Sony DSR-PDX10 Professional 1/4.7" 16:9 3CCD DVCAM Compact Camcorder with 3.5 inch LCD Monitor

Quite often I notice many reviewers associate the word "professional" with this camcorder, which is frustrating since this camcorder is not "professional"; it is a professional consumer (prosumer) camcorder. I own this camera by the way, but I am neither a consumer (respectively) nor am I a professional; I have been to Radio-Television-Film school, which has allowed me to become a photojournalist, but I would never consider myself a professional I have chosen to be this way because becoming a truly professional videographer slash cinematographer requires some extensive knowledge and experience two things which I don't have, and two things which you probably don't have either since your on Amazon's website looking at the Sony DSR-PDX10, and reading a review on the camera from someone who is on the job, but obviously has nothing better to do at the moment.

Nonetheless, I will attempt to divulge your wonders about this camcorder. As of the current, I have owned a PDX10 since the spring of 2004 which I suppose is something like a year and-a-half to be not exact. And since I am much better at noticing negative things, I will start with those bad things about Sony's little three-chip camcorder, the biggest problem being the chips themselves. The three charged coupling devices in this camera are all 1/ 4.7 inches in diameter (almost 1/5 inches in diameter) making these chips the smallest ones in the prosumer market. What does this mean exactly? Well it means that the camera is absolutely terrible in low light shooting conditions. It also means that the image is highly susceptible to noise a thing which wouldn't seem so bad if it were as aesthetic as film grain, but alas, this is interlaced digital video the farthest thing from celluloid. Small CCD's also mean that the range of optimal exposure levels for this camera is about as narrow as the mind of a narrow-minded person; thus, the image will yield the best quality when the lighting is bright and even. Because of this, the PDX10's image will look its best when the camcorder used for outdoor shooting situations (except at night).

This seems like a terrible camera now doesn't it? Not very professional at all, you say. Well, before you write this camera off, I must mention that the PDX10's image at its best is quite incredible for this amount of money. And to mention the unmentioned, this is the only camera in its class that will record in true widescreen (16:9) ratio the PD170 (Sony's next-best prosumer DV camcorder [$3,500]) can't even do this. Most cameras which claim to record in 16:9 either crop the top and bottom of the 4:3 image, or they squeeze the initial recorded image by electronically changing the aspect ratio (but not the physical aspect ratio) of the pixels, which will later be "stretched" out when viewed on a 16:9 television this process is physically degrading to the recorded image. Personally, I always record in 16:9 because when viewed on a 4:3 ("full screen") TV via DVD, the over-sampled image looks great, and is also future proof for viewing on 16:9 televisions in "full screen". In fact, the PDX10 has been a choice camera for underwater photographers who want to have the ability to shoot in 16:9 while keeping a small form factor; because of the ambient lighting found underwater, this camera will yield an exceptional image in such conditions (during the day, of course).

When I purchased the camera, I also purchased both wide angle and telephoto lens adapters that thread on to the front of the camera's fixed lens quite annoyingly. With the 2x telephoto lens, there is serious chromatic aberration (a condition which is best described in words as blue-ish slash purple-ish hazes of light around subjects displaced in the depth of the image) that worsens the further you "zoom" in. This condition is not so apparent, if at all, wile just using the fixed lens, but then you will be limited to a 12x optical telephoto range. Digital zoom is available, and is broken up into two areas of intensity; the first level is 24x, which isn't so terribly bad as other digital zooms, mostly because the CCD's have roughly one million pixels scattered about each of their tiny 1/ 4.7 inch surfaces, and the resolution of NTSC DV only asks for about half of those pixels to show a proper image. The second level of digital zoom is available also, but I wouldn't advise using it unless you're spying on somebody whose one eighth of a mile away from you.

A wide angle adapter is nice to have, but I wouldn't suggest using it if you are planning on zooming in a lot, otherwise you will have to be constantly adjusting your focus. Particularly helpful when using these fixed-lens cameras is an auto focus feature, or more importantly, a push-auto focus feature. For example, you may set the camera to manual focus, and if you don't feel like messing with the focus ring on the front of the camera, you may push a button on the side of the camera that will automatically adjust the focus without having to switch into auto focus mode. There is even a third way to focus, and that is via the LCD flip-out screen, which happens to be touch-sensitive. Just hit tap the screen in the area you want the camera to focus and it will do so makes rack focuses easy as h-e and two hockey sticks. All three modes of auto focus are very fast; Sony is known for having the best auto focus for video cameras, and this camera is no exception as it was originally designed to be Sony's flagship consumer model. Probably my second overall disappointment with the camera is the manual focus ring that has a naturally sluggish feel to it; I much prefer the precise auto controls found on Panasonic's fixed-lens cameras, which closely mimic the feel of a mounted lens. The PDX10's focus ring gets even more sluggish in cold weather, as the back side of the metal ring is coated with an anti-abrasive lubricant whose viscosity decreases congruently with the clime's temperature.

Since I'm on the subject of temperature and climate affecting the performance of the camera, I'll have you know that even the most extreme conditions for humans will not affect the performance of the PDX10. It is known that both altitude and temperature affect electronics in general, and when exposed to the most extreme conditions, they might cease to even operate. Such was not the case when I went skiing in Colorado during late December of last year. I decided to take the PDX10 on the slopes one day, and mindful of the temperatures, loaded the camera with a DVCAM cassette just to test what the medium was all hyped up to be. Somewhere between 12,000 and 13,000 feet at single digits Fahrenheit, I blasted down the slopes holding the small camera close to the ground with idle-as-possible hands; it was fun. Sometimes when you're skiing, within all of those layers of clothing, you kind of loose perspective on how cold it really is outside. Well, looking down at the PDX10's flip-out LCD, I noticed that something was wrong it looked like the shutter speed was low. But after skiing a little bit more, it finally hit my mind it was so cold that the pixel refresh rate had increased, or the liquid in the crystal display was getting too cold. That's cold. One of my friend's digital cameras wouldn't power up that's cold. I began to wonder whether or not my footage would come out ok, but when we all got back to the lodge and played the tape, it was just perfect. Maybe DVCAM does have some redeeming properties whenever you're 12,000 feet above sea level, freezing your rear end off, and happen to be taping something.

On other issues of durability, I would like to in fact mention more issues of durability. It just so happened that this camera, in an unfortunate series of events, was catapulted to the ground in such intensity that the lens hood became permanently distorted, the corner of the LCD flip-out panel gouged a scar into the side of the camera body, the original shotgun microphone was rendered snapped-in-half, the high capacity battery was dislocated from the camera body, and the optical sensor for the focus ring was knocked out of place from the impact. Fortunately, I was able to re-attach the battery and continue filming. I was able to fix the focus ring problem myself by taking apart the camera and doing some rudimentary drilling. I don't have any problems with the camera to this day (this happened a year ago). I have worked with other cameras of the like, and can say in confidence that the PDX10, and all Sony prosumer video cameras, feel more durable than the Canon GL series cameras, as well as the Panasonic prosumer cameras not to say that it is more durable, it just feels durable and has proven to be so. So if you have any doubts of durability, I can tell you in all honesty to not have any doubts of durability when considering the PDX10 and its durability.

