Lorex LW2001 Digital Wireless Portable Color LCD Surveillance System (White)

Preface: This is my first ever wireless camera, which I am using as a baby monitor, one of the uses advertised on the product packaging.

Color reproduction is extremely poor, even in a well lit room. I do not expect the video to be as vivid or natural as the photos shown on the product packaging, but the color is very washed out, noticeably worse than any webcam that I have ever seen under similar lighting conditions.

Placing the monitor unit anywhere near (i.e., within 3 feet of) my notebook computer completely disrupts the 802.11g wireless network transmission, making wireless networking impossible.

Thus, although this product works adequately as a security camera, it is totally unsuitable for use as a baby monitor.

Ignore the previous review, as its comment has no relevance for use as a baby monitor. Yes, the color quality isnt great, but you dont need to see your baby in high def vivid colors, just need to see your baby clearly, day or night, and it does that great. The range is great. The only flaw is the noise sensitivity alarm. The handheld receiver doesnt turn on from sound until your baby is virtually screaming. The sensitivity can be adjusted, but it doesnt help much. It does turn on however, so it is still usefull.

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The video works well in both color and black and white, but the device emits a high-pitched whine that drives my husband and I crazy! Also, when we run the fan in the baby's room, the camera doesn't pick up the baby's noises until he's being loud enough that we could hear him without the monitor! So, overall, I would recommend a different model, like Summer Infant.

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I used this monitor last night and will be returning it tomorrow. The sound quality was terrible. It cut in and out. The picture during the day was just fine but was a little fuzzy at night. I would keep looking around if your using this to monitor a baby and want to hear them.

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The product is ok. Image quality and sound are good for it purpose. In my case the only cont. is that the display has turned gray in several occasion without any explication, being at the same room as the camera. I have turned off, and wait a couple of minuets an when I turned back on, then everything works fine. I have tried to find why it doing this, and I haven't found anything yet.

The rest is good.

Pentax Optio W20 7MP Waterproof Digital Camera with 3x Optical Zoom

This is my second Optio (due to an unfortunate accident snorkling in Hawaii) and I can't believe the pictures and adaptability of this camera. The W20 has more features than the W10 I had previously, and this takes even better pictures. I can pick a mode and take great pictures and video, either on land or under water. My only recommendation is to get the silicone cover that is available if you are going to use it underwater. It will keep your fingers from manipulating the lock mechanism that opens the waterproof door to the battery and memory card. The camera is a great size for those of us with larger hands that have a hard time holding the new smaller cameras, and it is an added benefit that the lens never protrudes from the camera body. All of the zoom and focus is internal in the camera. Makes it really easy to slip into a pocket. I liked this style of camera so much I went and bought another one. Even after I compared it to the Olympus and Casio.

I bought this for snorkeling excursions. I have three 7 MP cameras and was tired of using disposable underwater cameras. I used this camera for the first time while on a cruise a week ago. I also took my Sony Cyber-shot 7.2 MP as a back up.

Land Photos: I was very impressed with the quality and the great zoom feature. Easy to use menu and buttons. Pictures were actually better then my Sony ones due to the better zoom.

Underwater: I used it three times during the week under water. I only kept it under for the 30 minutes as stated in the manual for fear of damage. At first it was very hard to see the screen with a mask on, but I finally found the trick is to keep the shutter button pushed 1/2 way so the screen stays on all the time. Buttons very easy to use underwater. Just set it to underwater mode before you go in.

My first set of photos were of nothing, but after a few minutes of practice (on my fin) I got great shots of many fish at different depths. Works best in high light, shallow waters, but in the darker Atlantic at about 20 feet, I also got some nice shots.

Hint: Try and stay above the rocks/coral and in the best available light to get the best photos.

I love this camera and would highly recommend it and did to all who asked.

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I bought this camera over a year ago before deploying to Iraq. I really put it to the test. It managed to survive intense heat, rain, mud, dust storms, and being constantly throw to the ground with me during combat. I carried it with me for over a year and it still takes great pictures.

I haven't used it a great deal underwater although I did test it out in the Lake a couple months ago. It did well.

As far as features I'm not a great expert in that area. It does have an incredible zoom (compared to my last camera-Sony).

I would recommend this to anyone needing a cameara for an "adventure."

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I've had this camera about a month now and am extremely pleased with it. I've taken it into numerous caves, where dripping water and muddy conditions are common, and it has survived being dragged around. Moreover, it has taken fantastic closeups of tiny features. I am amazed at how good the macro feature is, especially when there is virtually no light.

The camera also fared well being dunked in muddy pools on a canyoneering trip. It was so nice to be able to keep taking photos and not worry at all.

Photos from a distance look okay, nothing too spectacular, but the camera exceeds in doing super for what I bought it for: going into wet and dirty places and not worrying about it.

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I own several cameras, and I use each for different kinds of shooting. For snapshot stuff like vacations or parties where you don't want to hassle with a big camera, and are willing to sacrifice some quality, a tiny camera like this is great. Add in the waterproof feature and the great quality videos it shoots, and this thing rocks! I use it for sailing and skiing and all kinds of outdoor activities, and not having to worry about sand and dust and water is the greatest. It's not a 'dumbed-down' camera however. There are lots of sophisticated features that I'd love to see on my expensive cameras, like a detailed histogram that shows blown out and zero-level areas in real time. You can also just put it in "green mode" and point and shoot with reliably good results. The flash chooses pleasing filled exposures, too.

The white balance could use some fine tuning, the dynamic range is not as good as I would like for some outdoor situations, and the microphone gives fairly bad sound quality, but I highly recommend the overall package.

Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH3K 16.05 MP Digital Single Lens Mirrorless Camera with 3-Inch OLED - Body Onl

Professional image quality testing has been done, and the verdict is in. This camera beats the Olympus OM-D EM-5... just barely. Image quality off both camera sensors is fantastic and nearly identical, but the GH3 edges out the EM-5 by just a little bit of dynamic range. The EM-5 is a little cheaper, though. Right now, the GH3 is fairly expensive, but what you pay for is the best camera in this format money can buy, and I'm not just talking about image quality.

Other reviews cover a lot of things about image quality and technical specifications, far more in depth than I'll go here. What I want to talk about is handling, video, and the general advantages of the Micro Four Thirds format.

Chances are, if you are considering the GH3 at all, you fall under one of three categories. You are either a serious enthusiast, a professional photographer, or you want to make movies. This is probably not going to be your very first system camera, and it's definitely not a point-and-shoot camera for amateurs. That's not to say the GH3 is overly complicated or unapproachable if you're new to photography, but I should think a cheaper camera would fit your needs fine.

The GH3 is a very special camera, with lots to love for those who love cameras. If you're a serious enthusiast, you should consider the EM-5 as well as the GH3. There are pros and cons for both cameras. I'll let you go read up on the EM-5 on your own, but for the GH3, it has a lot in its favor. Top of the list is handling. The GH3 is the largest camera in the format, this is true, but what you gain in bulk and weight, you also gain in ergonomics. There are lots and lots of physical buttons, five of them customizable, and nearly all of them usable one-handed without any awkwardness. The software is fantastic, too, giving you additional programable buttons on the touch screen, as well as Panasonic's fully configurable Quick Menu. There are tons and tons of options to set to get your camera working just the way you want it to. Everything is very well laid out and fairly intuitive. The dials and control wheels feel solid and work great. Even the largest of lenses balance very well on the GH3, thanks to its weight and best-in-format grip. Don't let its size fool you though, it's only a little heavier than the EM-5. Along with that size comes a very large battery. Technical specs I think are conservative on the lifespan of a charge, too. This is the best camera battery I've ever encountered, letting me shoot far longer than I am used to. All-in-all, the GH3 fits wonderfully in the hand, is very easy to shoot with, and gives you a huge amount of control. If you're an enthusiast photographer or serious prosumer, the GH3 will not disappoint. As an enthusiast, though, you've got plenty of options in the format and you should look carefully at many other models that may be cheaper but still quite satisfying.

