Gateway DC-M50 5MP Digital Camera w/ 3x Optical Zoom

Do Not Buy this camera! Far from user friendly...lsd display works only in very well lite areas....to take a picture you need to hold the button down for a good 5 or 6 seconds....heavy and bulky...batteries are dead in about 1 hour of actual use (no joke) takes 4 AA batteries. Not pleased at all...its on its way back to Amazon...exchanging for a Canon....don't let the 5mp sell you on this camera...i hope this sends you in a different direction....sorry I dragged this out..

I agree that it is not on par with other "5 megapixel" cameras, but it was also much more affordable. The picture quality was crisp and easy to transfer to my computer. No need to buy a docking station or other peripheral hardware. If you're looking for an affordable camera on a budget, this does the trick.

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I can't believe all the bad reviews!!!

Read the directions people!

If you hold the button halfway down it focuses, and then you can take the picture instantly. If you just try to press and take it will take a few seconds for the photo to take.

I love this camera, it takes great pictures! I also did not notice the batteries dying quickly, maybe they left it on between photo's?

Great camera, sturdy! Love the short movie taking mode!

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I bought this camera directly from Gateway. I, unfortunately, kept it too long to send it back.

When I first received it, I took about 10 pictures. 8 of them were very grainy/blurry. From a 5MP camera, that's ridiculous. I assumed (fallaciously) that I simply was not using the camera correctly.

My attempt to learn to use the camera 'properly' is what caused my delay in returning it, and forced me to sell it on eBay for significantly less than I paid for it.

Don't buy this camera.

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I thought this camera would be a great value for the amount of Mega-pixels. It isn't worth it.

Issues:

1. Horrible lag from the moment you push the button to actual shutter movement.

2. The camera's body and telescoping lense feel CHEAP and poorly fitted.

3. I'm having memory card issues/errors that I haven't been able to solve yet.

Save your money and get a recognized brand.

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Pyle PHDMRT6 Horizontal Swivel HDMI Cable with Heavy Duty Fiber Shielding (6 feet, Black)

This cable is so nice, flexible, amazing, in every way. Fits perfectly under my Samsung 32' which is on a low profile wall mount. Amazing works great.

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CIB CUC7281 700TVL Outdoor CCD Bullet Infrared Day Night Security Camera w/ S...

I just received this in the mail. I will update as I learn more.

1. No Power supply was shipped with the product. So far that is why I am giving it 3 stars.

Clover Electronics CA060 60-Feet 6-Pin Din Cable - Small (Black)

This is not a picture of what I got. Three times you sent me the cables with two male ends. You cannot extend this cable with two male ends. The picture clearly shows one male end and one female end. I had to spend an extra $20 at another site to buy an adapter to make these work. I am very displeased with Amazon.com and will probably never use it again.

Lee Burgin

This is a competitively priced item with good value.The connecters do not show clear direction of the connection points. There is an arrow showing which way it supposed to go in but because the whole thing is rounded, it is hard to find the right match to connect. Otherwise, it is an excellent product.

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I ordered this cable for my security camera and it works great. It is a Male-Male cable, so dont mistake it for a Female-Male cable.

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X-Rite i1 EOPHO Photo Pro

This item is a great product for monitor and RGB printer profiling. However there is one thing I wish I knew before I purchased this version. It will not profile a printer paper that has any type of "Optical Brighteners".

My main paper to print on is a Glossy Canon Paper, after I created a profile and used it to print, the whites and lighter color grays are yellow.

I contacted technical support from X-Rite over their Email system and they were very prompt in replying to my questions. Their support was quick and very helpful.

It turns out that this non UV-CUT version is not to be used with OBC papers and it is recommend by X-Rite that the UV-CUT version be used since it ignores the OBC reflections of the UV light that affects the profiles. This device can not be upgraded to a UV -Cut version, the device is built and calibrated in Switzerland and once setup for UV or Non UV they can not be changed.

Based on the assistance from X-Rite I profiled a non OBC paper and the results are stunning. Colors are spot on!!!!

I am using an IMAC 24". (Yea not the best monitor for Photo Retouching but I did get a good Monitor Profile using the X-Rite and the Shades APP to dim the screen. Using Lightroom 3 for the adjustments and printing.

Canon Pro9500 13" printer with 10 pigmented inks. After I profiled the non OBC paper I was very happy with the profile results, as I stated earlier the colors were perfect and the pictures turned out beautiful.

Since Most of my printing is done on OBC paper and X-Rite recommened the UV-Cut Version. I am returning this version and will purchase the UV-Cut version.

I bought this as an upgrade to my ColorMunki (also an Xrite product), to give me better printer profiles. At first the profiles I was getting wasn't very good or should I say worst than the ColorMunki's. After some investigation, I figured out the problem on my own. Xrite's web site has plenty of training videos and webinars to help you if you have trouble.

Likes:

1. The USB connection is 150% better that the one for the ColorMunki. I no longer have to worry about the cord coming loose and having to recalibrate the instrument.

2. Printer profiles that have a greater degree of accuracy (once you make sure to turn off all the color management).The software is more in-depth and has way more options on what kind of profiles you want to make. I printed out a 400 patch profile for my printer in one sitting. Compared to the ColorMunki's 50 patch. Sure you can add to the profile with the Colormunki to fine tune the profile, but why not get it all done at once? I can print a 1200 patch profile with the i1 and be done with it.

3. Easy of use. Like I said before the cord can come loose with the ColorMunki which makes profiling the monitor and the printer a pain in the butt. The i1 comes with a track system that will hold the paper for you and and allows you to guide the instrument with easy. They also have a robotic arm that will do it for you. But I will never need it. I don't have to make profiles for 1,000 printers. A little note about using the i1 when measuring the prints, hold the button until you hear the noise coming from your computer. I had my volume turned off to begin with and I wasn't waiting long enough for the i1 to get ready to measure. So I was getting errors about the readings. It would say it didn't read enough patches.

4. Includes hard proof materials. The best way to check the accuracy of the prints is to print out the Colorchecker proof target and physically compare it to the provided Color checker proofer. This comes in handy to adjust the display angle also. It also comes with a ColorChecker Classic which is used for making camera profiles. I haven't used it because I use the ColorChecker passport. But I know it works, because it's the same chart.

5. Monitor profiles are better than the ColorMunki's. It is not a night and day difference, but there is a difference. The i1 will send up more colors to the screen to measure, so it is going to be a better profile. It will also take control of the monitor and adjust the setting for you. Which comes in handy.

Dislikes:

1. Price. They would sell a whole lot more if they come off the price a little bit. But then again I don't see why I would ever have to buy another calibrator. So it saves money in the long run.

2. It comes with a bunch of pieces you have to attach to use for the various readings you might want to take. The ColorMunki is pretty much self contained. At least it comes with protective case to put everything in, that's a bonus.

In closing if you need something to make great profiles to print with then you need this. If you need it just to calibrate the monitor then this is over board for what you need. Just get the i1 display or something else.

I own the ColorMunki and i1 Photo Pro and I have own the Spyder but I returned it because of software issues. So far the i1 is a great buy. I will update if I ever have any problems with it.

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The X-Rite photo pro is one of the more expensive color calibrators but it's definitely worth the money. I have used the Spyder range of products after being wooed into with all the marketing and recommendations only to find the product does not give good results. The Photo Pro calibrated my monitors bang on as well as my prints.

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MOBI MobiCam Ultra 900 MHz Monitoring System with SW Power

This product really needs to back to the design board. I am a new father and thought this would be an amazing addition to the collection of baby products that we invested in. however no, it is not. the IDEA of it is great, but in practical applications it is of little use.

The audio it sub par. for a produt that cost nearly 200 dollars and it labeled with the ULTRA classification one would expect amazing performance. however it is quite lackluster. The audio is something that has been mastered by other baby monitor manufacturers so one would expect that this one would be too. Not so. The audio is unusable. I had to go and purchase a 30 dollar baby monitor to hear my child.