What you are buying when you in fact buy a PDX10 is a very high-end consumer camcorder that has the ability, in some applications, to be a quasi-professional video camera. If you are interested in filming extreme slash outdoor sports, I would highly recommend this camera for its durability, portability, great auto features, great image stabilization, and better-than-consumer results which will impress the people who see your footage, and might even trick them into thinking that it was a professional camera. If you're in the market for a camera to use for event videography, I would suggest investing in a camcorder that is shoulder-mounted (Canon XL series are a bit front-heavy by the way) and looks good in various lighting conditions (look for a rating of 1 lux or lower), and has readily accessible manual controls. If you're just a very wealthy or eccentric person who would like a video camera to document their own realities, you'd probably be attracted to the new HDV camcorders. If you are buying this camera to make a bloody film or documentary, find out how much it will cost to rent a professional camera and hire a professional to operate it that will give you the best results. Final word: the Sony DSR-PDX10 could be akin to a very large sink with a disproportionately small drain, if that makes any sense.

I teach videography and have tried many different camcorders before deciding on the PDX10 as the best compromise between price, easy of use, and professional quality.

The best feature of the PDX10 is the dual-XLR audio inputs and good quality microphone normally included with the camera. Cheaper consumer cameras often don't even let you adjust audio levels, even if you did add an third-party XLR input.

Video quality is both great and poor--that is, great when there's plenty of light and poor when you're in low light or even not-so-well-lit ordinary indoor situations. I shot a well-lit scene with the PDX10 and, right next to it, a $20,000 Sony camera with a $5,000 lens, and nobody yet has been able to tell which is which when I show them the footage. (Interestingly, the more expensive professional camera also did poorly in low light conditions.)

I've heard some people say they preferred the old Sony PD-100A, which was the PDX10's predecessor. However, I have both and appreciate the many improvements to the interface and slightly better color quality of the PDX10.

The closest competitor to this is the Panasonic AG-DVC30, which has better low light performance but doesn't have as good 16:9 support. More importantly to me, the PDX-10 records in DVCAM format (on regular mini-DV tapes) which puts more data on the tape for each minute of recording. I have found to my great dismay that the regular DV format is VERY prone to errors, dropouts, and rapid tape degradation. I can't tell you how many of my projects have been ruined or nearly ruined by problems with DV! Since I switched to DVCAM-only hardware in my studio, I have NEVER had a visible dropout or data error, even when re-using previously recorded tapes (which saves money, and which only a suicidal videographer would try with regular DV).

Bottom line: Buy the PDX10 unless you need to shoot in low light, in which case you should get a Panasonic AG-DVC30 (and splurg on best-quality tape) or save up the extra money for a Sony PD170, which also has good low-light performance. The PD170 also has more bells and whistles (such as selectable frame rate and more switches so you don't need to use menus as often), but for my money I'd much rather have two PDX10's (or a PDX10 and a thick stack of hundred-dollar bills) than one PD170.

Buy Sony DSR-PDX10 Professional 1/4.7" 16:9 3CCD DVCAM Compact Camcorder with 3.5 inch LCD Monitor Now

This camera is great if you are on a low budget. In fact, as of this date, it doesn't get better. Everyone has mentioned the greats... tons of digital controls over your image, a touch screen, and xlr ins. That's great. If it makes a huge difference to you, the CCD chips are small, and thus a low lux camera. So if you are planning lots of low light, it may be worth it to spend more on more. The digital controls are great, but they are nothing like manual shutter speed and fstop. This is a great camera for the price. It has captured beautiful images for me.

Read Best Reviews of Sony DSR-PDX10 Professional 1/4.7" 16:9 3CCD DVCAM Compact Camcorder with 3.5 inch LCD Monitor Here

The Panasonic performs much better in low light and has more accessible manual features, and it's cheaper. I'm not saying that the Sony is a bad camcorder, though.

Want Sony DSR-PDX10 Professional 1/4.7" 16:9 3CCD DVCAM Compact Camcorder with 3.5 inch LCD Monitor Discount?

ESTA CAMARA DE VIDEO SONY PDX 10 ES MUY BUENA, PARA FILMAR EN CONDICIONES DE POCA LUZ, SUS MICROFONOS SON DE BUY BUENA RECEPCION, SU PANTALLA GRANDE PERMITE VER SON MEJORES DETALLES LAS IMAGENES, LOS COLORES DE LAS IMAGENES PERFECTAS. NO LE PIDE FAVOR A LA PD150-PD170.

MUY BUENA VIDEOCAMARA.

Marcelo Mullo Torres.

Ecuador

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Wansview Outdoor Waterproof Wifi Wireless/wired Ip Camera with Night Vision, Motion Detection Alarm

This cam is a Wansview NC543W.

UPDATE: 2.12.2013

Cam is still functional :) What I thought was wonky color balance is I believe due to no IR cut filter, the IR emitters are always on which screws up the color balance.

UPDATE: 3/15/2012

The cam still works! Yea! The color balance is still awful. Boo!

UPDATE: 4/19/2011

It took about five days of emailing back and forth to finally get ATC-whatever-LLC of Naperville, IL interested in sending me a new cam. Customer service after the sale with ATC-whatever-LLC of Naperville, IL is very poor. I would never buy another product from them ever again.

UPDATE: 3/30/2011

The cam stopped working about two or three weeks ago. If I power-cycled the cam, it would work for about five minutes and then become unresponsive. Wansview emailed me the firmware after I contacted them about the problem, loaded the firmware and then the cam seemed to work okay. After about an hour of operation, it was broken again. I'm done with this cam. I think (not sure though) this cam appears in different permutations Smarteye for one. Dealing with Chinese support via email was very cordial and they were responsive, but completely unproductive.

After reading the seller's (not Amazon unfortunately it was ATC-whatever-LLC) return policy, it was a bit convoluted and I'm not sure what the warranty policy is. After reading ATC's diatribe about returns, I think I'm going to throw the cam away and never buy a product from ATC-whatever-LLC again and probably never buy a Wansview cam or its other variation, the Smarteye (assuming I'm correct about the relationship.)

What a shame...

--End of update--

NOTE: All features and functions will work in Internet Explorer (like two way sound.) You can view the video in Firefox/Safari/Chrome/etc., but you will not have full features and functionality.

I have several webcams keeping an eye on our ranch and I do have a bit of experience with higher-end models (Toshiba/Panasonic) so this review will evaluate this cam relative to my experience.

Basically, you shouldn't expect a ~$90 cam to perform like a ~$900 dollar one. There are a lot of trade-offs with the low-end models a poor quality manual (in this case written in 'Chinglish') that assumes you already know most of what they are attempting to describe to you (they don't want to spend a penny more on a tech writer than absolutely necessary.)

The firmware might not be as fully developed as other higher-priced cams case in point with this one is there are no real color balance controls. You get 50 or 60 hertz or outdoor mode. In lower light conditions, the color balance is really, *really* bad. The color balance might be really bad in brighter light, but I don't know since that is not my application for this cam. And the image sensor might not be first quality and size of it makes a huge difference. This cam will display a max resolution of 640x480, not too bad and a useful size.

So what about this cam?