If you are a professional, I think you'll appreciate much of the same things enthusiasts do, like what I mentioned above. But there's more in this camera that seems intended just for you. The Wi-Fi "Lumix Link" will let you upload images directly from the camera as you shoot, letting your customers see immediately what you're doing. You can also use it to trigger the shutter remotely or change settings. If wireless isn't your thing, there's an HDMI port and AV port. I have to believe the fully articulated touch screen will let you make difficult shots easy, such as doing macro on a product at a weird angle. The DSLR-type body will be very familiar to you, as well, though this is a mirrorless camera which means it's a much lighter camera than you're probably used to (more on this later). If you work with video at all for hybrid products, the live electronic viewfinder during movie recording will be a welcome change from optical viewfinders. As I mentioned before, the battery is quite large, but if you need more juice and don't want to switch batteries, there's a (sold-seperately) battery grip that will improve handling with portrait shots and give you even more endurance on a shoot. You will probably get some use out of the flash synchro socket and/or hot shoe. The buffer seems to be quite huge, and with a fast card shooting RAW in burst mode, it's very difficult to slow the camera down. There aren't more than a handful of weatherproof lenses for Micro Four Thirds so far, but if you have any the GH3 is weatherproof and will give you a seal to protect your system while you're shooting in wet environments. The camera is built with high quality, solid materials. All-in-all, the GH3 is perhaps the first Micro Four Thirds camera aimed squarely at the professional market, whether or not you've been tempted by the format before. It gives you enormous control, but gets out of your way when you're working. If you are a professional photographer, you are sure to appreciate the design considerations Panasonic made to make this a camera you can get serious work done with.

If you are a videographer, why are you even reading this review? There is simply no better camera for the movie-maker in this price range, and the video quality you'll get off of this camera will surpass hybrid or video-only cameras that cost considerably more. That said, video was one of my primary reasons for getting this camera, so I'll give you the most important details. Of all the codecs you're most likely to use, the six big ones are 1080p 24fps 50Mbps, 1080p 30fps 50Mbps, 1080p 60fps 50Mbps, 1080p 24fps 72Mbps (ALL-INTRA), 1080p 30fps 72Mbps (ALL-INTRA), or 720p 60fps 72Mbps (ALL-INTRA). You have a full-sized 3.5mm (1/8") microphone port, no need for an adapter like with the GH2, and a 3.5mm (1/8") headphone port for sound out while shooting. Of course, the GH3 has a stereo mic build-in. You can set mic levels right on the camera. There's all kinds of options for time code. As a videographer, you may still want to consider the GH2. Video quality is better on the GH3 in testing, even compared to the hacked GH2, but the GH2 is considerably cheaper and the difference in quality may not be enough. If you're a small budget indie filmmaker, choose carefully. All-in-all, if you can afford one, the GH3 out of the box is truly a fantastic video camera and competes at a much higher level for the price. It really puts other cameras to shame, even dedicated video cameras. If you are a videographer, or even a professional filmmaker, this camera has pretty much everything you want.

Which brings me to an important point. This is a hybrid camera, not merely an excellent still camera. For the price of one professional-quality camera, you're really getting two. If you happen to like taking still pictures AND video, the GH3 offers tremendous value. If you're creating hybrid products as a professional, there's really no other single camera that can do as well as this. If you're a hobbyist with interest in both pictures and video, this can save you a lot of money. The GH2 was good, this is better. Micro Four Thirds has finally arrived at the next level, not for stills-only, but for stills and video. If the EM-5 made Micro Four Thirds a serious format for still photography, the GH3 ups the ante and makes the format a viable platform for a whole new market.

Micro Four Thirds is the only truly mature mirrorless camera system. There are other mirrorless systems, to be sure, but Micro Four Thirds has a huge selection of first-party and third-party lenses, low end and high end, covering a huge range of focal lengths and apertures. The diversity of bodies from Panasonic and Olympus means there's probably a good camera for you no matter who you are. When you buy a system camera, it's reassuring to know that you're making a good investment. Micro Four Thirds is not going away any time soon. There's lots of great lenses available, and many more coming out. There's also adapters for many other lens formats, so there is almost limitless legacy glass available for any need, provided you don't mind manual focus. Mirrorless means thinner and lighter camera bodies, and Micro Four Thirds lenses need only half the focal length to achieve the same field of view as full frame cameras which means smaller and cheaper lenses for the same zoom factor. With two companies competing in the same format, there is a lot of innovation and a lot of options for users.

We'll see what happens over the next year from Panasonic and Olympus. New models are due out from both companies, as is the endless march of progress. For the time being, at least, the GH3 is a fantastic camera, and depending on your needs, it may be the best camera in this format for you until the GH4 comes out. Certainly for the moment, it has the best image quality available, and is a great camera to actually use. If you don't need the best that Micro Four Thirds has to offer, there are a lot of other great cameras to choose from in the format.

Happy shooting!

I have been waiting for this camera for about 4 years. In 2008 I was looking for the best camera that excelled in both stills and video. I settled for a JVC camcorder which recorded in SD and took 5mp stills. I moved to a Sony SR-11 for HD and interlaced 10mp stills. I was unsatisfied with the stills of the Sony so I bought an Oly E-420 touted as the smallest DSLR to accompany my camcorder. For over a year I dealt with the cumbersome set up of camcorder, DSLR body, 2 lenses and a tripod with mixed results to boot.

Enter the GH2 and 2 issues were somewhat solved at once. The 1st problem was bulk and the other being image quality. The stills of the GH2 was a major step up to my Oly E-620 and the video quality was also significantly upgraded as a result.

Now finally to the GH3 {while comparing to the GH2... I say that the GH2 feels and looks like a toy, yet is quite a serious tool under the hood so to speak. The advantage of looking like a toy was the incognito factor. In contrast, the GH3 has an excellent form, feel and look to it. It fits like a glove for me when operating. As a photographer our camera is like an appendage after all. The GH3 with a 12-35mm attached is light and remains relatively compact.

The location of levers and buttons are logically placed. I initially thought the lever to change from AF to MF was in a bad place and hard to turn. I was trying to make the adjustment with my forefinger (because I almost always have it mounted on a tripod) but it was clearly designed to be turned with the thumb which is stronger. I appreciate the ability to open the battery compartment and not have to remove my quick release tripod plate. I used to always accidently press the WB button of the GH2 and even change settings. The WB and ISO buttons are now on top. No more accidents.

Another major improvement is the speed. The burst shots are very responsive with no lag writing to the card until after 30 shots or so. I use a San Disk 95 mbs write speed which shines now. I was amazed of the processor speed of the GH3 when I would finish doing a burst of 5 shots or so (always RAW) and then press the video button and start recording right away. I have missed many key moments in video on the GH2 because I was waiting for it to finish writing to the memory card.It absolutely destroys the GH2 on this.

