I've seen out there. I really enjoy the automatic profile adjustment feature based on the current ambient light conditions, kudos to that.

However, my review is 3 star only because the software is really, really buggy on OS X Lion. In order for the ambient light adjustment to work, there is a small utility called iProfiler that runs in the background. This utility (I've downloaded the latest version from X-Rite web site which is v1.2.0) has a memory leak problem the memory consumption grows from 20 Mb to 800 Mb in less than 24 hrs (monitoring utilizing iStats). I have contacted X-Rite technical support and they are aware of this issue and have recommended turning off this feature. As such I cannot utilize this unit to its full capacity, and I am somewhat disappointed for the premium price I've paid for this product, I would expect a premium quality software.

Buy X-Rite EODIS3 i1Display Pro Now

I've been using an olde i1 color calibrator for years, and even though the original maker was swallowed by XRite, they have been supporting the no-longer-sold device until now. No joke, XRite sent me an email about upcoming OSX Lion compatibility of that specific software just last week six years after my purchase! So when I had the opportunity to review the current flagship model of a company that takes care of its customers, I jumped on the opportunity.

The device is thoughtfully made: Its big lens is protected by a diffuser which swivels off for measuring and also acts as a stand, and there is protective felt so not to scratch your monitor. Definitely an upgrade from the plasticky feel and clipon protector on my old device! It's a bit odd that the i1Pro goes on the monitor with its narrower edge rather than flat like the others I know of, so you have to make extra sure that it sits flushly. But it's no big deal.

As for documentation: there isn't any, unless you count the little leaflet which tells you to install the software before plugging in the meter. Speaking of the installer, it puts on Pantone software as well by default, without a word about what it does or whether you need it. It's some sort of color management which retails for $40, but not pertinent to monitor calibration. I suppose this is one aspect of a "Pro" package, but at the risk of appearing amateurish, I think a manual if not a tutorial would have been in order at this price point.

There were some additional hurdles to get the software to work on my system: on an WinXP machine (I know, not the newest) it would crash upon PC boot, and I had to consult the FAQ and download two updates from XRite's web site. Also, the generated profiles didn't "take" initially, which caused various uninstalls of drivers, etc. It took me a few hours to sort out that the Intel custom control panel had to go but "XRGamma" had to remain in the Win Startup folder.

The software has an Easy Mode which requires only two things: your monitor's backlight technology (CFL, LED, Wide-Gamut), and your preferred illuminant... yeah, not much help about the latter either, and the default is D65 ("sun at noon") which seemed too blue to me. I eventually went with D55 ("Viewing booth"). The Advanced Mode lets you do more things like ambient light readings, a monitor uniformity test, and flare compensation (for those glossy displays) those may be a little over the top for a hobbyist, but I can see how this would be beneficial in a small graphic outfit, weeding out lemon monitors and calibrate imaging work stations to a tee. The license is quite open to such a use by the way: all it states is that you have to own the monitors.

The process is FAST. My old colorimeter mucked around for at least 15 minutes, but this one is done after two. And I believe it made a much better profile than the old (cheaper) one: pictures look better from the start now, and the color space is larger when viewed at in Microsoft's color applet.

In short, the i1Display Pro works well. The lack of documentation is shameful and the software isn't perfect yet, BUT I think the i1 pro has a serious edge over cheaper colorimeters in speed and accuracy.

Read Best Reviews of X-Rite EODIS3 i1Display Pro Here

I am a part-time professional photographer who shoots only RAW (of course), with custom white balance, and in the Adobe RGB color space. Color is imperative to me all the way through the process even though the majority of clients seem to only view images on computer monitor's these days, which of course is a normally horrible method (consumer end) for viewing quality images. Either way, I do not mind spending money for quality color management. In this regard, I still cannot believe how expensive this item is compared to other proven solutions.

I used this product on a Dell U2410 monitor in the Adobe RGB color space in a dual monitor setup. I found the software a little clunky on a Windows 7 system w/ 16 GB of RAM. It could have had something to do with my pre-existing installation of Datacolor's Spyder 3 color calibration system. The manual leaves much to be desired, but that is an ongoing trend among all manufacturers. The lens on the device is among the biggest I have seen. The increased lens size is becoming standard among all manufacturers these days. The easy mode calibration only requires minimal information to achieve calibration whereas the advanced mode incorporates ambient light, flare adjustment, and some other features most people will never use. I will say that compared to my Datacolor, calibration is lightning fast with this device and dead on in terms of accuracy. Datacolor only yields slightly different results which could be owed to the subjectivity of viewing (we all see color differently by the way).