For about 90 bucks, it is a pretty good deal. Here are some caveats and features:

it is a good deal if you do not need detailed step-by-step instructions to set it up

it is a good deal if color balance isn't a big issue

it is a good deal if you can deal with a *very* incomplete manual it has no explanation about the audio out, audio in, alarm connections, or any API (application programming interface.) In fact, it is like Wanssview allocated xx dollars (Yen?) to the manual when that amount was reached, they pulled the plug on the tech writer. To be blunt, the user manual sucked big-time

the IR (infrared) night view was very good. I don't know about the range since my objective is to keep an eye on an automatic animal feeder which was only about eight feet away from the cam. In total darkness, I can plainly see the feeder in all detail. I was impressed!

it has no built-in microphone or speaker, but has the capability of both. The microphone feature does work I tried it!

in lower light the cam is not particularly fast you will get image blur on an alarm trigger

If you buy this cam, "OSD" means On Screen Display this is not mentioned anywhere in the manual. For "Motion Detect Armed" Motion Detect Sensibility [sic] 1 is the least sensitive and 10 is the most it took an email to China to figure this out. 7 seems to work the best for me.

If 90 bucks won't make a difference with your kids eating and having adequate clothing or not, buy this cam and play with it. If 90 bucks *is* a big deal to you, I would stick with Linksys, Dlink, Panasonic, etc.

Update 7/26/12:

All of these cameras seem to have the same "flashing" problem. It isn't clear if it is the "IR Cut" filter or some other problem. They also might as well be black-and-white given how terrible the color is. If something happened and video from this camera needed to be submitted to authoritiesit would be next to impossible to actually identify anyone in it.

The "flashing" problem seems to occur at a particular light level (much too bright for the "IR Cut" filter if it is working normally), so at least twice a day (or more often in changing weather conditions) the cameras brightness rapidly changes between light and dark for 30 minutes or more. This triggers both the camera's internal "motion detector", as well as the motion detection algorithms in security DVR software like Blue Iris or iSpy. In other wordsyour mailbox, FTP server, or DVR will fill up with completely useless images, very quickly.

Technical support via email says a "Factory Reset" will fix the problem. Not only doesn't it fix the problembut you then have to set everything up again from scratch, which is a problem if you are using them via WiFi in a not-easily-accessible location.

Alsomounting these cameras outdoors means you pretty much have to cut and splice the 5v power cord, and use a lot of tape or an outdoor box to keep the connectors in. They come with a short cable and a set of connectors that you would have to drill a 1.5" hole in the wall to route inside. The power supply is only indoor rated, and is too big to put in an "In-Use" covered GFCI box. Of courseyou can't return them without the factory-provided power supply...

Update 6/12/12:

I dropped my rating to two stars.

While probably still a good value for the money, these cameras have at least one serious issue. I returned one, but the replacement has the same problem. A friend of mine bought two cameras at the same time I did, and has the same issue with hers as-well. The cameras flip randomly between their "IR CUT" filter and normal in certain lighting conditions. This causes random light/dark flashing at various times throughout the day. This flashing, besides being extremely annoying, also trips the "motion alarm", sending hundreds (or in the case of one of my camerasthousands) of bogus motion alarm pictures out. If you use their software to record videoyou will get many-many hours of nothing but flashing video filling up your HDD.

One solution I found online is to either color-over or tape-over the light sensor on the camera. Tried thatdoesn't work. I requested support on Wansview's Web site a week ago, and have heard nothing. There also aren't any firmware updates available for these cameras. I guess we can keep returning them for new ones, but since this is happening on 4 out of 4 (actually 5 if I count the one I've already returned) it's pretty clear it is a manufacturing defect. All four came from different vendors (via Amazon) Wansview should just give one the option to turn the stupid filter OFF! They do seem to work quite well at night, but during the daythey are almost useless for hours at a time.

Leaving my old review here for reference...

I recently bought two of this most-recent version of Wansview outdoor security camera: NC543W. The camera has a solid aluminum housing and appears to be well-sealed from the elements. I bought three similar cameras last year. They are cheap and the picture quality definitely isn't HD, but they are very usable.

The camera's I bought last year came with terrible "Chinelish" manuals that were almost impossible to read. They also didn't come with any kind of viewing/recording software, forcing me to use marginally-implemented browser-based viewers or 3rd-party software. I'm very happy to say that this has changed for these two most-recent purchases. More effort was clearly put into the user's manual, and the included "multi-view" software works very well. The really big bonus with the viewer software is the ability to record video, as opposed to just still images.

As another bonusthe cameras will work with uPnP routers (or you can manually set up tunneling) and Wansview provides a DDNS server, making it very easy to set the cameras up for remote viewing. The manual does a decent job of describing the setup for this, but non-geeks may need to get a bit of help configuring their router if necessary.

The camera has an "automatic" software color filter that is supposed to just kick in when in IR nigh-vision mode. I suspect this may be causing problems for some. I've found the color during the day to be very acceptable. In low-light there is a definite color shift, mostly noticeable at dusk and dawn.

I really only have two issues with these cameras, preventing a 5-star rating:

I can't get the Internet Explorer version of their Web viewer to work. I've tried it on three computers. The plugin install seems to "blow up" and I get nothing but a blank view. It's possible this is due to over-zealous security settings on my part, but I'm not going to lower my standards to install a plugin. I don't get any kind of an error message or pop-up. The other browser version works just fine on Chrome, Safari, and Firefox. It also works great on iPhone and iPad, although there are some great 3rd party camera viewers for them, as well as Android, that work fine with these cameras.

It is difficult to accomplish a good outdoor mount of them due to the length of the connector cable and the size of the network jack. If you want an inexpensive "clean" installyou pretty much have to drill a 1" hole to route the cables through to the inside. The power adapter and its cable are not outdoor rated, and it doesn't appear any of the other connectors will last long outdoors without some kind of protection. It's probably possible to cram everything into a water-tight exterior box, which is something I'm going to experiment with. I'd much rather drill a small hole for the power adapter cable (and network cable, if necessary) than a 1" one. Tacking things up under an eave seems to be the cheapest option, and I don't believe that will make it through winter. Power-over-Ethernet would make things easier, but would likely raise the price of the camera.

Like I saidit's a great camera for the price. If you want good color balance and a higher resolution with more featureslook at spending 3-10x as much. If you want a reliable (at least in my experience) security camera and don't have a lot of money to spendthis is a great deal.

One bit of adviceit is difficult to tweak the motion-sensor sensitivity, especially outdoors where things like trees and shrubs blowing in the wind can set it off. This isn't really the fault of the camerait's just the nature of such systems. These cameras can generate a LOT of email, so if you use that method of "alarm" notificationsget yourself another email account with a lot of space on one of the big providers. That way you won't flood your personal email account. If you use FTPyou will want to frequently audit the server's disk usage, or use an automated process to delete older uploads. If using the multi-view software to record videobe sure to enable the feature that automatically deletes older videos if you are running out of disk space. I recommend using a dedicated partition or external disk.