The electronic shutter is not virtually silent on a AF lens. You will hear the lens (not the body) make a small adjustment sound. This is still perfectly acceptable even in places demanding silence. One of the serious problems with Electronic Shutter is the bands / electronic stripes (like video of a CRT screen) that ruin images in certain artificial lighting.

As a so called hybrid shooter I welcome the advantages of the GH3 over the GH2 in speed and ease of transition between the mediums. The 1st thing I noticed was the manual Movie Mode which is not placed after all the C (Custom Settings) but right after M (Manual). I often shoot in A (Aperture) Mode and switch to manual Movie mode so I have 3 less turns to do now. The other thing is when recording video on PASM in the GH2 it would default to the lowest Bit Rate 17 mbps. Now it records in whatever mode you have set up like the MOV 1080 60p @ 50mbps without having to switch to manual.

I have a couple of gripes I am having a difficult time accepting though. The 1st is the EVF compared to the GH2. It now has a more "digitized" look to it. The noise (grain) is excessive in many cases. The EVF eye piece is much smaller also for some reason. A missing feature (that I miss anyways) is the "My Menu" found on the GH2 which lets you quickly access the last 5 menu features you used. I would use this to access things like formatting the memory card (instead of digging in the menu).

I just finished a weekend of shooting multiple events related to Art Basel Miami and I found myself thoroughly enjoying the shooting experience even though I just received the camera a day prior. The excellent Lumix 12-35mm has a lot to do with my positive experience. A fellow video shooter with a Canon 1D was impressed with the Continual AF speed and accuracy of the GH3 via the rear view monitor. I like the extras like Level Gauge, Intravalometer and WiFi to name a few useful features added to the GH3. The battery life is greatly improved too. I took 100's of stills and video clips the other night and it still showed 2 bars left. The GH2 has aweful banding on video especially with clear blue skies. I shot a beach scene w/ the GH3 (with bright blue skies) at 7mm on a Lumix 7-14mm and saw less banding. Many of the strong points of the GH2 made it to the GH3 like EX TELE Convert feature though it has it's quirks.

This hybrid is the best we have yet available, but it is not perfect. With present technology we could have had an even better solution by now IMO. Yet at $1300 I think this is a good value and worthy tool to produce excellent images. BTW we may have some significant updates via next firmware for the GH3 relatively soon.

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Having now spent a few weeks with this camera I feel I can provide an honest review of the GH3 and how it compares to it's well-regarded predecessor, the GH2. What seems clear from the onset of testing is that Panasonic has listened to the feedback it sought from photographers and videographers alike prior to designing a GH2 replacement. The body is much more solid and refined in it's ergonomics and controls. This camera now feels as professional as it's larger/heavier full frame and APS-C competitors (especially with the battery grip), but retains a nimbleness those cameras will never be able to match. The user interface is much more straight forward now and no longer requires a decryptor ring in order to select video shooting modes. In fact each menu option that is highlighted can now describe in detail what it's purpose is before it is activated, deactivated or changed.

The new OLED screen is simply stunning and accurately displays color and exposure, even in bright outdoor shooting. I find myself leaving an external monitor at home for my outdoor shoots because it just adds weight to my kit without really improving functionality. The viewfinder is nice as well, but I've noticed it can suffer from some image smearing around the outer edges if your eye is not perfectly aligned to it's center. WiFi remote control works great on the Samsung Galaxy and Asus Transformer, but I have not yet tested it on iPads or iPhones. The 50mbps IPB codec is excellent and can be pushed further in grading and recovery than previous hacked GH2 codecs I've used. Dynamic range, noise/grain, low light performance and ISO color shift (no more green tinting at higher ISOs) all seem improved over the GH2.

Raw still images have much better highlight recovery now as well. Where the GH2 has maybe 1/2 a stop of highlight recovery, the GH3 seems more like 1 to 1.5 stops of recovery which makes exposing for shadows much easier and is great when working in timelapse. Speaking of timelapse, the new electronic shutter feature and built-in intervalometer are brilliant. With the battery grip added you can take literally thousands of pictures in electronic shutter mode without killing the batteries. The only downside is that exposures greater than 1 sec in this mode are not (yet) available, so you will need to change over to the mechanical shutter for longer exposures. The camera can also be set to go into sleep mode when timelapsing in long intervals, further saving it's already outstanding battery life. To date I have yet to run into any video moire problems, which appears to be a much more inflated issue online then is justified in the real world. My preferred video settings are Contrast -5, Sharpness 0, Saturation 0, NR -5.

In conclusion, this is the camera I have been waiting for as a professional videographer and photographer. It does everything I need it to do in a light weight kit and does it exceedingly well given it's price point.

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I have been an avid user of the GH series since the GH1. I use these cameras mostly for video, because I shoot Canon DSLRs for most of my stills. The GH series cameras are optimized for video and produce crisper video than the Canon DSLRs, whereas the Canon DSLRs have more dynamic range and color depth and less noise at all ISOs. I have been following the GH13 firmware patches by Russian hacker Vitaly on Personal View since the beginning and have applied the hacks to the GH1 and GH2 with mixed results.

The GH3 now has a more solid weatherproofed build and the buttons are laid out like a true DSLR. It's like the GH2 has grown up to compete head to head in the DSLR market. But can it really compete with the big boys? You can read about the improved build and other new features in many reviews, but I'm going to focus here mostly on image quality.

While the GH2 was an improvement over the GH1, the advertized gains in low light (noise) and dynamic range performance were a disappointment*. Still photography images were virtually the same, but the quality of motion video was improved considerably, particularly if the hack was applied.

My first test of the GH3 was taking still photographs in controlled studio lighting. First impression of the JPEGs out of the camera is very good. Although at low ISO the difference from the GH2 is hard to see at first, upon examination there is significantly more detail in the shadow areas, the reds are richer, and the overall tint is more accurate. The GH2 images appear to have a green cast by comparison.

Moving up into the higher ISOs, around ISO 3200 the differences are stark. Here the GH2 has blotchy noise, a muddy green cast in the shadows and the colors are muted. The GH3 retains finer grain all the way up to ISO 6400, the colors are bright and the images are actually usable. At 100% the GH3 has some mosquito JPEG artifacts evident as random pinpoints of noise vs. the GH2 which has dark blotches and smeared details.

After upgrading ACR to handle the new RAW files, I took another look at the same set of photos in RAW. The RAW files reveal the fact that the JPEG engine in the GH3 is doing a heavy amount of noise reduction. Even at the base ISO of 200, quite a bit of noise is present in the RAW images, more than I would like to see. With an aggressive amount of noise reduction applied, the RAW files can be made to look as good and then a bit better than the JPEGs out of the camera. But the conclusion is that the JPEG engine has already been optimized to make the images look as good as possible, and RAW processing is not gaining a whole lot, except for the ability to fine tune and fix any white balance errors.

The still photos are pretty significantly improved over the GH2, and those already heavily invested in Micro 4/3 lenses will be glad to know that the investment will be put to good use on this body. But what many are dying to know is how much improvement there is in the video. What videographers are looking for is more dynamic range and a reduction or elimination of macroblocking and pixelation in heavy motion scenes.