Is this device necessary and/or is it worth paying for? Well, clearly once you get beyond the point and shoot level of photography, color balance (and white balance) should be priorities. However, most people who do not study a color balanced workflow, will screw up somewhere. One screw up, and your final images could potentially end up worse than when you started (i.e. forgetting to convert from Adobe RGB to SRGB for monitor display). If you decide to go color managed, you are either all in or out; there is no half way. So, if you take the time, color calibration is critical. But, there are cheaper alternatives I would start with. The end difference between this device and a cheaper version (not too cheap) is minimal and barely, if at all, noticed.

Butit is a great color calibrator beyond doubt.

PSBefore installing or using this device DISABLE ALL COLOR MANAGEMENT applications including any System controls such as Intel color management. Also, visit the X-rite website for latest software release and update your graphics card driver if you don't already do that on a regular basis. I would also do a system reboot.

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I'm a professional HDTV calibrator with over $20,000 invested in equipment and training so I was a bit skeptical that this relatively inexpensive device would do the job. While it can't compare to the absolute accuracy of my professional equipment it's certainly a viable alternative for the DIY home theater enthusiast and a far better solution than using a calibration DVD to adjust your new HDTV to deliver optimum video performance. It's relatively easy to use and the results are a definite and substantial improvement compared to how most displays come adjusted (or not adjusted as is often the case) from the factory. So, if you don't want to spend the $$$ to hire a professional this Xrite unit is the next best thing and you can use it to "tune up" every display in your house. A good investment for anyone who wants better pictures.

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Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Canon VIXIA HFS10 HD Dual Flash Memory w/32GB Internal Memory & 10x Optical Zoom - 2009 MODEL

Canon VIXIA HFS10 HD Dual Flash Memory w/32GB Internal Memory & 10x Optical Zoom - 2009 MODELI have owned a small wedding videography company for 5 years and after using this camera for a week I am incredibly pleased with it. If you want the smallest camcorder you can get without sacrificing video quality in any way, than this is the camcorder for you. I am amazed at how small this thing is while still having a professional grade lens. This is the same Canon lens as on their GL2 which is probably the most popular entry level professional camcorder ever (which I have owned for a few years).

Pros:

1.) Professional camera lens with superb HD video quality (even in low light situations). I cannot express enough how amazing the pictures look.

2.) 32 GB of internal Flash memory (This is the only difference from the HFS100)

A.) Flash memory is instant. No waiting for tapes to wind or hard drives to spin.

B.) Flash memory helps keep the camera small.

C.) Flash memory protects data from being lost due to the camera being dropped or hit (a real problem with hard drive cameras).

3.) The still picture quality, even with the built in flash, is unbelievable for a camcorder. I feel like I am shooting with my Rebel XTi.

4.) I love the auto open and close lens cover. It only opens when you are actually shooting. If the camera is off or if you are reviewing it immediately closes.

5.) Menus are very easy to navigate.

Cons:

1.) Doesn't come with an HDMI cable. Since it doesn't take a normal sized HDMI cable I think there is no excuse for that.

2.) Doesn't come with a battery charger. You either have to spend $50 to get one or recharge batteries using the camcorder itself.

3.) $200 more than the HFS100 for only 32GB of internal storage is way too much. Should have only cost an extra $100. Unless you need to be able to record more than 2.5 hours of shooting without changing SDHC cards, then get the HFS100 because 32GB class 6 SDHC cards only cost $100.

4.) Only comes with the BP-809 battery which doesn't even last an hour. So you will need to buy the BP-827 which costs another $150. The BP-827 does stick out from the back just a slight bit, but not even an inch and is totally not noticeable nor does it add any real weight.

5.) 10X optical zoom is a little slim for my liking. I am used to 20X.

This camcorder is basically a professional lens barrel with an LCD on the side which gives you the best picture quality possible while keeping the size incredibly small. I cannot encourage you enough to get this camcorder though I would advise the HFS100 over this to save a little money. Remember, the HFS100 is the identical camcorder except it does not have internal memory.