Buy Wansview Outdoor Waterproof Wifi Wireless/wired Ip Camera with Night Vision, Motion Detection Alarm Now

Review Update of 7/25/11

A NEW (replacement) Wansview NC543/W outdoor wireless IP camera arrived today! The seller honored their (3-year) warranty by returning a New camera, not a refurbished unit! Based on this experience, I highly recomment the (Chicago) seller and Wansview camreas! The other two cameras are still working Great on my wireless network!

Review Update of 7/23/11

I was just notified that the seller was sending me a new camera to replace the defective camera. If that's true, I'm impressed! I'll post a final review when it arrives.

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Review Update on Wansview Warranty Problem

Perhaps I was too hasty in my first review, so I have changed it. I finally received a RMA & address to return the camera, which was returned on 7/13/2011. I'll post another update when the camera is returned.

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This review is about a Wansview NC543W warranty problem.

I purchased three of these cameras in a popular auction Website in Nov.Dec. 2010. They have worked very well since installation (only about 6 7 months), until recently when one camera just "died". It has no power and you cannot communicate with the camera via a CAT5E cable nor wirelessly. Additionally, the camera does not show up with the "IP Camera Tool" that looks for any camera on the LAN, even when it's plugged directly into the router.

The problem I have is not so much with the camera, although I'm beginning to be concerned with the quality of Wansview products. My biggest concern and problem is with the Chicago, IL seller in trying to get warranty repair/replacement/RMA shipping instructions. At first they were very helpful in trying to understand the details of the problem. Although it took a little time & patience, when all the details were provided, the seller agreed to examine my defective camera, and replace it.

Read Best Reviews of Wansview Outdoor Waterproof Wifi Wireless/wired Ip Camera with Night Vision, Motion Detection Alarm Here

Product died within a few hours on being installed. No support by the company, nor will they exchange it under their 'warranty'.

Avoid this company and its products.

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This camera same as HooToo HT-IP212 Outdoor Wired/Wireless Surveillance Camera. Same problems:I am very disappointed with this camera. In the wireless mode camera works only within 10Ft. This is it.

I am Computer and Network Engineer with 17 years of experience. I am setting up a various PCs and computer based devises all day long. I know how network works very well. This camera is a POS.

Do Not Buy it unless you want to use it as a hard wired camera. You can connect RJ 45 directly to you Router. But if you have to run a wire, than you do not need the wireless component.

Software is not too bad, but camera sometimes loses its network settings and you will need to re-set it again.

Nikon D300s 12.3MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II Lens

Hello everybody, My name is Daniel and I am about as serious as you can be and still be considered "amateur". I have been taking photos on SLR's since I was 10 years old on an old film Minolta and I bought my first DSLR (a Nikon D50) and since then I have owned everything from a base line Canon XSi all the way up to the the best camera I have ever handled... the D300s. I have operated the D3, D3s, D3x and the top of the line professional $10k Canons, and this is still my favorite ALL AROUND camera. So here is the break down to why I love this camera and I will give you a list of pros and cons. I love this camera for many reasons... ... not many people can justify spending another $4,000 (2-3 times the money) when they are looking to spend around $1,500$2,000 for a good DSLR. So here is the benefits that I see to D300s over the other great Nikon models.

1. if you are into sports the D300s has a higher continuous frame rate than other models including the ever so popular full frame D700. With it's DX sensor it has a crop factor of 1.5 which means more bang for you buck when using a telephoto zoom lens. If you purchase the MB-D10 battery pack it will shoot at even higher speeds of 8fps when using continuous shooting and also allows for up to nearly 5,000 pictures to be taken on one charge (when upgraded battery is purchased). With 51 auto-focus and 3-D tracking you are almost guaranteed to have your subject in focus every time you take a picture. The D300s also features Active D Lighting which makes to so your pictures end up properly exposed so you don't end up with areas of under and over exposure which tend to be common in sports and in shadowy landscape photography

2. Freedom: although all Nikon DSLR's allow you to manually adjust your settings they are difficult to change until you get to the semi-pro D300 model. If you understand f-stops, DOF, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, focus points, light metering and other technical jargon and really want to experiment with all of these then a D300s is the camera for you. with shooting modes including: single, cont. low speed, high speed, timer, quiet, and mirror up mode this camera gives you all the freedom you could ever ask for.

3. Learning: this camera will make you learn the true in's and out's of photography. With the very accurate light meter it's not very hard to get the exposure right. No matter what your ISO and f stop is at.

4. User interface. With the dedicated live view and info button new to the D300s over the original D300 it cuts menu times down significantly however it no longer has the memory card hatch release switch. The D300s includes great features such as custom menus, easy to understand menus with the classic (?) button which will explain every camera function in easy to understand terms. On the fly changes include ISO, WB, Quality, shooting modes, a user adjusted fn button, AF/AE lock, light metering, and af adjustments. So the only limitations are your imagination. Selecting your focal point is as easy as looking in the viewfinder and pushing the directional button and watching the selector move around until you have exactly the right spot selected. With two selectors (one for shutter speed and one for f stop) it allows you to never have to take your eye out out of the viewfinder.

The bottom line (why you would choose this over any other Nikon DSLR):

why you'd choose this over the D90: 51point AF w/ 3D tracking, more fps, control of image adjustments, not much more money for a lot more freedom and creativity, contrast auto-focusing during movies, ability to utilize dual card slots (CF and SD), 14bit RAW, Active D Lighting.

Over the D700: full 12MP when using DX lenses rather than 5MP, more fps, $600-$1,000 less, movie mode, smaller pixels for more refinement at low ISO, 100% viewfinder coverage

Over the D3 and D3x: A ton of money, shooting speed, optimization of DX and FX lenses and movie mode, and built in flash, 100% viewfinder coverage which allows for better framing.

This is a great camera HOWEVER NOTE THE FOLLOWING!!!!!

The D700, D3,x,s have FX photo sensors which allow for a much bigger and brighter view finder, it also allows for a wider view (no crop factor instead of 1.5x like the DX) which means if you want more area in your pictures for such things as landscapes then the D700 or the D3 lineup maybe a better option because a 50mm lens in a DX camera looks the same as a 75mm lens on an FX camera.

The D700 and D3 lineup (minus the D3x) utilize the large FX sensor and still only have a 12MP capacity which means that the pixels are larger which allows for better depth of color, better definition in shadows, and better high ISO clarity. The D300 can go to extended ISO of 6400 however the image quality is poor at best when the D3 can shoot ISO 6400 all day long and look great. The D700 also does better at high ISOs than the D300 does because it has the same sensor as the D3 however the D3 still does better than the D700 at extreme ISOs. However also consider the fact that the smaller the image sensor the larger the depth of field so the D700 and the D3 are better for macro or portrait photography and the D300 will give you a larger DOF equivalent to about one f-stop.

THIS IS NOT A VIDEO CAMERA video is pretty good and the utilization of lenses is a great feature however if you want good video spend the money on a video camera. Even a Flip HD does better. The camera produces good video but it doesn't do well during panning if you plan on putting the camera on a tripod and filming then by all means its fine and with the option for an external mic to give you stereo sound is nice.

When it comes to portability, price, features, weight, usability, image adjustments ect. I personally believe it doesn't get any better I hope this review helped and I hope you get one too and really enjoy it as much as I have. This camera is the best of all worlds. I say save the money from an FX camera and buy a really nice lens or two or three for that matter. Anyway here is the camera of my dreams and hopefully the camera in your bag shortly I promise you'll love it, I know I do.