There is good news here too: The GH3 pulls moderately more detail out of the shadow areas than the GH2. It's subtle but it's there: there is a bit more detail and less pixelated busyness in the grain. Again at high ISOs the difference is more drastic. The new All-I MOV codec is much more solid and easier to grade and edit without the image falling apart, without resorting to hacking the firmware. The other significant change is that the new menu allows for setting sharpness, contrast, and noise reduction in five steps up or down rather than three. Even with the sharpness turned to -3 on the GH2, the video looked unnaturally sharp with halos and aliasing. Now, with the sharpness turned all the way down to -5, the video looks more natural and the halos and aliasing are gone. Sharpening can now be adjusted in post more tastefully. Unfortunately, Panasonic removed two of my favorite photo styles for shooting video: Smooth and Cinema. In fact, they renamed all of them except for Standard and now there are only five instead of seven. The new styles Natural and Portrait are good choices for video. There are also many scene and creative control styles that have major effects on the overall look.

I have one main issue with this camera and that is the fact that the base ISO is 200. I didn't like it when they changed the base ISO from 100 to 160 on the GH2, and a base ISO of 200 is even worse. A base ISO of 200 on a micro 4/3 camera has about the same signal to noise ratio as ISO 800 on a full-frame DSLR**. That is hardly a very clean ''best'' setting. Smaller sensor cameras should be allowing us to begin at a LOWER base ISO, not a higher one, in order to have the finest grain and least amount of noise possible. And especially for video you really need to be able to shoot at lower ISOs in bright light, otherwise you are forced to have to use neutral density filters. The camera has an extended ISO that allows you to shoot at 125, but in manual movie mode it forces you back to ISO 200. Ideally I would like to be able to shoot at ISO 50 but at least all other digital cameras allow you to shoot at ISO 100. This is very frustrating and I don't understand why Panasonic doesn't allow this.

My second problem with this camera is the cost. This Micro 4/3 camera now costs TWICE as much as a good consumer grade DSLR such as the Canon T41. Even after adding on a few standard lenses, the DSLR becomes a less expensive solution while producing superior still images.

The loss of the multi-format sensor is a mixed bag. On the one hand, the 3x2 and 16x9 photos have lower resolution, and for video all your lenses are going to be slightly cropped compared to the GH2. On the other hand, this could be a positive if you are using legacy lenses such as B4 mount 2/3" lenses which have soft corners; some of the offending corners are cropped off. In the end, the improved image quality of this sensor wins out over the loss of the multi-format oversized sensor.

The new WiFi feature is the most sophisticated of any camera. It allows you to remotely control the camera's functions from your smartphone, immediately play back pictures on your phone or TV, immediately send pictures to your PC as you take them, and send stored pictures to your smartphone/pc/cloud service/web service/printer. I have not yet tested the WiFi features.

Here are the pros and cons of the GH3:

Pros:

Excellent JPEG Engine

Increased dynamic range

Improved low light/high ISO performance

More accurate colors

Wider control over contrast, sharpness, saturation, & noise reduction

Video quality exceeds most DSLRs

Sturdy build

Better button layout

Better, larger LCD

Longer lasting battery

Robust video codec that does not require a hack for pro editing

Fast and very accurate auto-focus

In-camera HDR works well

Silent electronic shutter option

Sophisticated WiFi features

Cons:

Base ISO of 200 is restrictive & frustrating

RAW files reveal that true levels of noise are high even at base ISO

Very little gains to be had shooting in RAW

No Smooth or Cinema picture styles

Considerably more expensive than many DSLRs

Still photography still inferior to most DSLRs

Loss of multi-format sensor could be a complaint for some.

My overall impression of the camera is very good, and I will probably be getting rid of the GH2 and finally giving up on the frustrating exercise of trying to get the 'perfect' hack settings out of it. The GH3 doesn't need the hack, with the robust 72 mbps MOV codec it's reliable and ready out of the box for professional cinematographers and hobbyists. The only thing that bothers me about it is not being able to shoot below ISO 200 in manual movie mode, but I will have to learn to live with that. The cost remains a big issue; for the same amount you could buy two GH2s and have some money left over to put towards the 12-35mm f/2.8 lens. GH2 hackers who already like what they have will probably want to wait until the cost comes down, and most photographers who don't shoot video will get more quality for their dollars with a DSLR.

*DxOMark actually gave the GH2 sensor a lower rating than the GH1 in all three categories: Color Depth, Dynamic Range, and Low Light ISO.

**I compared the RAW files. At ISO 200, the grain or noise from the GH3 is actually slightly WORSE than the Canon 5D Mark III at ISO 800.

Want Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH3K 16.05 MP Digital Single Lens Mirrorless Camera with 3-Inch OLED - Body Onl Discount?

THis is my 2nd GH3. The first one was defective. The leveler was off and 20% of the shots were out of focus. This one is perfect perfect perfect. I'll begin with the things I like about it 1) AWB is the closest AWB achieved. I have a Canon Mark III and Nikon D800. None come close to how accurate Panny's AWB works. 2) size and weight. Perfect for me since I do a lot of architectural shooting and going up and down stairs is much easier at 70 years old. 3) the swing out touch screen LCD!! Keeps me from having to stoop over for hours looking at the viewfinder. 4) Touch focus on the LCD!!! OMG!! Perfect! 5) Photo quality.....up to 800 ISO. After 800 I do notice some noise. 6) Customizable buttons!! A LOT!! 7) The feel in my hands. Perfect. Now what I don't like 1) I wish the timer would auto bracket the shots when set. The Nikon and Canon both do that. I had to buy at remote shutter release cable. An inconvenience to carrying around for those twilight shots. Finally what everyone else has said about the camera is true. After another motnh or so, I may end up selling my Nikon D800 and Canon Mark III. Oh I'm using the Panny with a Oly 9-18 lens. I tried the Panny 7-14 but horrible flare problems.

Update: After having the 2nd camera for less than a month I've discovered a few issues. I was using my Canon external flash and it worked fine for about a week then the hot shoe became slightly loose and the flash wouldn't fire. It worked perfectly on my Canon Mark III and still does. I tried another flash on the Panny and still no luck. Defective hot shoe. I had to return the 2nd GH3 but got another one....I liked it that much!! The new one seems to be working fine with the external flash. Another issue has been occasional out of focus shots. The camera would beep "in focus" but after downloading the photos, several were out of focus. I had this problem as well with the previous GH3. I was using single point focusing. Then I tried a different focus setting...pinpoint. It zooms in quickly and you can see whether or not it's truly in focus. Some registered "in focus" but weren't so I had to move the focus point to a good contrast area to achieve true focus. Ever since then, all my photos have been in focus. Every camera has it's quirks. Getting to know them is the key to getting good shots. One thing I'm concerned about is the longevity of the camera. I'm a working photographer and put about 8,000 to 10,000 shutter clicks on my cameras per month. I had a Nikon D700 for years and ran it up to 300,000 shutter clicks with no problems. I also had a Sony SLT A77 that started to fail after 8 months. It was in for service twice. I love the GH3. It's light and gives me results in the easiest way possible. I don't invest in cameras unless it makes my job easier. The GH3 feels solid for what it is but only time will tell.

Update: After 2 months, I found that this is the ONLY camera I have ever used that has a truly amazing AWB. It is very close to being perfect. If not, at least it makes it much easier to correct in PS or other photo programs. However, in difficult situations such as colored walls, etc... I still manual white balance and it brings it to almost 95% perfect.

Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black)

I spent several weeks reviewing the REBEL XS vs it's many 10 MP adversaries, I even checked it against the ultra zooms as I wanted the convenience of video as well, but too many good things stood out with this camera and so I decided upon it. I bought the rebel XS and after days of dirt testing this camera I've found it a beautiful experience.