The Video. well, that is what this product is for right? well, good luck. I happen to live in New York city so the is interference all around. as well as a WiFi network in my apartment. In this day and age of everything wireless one would expect a product costing 200 dollars to have some sort of RF rejection circuity to make sure that the signal to get through to the unit. Not so. I understand that it is on the 900Mhz spectrum which should not interfere with the 2.4 Ghz spectrum of Wifi and cordless phones. but no, the video constantly rolls and is barely usable. The Night vision is a nice idea, however the IR lights that help the night vision work are too strong, so the image is blown out when trying to place the camera at a distance where one can see the eyes of the little one to know if they are awake. So then placing the unit at a distance so that the night vision actually works puts the camera too far away to see their eyes in the day time. it is a toss up.

Overall i am very dissatisfied with this product. It functions only now to be used in addition to a 30 dollar baby monitor to see if the little one is moving around. not as the primary monitor, which i thought it would be.

The video sounds cool and is a neat idea, but a webcam might be a better option if you have a computer.

plus the receiver unit/video mointor EATS batteries. It should have an option to just use the microphone, that way it would be more economical.

My husband and I purchased the Mobicam 70007 to use as a baby monitor (although, it can be used for other things). I really wanted the video portion so I could see my son at night and not have to panic running into his room to make sure he was ok. It helps me sleep well since I can just open my eyes and see him (even when he was in our room in the pack and play, I had to get up and walk over there to see him...so this is way easier). The picture is fairly good as long as you don't have any "interference" (like a cordless phone, microwave, running fan, or anything else like that around). I find it gives a lot of static at times, which is frustrating.

There are two things everyone should be aware of:

1) Mobi's customer service is non-existent. I wrote in with a simple question over a month ago and never heard back. That is UNACCEPTABLE to me. Not even an auto-generated response. This alone will keep me from buying any more of their products since they obviously don't care about you once you buy from them.

2) You will need to keep the camera AND receiver/monitor both plugged in almost all the time. The camera is easy to plug in, but the monitor eats through batteries. So while it seems convenient to have it be wireless and portable, you'll have to change batteries literally every day! But, keeping it plugged in most of the time is ok.

Overall, this product does what it needs to do and helps me sleep at night. I'm just disappointed in the "service" from Mobi, which leaves a bad taste in my mouth after spending a good deal of money with them for a product I had to wait a month to get.

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The system would get 5 stars if not for interference it gets almost non-stop.

I don't own anything else in the 900Mhz range, yet the system receives so much static sound that it's almost unusable. I have used 900Mhz/2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz phones and none of them ever had this kind of static.

Read Best Reviews of MOBI MobiCam Ultra 900 MHz Monitoring System with SW Power Here

I echo the previous comment. We bought this unit so we would be able to see our daughter in her crib while she slept. In reality all we were able to see was "snow" on the camera and we had to keep the volume all the way down so we wouldn't hear the static from the unit. The only time we were able to get a clear picture was when the camera and the receiver were in the same room together. I wrote to their tech support and all they could tell me is that there was interference with something else in our house.

We have since spent a little extra money and purchased an AVTech Solutions monitor with much better results. The screen is bigger and the images are much clearer. It is well worth the extra money.

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I returned this monitor after 2 days. I could not get it to stop crackling (popping static sound) intermittently. Also, if you don't have the camera wall mounted, in order to use the night vision option, you have to lift the camera and move a button under the unit. This is not practical since you run the risk each time of not repositioning the camera correctly. Then you have to set the switch again in the AM. This just wasn't the product I expected for this price.

Nikon D800 36.3 MP CMOS FX-Format Digital SLR Camera (Body Only)

I know that the D800 is not really the replacement model over the D700. Nevertheless, it did replace my old D700 and the D800 is, I believe, better suited for my photographic needs than the D700, i.e., studio, portraits, and landscape.

The D700 was and still is an outstanding DSLR. The D800 is of course better, but in a very perceptible way, which was quite a surprise to me.

I have done over 5000 shots since my purchase on 24 March. So far, no issues to report: no green cast from the LCD and no problems with the CLS system.

Nikon has really outperformed with this new DSLR and the clear improvements are:

Much improved Dynamic Range, which was my main problem since my first DSLR

Better colors straight off the camera: deeper and richer

Better AF in low light ***UPDATE*** After comparing with older Nikon DSLRs, this improvement is minor and only perceptible on cross-type AF points.

Highly detailed photographs at full res, 100% magnification and also when down-scaling the photos.

Let's not forget a proper and useable HD video feature at broadcasting quality. ***UPDATE*** Perhaps not broadcasting quality, but close enough.

On the negative side (there has to be some):

The zoom in and zoom out buttons are reversed from the old models, which is now more logical, but I am used to the old wrong way! it's a minor problem of course.

D4 has backlit buttons, why not on the D800? This can't be that expensive to include.

Very expensive Battery pack, this is a major drawback for me. But yes, the D800 is well priced at $3000. I just hate ridiculously priced accessories.

still wonder the point of having 1 CF slot and 1 SD slot. 2 CF slots would have been superb. But I guess if you come from a SD card DSLR, that would be practical for you.

Left AF points can suffer from front/back focusing issues on wide angle lenses, but this can be fixed at a Nikon repair center under warranty ***UPDATE***

One crucial point that has to be considered when acquiring a 36MP DSLR: storage will be an issue. I just purchased a 4TB ext hard drive. A 14-bit RAW file (uncompressed) coming from the D800 will average 75MB.

I just shot a wedding, and I consider the D800 to be an excellent choice for the job. All the complains about shots being more blurry at 100% magnification are irrelevant. One has to be precise with his/her settings, at the right exposure and optimal shutter speed, results can be absolutely mind-blowing. And since most won't need 36MP for wedding photographs, down-scaling images will certainly eliminate slight camera-shake or noise.

One particular aspect that I appreciate is that my Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G is now tack-sharp at f/1.4. I had a front focusing issue with my old D700 even with the fine-tune option set to max. Since I'm no techie geek, I still don't understand why the D700 gave me problems with the 85mm.

Anyway, I used to be one of those people saying that digital photography will never replace film photography. The D800 has changed all that.

********* Update 04/15/2013 *********

My update is geared toward event shooters, for still-life and landscape shooters, my original review stands.

After a year of ownership with two bodies, here are my final thoughts:

This is the best landscape or studio DSLR in the market. Other than not having Custom User Settings (U1, U2) like the D600, D7000, and top-tier Canon DSLRs, this camera has great ergonomics with tons of highly customizable buttons to control the most used functions.

For wedding, amateur sports, or anything that requires accurate, consistent autofocus (AF) look elsewhere. I have had both bodies and a replacement body (serial 3041XXX) "fixed" by Nikon and they feel the latest fixes are good enough. Good enough, I did not invest $18,000 in to a system for good enough!

Without getting into the whole Left Side AF saga, which is readily available on other reviews and websites, the AF is horribly inconsistent even with the latest firmware (A: 1.01/B:1.02) using the center AF sensor with AF-S. Worse even is the AF-C, if shooting a person walking towards the camera at a slow to medium pace in the F/1.4-2.0 range, expect 1 out of 10 perfectly focused, 2 acceptable, and 7 throwaways. I took a huge financial hit switching to Canon (selling used, buying new), however, my two Canon 5DMK3s get 5 perfectly focused, 4 acceptable, and about 1 throwaway running the same test of a person walking towards the camera.

Ergonomically speaking, Nikon did many things better than Canon. Spot metering is based on AF point, AF points viewable in dark scenes, more direct buttons, intelligent Auto ISO, non-finicky AF selector, Flash options (HSS, Rear Curtain Sync, etc.) are quickly accessible with button on camera, able to select full stop exposure increments, and many more. Overall less menu digging, and obviously Nikon's megapixel advantage is nice for cropping, although 12 MP is more than enough for 99.5% of printing, it is nice being able to crop heavily in post. I really wanted this camera to work, in fact my cameras made over ten trips to Nikon service centers in CA and NY, and they never got them to work, their CS is beyond atrocious and their technicians are incompetent.

The Canon's sensor seems like 2008 tech, but as I mentioned the AF performance is superior. I would rather have a focused image taken by an average sensor, than a blurred image taken by a sensor with all the dynamic range and megapixels in the world. Average in today's terms is still amazing, I just have to be more careful and ensure accurate exposure.