UPDATE: For all you HDR photographers look no further than the D300s you can easily create HDR photos by selecting "multiple exposures" and then setting up multi-step exposures for + or EV per exposure and after the exposures are done voila you have a beautiful HDR photo. Keep in mind however: you will need a cable release (I recommend the MC-36) for the multiple exposures. OR take a few pictures at different exposures and overlay the photos in the in camera retouch menu and there you have it perfect HDR photos every time! Goodbye Photoshop (for HDR anyway)

The D300s and flash compatibility: I have noticed almost no one has talked about the fantastic flash compatibility with the D300s over many cameras. I figured it needed to be covered so here it goes: The D300s is a DREAM to work with when paired with any Nikon Speedlight Dynamic Lighting System. My favorite and most frequently used flash is the SB-600 Speedlight which can be wirelessly operated for NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE with the D300s, you just have to know what settings to change. Unlike the D3 which has to either have a hot shoe flash controller unit or an SB-800 ($900) the D300s can operate a nearly unlimited number of flashes wirelessly without any accessories. So if you are like so many other Nikon users and own an SB-600 just push and hold the "Zoom" and the "-" button at the same time until you get to custom menu and cycle through until you can adjust the squiggly Z shaped line and turn it to on and it defaults to channel 3 then either push and hold the "zoom" and "-" button to get out of the menu or just push the power button. Then go to the "Custom Setting Menu" (the pencil) on your D300s and change "e3" "flash cntrl for built-in flash" to the Commander mode and set to channel 3, and pop up your built in flash and there you go...ABSOLUTELY FREE WIRELESS FLASH with perfect exposure compensation every time using a $250 flash unit. Hope it helps someone I know it helped me so have fun and remember to change it back to TTL flash when you're done.

UPDATE #2: I have had a lot of question on why you would get this over a D300 and here you go the main reasons for buying the D300s over the D300 is the designated info button, and live view button, movie mode, designated okay button instead of one crappy directional selector, quiet mode AND dual memory card slots. It's also 7 months newer so you won't have an out dated camera as soon. It also has slightly different menus and new software for shooting modes including landscape, and portrait modes.

This is a tough review because this camera is so excellent as a still device and easily earns five stars. However, if you're currently a D300 owner looking to upgrade for this camera's new video capabilities you will be disappointed. The unfortunate 'rolling shutter' problem that plagues the video feature on the D90 exists on the new D300s too.

There's a host of technical reasons for this (the CMOS sensor is to blame) but the bottom line for those looking for a great still and video camera should probably not rely on the D300S to be the 'holy grail' of sub $2000 "prosumer" cameras just yet. There is software out there to correct these issues, but it is a bit disappointing that Nikon didn't address this in firmware. Watch my video to see more.

Buy Nikon D300s 12.3MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II Lens Now

There are plenty of very good comprehensive reviews here of the D300S here already, so I'm instead of posting another I'm going to attempt to focus on what I see as some of the pros and cons of the D300S versus other camera bodies in the Nikon line-up. The D300S has essentially identical image quality to the $500 D5000 and the now quite old (in DSLR terms) D300 and D90; and it remains a small-format DX camera while the next step up in price gets you a full-frame D700. Even so, my personal choice for the majority of my photography is a D300S rather than any of those alternatives. I have also owned and shot with every other camera mentioned here: all are excellent and I believe all can be considered good values for the money spent in today's market. Perhaps some readers would find my perspective useful.

As far as I'm concerned, image quality from Nikon DSLRs has really been quite excellent at least since the introduction of the D70. Of course there have been all kinds of incremental improvements since then, but comparing anything since the D70 to the funky highlights produced by the earlier D100, for example, makes it clear that we have long since reached the point of diminishing returns when it comes to real, visible improvements in DSLR image quality. In terms of the finer points it will continue to improve, but whether you buy a D5000, a D300S or a D700, the differences between the images you can make with the camera are going to be tiny compared with the differences in how you can use it with the exception of the FX-vs-DX field of view, which is very important.

What I think most people will benefit from is carefully assessing the features and physical capabilities of the various bodies, considering the types of photography they like to do, and selecting the best match for their particular needs. Budget, of course, enters the equation: but for many photographers the small, light D5000 would be the best choice regardless of budget, while of course others will absolutely require the pro features of the more expensive bodies.

D300S vs D700; DX vs FX By far the most fundamental issue in camera body selection:

This is the one real difference between the shooting capabilities of any of the bodies I'm writing about here, and it affects every image you make with the camera once you buy it. I would strongly advise readers NOT to look at format as a camera issue, but to look at it as a lens issue. Of course there are differences between the FX and DX bodies, even those closest in specification, and to some degree it's possible to equalize lens selection: but when you begin to look at the practical realities of lens selection for DX vs FX formats, it is immediately apparent that they operate in completely different worlds. I'm convinced that this should be one's primary consideration when choosing a camera, assuming that your budget allows you a choice between the formats.

The heart of the matter is that it really is much easier to make a great DX lens than it is to make a great FX lens. The basic physics guarantees it. The DX format is 2/3 the linear size of the FX format, meaning that, all else being equal, lenses will have to be 3.4 TIMES BIGGER (1.5^3) in FX format to exactly equal the optics on DX of a DX format lens. Because lens design is a matter of careful compromise between many factors mainly size, price, max aperture, zoom ratio, sharpness, and weight; real-world FX lenses aren't made 3.4 times bigger, heavier and more expensive than DX lenses. They are instead made only considerably bigger, with compromises in other aspects of design so that they must give up some aspect of performance: zoom ratio, max aperture, optical excellence to achieve their design objectives.

Because of this, there is really no FX equivalent to the excellent 16-85mm VR DX lens (the 24-120VR is a fairly mediocre lens despite being physically larger). Likewise the 35mm f/1.8 has come out being a slightly better lens than the 50mm f/1.4G despite being smaller and lighter (though slower, unfortunately). Many excellent wide zooms now exist for DX cameras at affordable prices, while the selection of FX wide zooms has one choosing between obscenely heavy and expensive excellent lenses and "normally" priced average lenses. This conundrum spans the entire range of available lenses, and it is likely never to change or to resolve in favor of FX because it is driven by the basic physics of optics and their design and manufacture.

For this reason, DX cameras have tremendous advantages if you want to shoot lenses that are reasonably priced, that give excellent sharpness and overall image quality, that have flexible zoom ranges, and that are light and compact enough to transport and use unobtrusively.

FX, on the other hand, will be marketed as the premier format, and I think we can expect that most of the very best lenses made will continue to be FX lenses. Very fast primes, f/2.8 zooms built to pro specifications, long telephotos and the best macro lenses will all be FX. FX lenses can of course be used on DX cameras, but that realization leads to the other FX advantages. While the DX "crop factor" gives DX bodies a presumed advantage in the telephoto range, it conversely gives FX cameras a sizeable advantage within the "normal" ranges most people do most of their shooting at. A 50mm lens on FX equals a 35mm lens on DX in terms of field of view, but allows for much better control of subject isolation than the DX lens. Likewise, a "fast wide" lens on FX such as the new 24mm f/1.4G becomes a much less exotic creature on DX, and probably rather pointless as a consequence. For portraiture, the selection of lenses for FX is wonderful, if expensive, whereas DX shooters must compromise by using lenses not designed for their native format.