Now I'm a professional videographer attached to a tv station in Trinidad & Tobago, my purpose for this camera was the need for a quick sharp still shot camera that would be impressive under low light and still capture impressive portrait shots to be used for my website and for large prints. I didn't want to shell out over a $1000. US for a camera body.

What is tagged by Canon is true: The full auto mode is truly accurate and gives excellent shots always, it makes photography so easy for a beginner or intermediate. The portrait mode isn't blurry, images are clean, nicely toned, excellent in quality for large size prints. The P ( program mode) I like alot at first because this mode sets exposure so nicely I found it addictive. I shot alot of night pics of cars on a freeway, with bright, sharp, lively colours emerging. Night pics at 800 iso had very very very little noise, and I mean I was searching the pics on 15" monitors for reason to complain, but was really impressed.

The auto focus is really quick. Th XS comes with "only" a 7 point auto focus system compared to the XSi 9 point, forgive me when I say there may be no need for another 2 points when the camera focusses so quick and so accurately. I have not gotten a soft image when shot with the auto focus operating.

Now for those point and shoot cams that boast about "face detection"....5 faces...6,7, some even 15. I also have a 10 mp ultra zoom, this simply matters little if not at all, if the focussing ability of the camera is poor or average, and given the "average lens" quality they're made of.

I have learnt clearly that a 10 MP ultra zoom simply cannot compare to a 10 MP D SLR...chalk and cheese.

I also bought the Tamron 70mm 300mm, F4-5.6 telephoto/ macro lens. No vignetting at either end of the lens.

Auto iso is simply magnificent, have not taken a shot where the camera over estimated or underestimated the iso levels.

The Manual mode of this camera is the most impressive for me. The rebel XS via various magazine testing has come up faster than it's other 10 MP rivals when it comes to fps shooting, and burst images. It really does shoot 3 fps consistently, it shoots 2.3 fps in low light, worst case is over 1 fps all at 10 MP quality.

I haven't used a lower quality since, given I bought a Transcend 8GB SDHC card storage is not an issue.

Most of my shooting has been at night, for the little done in daylight, it has been amazing. Colours are very bright, depth of field very very nice. Macros works well. Image optimizer simply shocked life out of me. I was in a shaded area and without flash it really improves the subject without over blowing the background, stuff that is almost impossible on point and shoot cams.

Stuff I disagree with from the "reviews" : 1"The camera feels cheaply built"....simply wrong, nothing is shabby, buttons are actually easy to press, doesn't have cheap clicks to them, the lens mount has a secure feel to it, and a proper snap when it is set. Battery compartment is certainly secure. Your finger must intricately open the door for entry, won't be an accident issue. Rubber door at a.v. ports snap in well. Rubber grip is firm enough, smooth enough to not irritate your hands.

2" XS is "overpriced" compared to the XSi.....Xsi shoots slower than the XS, XSi picture quality is equal to the XS even though the XSi is 12 MP. The XSi may be the 3" LCD and a few other upgrades, but these upgrades don't add up when the picture is taken and the quality of both cameras match alike. I may have chosen the XSI if I wanted to spend the extra $150. u.s but for the lesser price, I'm yet to regret.

3"The XS "only has a 2.5" LCD compared to a couple of it's rivals having 3" LCD's". I can see every thing clearly with this screen, even with Histograms, and grids onscreen. If LCD's get much bigger then canon may need to install a tv tuner as well....the 2.5" is more than sufficient.

4"The XS doesn't have SPOT METERING compared to the XSi, so this is a big issue"haven't encountered a reason to complain yet, after 500 night shots and 200 day shots.

THE DOWN SIDE: the EOS software for uploading the photos to computer, and remote controlling the cam via computer is AWFUL. It's a task to upload, as it is beach balling when you hit "upload". Digital professional software is non responsive. I have not been able to use the software past the install point. Mac version here.

Better use i-photo and photoshop.

I highly rate this camera, and as a videographer who's accustomed to t.v. broadcast quality the REBEL XS is worth it, and since canon is so intent on pushing the rebel XSi they have significantly lowered the price on the XS.....I recommend people buy the XS and get a good lens with the discount earned. The trick is in the lens and the user, and lesser the camera.

I want to save you the time and uncertainty in choosing the best affordable DSLR. For those considering the Canon EOS Rebel XS, the Olympus E-510 or the Nikon D40 / D40x / D60, I believe the Canon XS is the best choice. Also, at the price difference between the XS and the SXi ($150-200 as of December '08), the XS is an excellent alternative--both take exactly the same high quality pictures, save the 2MP difference, which is negligible at the end. Please note that the XS's new lens kit comes with the better quality EFS 18-55 Image Stabilization lens (they are better engineered); and that Canon is offering nowadays generous rebates on telephoto lenses when coupled with the purchase of the XS (I bought mine with the entry-level Canon EF 75-300mm III lens with a generous instant Canon rebate. Don't buy from anybody different from B&H Photo, directly from Amazon, Adorama, Buydig/Beach Camera; stay away from Broadway Photo and TriState).

Canons are popular for the excellent image processing. Nikons for their Nikor lenses. Olympus, some say, for the color of some of the pictures they take.

The Olympus E-510 has important flaws, e.g., the average performance in high ISO speeds and highlight blowing. Also, its inconsistency with good results is worth noting.

The Nikon D40 lacks important features, e.g., image stabilization in their kit lens. The D60 is lacking the high picture quality ratings of the Canon XS. Both Nikons are nice looking, which is a selling factor I usually consider; but picture quality should be your top criterion for the long run.

Don't go through the extensive research I have already done (months, and intense debating). The Canon XS is a winner (specially with the new IS lens kit), even more with its current price (Dec. '08: $480). It is feature rich (you can even add 3 of your preferred defined Picture Style modes), good/professional looking (black body), even the sound of the shooter is nicer than the others. Bottom line: Excellent picture quality, high ISO/low light remarkable performance, and relevant features and space for customization make the Canon XS a winner for months and even years to come.

Buy Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black) Now

This review is geared toward complete newbies (such as myself) who are coming from the point-and-shoot world.

I purchased this camera due to a budget constraint and after reading numerous reviews. For what you features you get, you simply cannot beat the price for an entry level DSLR camera. You may have looked at the XSI (as I have) and have been tempted to put forth the extra $100 or so to get that one. If you get down to the nitty gritty between the specs of the XS and XSI, you'll find that they are very minimally different, and more importantly, those "extra" features will have no bearing on you as a DSLR newbie.

This XS (1000D) model is oft overlooked because so many are praising its "bigger brother" the XSI. But take a look at a side-by-side comparison and you'll notice not much has been scaled back for this XS. Save that extra money for better glass. I would even be willing to speculate that a future firmware release will address some of these scaled-back features.

PROS

-Currently the best bang for buck you're going to find (at this time).

-Canon didn't scale back very much from the XSI

-Some report that the lower MP (10 vs XSI's 12) gives better image quality because of the sensor (DigicIII).

-Excellent image quality even with the supplied kit lens.

-Easy to use (with some research-effort on your part)

-Canon compatibility -nuff said.

CONS

-Not crazy about the build materials (some sort of plastic). When I purchase things, I plan on owning them for a very long time, regardless of how "outdated" it may become a few years down the road.

-Some button placements for me seem counter-intuitive, but remember, I'm only a newbie.

-Has crop sensor like all of the rebels.

-Live View usefulness is questionable.