BOTTOM LINE:

If you are a photographer that uses Zeiss lenses for landscape, or only use the center AF in the aperture range of F/5.6-11 and then recompose while in a controlled setting, this camera will amaze you. However, if you shoot wide open with fast primes and not getting the "shot" puts yourself or company at risk, look into another camera (i.e. D4, D3s, Canon 1 Series, 5D MK3).

I am a full-time wedding photographer, if my livelihood did not depend on camera equipment, I would have stayed with Nikon because of its superior user interface. However, in my line of work there are no do-overs, thus the Nikon advantages gave way to its faults, and after struggling with Nikon's abysmal QC and CS, I could not reward them by buying two D4's.

********* ********* ********* *********

...

See that my purchase is verified by Amazon. Below are my observations after one month of ownership.

Pros:

+ Resolution: With the right lenses and on the right settings the detail is astonishing.

+ Dynamic Range: Incredible, when shooting in lower ISO's it is near impossible to ruin a photo. Search the internet "fred miranda d800 review Yosemite" to see real life comparisons.

+ Color: Adobe profiles in LR and ACR are horrible, create custom profiles using a X-Rite ColorChecker Passport Software and then tweak it with Adobe DNG profiler for better colors.

+ AutoWB: Works well in about 70% of lighting scenarios, somewhat better than the D3/D700. *** See Tip Below ***

+ Low ISO: Having a true 100 ISO is godsend for on-location lighting setups.

+ High ISO: The D800 and LR4 do an excellent job in controlling noise. Using PS plugins a properly exposed image can print acceptable 6x9's at 12800 ISO (max for D3/D700's is 6400).

+ Tonality: With a good camera profile in LR4, the tonal range rivals Fujifilm 400H Film. This is incredibly useful on portraits with 4-1 or greater lighting ratios. Posterization in the shadows (DSLRs Achilles' heel) is only noticeable on highly manipulated images.

+ Handling: The auto ISO is easy to engage and the new position of the ISO button is more intuitive when looking through the viewfinder than on the D700. Like the D700, the D800 is extremely customizable.

Neutral:

~ Handling: I prefer the AF switches of the D700. The magnification + are opposite from the D700, a small irritation.

~ Exposure: Better than D3/D700, but far from perfect. Contrary to Nikon's literature, it struggles with backlit scenes.

~ Frames per second: I rarely shoot in continuous, and when I do, I have my D3/D700 set to CL (continuous low-speed) of 2 FPS.

~ Battery Performance: It can get me through a full day's shoot if I avoid extensive LiveView or WiFi use, otherwise I need to use a backup battery.

~ Autofocus: The AF is very similar to the D3/D700, good but could have been better.

Cons:

Software: Nikon software can produce excellent results, but it is clunky and slow.

Handling: The mode selector button is awkwardly placed. I prefer the D7000 U1/U2 style custom banks.

JPEG: Lacking when compared to Olympus, Panasonic, and Canon. ALWAYS SHOOT RAW!

Autofocus: 1.) All 51 points are still too centrally located 2.) No increase in cross-type sensors over the D3/D700 3.) All the cross-type AF sensors are in the middle. 4.) Like the D3/700, the outer sensors are near useless in low lit, low contrast situations.

LiveView: There is a well reported bug when using LiveView at 100% viewing, although I am still able to focus, I heard that is a deal-breaker for many landscape shooters. I have no idea how people survived 100 years of film or shoot $20k+ Hasselblad's.

*** TIP *** Remove the dreaded Nikon green cast by shifting the WB Fine-Tune (pg. 149) 1 or 2 points toward Magenta on each (AutoWB, Custom, Shade, Daylight, etc..) WB setting and get much better results short of using a QP Card 202/203 or X-Rite Passport for every scene change.

Summary:

Using proper technique, the images this camera produces are superior to any camera I ever shot. Would I jump systems for this camera? If I owned a large collection of top-tier gear, NO! Otherwise, I would consider it if I was not too invested. Does it equal or better Medium Format? There are differences in perspective, defraction limits, DOF, FOV, and CANNOT BE COMPARED.

Having shot Canon (AE-1, 630, A2, Elan II, 20D, 40D, 5D mkI & mkII, 1D's), Nikon (FM, F4, F100, D200, D300s, D7000, D700, D800, D3), Fuji (S3, S5), Mamiya (645, RB67), and Hasselblad (H4D-40), I know that they are excellent tools that are capable of creating amazing images. Pick the one that best fits your needs and go out and shoot.

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I'm a Sony shooter with only a few lenses. I use to shoot Canon during the film days. I tested both the Canon 5D mkIII and the Nikon D800 and here are my results. I tested a 5DmkIII with a 24-70 f2.8 lens and a Nikon D800 (not D800e) with a 24-70 f2.8 lens.

High ISO:

About the same, except D800 has a lot more detail to work with. In Lightroom, I can save a higher percentage of ISO 6400 shots because the D800 has more detail. Canon seems cleaner initially in Lightroom but when the picture fits into a 24" 1920x1080 monitor or a 64" Samsung plasma TV, the Nikon looks a tad cleaner, noise less noticeable. I think the Canon looks cleaner in Lightroom because it is just a smaller picture. But displaying ISO 6400 shots on a monitor or TV, Nikon looks nicer in general. Both cameras at ISO 12,800 look awful and not recoverable in Lightroom. It might look acceptable as a really small pic but why the heck would you buy an expensive camera to display crappy looking pictures?

Frames per second:

Easy winner. Canon can shoot 6 FPS, Nikon 4 FPS. However, in practice I think 4 FPS is pretty good. None of these cameras are really Olympic style sports cameras.

Resolution:

Easy winner. Nikon's RAW files are more detailed, almost 3D like. I can't really explain it other than the pictures look more real. I can crop a photo to 1/3 it's size (12 megapixels) and it still looks stunning. I wonder how much better the D800e version is. I'll have to wait until my friend receives his to find out.

JPEG:

Easy winner. Out of the camera, the Canon JPEGs are phenomenal. The processing done is quite remarkable.

RAW:

Easy winner. If you shoot RAW, Nikon is it. Also there is an issue with the Canon with the color red. I think the color is overblown at times because all the details are loss and not recoverable in Lightroom. Not always but it has happened at least twice. The same photo on the Nikon kept all the details.

Autofocus:

About the same. Canon and Nikon have awesomely quick autofocus and I couldn't determine a difference. The only caveat is that Nikon focuses better in lowlight (without the autofocus assist lamp) and also the Nikon focuses when there is almost no light (with the autofocus assist lamp). Why the heck doesn't Canon include an autofocus assist lamp is beyond me. Also, Nikon's face detection is extremely useful because it focuses right on the eyeballs.

Flash:

Easy winner. Canon doesn't have built in flash. Nikon flash worked surprisingly well.

Dynamic Range:

Easy winner. Nikon knocked it out of the park. I got a lot less blown highlights with shots with white clothing and more realistic blue skys. Also, there is a lot more headroom on both the highlights and shadows on the Nikon when editing in Lightroom. How did Nikon have better shadows and highlights! They have to share some of that technology!

Video:

Suprisingly about the same. I would have thought that Canon's lead in video would maintain. Surprisingly, the Nikon's video was just as awesome as the Canon. Nikon's video has a bit more detail and is definitely a little sharper than the Canon. I didn't test Nikon's uncompressed HDMI out, although it seems to be a useful feature (this is like RAW HDMI output for video). Canon should adopt uncompressed HDMI out also.

Price:

Easy winner. Why anyone (who doesn't already have Nikon or Canon lenses) would buy this Canon for $500 more than the Nikon would need to think twice. I can see why the Nikon is selling so much better than the Canon, at least on Amazon.

Comfort:

Both about the same weight. Both feel nice in the hand. Canon possibly slightly more comfortable if you have bigger hands. Nikon maybe more comfortable with smaller hands. Both are fine though.

USB transfer:

Nikon wins with USB 3.0. Skipping the card reader altogether by just plugging in the camera to the computer is convenient. Also the transfer speed is much much faster than Canon's older USB 2.0. This saves a lot of time.

LCD Screen:

Canon has slightly better screen in direct sunlight (LCD facing up towards the sun). Nikon is better when the LCD is not directly facing the sun. Nikon's screen is crisper and more 3D like.