Canon VIXIA HFS100 HD Flash Memory Camcorder w/10x Optical Zoom

The Vixia HFS10 is an upgrade for me, coming from the Canon VIXIA HG20 AVCHD 60 GB HDD Camcorder with 12x Optical Zoom. I've been enjoying the HG20 for a few months now, so being able to dig in to the new features on a 2009 model camera has been a real treat.

Right off the bat, the video image quality on the HFS10 is incredible. Hands down, the best I have ever used. Facial recognition is blazing fast and accurate, even when people are moving reasonably fast. Recording in low light indoors produces bright and clear results. Recording in very bright light outdoors produces a razor-sharp picture with virtually no halo effects or bleeding. This is where Canon really shows off the new Digic 3 processor.

The 10X optical zoom is smooth, and doesn't lose focus easily when zooming in and out. However, at this price point, 10X is certainly on the lower end of the spectrum of what's available. While that's disappointing, the image stabilization definitely makes up for it. At full zoom, the image stabilization compensates for normal "jitters" exceedingly well.

On the still image side, the Digic 3 is able to bring some nice surprises, as well. The "real" pop-up flash works better than expected for indoor shots. For most point-and-shoot scenarios, the HFS10 will stomp all over Canon Elph cameras, and comes pretty close to what you'd expect from a PowerShot (albeit, at a different overall resolution).

Again, the image stabilization really shines with still pictures. But one thing I did notice, is that the HFS10 seems to do "strange things" with still images in low light. Things that should have halos (e.g. sunsets) don't, even with different CP and UV filters.

Speaking of filters, the HFS10 has a 58mm lens barrel. So, you have tons and tons of filter options at every imaginable price point. Out of habit, I threw on a SUNPAK CF-7034 UV Ultra-Violet Filter that I had lying around my SLR gear bag along with a spare cap. Though I'm not real big on Tiffen glass, I also tried out a Tiffen 58MM Circular Polarizer, which produced really interesting results with some nature videos.

Anyone who has used a previous generation Vixia or Canon still camera will feel right at home with the menu system. The layout is basically the same, and functions are right where you'd expect them to be. For those not familiar with Canon cameras, getting used to the menu system is very easy.

The only thing that really took some adjustment was using the "time machine" feature that lets you go back and record something that happened three seconds in the past. It works flawlessly, but adjusting to the delay in the viewfinder was really difficult for me to get used to.

Also new for this year: logical port placement, and decent quality port protectors! The HDMI, USB, and component connectors are on the right side of the camera and have a sturdy plastic door to protect them, instead of the flimsy rubberized plugs on last year's models (and they're no longer behind the LCD!). Strangely, Canon has chosen to move the battery release behind the LCD, making it a bit awkward to switch out batteries.

The included Canon BP-807/808 battery consistently gives about 90 minutes of continuous use. I was happy to see that last year's batteries are compatible, so I've been using a Canon BP-819, which gives just over 200 minutes. Although the BP-819 is a larger battery, it's almost flush with the back of the camera when installed.

Of course, the included software is trash. I installed it for the sake of reviewing it, but really, if you're looking to spend this kind of money on a camera, you owe it to yourself to spend another couple hundred on decent video editing software. As a Mac user, iMovie does a passable job, but takes forever to do its various conversions from AVCHD. I stepped up to Final Cut Express 4, which works perfectly with this camera. Of course, there are many options for Windows users as well.

The biggest shortcoming -and this is huge if you travel with a laptop -is that Canon still seems married to the idea that you can't export pictures or video from the internal memory without plugging in to AC power. I can't for the life of me figure out the logic behind this. If you have a fully charged BP-819 (or even an 807, for that matter!), that's not nearly enough power to copy over some still pictures, in Canon's estimation. Of course, you can save everything to SD and just pop the card out, or do camera-to-card-to-computer copies, but it's ridiculous that you can't import ANYTHING from the internal memory without being plugged in to a wall.

Were it not for that, I'd be comfortable overlooking the other minor imperfections and giving this a solid 5 stars. And, if you're not planning on doing more than recording and watching your videos when you're away from home, consider this a 5-star review. But if you're planning on uploading a few videos and / or pictures while you're on vacation (or something more professional, like mobile editing), don't plan on doing it without access to AC power.

All things considered, though, if I was looking for a camera in this price range, The Vixia HFS10 is the first and only camera that would be on my list.