In short: If you're coming from P&S, you will not be disappointed with this purchase. It will meet or exceed your expectations of photo quality and features.

Read Best Reviews of Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black) Here

**Note 2/18/2011 After 2.5 years, the Rebel XS is soon-to-be obsolete with the announcement of the Rebel T3 in early 2011. The T3 presents significant improvements over the XS, with higher ISO settings and better high-ISO image quality, video capability, a nicer LCD, and a marginally higher frame rate. Unfortunately Canon continues to cheapen the "feel" of the camera with smoother plastics and no rubber grip. I think the T3 will not have the same appeal or bang-for-your-buck as the XS did in its day, given the competition. If you insist on going Canon I recommend stepping up to the T3i, which is packed with nearly all the features of the larger 60D. Otherwise check out the Nikon D3100 or Pentax K-r.

**Revised 18 Apr 2009**

(4.5/5 stars)

This year I decided to finally get a digital SLR. The market is filled with excellent choices and early January saw a plunge in prices that has since receded, so I feel like I picked a good time to buy. The downside of having so many options, though, was trying to decide which one was right for me. Not being too familiar with dSLRs, I read lots of reviews and learned the terminology, and after a couple weeks finally decided on the Canon Rebel XS.

Based on what I was willing to pay (around $650 or less), I considered three other cameras before buying this one: The Canon Rebel XSi, the Nikon D60, and the Pentax K200D. I think Nikon has excellent offerings at the "enthusiast/semi pro" level (D80/D90 and D300, respectively) that are arguably superior to Canon's lineup, but I was disappointed by the D60 in general, mostly due to the lack of autofocus compatibility with older lenses. The main attraction of the Pentax is the high build quality with weather sealing, but it also sports a decent quality kit lens, a large viewfinder, and internal image stabilization. What concerned me about the K200D was the image quality, especially with JPEGs, as reported in a number of pro reviews. As is the case with many entering the dSLR world, image quality was my #1 consideration. Finally, live view (the ability to compose with the rear LCD) is a tool I have found to be quite useful in certain situations and it is notably lacking on the Nikon and Pentax models that I considered.

So, left with the Canons, I considered what I might get with the XSi for the nearly $200 extra. As a beginner I simply wasn't convinced that the additional features on the XSi were worth the extra cash, the image quality the two cameras being basically equal. So I sprang for the XS, got the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens with the savings, and still had some cash left in my pocket. Generally I've been quite happy with my decision. There is a lot of talk about how camera makers "intentionally cripple" their entry-level models, but you're unlikely to notice this if it's your first dSLR. If you pay more for the next step up, you're arguably paying a premium for new technology that you won't even notice or appreciate that much, and will either be commonplace or obsolete in just a couple years. If I had spent more I think I would have skipped the XSi and gone for the 40D, which sports a better build and a nicer kit lens, the Pentax K20D, or perhaps the Nikon D80 or D90. My plan is to stick with the XS for a few years until Canon gives me a compelling reason to upgrade.

So anyway, what is my impression of the Rebel XS after 4 months of solid use? Generally, quite good, but here are my thoughts:

The good:

Image Quality. Period. This is the Canon trademark. The basic JPEG modes are great when you don't want to bother with the creative stuff. The level of sharpness and the color rendition are quite good for my tastes, and can be easily adjusted. One thing I have noticed is that the default sharpening is fairly high and can easily lead to artefacts when rendering fine details. I would recommend turning down the sharpness on all the picture styles to 2 or 3 to avoid this.

Performance at High ISO. Many of my favorite photos have been taken in low light situations and I've decided there's one thing everyone looking at dSLRs should consider carefully: image quality at high ISO speeds. Using higher ISO speeds is extremely useful when trying to get sharp pictures in low light situations (without using a flash). Simply put, in the entry level market Canon outperforms the competition. I've taken a number of pictures at ISO 1600 that look great, especially with the in-camera noise reduction turned on. I made an 8 x 10 in. print of one of these photos, and the noise was almost imperceptible. (Update: I only wish I could shoot ISO 3200, which is available with some of the newer models coming out.)

Ease of Use. The camera puts all the essential controls at your fingertips. Adjusting ISO, exposure compensation, metering mode, and white balance, not to mention picture styles and autofocus mode, are all quick and intuitive operations with this camera. The only thing that takes a little more time is setting custom white balance, which I seem to do a lot under incandescent light. Also, after activating live view in the menu system, it can be turned on or off at the press of a button.

The camera is small, light, and physically attractive. With my 50mm lens attached, the camera is remarkably compact and very lightweight. Also, having dealt with the lag of compact digitals for years, the responsiveness of this camera is especially noticeable.

Kit lens. While the 18-55mm IS lens that ships with the camera leaves something to be desired in terms of build quality (and manual operation), the optical quality actually surprised me. I wish it gave a little more reach on the telephoto end, but in general it does a good job. In fact, the main reason I'm not getting the $500 EF-S 17-85mm is that the 18-55 performs better on the wide end.

Software. The image editing and organizing programs that come with the camera are not the most refined, but they are fairly powerful, and likely adequate for those who don't want to part with another $200 or more for an image editing program. Also, you can control the camera remotely from your computer with live view, which is cool, if not extremely useful. As far as I know, Canon is the most generous company in terms of what they offer in their packaged software.

A few complaints:

Build/Grip: One of the big reasons I didn't get the XSi was because it offered no improvement in the way of build quality or ergonomics (besides the marginally better grip material). The downside of this camera's low weight is the plastic construction. Especially compared to a Pentax (which is also plastic but has a metal frame and usually weather sealing), there's a noticeable difference in the way it feels in your hands. There are advantages to each approach, but some will prefer a more solid (and heavy) construction. Also, some reviewers complain about the grip. I have relatively long fingers, and while I agree that it is a little cramped and awkward compared to a Pentax, for example, it's a secure grip and while taking pictures I've never found it to be uncomfortable. I should say that I spent some time comparing the D60 grip to this one, and ultimately preferred the XS. While the build and grip are adequate, they do detract somewhat from the overall photographic experience. I would give more weight to these factors if I were to buy again.

-Lenses: This is somewhat of a mixed bag. Generally speaking, the deal with Canon is that if you have deep pockets you'll be hard pressed to find a more comprehensive set of high quality professional lenses. As a hobbyist, however, I shy away from spending $1000+ on a lens, so my options are more limited. There are some very good options: the EF-S 10-22mm, EF-S 60mm, EF 50mm f/1.4, EF 85mm f/1.8, and EF 100mm f/2.8 all come to mind. But other bases aren't as well covered: a made-for-digital "standard" prime lens for example, or a quality upgrade to the kit lens (the 17-85mm gets pretty lukewarm reviews). Ideally you should give some thought to the lenses you think you might purchase, and survey what each company offers. I tend to think that Canon, Nikon, Olympus and Pentax all have good options, but their strengths and weaknesses are different.

The viewfinder is fairly small. When dealing with a shallow depth of field in low light and I want to get the focus just right, I often switch to live view to zoom in and focus manually (This is actually very handy). The only basis I have for comparison is my ancient Minolta film SLR that sports a much bigger viewfinder. That said, when I compared the XS and XSi, I didn't really notice the difference between the two. APS-C cameras have smaller viewfinders that 35mm/full frame cameras in general, but they vary enough that it is worth giving it due consideration as you compare cameras.