Weatherproofing:

My last day of shooting was in a light mist/drizzle. I was shooting both cameras again for about 20 minutes when the Canon 5D mkIII developed some fogging inside the viewfinder screen. I could not wipe it away as it seemed to be inside the camera. I could no longer take pictures normally without live view. Nikon didn't have this problem and I continued to shoot the rest of the day with the Nikon in the same wet conditions without issue. I had planned to shoot at least 2 weeks with both cameras so this was definitely a bummer.

Lenses:

Both Canon and Nikon's 24-70 2.8 lenses are great. I would say the Canon 24-70 2.8 is just a tad faster on focus. Nikon is slightly sharper in the corners. Both Nikon and Canon seem to have a very comparable lens assortment (although my wallet won't be happy buying so many new lenses!)

Well, after using both cameras for about a week, I kept the Nikon D800 and returned my (possibly water damaged) Canon 5D mkIII. Both are phenomenal cameras but D800 has definitely outclassed the 5D mkIII in this round. Maybe Canon will come back strong with its next version. It definitely has some catching up to do.

Thanks for reading my review and I'll also post this on the Nikon D800 and Canon 5D mkIII review page. Best of luck to all you photogs and enjoy these phenomenal cameras!

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I have used the D700 bodies extensively over the past two years and I've grown accustomed to them like my own hands. The D700 has been hands down the best DSLR I've used during its time. I shoot weddings professionally and I almost always carry two D700 bodies on me and thus weight quickly adds up when you carry the 2 bodies along with lenses and flashes, which makes it nearly impossible for me to use the D3/D4 series. The D700 has been a blessing with the right balance of nearly everything.

How quickly has time gone by and now the D700 is giving way to the D800. Some say that the D800 isn't exactly the successor to the D700 and after the initial tests of my own, I tend to agree.

By now I'm sure you have seen countless reviews of this camera so I'm not going to bother telling you what's so good about it.

Instead, I'll focus on the main differences comparing to the D700.

My initial reactions holding the camera:

The body feels lighter, not by much, but definitely lighter

The grip feels different. Initially I think I still prefer the D700 grip better since the D800 grip feels fatter where your right index finger lies, not exactly a good thing for people with small/medium hands.

There is now an additional video record button near the shutter release button up top which is awesome,

but then that also moved the Mode Button which I often use, and they made the button smaller to make way for the video record button. This will take a little to get used to.

My initial reactions looking through the viewfinder:

The +/indicators are inverted by default (inverted by the usual Nikon standard: + / 0 / )

After a little digging it can be reversed in the Menu

There is now TWO virtual horizon indicators helping you level the camera rotating left/right, and tilting up/down this is absolutely awesome and extremely useful.

My initial handing the camera:

The 8-direction cursor button is more recessed, making it harder to accidentally hit the center button but I feel like the directional arrows are a tad harder to press

They reversed the positions of the (+) and (-) buttons on the left side making it more like the newer DSLRs. I'll be pressing the wrong button for a couple months before I adapt to this.

The focus mode button on the back is now gone, I accidentally pressed that old button on the D700 many times,

In place of it there's now a dedicated Live View button and there's an ambient light sensor next to it,

that sensor allows the camera to control the LCD monitor brightness automatically. It's an excellent implementation and seemingly work very well during my initial testings.

The D700 mode dial on the left had ISO, Qual, and WB; while the D800 now has an addition of BKT (bracketing) button there also. However they put BKT in place of ISO, and now ISO moved towards the back of the camera where there was nothing on the D700. This again, is something that will take time to get used to.

The AF mode toggle is changed to more like the D7000. The D700 has S (static), C (continuous), and M (manual), and this new one is either AF or M. There's a small button on top of the toggle that you hold down to change focus mode you use the command dial and sub command dial to change between AF-S and AF-C; 3D tracking, 9-point, 21-point, 51-point, single point. I'll just have to say it's different. The good: you can see what you're changing through the viewfinder I like especially the "3D" indication when you change into AF-C 3D tracking they used the 51 on the focusing screen to draw out "3D" which makes it very easy to see without having to look at the top LCD panel or digging into the Menu. This is a huge thing 'cause now you can easily change focus mode without taking your eye off the viewfinder and actually see what you're doing as you change focus modes.

I feel like my eye has to aim a little lower as I look through the viewfinder, again something to get used to.

The lock button when not reviewing picture is now dedicated to Picture Control making it much easier to access

The autofocus assist light is very very bright!

My initial findings using the camera:

image quality is amazing

the RAW files are huge... I find myself handing 40-50MB RAW images and my 16GB CF cards are no longer sufficient

LiveView is very easy to use and going into LiveView mode is very responsive.

For some reasons shooting pictures in LiveView keeps the shutter open for 3 seconds even when I'm shooting even 1/50 sec, making it hard to recognize when exactly the camera is shooting. I'm rather confused about whether this is by design or is it actually a bug.

Dual card slot is a nice addition, but I'm not sure if I'll be heavily relying on this or not given the file size is already so big. I may end up getting huge SD cards to have it capture JPG as a form of backup instead of having the SD also store RAW.

16GB cards store roughly 200 RAW pictures from what the camera estimates, ouch. This is based on 14-bit RAW files and lossless compression.

If you're wondering, there isn't a smaller file size for RAW images.

Battery is new, same as the D7000's. Say goodbye to your old EN-EL3e and say hello to EN-EL15.

There's now a Quiet shutter mode, but I find it only slowing down the shutter open/close motion a bit but not exactly very quiet.

Quick notes after using it on the field:

focus speed is on par with D700. I think the AF-C 3D tracking works even more accurately.

viewfinder 100% coverage is very nice, but I noticed the 51 points are closer to the center comparing to the D700. It's a minor annoyance.

The camera estimates 400 shots left on a 32GB card shooting 14-bit compressed RAW, but in reality after shooting 392 and it still estimates another 170 left. My RAW files range from 38MB to 50MB average around 43 to 44 range. I have a feeling they'll tweak the estimation a lil better on the next firmware update.

ISO800 images are very clean, I shot a few at ISO1600 where I normally would have busted out my flash. This is definitely a big step up from the D700.

The dedicated LiveView button is very very nice using LiveView video mode is quick and easy too and it saves a different set of iso/aperture/shutter speed so if you're switching from photo to video and back you wouldn't have to readjust all your settings.

The EN-EL15 batteries lasted me the whole event without a problem just like the EN-EL3e did on my D700 bodies.

LiveView shooting does lag in an annoying as shown in the initial testings. It takes a while for the camera to respond after shooting a LiveView picture.

Final Thoughts:

36MP is HUGE. It may not be for everyone, but then again the D800 along with that kind of resolution at $3,000 definitely has its impact on the DSLR market. Despite the difficulty handling large RAW files, it is generally a welcome additional along with its amazing image quality. Image quality is absolutely stunning DxO Mark rates it at 95 and calls it "A full-frame sensor with no weak points" for a good reason.

if you're wondering if there's different size for RAW, the answer is NO. There is no small medium large RAW RAW is RAW and it's always 36MP.

I hear some complaints about the placement for the video record button. It's a little off from the shutter button so it's not the easiest to reach, but you can also set up the shutter button to record video in LiveView video mode. Nikon definitely have it very well thought out implementing the video feature in the D800.

D700 users will have to take some time to get used to the changes in button placements, but nothing too drastic that might make it a deal killer.

The D800 takes a giant leap into the cinematography world with features that will bring tears to enthusiasts holding out for Nikon. It is overall an amazing camera to use and simply another legendary Nikon in the making. It has taken giant leaps from the D700 but in my opinion a lot of it seems to be towards a slightly different approach. It does feel a little different from what I would call a natural progression from the D700, and thus it does make sense to call it a whole new different product. Until Nikon decides to release a whole new full frame DSLR below the D3/D4 line in direct succession to the D700, the D800 will be the choice of many working professionals including myself for years to come.

Want Nikon D800 36.3 MP CMOS FX-Format Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) Discount?