For photographers who shoot mostly in the normal ranges, who want to maximize their control of depth of field (especially towards the wide end), who don't mind paying a premium for the most expensive equipment, and who are willing to put up with the weight and the conspicuousness of shooting with pro-level equipment as well as the compromises inherent in FX lens design, FX will continue to be the only option.

There is one more advantage currently in shooting FX, in that the FX sensors are more light-sensitive than the DX sensors, enabling shooting at tremendous ISOs, well above the DX level. This will probably always remain so: the FX sensor is bigger, and can gather more light. Whether this is important to a particular user really depends on the types of photography they like to do, but it should be appropriately factored into the decision. Likewise FX cameras have larger viewfinders, which will probably never be possible on DX cameras: another luxury of FX shooting that does not directly translate to the images that can be produced.

Personally, having been a film shooter in the past, I find my needs more than satisfied by DX bodies, at least for the time being. A selection of excellent, lightweight lenses suffices for the vast majority of my photography, while I can put up with the compromises inherent in some parts of the range, especially for fast wide shooting. I'd like some fast prime lens options in the range of 16-28mm for DX but I can live with their absence considering the cost, both financial and in terms of lost flexibility, of switching to FX.

D300S vs D300 vs D90

My upgrade path went from the D40 through the D90 and D300 and then to the D300S. I loved every one of those bodies except, notably, the D300, which was in some ways a step backwards in comparison to the D90 and which I was never completely satisfied with. I do currently have a D700 as well.

The D90 is still a great camera, affording the vast majority of capabilities of the D300S, the exceptions being the inherent handling and feature advantages of the pro bodies. The D90 is also much lighter and physically smaller than the pro bodies, making it a very pleasant camera to shoot, and I would still be using mine were it not for just a couple of relatively minor improvements that make the D300S worth the upgrade for me. The pro bodies let you define custom setting banks, so that I can switch between different types of shooting easily. Since I do this daily, this is very important to me. Switching from an indoor, tripod-mounted shooting configuration to an outdoor, hand-held shooting configuration on a D90 takes a lot of button presses and a couple of minutes, and there is always the very likely possibility of forgetting to change one critical parameter and not realizing it until it's too late. No matter how serious a photographer you are, if you shoot mostly in similar conditions all the time, or in constantly changing conditions such that pre-defined shooting banks would be useless, then this feature is probably meaningless to you. It happens to be very useful to me.

Likewise the D300S has a couple of features lacking in the D300 that allow for quick settings changes: several shooting parameters (not enough, though) can be changed quickly right on the rear LCD as on the D40/60/3000/5000 bodies, which I find very useful. Also useful, the D300S' function buttons can be programmed to put you at the top selection of a custom-defined menu. Between these two features I can access and change almost any of the commonly-altered settings on the D300S (or the D90/D700) very quickly, while the D300 had me hunting through the menu system for far too long. This alone is a significant upgrade in camera handling for the D300S compared to the D300, and by itself would merit the upgrade in my case.

I wish any of these cameras could be programmed so that the LCD info screen would come on automatically between shots as can be done with the D40-style bodies. I think buyers of higher-end bodies probably consider this an unnecessary or amateur feature, but in my opinion, that is not so at all! Especially when shooting on a tripod, the info screen is a much quicker and more complete information reference than the top LCD, and especially if ALL the settings could be set directly through it, this would be another extremely valuable aid to quick settings changes. Today's cameras have so many settings, and they need to be changed so often to get the best possible image, that anything Nikon could do to give users quicker access to more settings would be a step forward for photographers of any experience level.

Other major differences between the D90 and D300S are, in order of approximate decreasing importance to me, are: 1) Better focus system on D300 and D300S, 2) External buttons and switches to quickly change focus and meter settings on D300 and D300S, 3) Usefully quicker continuous shooting speed on D300 and even quicker on D300S (4.5fps for D90, 6fps for D300, 7fps for D300S), 4) Decently weather-sealed body on D300 and D300S, 5) Rugged pro build quality on D300 and D300S (comes at a cost, though, much larger and heavier), 6) AF fine-tuning on D300 and D300S. There are many more differences between the cameras than these, but these are the ones that matter to me.

There is one more biggie. The D300S, unlike either the D300 or D90 (or D700 for that matter), has two memory card slots, and I happen to love the fact that one holds an SD card and the other a CF card. Most pros prefer CF cards. I'm not a pro, and I prefer SD cards. What I love about this feature, though, is that there is a setting which allows the camera to write a jpeg to one card and a RAW file to the other. I shoot jpeg most of the time but RAW some of the time, and this is by far the easiest way to go between jpeg-only and jpeg-plus-RAW, while ALSO getting all the RAW shots segregated from the jpegs so that you can later decide either to discard them, or to download them to a different folder, at a different time, without any fancy file-download trickery. When not using this feature the second card can be set to duplicate or to overflow, although I would prefer there to be more flexibility as to which card does what function.

While the D300S is the "best" of these bodies in many ways, the features it has over the D90 are just not going to matter to everybody, and the D90 is smaller and lighter enough that it's very seriously worth considering if you don't need them. The D90 is one of the best-positioned, best bang for the buck bodies Nikon has yet made, while the D300S is a superb camera but gives diminishing returns for the dollar, and by the ounce, in comparison.

D300S vs D5000

I know beyond any doubt that there are a lot of photographers buying pro cameras that would be much better served with a smaller, easier to use, easier to carry and handle and store body, and if you can't decide whether to start slow or to go all-out with a pro body, you should really take a look at the D5000. In terms of its ability to capture any given image, the D5000 is the equal of the D300S, and only the time it takes to get that image, or the variety of lenses you can use to do so, really differs. The handling of the D300S, with its multiplicity of features and settings, is going to slow down, not speed up, the process for people who don't use the camera often enough to stay fluent in the layout of its controls and functions. The D5000 gives you much of the flexibility, all of the image quality, and less size, cost, and weight. I personally enjoy the smaller cameras very much. I prefer their smaller size and only use the larger, heavier bodies because they have capabilities the smaller bodies lack, and those capabilities are important to me. If those capabilities are of questionable importance to you, consider your needs carefully before you encumber yourself with their extra weight and extra expense.

Conclusion

I'm going to give the D300S a rating of four stars. Clearly it is only intended to be a minor upgrade with respect to the D300, and it uses the same now-aging sensor used in all these cameras, so it's natural to expect that it is not a blockbuster on the new camera scene. It's not intended to be: Nikon has been busy developing FX bodies and adding to its lens line over the past year or two. This particular corner of the lineup is getting a breather. It is a tremendously competent camera, the top DX body currently available from Nikon, and an excellent tool for the job of photography under almost all conditions. It would be surprising not to see an improvement on the subject of sensor technology within the coming months or year, which would be incorporated into a successor in time. I do think Nikon needs to get to work figuring out ways to make the control interfaces of today's pro cameras more intuitive to use. Better menu systems, more easily accessed; more flexibility in the use of the rear LCD to view and change settings; more flexibility in the enabling of custom menus and setting banks (which are useful but limited as currently implemented), would be high on my list of improvements. Nikon by its nature prefers to evolve its cameras incrementally over a period of years, and although that's a good strategy in some ways, other times it means we get stuck with "legacy" after-effects: backwards-reading meters, mechanical lens interfaces, and old style menu systems that have begun to overflow their banks. Some streamlining of the user experience would make the cameras easier, quicker and more flexible in use.