Metering: This is a fairly minor quibble, but I find that the metering overexposes fairly frequently, especially for high contrast scenes (outdoors). I have found that I get better results dialing in -1/3 to -2/3 stops of exposure compensation in these situations.

Slow continuous shooting rate. If you're shooting action (sports, moving animals, etc.) in RAW you'll want to look elsewhere. The JPEG rate (3 fps) is comparable to competitors and has the advantage of being able to shoot until the card is full. In RAW, however, you'll find that the 1.5 fps (for 5 frames) is pretty slow. I don't generally shoot action so this was not an important consideration for me. (Update: After 4 months of pretty heavy shooting, I still have not found a need for a higher frame rate.)

Overall: Considering the price of the Rebel XS and the overall quality of the package (image quality and feature set), I'm convinced it gives you the most bang for your buck of cameras below $500. This camera is capable of taking very nice photographs, and I find the control layout to be very intuitive. The only things that leave me feeling somewhat unsatisfied are (1) the relatively "cheap" or plastic feel of the camera (2) the grip, which is satisfactory but does not fit the shape of my hand like other cameras, and (3) the lens lineup. I recommend spending some time holding the camera (and others) and researching lenses to make sure the XS will meet your needs. Having said that, the image quality of this camera is excellent, and I am most satisfied by its low-light performance. Furthermore, if you think you'll upgrade in the next several years, I have a feeling Canon will be forced to compete aggressively with Nikon in the enthusiast range, so you can be confident you'll have some good options down the road. (Update: I have to say that the XS is a camera that has grown on me. Despite my quibbles, in everyday use there is very little to dislike about this camera and it will take something very significant for me to switch brands.)

Other options to consider:

Olympus

The Olympus Evolt E420 10MP Digital SLR Camera with 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 Zuiko Lens provides an interesting and very cost-effective choice, particularly for those who value small size. To take full advantage of the minute camera, you'll want to consider getting the tiny 25mm pancake lens in addition to the standard zoom. The E-420 delivers on features too, with live view and a good dust control system. The downsides? First, there is no in-body image stabilization, unlike its bigger brother, the E-520 (also a good option). Also, lens selection is limited due to the unique sensor size. That said, the lenses are designed specifically for "four thirds" sensors as opposed to "full frame", and thus have more appropriate focal lengths. More importantly, several of the Olympus Zuiko lenses get rave reviews for their optical quality. A final downside is that the "four thirds" image quality, in particular dynamic range and high ISO, isn't quite on par with Canon or Nikon. However, I suspect that for many people it will be more than good enough.

The recently announced Olympus Evolt E620 12.3MP Live MOS Digital SLR Camera with Image Stabilization and 2.7 inch Swivel LCD w/ 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 Zuiko Lens crams most of the features of the semi-pro E-30 into a body closer to the size of a E-420. If you have a bigger budget, check this one out, it looks like an excellent camera.

Pentax

For those who want a more upscale dSLR experience in the entry-level market segment, I would recommend the Pentax K200D 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with Shake Reduction 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 Lens. You get a quality build, weatherproofing, a nice viewfinder, and arguably the best built kit lens there is (complete with a nice lens hood!). Make sure you can live with the image quality if you plan on shooting JPEG and keep in mind there's no live view, but if you read owner reviews you'll find very few unhappy customers.

For a bit more you can bag yourself the Pentax K20D 14.6MP Digital SLR Camera with Shake Reduction and 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AL II Lens. This camera could be categorized more as "semi-pro" or "enthusiast", and is best for those eager to take greater manual control of their camera. The new sensor resolves the image quality issues of the K200D and has greater resolution. It has live view, but the implementation is apparently pretty crude. All in all, it sounds like this is a very good deal at current pricing and again, you'll find very few unhappy users.

Nikon

The Nikon D90 DX 12.3MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S VR DX Nikkor Zoom Lens is an update to the D80 that by all accounts equals or exceeds its Canon rivals on image quality and delivers a very nice feature set including HD video. For this, though, you'll need to pay a pretty penny (around $1100). And at that price, you'll want to give full consideration to the well-built Canon EOS 40D 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens, or its more expensive sibling, the Canon EOS 50D 15.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens.

The recently announced Nikon D5000 12.3 MP DX Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Lens and 2.7-inch Vari-angle LCD falls into the same price range as the D80, and is something of a blend between the D60 and the D90 in terms of the design. Most of the features, however, have been passed down from the D90. It's billed more as an upper entry-level camera (like the Canon T1i and the Olympus E-620), and as such lacks a few of the more serious features of the d90 like the top LCD, the nice large pentaprism viewfinder, and wireless flash control, but most of the bells and whistles are there. Like the d60 there is no autofocus with non AF-S lenses, though this is becoming less of an issue since the release of the AF-S 35mm f/1.8 and the AF-S 50mm f/1.4. At the price it's being offered at the moment I would still very much prefer the D90, but this is a decent option nonetheless.

The Nikon D3000 10MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens was also announced recently and appears to be a refresh of the D60 built around the same sensor with an upgraded autofocus system and a few new bells and whistles. No video or live view, though, due to the older CCD-type sensor. Again, my personal feeling is that if you buy Nikon the D90 is currently the best deal for "enthusiasts" who plan to get into the nuts and bolts of photography. If you only plan to shoot very casually and can still find a D40, that camera also represents a great value.

Want Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black) Discount?

"I should have spent the extra hundred and gotten the XSi" should have been the actual title to this review. My dissatisfaction revolves around the XS' focusing challenges. The camera itself is great image quality is good, the sensor works fine -the uptick in image quality between the smaller sensor on a point n shoot is (to me) very noticeable -but the XS, with its 7-point focusing system has problems, especially in low light.

I understand the XSi's 9-point system is more accurate, and face it, most of us shoot in less-than-ideal lighting conditions, and we don't want to shell out $300 for good flash that won't turn our subjects into wan, demon-eyed ghosts (I'd rather spend the money on a good prime lense) so a good-auto focus system is a must. My wife has a Panasonic FZ28 with a Leica lense, and its autofocus capabilities are far superior. XS great camera, but the autofocus issues are very disappointing. If I could do it over, I'd get the XSi or the Nikon D60.

Polaroid Wireless LCD Display Performance Battery Grip For Canon Eos 7D Digital Slr Camera - Remote

This vertical grip works very well.

The vertical grip has:

a cassette for two batteries

a tripod socket on the bottom

a place to attach a hand strap on the bottom

all the standard buttons for the right hand/finger (m-fn, af-on, af-select/+ */-, scroll wheel)

a switch to turn the vertical grip buttons off

Intervalometer!

LCD w/ clock that's always on (when not showing intervalometer settings)

Button for illuminating/back-lighting the LCD (It's a weak backlight -probably good for preserving night-vision.)

The box also includes an RC-5-like remote.

Overall, the grip and action feels pretty good. Good definition to the half-shutter press. The grip snugs up tightly with the 7d body -no looseness at all.

You can use one battery and leave the 2nd space empty, if needed.

It appears to be powered by a coin-cell battery.

The intervalometer has worked well in my limited testing. I set it to take 1 shot every 30 seconds for 180 shots today -no issues. I even modified some settings in the 7d menu between shots and the sequence kept going.

I found the intervalometer directions to be useless -misleading actually -I had to experiment to figure out how to use it. Here's a quick guide based on my experimentation:

Delay Amount of time to wait before starting the entire sequence (HH:MM:SS)

Long Length of the shooting burst (HH:MM:SS)

Intvl Length of each interval (HH:MM:SS) between each shooting burst

N Number of intervals (maximum 999?)