Buy Canon VIXIA HFS10 HD Dual Flash Memory w/32GB Internal Memory & 10x Optical Zoom - 2009 MODEL Now

I exchanged a Sony HDR 500v for this camcorder after getting a loud hissing sound from the sony. That gave me a chance to actually play with the sony a little bit before returning it. In a few words if you are familiar with manual controls in photography, you'll love the Vixia (which is my case). If you need something simpler, point-and-shoot-kind-of devise, go with the sony. I'm a professional photographer who does video for fun and I absolutely like the amount of manual controls this camera offers. (The sony didn't even have a sound level meter that you could turn on! A must if you use a second mic.)

It also has this 'springy' on-screen-menu that allows you to change your recording settings in as little as two steps. Very very helpful, again for the person who likes manual controls.

Another feature which I really like is the fact that they placed the remote control sensor on the LCD viewer, which allows you to use the remote control to actually record from any position as long as you have a direct view of the LCD screen. The sony has the remote sensor in the front which forces you to be in front of the camera if you want to activate the recording (almost impossible when you are anywhere but in front of the camera). For example if you mount your camera on a monopod when you need to get a shot over a crowd of people, and your fingers cant reach the record button because it is too high, with the sony is impossible to use the remote to do this because the sensor is in front of the camera even if you have very long arms you still are going to have a hard time making it record. Both Canon and Sony removed the LANC input on these new cameras so there is no way to operate them remotely with wired LANC controls. So in the canon as long as you have the LCD facing you then you can use the remote control to start/stop recording.

And one more little thing which I think is great is the ability to turn the recording light off. (The red light you see in the front of cameras) This is great because some people get uncomfortable when they know they are being recorded. When they think the camera is off they act natural and thus you get better expressions in your video.

Read Best Reviews of Canon VIXIA HFS10 HD Dual Flash Memory w/32GB Internal Memory & 10x Optical Zoom - 2009 MODEL Here

Canon VIXIA HFS10 is currently the top-of-the-line Canon consumer camcorder. It takes very good quality full HD video (one of the best among consumer level camcorders). The optical image stabilization is very useful and face detection is accurate. Autofocus is very fast and the menu system is intuitive. Low light capability is decent (but improved a lot by using the video light for video recording or internal flash for taking photos). The pre-recording mode is very useful for shooting sport, action, fireworks, child and other scenarios where it is often hard to predict when those Kodak moments will exactly be until it has happened/passed. It also has filter thread so you can install lens filter to enhance the video/image and to protect the lens. The LCD is very sharp and clear from wide viewing angle. It has a dual shooting mode where video recording and photo taking can be done without switching settings.

Taking photos with Canon VIXIA HFS10 is also very good. Image quality is very sharp with 8.59-megapixel CMOS image sensor that is also found in Canon DSLR. Taking photos in continuous mode is also very good (about 4 frames per second, comparable to DSLR cameras), however, the shutter response is nowhere near the DSLR (it's slower than DSLR), and I'm used to the DSLR almost no-lag shutter response so I will continue to use my DSLR cameras most of the time. For point and shoot customers, they won't notice the shutter lag (as it is the same if not better than most point and shoot camera) and they will probably be able to replace their point and shoot camera with this camcorder as it produces image quality better and sharper than most point and shoot cameras.

Pros:

1. Video quality (1920 X 1080 Full HD) comparable with many professional camcorder and is one of the best quality for consumer level

2. Image quality for photos are sharp and vivid (8 megapixel).

3. Zoom Covers super wide angle to semi-zoom (6.4mm to 64mm) before the 1.7x magnification.

4. Built in 32GB built-in flash memory

5. Very effective optical image stabilization (a combination of optical and image sensor stabilization)

6. Lens filter thread (I installed 58mm UV/Haze filter to reduce UV and also help protect the front glass element)

7. Autofocus is very fast and includes a very accurate face detection to keep people's face in sharp focus

8. up to 24 hour recording in LP mode (with 64GB total memory, 32Gb built-in, and 32GB SD card)