(There are already many reviews on how this camera compare to the older Nikon D700, it's competitor: Canon 5D Mark III, so I won't reiterate)

About me: Been using SLR for over 20 years... first 10 on film, recent 10 on digital SLR's. I've used Leica, Nikon, Canon SLR's... and I've longed to get the next full-frame (FX) camera after Nikon D700 (without referring it to "D700 replacement"). When the camera was finally announced, it came out like a pair of twins were born. The D800 and D800E are almost identical, and I wasn't sure which baby to choose. If you have the same dilemma, read on...

Many people (myself included) doesn't seemed overly concerned that D800 is $300 cheaper, because many photographers are perfectionists and the hope that D800E offers sharper images makes it really tempting. But after after much research and comparisons, I finally chose D800 (no E). Why??? Here's my rationale:

Eventually, the choice to get D800E instead of D800 hinges on trade-off between

* benefits of greater sharpness, against

* cost or risk of Moire (or unexpected patterns in the pics/video)

Depending on what you shoot:

* portraits, fashion, weddings, architectures, wide range of stuff => Go for D800

* macro, landscape, tripod-mounted shots or those with time to position light/camera/subject => Go for D800E

Moire MAY occur when you shoot repeated patterns, such as:

* fabrics (on clothes)

* glass or windows of buildings

* straight hair of people

Once it happens, it's not easy to remove in photos (despite claims that a few clicks on Adobe Lightroom 4, or Photoshop). It's also more problematic in video, which I'm not sure how it can be corrected.

As such, one camp of people would say they rather have sharper images ALL the time, and risk a small x% of time that they get Moire. That seems fine reason except that to get the sharper images distinguishable between the 800E and the 800, it's ALMOST ALWAYS due to other factors such as:

1. lens (do you have the high quality glass)

2. filter (high quality filter in front of lens?)

3. ISO (if you shoot at high ISO, the noise will eliminate such clarity)

4. f/stop or aperture (depth of field)

5. camera shake (tripod?)

6. how close you examine the photo

To detect the clarity difference between D800 and D800E, according to Nikon, you need to be shooting at 3 stops above max aperture of a great lens (usually f8-f11). Above this range, it negates the benefits of D800E. Furthermore, in order to see the difference, you need to pixel peep, and at the plane of focus.

I typically shoot with wide aperture for the bokeh and rarely are my subjects in the same flat plane

I usually don't look so closely at my photos, so that clarity is good to have but not critical

To detect Moire, you can likely see it with your naked eye if the area is large. It can occur on a person's cloths, or a building or just railing beside your subject.

You can prevent this before you shoot by repositioning the lights, subject or camera. But it's a chore!

You can fix it after you shoot with software. But it requires the shot be on RAW format to be more effective! Also a chore!.

If like me, you don't want to deal with these pre-production and post-production work and just want to enjoy taking great shots of what you see, then I believe D800 is yours to buy. Precious moments are limited and I'd rather spend extra time capturing them than figuring out how to avoid or fix Moire. There are people with patience and care to fix all these, but I'm not one of them... and perhaps by then, another new camera would have been born hopefully not a triplet this time. :)

I've been toying with this new camera and will post additional comments soon...

If this helps you better decide which camera is better for you, let me (and others know) by clicking the "Is this review helpful" below. I'm sure there are other reviewers out there who would give various viewpoint and hopefully this will add a valuable perspective as well.

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Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black)

I spent several weeks reviewing the REBEL XS vs it's many 10 MP adversaries, I even checked it against the ultra zooms as I wanted the convenience of video as well, but too many good things stood out with this camera and so I decided upon it. I bought the rebel XS and after days of dirt testing this camera I've found it a beautiful experience.

Now I'm a professional videographer attached to a tv station in Trinidad & Tobago, my purpose for this camera was the need for a quick sharp still shot camera that would be impressive under low light and still capture impressive portrait shots to be used for my website and for large prints. I didn't want to shell out over a $1000. US for a camera body.

What is tagged by Canon is true: The full auto mode is truly accurate and gives excellent shots always, it makes photography so easy for a beginner or intermediate. The portrait mode isn't blurry, images are clean, nicely toned, excellent in quality for large size prints. The P ( program mode) I like alot at first because this mode sets exposure so nicely I found it addictive. I shot alot of night pics of cars on a freeway, with bright, sharp, lively colours emerging. Night pics at 800 iso had very very very little noise, and I mean I was searching the pics on 15" monitors for reason to complain, but was really impressed.

The auto focus is really quick. Th XS comes with "only" a 7 point auto focus system compared to the XSi 9 point, forgive me when I say there may be no need for another 2 points when the camera focusses so quick and so accurately. I have not gotten a soft image when shot with the auto focus operating.

Now for those point and shoot cams that boast about "face detection"....5 faces...6,7, some even 15. I also have a 10 mp ultra zoom, this simply matters little if not at all, if the focussing ability of the camera is poor or average, and given the "average lens" quality they're made of.

I have learnt clearly that a 10 MP ultra zoom simply cannot compare to a 10 MP D SLR...chalk and cheese.

I also bought the Tamron 70mm 300mm, F4-5.6 telephoto/ macro lens. No vignetting at either end of the lens.

Auto iso is simply magnificent, have not taken a shot where the camera over estimated or underestimated the iso levels.

The Manual mode of this camera is the most impressive for me. The rebel XS via various magazine testing has come up faster than it's other 10 MP rivals when it comes to fps shooting, and burst images. It really does shoot 3 fps consistently, it shoots 2.3 fps in low light, worst case is over 1 fps all at 10 MP quality.

I haven't used a lower quality since, given I bought a Transcend 8GB SDHC card storage is not an issue.

Most of my shooting has been at night, for the little done in daylight, it has been amazing. Colours are very bright, depth of field very very nice. Macros works well. Image optimizer simply shocked life out of me. I was in a shaded area and without flash it really improves the subject without over blowing the background, stuff that is almost impossible on point and shoot cams.

Stuff I disagree with from the "reviews" : 1"The camera feels cheaply built"....simply wrong, nothing is shabby, buttons are actually easy to press, doesn't have cheap clicks to them, the lens mount has a secure feel to it, and a proper snap when it is set. Battery compartment is certainly secure. Your finger must intricately open the door for entry, won't be an accident issue. Rubber door at a.v. ports snap in well. Rubber grip is firm enough, smooth enough to not irritate your hands.

2" XS is "overpriced" compared to the XSi.....Xsi shoots slower than the XS, XSi picture quality is equal to the XS even though the XSi is 12 MP. The XSi may be the 3" LCD and a few other upgrades, but these upgrades don't add up when the picture is taken and the quality of both cameras match alike. I may have chosen the XSI if I wanted to spend the extra $150. u.s but for the lesser price, I'm yet to regret.

3"The XS "only has a 2.5" LCD compared to a couple of it's rivals having 3" LCD's". I can see every thing clearly with this screen, even with Histograms, and grids onscreen. If LCD's get much bigger then canon may need to install a tv tuner as well....the 2.5" is more than sufficient.

4"The XS doesn't have SPOT METERING compared to the XSi, so this is a big issue"haven't encountered a reason to complain yet, after 500 night shots and 200 day shots.

THE DOWN SIDE: the EOS software for uploading the photos to computer, and remote controlling the cam via computer is AWFUL. It's a task to upload, as it is beach balling when you hit "upload". Digital professional software is non responsive. I have not been able to use the software past the install point. Mac version here.

Better use i-photo and photoshop.

I highly rate this camera, and as a videographer who's accustomed to t.v. broadcast quality the REBEL XS is worth it, and since canon is so intent on pushing the rebel XSi they have significantly lowered the price on the XS.....I recommend people buy the XS and get a good lens with the discount earned. The trick is in the lens and the user, and lesser the camera.

I want to save you the time and uncertainty in choosing the best affordable DSLR. For those considering the Canon EOS Rebel XS, the Olympus E-510 or the Nikon D40 / D40x / D60, I believe the Canon XS is the best choice. Also, at the price difference between the XS and the SXi ($150-200 as of December '08), the XS is an excellent alternative--both take exactly the same high quality pictures, save the 2MP difference, which is negligible at the end. Please note that the XS's new lens kit comes with the better quality EFS 18-55 Image Stabilization lens (they are better engineered); and that Canon is offering nowadays generous rebates on telephoto lenses when coupled with the purchase of the XS (I bought mine with the entry-level Canon EF 75-300mm III lens with a generous instant Canon rebate. Don't buy from anybody different from B&H Photo, directly from Amazon, Adorama, Buydig/Beach Camera; stay away from Broadway Photo and TriState).