In a relative sense, though, those things remain nitpicks. The D300S is the best camera for my needs currently on the market.

Read Best Reviews of Nikon D300s 12.3MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II Lens Here

Bought this camera recently to replace the many years, but still trusty Nikon D200. Took both of them on a road trip recently and was extremely please with the Nikon D300s. The auto focus was super fast and accurate. The video feature was a nice bonus. While I wouldn't use it often, it does come in handy when I want to illustrate to my friends and families certain scenic views I come across.

The ability to shoot many frames per second and the auto focus system being able to keep up with it was beyond my own expectation. The picture quality and low level noise was nice. I was able to do ISO-1600 perfectly where I couldn't before using D200.

Highly recommend this camera to anyone.

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I recently upgraded from the D80 to the D300s. I was actually saving up for the 300 and they released the 300s. This is the top of the line DX camera from Nikon which is loaded with features. I can't compare the 300 to the 300s and you can go on line to sites like Ken Rockwell to see a break down comparison. However, compared to my old D80 this camera was a big upgrade.

With the purchase of this camera I was quickly forced to learn more about photography and after about 3 weeks or so I can now say that I have a good understanding of the camera it's features and settings. The D80 has pre programmed shooting settings e.g. (landscape, nightshot, portrait, Auto etc.) which automatically sets everything for you. This camera really forces you to learn about photography. ISO's WB, shutter speed, aperature etc. If you are looking for a more user friendly camera with pre programmed setting I would go with the D90. If you want a more serious enthusiast to pro level camera than the D300s is your choice.

The D300s also has a video mode which in my opinion isn't half bad. However, if video is not that important to you I would go with a used D300 which you can probably get a great deal on. I've taken some video with this camera and the mic is very sensitive. I wouldn't try using the video for recording live shows which I did. Even at low sensitivity mic settings I had problems with the sound. The good thing is the 300s has an external mic connection. I believe the D90 does not. I haven't experimented with this feature.

Picture quality has been great! However, i've always been a firm believer that aside from the camera the lens plays a major role in picture quality. If you want superb pics I suggest investing in good lenses.

I use this camera mainly for sports and action photography. The D300s provides 7fps and with the external MB battery pack 8fps. My old D80 shot at 3-4fps. I have definitely seen a huge difference in this regard. This camera is super fast! I wanted a fast camera and this is exactly what I got.

So far so good and I'm really satisfied!

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Toshiba PDR-2300 2MP Digital Camera w/ 3x Optcial Zoom

I just bought this camera from Circuit City for a 150 bucks during the friday after thanksgiving sale.. It is a great value.. It has 3x optical zoom (something you will find only in expensive cameras) as well as 2x digital zoom. As far as the picture quality it is great, with crisp colour images especially in the highest resolution..

Pros:

1. Great picture quality

2. Very cheap (Relatively good brand) I tried a camera called Argus before The difference is huge!!

3. The LCD is very good.. I recommend a screen protector (you can buy one from those sold for PDAs and cut it to fit the LCD).

4. It uses SD cards (better than CF cards)

5. Nice case!

6. Super Easy installation , Windows XP detected it without even using the installation CD.

I gave it 4 stars because of the following drawbacks:

1. The lens cover is not automatic (You have to put it and take it off manually everytime you want to use the camera and it looks bad when it hangs of the camera (like the 50s style).

2. It uses non-rechargable batteries, 4 batteries are included though.

3. A little bit bulky (not like the more expensive sony and cannon).

4. 8MB is OK however 16 MB would be better.. I have a 128MB SD card so that solved my problems...

In short:

This camera is good if you care about the functionality and don't care about the appearence. (It is not worth spending a [X] to get a better looking sony or cannon). If you have rechargable batteries and an SD card, I think you won't have a problem with this cam.

I purchased this camera about 3 months ago from Circuit City on a store special for [money]. It was my first digital camera (though I have used friends digicams before and I own a camcorder) and I am very happy with it. I initially did not purchase the memory card and just shot pics with it and uploaded them to the computer before the batteries died (held about 30 800x600 high res pics) but I bought a 64MB memory stick after about a month and it was well worth the [money]. I use the 800x600 mode (high res, the camera supports both 1600x1200 and 800x600 in three resolutions; high, medium and low) and now get about 300 photos per memory card, far more than I need. The 3x optical zoom is an excellent feature as is the manual override for lighting, flash and white level. I have not used the video mode since I already own a camcorder, but for still images, this camera is great. It presents the internal photos to the computer as a removable disk drive (under Windows) which is also awesome ! I strongly recommend this camera for first timers or those who want a cheap digicam they can tote around to the beach, etc. Battery life is usually about 100 pictures (if you turn off the LCD) which is quite good. You can also view internal photos on the LCD and zoom then 2x and 4x which is quite handy. Picture quality is very good.

Buy Toshiba PDR-2300 2MP Digital Camera w/ 3x Optcial Zoom Now

I bought this camera for an online course in computer graphics and this camera was the perfect tool. It has many functions and modes as well as a 15 sec video capture. The picture quality is nice and this camera is really easy to use. The only withdraw is that it guzzles batteries. But you can solve this problem by buying rechargable batteries.

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I got this camera for Christmas and so far I am pleased. As soon as I opened the box I began taking pictures. I found this camera very easy to use. The 1.6 in. tft lcd is great and I was surprized by the quality of the images. If you want a good 2.0 starter digital camera this one is definitely worth considering.

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I bought this camera 2 years ago and have not been disappointed. I haven't had any problems and I'm very pleased with the quality of pics this camera gives. I have had no problems with grainy pics, or taking pics indoors or out. It also has a great red eye reduction feature and I never have to do touch up to get the red out of eyes.

I did purchase rechargable batteries because it does go through regular batteries quite fast. But since I've started using the rechargable batteries, I've had no complaints!

I really believe it's how you use it and what you're using it for on how you'll feel about this digital. I'm very glad I purchased it.

Pentax X-5 Megazoom 16.0 MP Digital Camera (Silver) with 16GB Card + Batteries/Charger + Case + 2 T

This camera is perfect for someone on a budget but needing some of the more sophisticated features of cameras with interchangeable lenses. At 57 I'm just now getting back into photography after a 30 year absence, and I needed something simple, yet professional in it's aspects. And when it comes to teaching an old dog new tricks, this camera does it very nicely. I started out in 35mm film and the Pentax X-5 is the perfect camera to learn digital photography. Pentax is one of the best cameras on the market and this one does not disappoint. Battery life is superb, picture quality is excellent, and it fits my average hands very comfortably. I expected something more 'plastic', considering the price, but the weight, design, and sturdy construction gives this camera the feel of a 'real professional'. And you can't beat the price!