9. Innovative Pre-record mode is available (and never miss critical shots anymore)

10. Video snapshot mode (shot short movie clips and blend with music tracks)

11. Almost instant on and record (stand-by to recording in less than 1 sec and from off in less than 2 sec)

12. Continuous mode for taking photos is very fast (though the shutter lag isn't nearly as good as SLR cameras)

13. Record HD videos and take 6MP photo to memory card simultaneously

14. Small but bright video light and photo flash.

15. Built-in automatic lens cover

16. Wireless remote control included

17. Bright and clear 2.7 inch lcd screan (and the image is sharp)

18. Very easy to navigate the menu (even though there are so many options and settings available)

19. 24p cinema mode and 30p progressive mode included

20. pre-programmed video and photo mode (sunset, night, beach, spotlight, fireworks, etc)

21. Aperture priority, Shutter priority, and Program mode available (in addition to Auto setting)

22. Dual shot mode (capture video and photo without having to change setting)

Cons:

1. Only 10x optical zoom (not sure why Canon doesn't make this top-of-the-line camcorder 20x or 30x optical zoom)

2. No seamless recording transition from one memory to the other memory

3. Included batteries only last about 75-90 minutes of recording time

4. Shutter response still not as fast as DSLR

5. Low light performance is average (improved if using the video light or internal flash)

6. A bit bulky compare to many other flash memory camcorders

7. Not the lightest camcorder but still lighter than DSLR cameras

8. 24Mbps recording mode has many restriction (require fast speed flash memory, and not all DVD player can playback)

9. No touch screen LCD

10. Non-standard accessory shoe terminal (better than none though. can use VL-5 video light or DM-100 microphone)

11. Must plug in ac adapter to transfer internal memory data to computer

12. No optical viewfinder

13. HDMI cable not included

14. Doesn't come with external battery charger (use the camcorder to charge the battery instead)

15. Top-of-the-line price

In conclusion, Canon VIXIA HFS10 is targeted for those who are looking for a consumer camcorder with the best video quality with a lot of internal flash memory (32GB) that can also take photo with the best image quality and the largest megapixel to date for a canon camcorder (8MP). Basically, Canon Vixia HFS10 is currently the top-of-the-line Canon consumer level camcorder.

Also check out the following Canon camcorders that has comparable main feature (Full HD video and DIGIC DV III image processor) before deciding to buy Canon VIXIA HFS10 (and decide whether any of these camcorders will fit your needs therefore avoid paying the premium that Canon VIXIA HFS10 command):

Canon VIXIA HFS100 (no internal flash memory, 10x optical zoom, 8.59-megapixel CMOS image sensor)

Canon VIXIA HF20 (32GB internal flash memory, 15x optical zoom, only 3.89-megapixel CMOS image sensor)

Canon VIXIA HF200 (no internal flash memory, 15x optical zoom, only 3.89-megapixel CMOS image sensor)

Sidarta Tanu

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Since there have been so many long reviews posted already, I will try to keep mine short and sweet. I'll just highlight some of the things that stand out to me and make a few comments.

Verdict: If you can afford it, probably the best (certainly one of the best) consumer HD video cam on the market today.

Features:

Outstanding lens

8.59-megapixel CMOS image sensor!

Quality build

Excellent picture quality

Good auto-focus system is fast and accurate

Optical image stabilization

Reliability and easy transfer of flash based system.

Decent 32 GB of internal flash memory

Good menu system is easy to use and understand

Built-in mic port

Superb feature set lots of bells and whistles (serious amateuers rejoice!)

Near pro-level capabilities and lots of manual control

Good macro capabilities

Excellent remote control capabilities (can control from many angles)

Gripes:

No optical viewfinder (sadly, becoming the norm)

No separate battery charger included (but more the norm these days, alas)

No HDMI cable (ditto)

Expensive (but you get what you pay for)

Batteriesyou will need to carry several

Must be on A/C power to transfer (but can use SD card as alternative)

Overall, an outstanding camera that is fun to use and yields great results. The latest in a long line of outstanding consumer video cameras from Canon. If you are serious about video, this is your camera. I am giving it 5 stars because, even though it's not perfect, it's the best I've ever seen.

Serous videographers will love this camera. Five stars!

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P.S.

My two cents worth if you are an average joe looking to make family movies, you should still consider the standard def models. They have far more zoom range and are much easier to hand-hold and shoot. They produce great results, there's lots of low cost and good editing software, their resolution is great for DVD's, and the tapes are easy to use and store. You really need a tripod with HD cams, and editing is much harder and more difficult. The picture quality on the better std def cameras is excellent, not HD, but plenty good. And you can save a ton of money. I still use my std def cams for lots of family stuff.