Canons are popular for the excellent image processing. Nikons for their Nikor lenses. Olympus, some say, for the color of some of the pictures they take.

The Olympus E-510 has important flaws, e.g., the average performance in high ISO speeds and highlight blowing. Also, its inconsistency with good results is worth noting.

The Nikon D40 lacks important features, e.g., image stabilization in their kit lens. The D60 is lacking the high picture quality ratings of the Canon XS. Both Nikons are nice looking, which is a selling factor I usually consider; but picture quality should be your top criterion for the long run.

Don't go through the extensive research I have already done (months, and intense debating). The Canon XS is a winner (specially with the new IS lens kit), even more with its current price (Dec. '08: $480). It is feature rich (you can even add 3 of your preferred defined Picture Style modes), good/professional looking (black body), even the sound of the shooter is nicer than the others. Bottom line: Excellent picture quality, high ISO/low light remarkable performance, and relevant features and space for customization make the Canon XS a winner for months and even years to come.

Buy Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black) Now

This review is geared toward complete newbies (such as myself) who are coming from the point-and-shoot world.

I purchased this camera due to a budget constraint and after reading numerous reviews. For what you features you get, you simply cannot beat the price for an entry level DSLR camera. You may have looked at the XSI (as I have) and have been tempted to put forth the extra $100 or so to get that one. If you get down to the nitty gritty between the specs of the XS and XSI, you'll find that they are very minimally different, and more importantly, those "extra" features will have no bearing on you as a DSLR newbie.

This XS (1000D) model is oft overlooked because so many are praising its "bigger brother" the XSI. But take a look at a side-by-side comparison and you'll notice not much has been scaled back for this XS. Save that extra money for better glass. I would even be willing to speculate that a future firmware release will address some of these scaled-back features.

PROS

-Currently the best bang for buck you're going to find (at this time).

-Canon didn't scale back very much from the XSI

-Some report that the lower MP (10 vs XSI's 12) gives better image quality because of the sensor (DigicIII).

-Excellent image quality even with the supplied kit lens.

-Easy to use (with some research-effort on your part)

-Canon compatibility -nuff said.

CONS

-Not crazy about the build materials (some sort of plastic). When I purchase things, I plan on owning them for a very long time, regardless of how "outdated" it may become a few years down the road.

-Some button placements for me seem counter-intuitive, but remember, I'm only a newbie.

-Has crop sensor like all of the rebels.

-Live View usefulness is questionable.

In short: If you're coming from P&S, you will not be disappointed with this purchase. It will meet or exceed your expectations of photo quality and features.

Read Best Reviews of Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black) Here

**Note 2/18/2011 After 2.5 years, the Rebel XS is soon-to-be obsolete with the announcement of the Rebel T3 in early 2011. The T3 presents significant improvements over the XS, with higher ISO settings and better high-ISO image quality, video capability, a nicer LCD, and a marginally higher frame rate. Unfortunately Canon continues to cheapen the "feel" of the camera with smoother plastics and no rubber grip. I think the T3 will not have the same appeal or bang-for-your-buck as the XS did in its day, given the competition. If you insist on going Canon I recommend stepping up to the T3i, which is packed with nearly all the features of the larger 60D. Otherwise check out the Nikon D3100 or Pentax K-r.

**Revised 18 Apr 2009**

(4.5/5 stars)

This year I decided to finally get a digital SLR. The market is filled with excellent choices and early January saw a plunge in prices that has since receded, so I feel like I picked a good time to buy. The downside of having so many options, though, was trying to decide which one was right for me. Not being too familiar with dSLRs, I read lots of reviews and learned the terminology, and after a couple weeks finally decided on the Canon Rebel XS.

Based on what I was willing to pay (around $650 or less), I considered three other cameras before buying this one: The Canon Rebel XSi, the Nikon D60, and the Pentax K200D. I think Nikon has excellent offerings at the "enthusiast/semi pro" level (D80/D90 and D300, respectively) that are arguably superior to Canon's lineup, but I was disappointed by the D60 in general, mostly due to the lack of autofocus compatibility with older lenses. The main attraction of the Pentax is the high build quality with weather sealing, but it also sports a decent quality kit lens, a large viewfinder, and internal image stabilization. What concerned me about the K200D was the image quality, especially with JPEGs, as reported in a number of pro reviews. As is the case with many entering the dSLR world, image quality was my #1 consideration. Finally, live view (the ability to compose with the rear LCD) is a tool I have found to be quite useful in certain situations and it is notably lacking on the Nikon and Pentax models that I considered.

So, left with the Canons, I considered what I might get with the XSi for the nearly $200 extra. As a beginner I simply wasn't convinced that the additional features on the XSi were worth the extra cash, the image quality the two cameras being basically equal. So I sprang for the XS, got the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens with the savings, and still had some cash left in my pocket. Generally I've been quite happy with my decision. There is a lot of talk about how camera makers "intentionally cripple" their entry-level models, but you're unlikely to notice this if it's your first dSLR. If you pay more for the next step up, you're arguably paying a premium for new technology that you won't even notice or appreciate that much, and will either be commonplace or obsolete in just a couple years. If I had spent more I think I would have skipped the XSi and gone for the 40D, which sports a better build and a nicer kit lens, the Pentax K20D, or perhaps the Nikon D80 or D90. My plan is to stick with the XS for a few years until Canon gives me a compelling reason to upgrade.

So anyway, what is my impression of the Rebel XS after 4 months of solid use? Generally, quite good, but here are my thoughts:

The good:

Image Quality. Period. This is the Canon trademark. The basic JPEG modes are great when you don't want to bother with the creative stuff. The level of sharpness and the color rendition are quite good for my tastes, and can be easily adjusted. One thing I have noticed is that the default sharpening is fairly high and can easily lead to artefacts when rendering fine details. I would recommend turning down the sharpness on all the picture styles to 2 or 3 to avoid this.

Performance at High ISO. Many of my favorite photos have been taken in low light situations and I've decided there's one thing everyone looking at dSLRs should consider carefully: image quality at high ISO speeds. Using higher ISO speeds is extremely useful when trying to get sharp pictures in low light situations (without using a flash). Simply put, in the entry level market Canon outperforms the competition. I've taken a number of pictures at ISO 1600 that look great, especially with the in-camera noise reduction turned on. I made an 8 x 10 in. print of one of these photos, and the noise was almost imperceptible. (Update: I only wish I could shoot ISO 3200, which is available with some of the newer models coming out.)

Ease of Use. The camera puts all the essential controls at your fingertips. Adjusting ISO, exposure compensation, metering mode, and white balance, not to mention picture styles and autofocus mode, are all quick and intuitive operations with this camera. The only thing that takes a little more time is setting custom white balance, which I seem to do a lot under incandescent light. Also, after activating live view in the menu system, it can be turned on or off at the press of a button.

The camera is small, light, and physically attractive. With my 50mm lens attached, the camera is remarkably compact and very lightweight. Also, having dealt with the lag of compact digitals for years, the responsiveness of this camera is especially noticeable.

Kit lens. While the 18-55mm IS lens that ships with the camera leaves something to be desired in terms of build quality (and manual operation), the optical quality actually surprised me. I wish it gave a little more reach on the telephoto end, but in general it does a good job. In fact, the main reason I'm not getting the $500 EF-S 17-85mm is that the 18-55 performs better on the wide end.

Software. The image editing and organizing programs that come with the camera are not the most refined, but they are fairly powerful, and likely adequate for those who don't want to part with another $200 or more for an image editing program. Also, you can control the camera remotely from your computer with live view, which is cool, if not extremely useful. As far as I know, Canon is the most generous company in terms of what they offer in their packaged software.