Overall, this great little camera will have you creating beautiful photos and artwork in a snap. The manual, which came with mine (I understood from various sources that I would have to download it but was pleasantly surprised otherwise) explains everything in great detail, with plenty of images and charts to teach you everything you need to know. To all those other fancy smancy high priced models...eat your heart out!! This is a real winner for Pentax!

I am not a professional photographer, I am only a person who enjoys taking photos of wild life, landscapes, etc. and this camera does it all. The zoom is fantastic, I can take photos of birds close up even though I am fifty feet away from the subject. The pictures are clear, colorful, and the camera has several different settings. Great camera.

Buy Pentax X-5 Megazoom 16.0 MP Digital Camera (Silver) with 16GB Card + Batteries/Charger + Case + 2 T Now

Bought this as a gift for my daughter. She loves it. Takes great pictures and she was more than pleased with all the extras that came with it. Very prompt arrival easily beating the estimate! I'd have given it 5 stars had it not been for the camera coming with a battery that I suspect was defective. It would need recharging after only taking a few pictures. Ordered a replacement at another vendor and the cost was minimal. Would encourage anyone to buy this product from the vendor!

Read Best Reviews of Pentax X-5 Megazoom 16.0 MP Digital Camera (Silver) with 16GB Card + Batteries/Charger + Case + 2 T Here

D-Link DCS-3220G CCD 2-Way Audio 4x Zoom 802.11g 54Mbps Wireless Internet Camera

The Camera is very hard to install. It is not possible to do it yourself unless you are very familiar with getting free dns service configured. It is not able to work with my main stream wireless router from Netgear. The wait for help over the phone was over 30 min. It is not possible to view it from computers not on your network without free dns service, no instructions on how to do it in any case. The bottom line, stear clear of this mess unless you plan to hard wire it. That is what i will try next.

Fortunately, I'm not having any of the problems others have listed, such as network dropouts, item DOA, or initial network connection issues. To these people I would recommend they contact the person who installed and configured their wireless network, because they'll need the WEP code and SSID (Wireless network name) to connect their camera.

Installation was pretty straight forward with the right information about the network. Signal strength is fine wherever it may roam (more on this later), and while the audio is a little scratchy, it's a bonus feature I'm just tickled to have at all. Color is OK.

Some people have said they have problems accessing it over the Internet after a period of time. I don't use the camera this way so I can't comment on this. I should point out that I use the camera in what is probably an unconventional manner. After I tested it out, and knew it worked well (the other reviews had me nervous), I removed the antennae and hooked up a signal booster (basically a stronger, powered antenna), tossed the AC-DC adapter and replaced it with a battery pack (to make it truly wireless), and connected it to a servo controlled pan/tilt bracket, then screwed the whole thing onto the front of a robot (think Martian rover). Just for kicks, I plugged in a small set of old speakers to make the audio 2-way. The audio/video stream can be added to any webpage with some JavaScript code, and with this it can be incorporated into custom control software for any electronic devices (like robots, or pan/tilt brackets) you might have in use with the camera.

For really basic features, you don't even need to install the D-Link software, you don't need more than the A/V stream, because all the essential controls are built into the JavaScript (video zoom, audio volumes/mutes, and a PTT button to talk through the speakers). So once you have the D-Link software installed on one system, config the camera and get everything working, you can access the A/V stream from another computer with minimal fuss.

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My 3220G died as soon as I applied the latest firmware. I had first tried the 6620G ($750!) and it froze up constantly, lost its wireless grip, didn't return reliably to location settings... All in all a great concept but D-Link doesn't deliver. No tech support. Don't waste your time with these cameras. I had to return both the 3220G and 6620G to Amazon.

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Camera died after firmware upgrade using the ethernet port to perform upgrade as Dlink recommends. I bought from Ebay new and Dlink refused to replace or repair. So beware if you pay several hundred dollars make sure you buy it from a authorized dealer or Dlink want work on it or even attempt to help you get it repaired. Think twice about buying Dlink because down the road you may have to throw it away regardless of the price you paid. Need to research other brands and see what their repair policy is after warranty, from unauthorized seller, or buying used.

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I'm not a system analyst, so I need really clear instructions for any new device. I bought this camera 1 year ago to use as a home security camera which I could view from the Internet at my office.

Troubles I encountered:

1.) Set up was impossible. I finally figured out that I had to disable the wep on my wireless network thus inviting all my neighbors to free Internet connection. I wasn't willing to do this.

2.) I could view from the Internet within my home network, but not from my office.

3.) Had to convince one of my company's IT system analysts to visit me at home and trouble shoot the camera's system. Took her 3 hours of guess work but she successfully set it up and keep my network secure-which worked until I had to reset my router. 2 weeks of use in one year.

4.) I have never been able to have the camera send "snap shots" to my e-mail or ftp folder. D-Link tech support confirmed that I was setting it up correctly... but the feature doesn't work. I was told by D-Link tech support that I may need to disable my Internet security program. No can do.

5.) D-Link tech support may not have access to this productthey are not able to respond to my inquiries. They would send me answersbut not to the questions I asked!

6.) The weather protection cover is not designed for wireless antenna and has been out of stock each time I have tried to purchaseso I have not been able to install on the outside of my home. It therefore must be used inside which is not what I need. I could have paid < $80 for an indoor camera.

Every so often, when I have a few hours to burn, I drag it out and try to make the thing work. For the couple weeks it was viewable on the Internet it provided a nice view of my home, but it wasn't useful without snapshots or any type of archived image documentation.

Polaroid Pro Video Condenser Shotgun Microphone For The Canon Vixia HF R300, R30, R32, R200, R20, R

I just got this microphone today for my Vixia HF R10 camera. I did a test of it, comparing the recording quality of this microphone with the on-board microphone and must say the difference is quite astonishing. The only reason I see why this is labeled for the models stated is likely just because of the mount used. As long as the camera you plan on using this for has a 3.5 mm plug for an audio input (like on a standard computer) it doesn't matter what camera you have.

This is a shotgun (directional) mic as the product's name says, and it does a pretty good at ignoring the sound that comes in from the background too. Making it a perfect choice for anyone who doesn't want to spend a lot of money on a product. The two modes (90 and 120 degrees) allows you to change the range at which sound can be detected by the mic.

Although the mic can be a bit awkward to use as a handheld mic, like the street interviewers on the mainstream media news outlets and those you would see at concerts, it is a perfect choice for someone wanting near professional sound quality, at a low cost. The only downside that the LED indicator only blinks once to let you know that it's on, and according to the product description, flash when the battery is getting low on power.

There is no top mount on the Canon Vixia HFR300, so although this microphone does attach with the correct jack, in order to mount it on the camera you need another mount.

Buy Polaroid Pro Video Condenser Shotgun Microphone For The Canon Vixia HF R300, R30, R32, R200, R20, R Now

polariod pro video condenser shotgun microphone, it is say that is for the canon vixia fs400,but when i buy it, i cant use it, because i have a canon fs400 and i can find the way to unplug the microphone anywhere, the only unplug that the camcoder have is the av ,but for the microphone i dont know, how it work with other camcorder, but with the canon fs400, i dont know why a buy this microphone

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