A few complaints:

Build/Grip: One of the big reasons I didn't get the XSi was because it offered no improvement in the way of build quality or ergonomics (besides the marginally better grip material). The downside of this camera's low weight is the plastic construction. Especially compared to a Pentax (which is also plastic but has a metal frame and usually weather sealing), there's a noticeable difference in the way it feels in your hands. There are advantages to each approach, but some will prefer a more solid (and heavy) construction. Also, some reviewers complain about the grip. I have relatively long fingers, and while I agree that it is a little cramped and awkward compared to a Pentax, for example, it's a secure grip and while taking pictures I've never found it to be uncomfortable. I should say that I spent some time comparing the D60 grip to this one, and ultimately preferred the XS. While the build and grip are adequate, they do detract somewhat from the overall photographic experience. I would give more weight to these factors if I were to buy again.

-Lenses: This is somewhat of a mixed bag. Generally speaking, the deal with Canon is that if you have deep pockets you'll be hard pressed to find a more comprehensive set of high quality professional lenses. As a hobbyist, however, I shy away from spending $1000+ on a lens, so my options are more limited. There are some very good options: the EF-S 10-22mm, EF-S 60mm, EF 50mm f/1.4, EF 85mm f/1.8, and EF 100mm f/2.8 all come to mind. But other bases aren't as well covered: a made-for-digital "standard" prime lens for example, or a quality upgrade to the kit lens (the 17-85mm gets pretty lukewarm reviews). Ideally you should give some thought to the lenses you think you might purchase, and survey what each company offers. I tend to think that Canon, Nikon, Olympus and Pentax all have good options, but their strengths and weaknesses are different.

The viewfinder is fairly small. When dealing with a shallow depth of field in low light and I want to get the focus just right, I often switch to live view to zoom in and focus manually (This is actually very handy). The only basis I have for comparison is my ancient Minolta film SLR that sports a much bigger viewfinder. That said, when I compared the XS and XSi, I didn't really notice the difference between the two. APS-C cameras have smaller viewfinders that 35mm/full frame cameras in general, but they vary enough that it is worth giving it due consideration as you compare cameras.

Metering: This is a fairly minor quibble, but I find that the metering overexposes fairly frequently, especially for high contrast scenes (outdoors). I have found that I get better results dialing in -1/3 to -2/3 stops of exposure compensation in these situations.

Slow continuous shooting rate. If you're shooting action (sports, moving animals, etc.) in RAW you'll want to look elsewhere. The JPEG rate (3 fps) is comparable to competitors and has the advantage of being able to shoot until the card is full. In RAW, however, you'll find that the 1.5 fps (for 5 frames) is pretty slow. I don't generally shoot action so this was not an important consideration for me. (Update: After 4 months of pretty heavy shooting, I still have not found a need for a higher frame rate.)

Overall: Considering the price of the Rebel XS and the overall quality of the package (image quality and feature set), I'm convinced it gives you the most bang for your buck of cameras below $500. This camera is capable of taking very nice photographs, and I find the control layout to be very intuitive. The only things that leave me feeling somewhat unsatisfied are (1) the relatively "cheap" or plastic feel of the camera (2) the grip, which is satisfactory but does not fit the shape of my hand like other cameras, and (3) the lens lineup. I recommend spending some time holding the camera (and others) and researching lenses to make sure the XS will meet your needs. Having said that, the image quality of this camera is excellent, and I am most satisfied by its low-light performance. Furthermore, if you think you'll upgrade in the next several years, I have a feeling Canon will be forced to compete aggressively with Nikon in the enthusiast range, so you can be confident you'll have some good options down the road. (Update: I have to say that the XS is a camera that has grown on me. Despite my quibbles, in everyday use there is very little to dislike about this camera and it will take something very significant for me to switch brands.)

Other options to consider:

Olympus

The Olympus Evolt E420 10MP Digital SLR Camera with 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 Zuiko Lens provides an interesting and very cost-effective choice, particularly for those who value small size. To take full advantage of the minute camera, you'll want to consider getting the tiny 25mm pancake lens in addition to the standard zoom. The E-420 delivers on features too, with live view and a good dust control system. The downsides? First, there is no in-body image stabilization, unlike its bigger brother, the E-520 (also a good option). Also, lens selection is limited due to the unique sensor size. That said, the lenses are designed specifically for "four thirds" sensors as opposed to "full frame", and thus have more appropriate focal lengths. More importantly, several of the Olympus Zuiko lenses get rave reviews for their optical quality. A final downside is that the "four thirds" image quality, in particular dynamic range and high ISO, isn't quite on par with Canon or Nikon. However, I suspect that for many people it will be more than good enough.

The recently announced Olympus Evolt E620 12.3MP Live MOS Digital SLR Camera with Image Stabilization and 2.7 inch Swivel LCD w/ 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 Zuiko Lens crams most of the features of the semi-pro E-30 into a body closer to the size of a E-420. If you have a bigger budget, check this one out, it looks like an excellent camera.

Pentax

For those who want a more upscale dSLR experience in the entry-level market segment, I would recommend the Pentax K200D 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with Shake Reduction 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 Lens. You get a quality build, weatherproofing, a nice viewfinder, and arguably the best built kit lens there is (complete with a nice lens hood!). Make sure you can live with the image quality if you plan on shooting JPEG and keep in mind there's no live view, but if you read owner reviews you'll find very few unhappy customers.

For a bit more you can bag yourself the Pentax K20D 14.6MP Digital SLR Camera with Shake Reduction and 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AL II Lens. This camera could be categorized more as "semi-pro" or "enthusiast", and is best for those eager to take greater manual control of their camera. The new sensor resolves the image quality issues of the K200D and has greater resolution. It has live view, but the implementation is apparently pretty crude. All in all, it sounds like this is a very good deal at current pricing and again, you'll find very few unhappy users.

Nikon

The Nikon D90 DX 12.3MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S VR DX Nikkor Zoom Lens is an update to the D80 that by all accounts equals or exceeds its Canon rivals on image quality and delivers a very nice feature set including HD video. For this, though, you'll need to pay a pretty penny (around $1100). And at that price, you'll want to give full consideration to the well-built Canon EOS 40D 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens, or its more expensive sibling, the Canon EOS 50D 15.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens.

The recently announced Nikon D5000 12.3 MP DX Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Lens and 2.7-inch Vari-angle LCD falls into the same price range as the D80, and is something of a blend between the D60 and the D90 in terms of the design. Most of the features, however, have been passed down from the D90. It's billed more as an upper entry-level camera (like the Canon T1i and the Olympus E-620), and as such lacks a few of the more serious features of the d90 like the top LCD, the nice large pentaprism viewfinder, and wireless flash control, but most of the bells and whistles are there. Like the d60 there is no autofocus with non AF-S lenses, though this is becoming less of an issue since the release of the AF-S 35mm f/1.8 and the AF-S 50mm f/1.4. At the price it's being offered at the moment I would still very much prefer the D90, but this is a decent option nonetheless.

The Nikon D3000 10MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens was also announced recently and appears to be a refresh of the D60 built around the same sensor with an upgraded autofocus system and a few new bells and whistles. No video or live view, though, due to the older CCD-type sensor. Again, my personal feeling is that if you buy Nikon the D90 is currently the best deal for "enthusiasts" who plan to get into the nuts and bolts of photography. If you only plan to shoot very casually and can still find a D40, that camera also represents a great value.

Want Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black) Discount?

"I should have spent the extra hundred and gotten the XSi" should have been the actual title to this review. My dissatisfaction revolves around the XS' focusing challenges. The camera itself is great image quality is good, the sensor works fine -the uptick in image quality between the smaller sensor on a point n shoot is (to me) very noticeable -but the XS, with its 7-point focusing system has problems, especially in low light.

I understand the XSi's 9-point system is more accurate, and face it, most of us shoot in less-than-ideal lighting conditions, and we don't want to shell out $300 for good flash that won't turn our subjects into wan, demon-eyed ghosts (I'd rather spend the money on a good prime lense) so a good-auto focus system is a must. My wife has a Panasonic FZ28 with a Leica lense, and its autofocus capabilities are far superior. XS great camera, but the autofocus issues are very disappointing. If I could do it over, I'd get the XSi or the Nikon D60.

Moultrie I35 Game Spy 4 Megapixel Digital Infrared Game Camera (Camo)

I had this camera for about 13 months and thousands of pictures. Sadly, some low-life stole it. The only drawbacks that I have found are that the night pics tend to be a little blurry and the trigger time is a little slow. I have several pictures of the back end of a deer walking by.

This guy who rates this camera one star has pasted his same review onto 12 different cameras so it is totally bogus.

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This takes good photos and video. It is not as easy to set up as I had hoped. The camera settings are accessed in the date set up field.

The area of capture and turn on are poor. all they have is a LED that you see get brighter as you walk across, this is static with no internal feed back! You really have no idea what the active field range is to turn the camera ON.

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My husband ordered this to use in our business, and it gives great clear pictures that come in really handy in our business.

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In theory this works as follows: i) you buy this camera or another camera compatible with their "game management system" ($150-450), ii) you buy a separate cellular module ($180-200), iii) you buy a subscription to their on line service ($360-$1200/year), iv) you buy an activation (an additional $29 fee mentioned only in some very small print in a very obscure place on their web site), v) you set it up so that you get an email when the camera triggers and then you can see your photos on-line almost in real-time. In theory, you also have the option between a pay-as-you go plan (min $40/month) and an annual plan (min $360/year).

In practice, you buy all of the above (bare minimum about $400), then the activation fails. None of the usual excuses hold: the batteries are new and fully charged for both camera and cellular modem, the signal at location is great (I was checking their web site on my iPhone on 3G at maximum signal strength), the camera is on, the wire is plugged in, etc. Unfortunately, Moultrie has no customer support worth mentioning for this system. For the game management, there is separate line which is not toll-free. First I had to wait about 30 minutes on their regular customer support line, then I had to give the person all my details for another 15 minutes and then and only then, he told me that I have to call another line, dedicated to the Game Management System. On that line, you have the privilege to leave a message but you are warned by the "welcome" message not to dare leave more than a single message. Then you wait and nothing happens. Nobody calls you back. Nobody follows up. You go on "your account" from time to time just to see that the camera is "being activated". You call over and over the game management system line but you never find any human being on.

Imagine buying a new cell phone, activation, contract and all and then having the phone not working for days and no customer support help.

In practice, the choice between the pay-as-you go and the annual subscription also does not seem to exist. The type of plan appears to be determined by the cellular modem you buy. If you the device has a P at the end in the model number, you are locked into the pay-as-you go (which is about 33% more expensive per month). If your device does not have the P, you are destined to have an annual plan. If you don't know this and you buy the wrong device, too bad Mr. Customer.

The camera itself is much lower resolution than a comparably priced Stealth Cam for instance (currently about 8Mega pixels for $120 for Stealth Cam Unit vs. 4 Mega pixels for $150 for the Moultrie I 35). On the Moultrie I35, the weatherproof case is made of plastic, the locks are also plastic and may not last long. There is a rubber seal around the perimeter of the box but that appears to be very flimsy and will also probably not last very long. The Stealth Cam Unit case appears to be much more durable, the locks are metal, the rubber seal is much thicker and mounted in a recessed groove, and overall has a more durable appearance. The quality of the pictures and video on the Stealth Unit is very good. It also appears to trigger well for now but I only had the camera for 3 weeks so it's early to draw conclusions. The Moultrie is yet to take a photo and upload it. The flexibility of the Stealth Camera is also much higher. More choices for video, resolutions, trigger intervals, number of pictures taken, duration of video, etc. If it were not for the remote access capability the Stealth Cam would be the hands down winner. Unfortunately, this capability is yet to be experienced on the Moultrie I 35.

I will update this. I am very curious how many days of my subscription are going to be wasted before I can get the I 35 camera to work.

First update (deployment date + 2 days): cellular link still dead and no sound in video.

The cellular link still does not work, the same "camera is being activated" message on their web site. Checked in the field, the batteries on the cellular modem are completely dead in less than 48 h after deployment (the batteries were new and fully charged, 2000mAh capacity). The quality of the pictures taken is very good. However, the video does not have sound. I'm not sure this is a defect or by design. If it's by design, it's a very serious limitation. On the StealthCam I got 60 seconds of dialogue between two poachers who were smart enough to try stay outside the angle of view but triggered it anyway.

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Dell DisplayPort (Display Port) to HDMI Video Adapter, Connect or Cable - TK041 / 0TK041

This product worked fine on my dell laptop. Happy with the product and simple to use no setting needed to be updated. Would buy again if I ever needed it or someone ask me I will Recommand this product

Cable worked great sending both high quality video and audio from my Dell E6400 laptop to a Sony flatscreen TV. Didn't have to change any setting to make it work, just plugged the cable in the laptop Display port, plugged the HDMI end into the TV and whoola perfect audio and video. Very happy with purchase.

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I bought this adapter to connect my laptop docking station to my TV at home.

I purchased this product having trying a less expensive Displayport to HDMI cable that ended up being faulty.

It was a little bit more than what I had wanted to spend (taking into account you need another HDMI cable as well), but it works. Video and audio come through well. The only thing I am not sure about is that the image is extending beyond the TV's boarder. It is cutting off the length of about half of the task bar from all sides. I'm not sure if this is due to resolution settings or not. I'm still working on that.

I found this adapter on a few other websites for less, but Amazon was the only one that would state that it was a new unit. With my previous experience with a faulty cable I knew there was a chance that I would need to return it, and Amazon's return system is the best I have worked with.

It shipped quickly, and it works. I'm very satisfied with it.

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It allows me to display my pc on our big screen. Makes it a very nice huge monitor. Working from home is easy.

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I usually use this cable adapter to run movies from my Dell laptops priority display port to any TV that has an HDMI port. High quality handy little doo-dad, Was out of state as a guest at a meeting and the AV equipment was missing some cables so they couldnt hook up as required. Pulled this little cable out of my bag and found a long HDMI cable from their TV in their break room and saved the day.

Epson PowerLite 83+ Business Projector (XGA Resolution 1024x768) (V11H303020)

I bought this to use in my classroom and think it is great! The sound is clear and as loud as I need for all of my students to hear content being viewed. The price was very reasonable and I have not had any issues with how the equipment works. It's a great addition to the classroom. The images are clear, the remote is a nice feature and it's quite easy to use.

Its a good gift, i bought one and i loved it 2 watch movies! just buy speakers and paint you room black and its the theathers room! yay

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I have been thrilled with the quality of the picture and the ease of use on this machine. I like that it has a built in speaker that really produces great sound. Very happy with my purchase.

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This projector is very good, the picture quality is amazing and I recommend can actually see the video to 80 inches

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Nikon Coolpix AW110 Shock & Waterproof GPS Wi-Fi Digital Camera (Blue) with 32GB Card + Battery

This small camera is unbelievable!!! Numerous features not expected in such a small format. All of the pictures are high quality and crystal clear. The movie feature was such a big surprise. As a bundle kit, just can't beat the price.

I bought this camera for snorkeling for a vacation in Hawaii. On the second snorkeling spot off the boat, the lens fogged up and the back screen went blank. The fogging went away but the back screen is gone. It will still take pictures but you can't tell what your pointing at. I sent an email to Nikon to see if there is a quick fix and they told me I need to ship it to them at my expense for evaluation. The email says if the camera malfunctioned because of water or sand getting in, it voids the warranty. WTF.....

When i get back to the mainland, ship it, and get a response I'll update the post. This is my first underwater camera so I can't compare it to anything. Probably should have gone with a "go hero". They were really popular within the snorkeling group.

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Avoid this camera if you are going to use it underwater. It leaks water! I bought it for a travel to Seychelles, after a few days of use, the screen switched off for ever! I had to ship to NY from Spain, and after 3 months, my brother will come with it back for test again... I haver read a lot of reviews after my purchase, and a lot, a lot!, have registered the same failure!

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I needed a point and shoot that can be used under water for a summer trip something to take with me without lugging my DSL around. Looked on various websites and review boards then decided on the Coolpix AW110. Figured it would suit my needs based on what I'm looking for in a. I've tried it out indoors with dim lighting and was taken by surprise by the brightness of the photos without loss of sharpness. Also took pictures outdoor in the sun and it still had great results. I have not tried underwater yet but will do at an upcoming pool party. I'm looking forward to the GPS and WiFi option on my upcoming summer trip to the caribbean.

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All of the components arrived perfectly wrapped, and exactly as described. My niece will thoroughly enjoy this gift with all of its accessories.