I usually set "Long" on the intervalometer to 1 sec and the drive mode on the 7d to one frame/single shot -not 3 fps/8fps. This results in one shot per interval. If you use 3fps, you'll get 3 quick shots in that 1 sec.

Update:

After having this intervalometer for a few months now, I've had no real issues with this grip or the intervalometer. The "OK" printing on the center intervalometer button has worn off, but who cares?

If you hold (for three seconds) the */L button (lower left), the intervalometer buttons will be locked, preventing you from accidentally hitting the "play" button and starting your intervalometer sequence at an inopportune time. The duplicated camera buttons will still work, of course. Press again for three seconds again to unlock the intervalometer buttons. I've accidentally started the intervalometer sequence (the buttons aren't recessed), so this lock button is handy.

The grip is a great value.

i contemplated getting the canon grip, but the close to $200 price tag made me unsure.

i ordered this grip expecting a value grip and thats more or less what i got.

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build:

the build quality seems to be fine, nothing close to the 7D or the authentic canon grip(which i believe has a magnesium chasis), but it seems solid enough.

it attaches to the camera securely, although there is a very slight gap in between the grip and body, but i would be surprised if the actual canon grip didnt have this same gap.

also note that the batteries load in from the side as opposed to the back. your camera's battery door is stored on the grip itself so you dont need to keep it in your camera bag and risk losing it.

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grip:

the rubberized grip is a little softer and slightly more slippery than the 7D's grip but its functional.

if your hands are big enough to warrant getting the grip, i doubt you will have the camera slipping out of your hands.

i wouldve like to see something a little grippier, but at $90, its not a deal breaker by any means.

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buttons/LCD:

the buttons are actually decent, although different from the canon buttons.

the shutter button is a little firmer and it has a very well defined half-press. i actually prefer the grip's shutter button to the camera's.

the other buttons are ok as well, although they are "squishier" than the canon buttons.

the LCD was a nice touch. it constantly remains onrunning off its own small coin-type battery.

the backlight is a little weak, but it should be bright enough to do its job in the dark.

---

intervalometer:

again, its not something that blew me away, but it is functional.

i've only spent an hour or two messing around with it, but it seems to work fine, although setting it up was a little confusing to me at first.

as other reviewers have said, the directions were a little hazy, so i relied on the reviewer above and his/her directions.

here are the directions from H. Kaiserhahn:

"I found the intervalometer directions to be useless -misleading actually -I had to experiment to figure out how to use it. Here's a quick guide based on my experimentation:

Delay Amount of time to wait before starting the entire sequence (HH:MM:SS)

Long Length of the shooting burst (HH:MM:SS)

Intvl Length of each interval (HH:MM:SS) between each shooting burst

N Number of intervals (maximum 999?)

I usually set "Long" on the intervalometer to 1 sec and the drive mode on the 7d to one frame -not 3 fps/8fps. This results in one shot per interval. If you use 3fps, you'll get 3 quick shots in that 1 sec."

***UPDATE**

also want to add that you can do long exposures as well. set the camera to bulb mode and set the "long" setting to however long you want the shutter to stay open.

---

remote:

the remote works and thats about it. not much more to say about it.

i tried using the remote to trigger the camera w/o grip and it did work(as it should), but it seemed to work better with the grip attached.

i havent tested the maximum range yet, but from about 5-10 feet it worked for me.

keep in mind that its an IR remote, so it has to be line of sight.

---

overall:

this is a pretty nice grip. dont expect ferrari performance at a honda price, but theyll both get you where you need to go.

the features are great and the intervalometer is a nice touch. The only reason id still contemplate getting a canon grip would be because of the superior build quality.

i mostly shoot outdoors, so the fear of dropping the cam and damaging the grip is a real one for me. not to say that the grip feels cheap, but it's obviously not going to be as solid as the 7D body or the canon grip with its magnesium chassis.

im giving the grip 5 stars because its such a great value.

all of the concerns about build quality and such are justifiable since it is only $90.

obviously the canon grip will be better, but for those who can't justify the $200, this is a great alternative.

*** UPDATE***

as of now, the grip is not showing any problems with power drainage when being left on over time.

ive left the grip in the on position, camera off, for a few days now and the batteries are still at the same level they were at the start.

using genuine canon batteries so the battery meter is accurate.

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I received this grip a few days ago, so far everything is ok, the rubberized portion of it has better grip than the camera does, it niceley fits the camera, the buttons feel the same as the camera ones, the quartz display is what it is, a simple quartz display... the intervalometer buttons are a bit tiny (I have big hands)sometimes I end up using my nails but that might be 'cause I'm kinda chunky, It has a metal screw for holding it to the camera (I was worried about this because I read in the web that there are some battery grips with plastic screws).

I would recommend it if you are looking for the intervalometer function.

Read Best Reviews of Polaroid Wireless LCD Display Performance Battery Grip For Canon Eos 7D Digital Slr Camera - Remote Here

This is not the Nikon brand grip; that's clear if you directly handle both. However, at less than 1/3 the price, it's not bad. It mounts securely and all of the features operate well. Grip is rubberized and feels substantial. It's only the buttons that tell you that this is not top end.

It comes with a AA battery tray and a tray for a second Nikon battery if you have two. I am an amateur photographer and for what I'll use this grip for, it will do the job.

No comment on the remote. I'm sure it works fine, but I already have a Nikon IR remote and a cable shutter release, so I won't use it.

The five star rating takes into consideration the value this grip offers. If it were priced identically to the Nikon, I'd give the Nikon grip 5 stars and this one 3 stars.

Update: After using this grip for 11 months now off and on (probably 20 times), the "key" that is used to lock the battery tray into the grip broke. This is clearly a weak link as the key is made of plastic and with the amount of torque you apply twisting it to lock, it should be metal. I can still lock it, but it's not as easy. Otherwise, the grip still works fine.

Want Polaroid Wireless LCD Display Performance Battery Grip For Canon Eos 7D Digital Slr Camera - Remote Discount?

This Polaroid grip was a sight for sore eyes with the price tag of $90 when compared to the Canon BG-E6 grip which runs $235 on a good day. Tactile rubber on the front feels good when carrying a 5d mark II portrait. However, the grip has a slightly less ergonomic shape than the Canon BG-E6 grip. The only other thing I've noticed is that when I mount the grip to a monopod, and adjust the fluidhead, the grip and the body have some play, even tightened all the way. It is very slight, not as meaningful when the pricetag is less than half.

The Polaroid grip is made of plastic, but with 2 batteries it adds a considerable weight to the body, which can be fatiguing when handling a long shoot. This is a drawback with any grip. Some find it more convenient to carry another battery and just change it. I have larger hands, and find that it adds more real estate for me to grab onto the camera. It does however, take some getting used to adjusting the thumb wheel as the grip (same with Canon one) puts the thumb wheel of the 5d mark II barely within reach... might even make it difficult to use one handed. These are again commentaries on grips in general as it applies to both the OEM and the aftermarket version.

Overall, it was a good investment especially with the built in intervalometer, eliminating the need to carry another accessory. It offers no weatherproofing, so be careful of using it in any damp conditions or splashes. You'd be better off just taking it off and using the normal body as it is. Again, were it not for the bit of wiggle room between the grip and the body when moving around on a fluidhead (pretty minute detail), it would have deserved a better star rating, but it is not perfect. With that being said, I cannot see a huge benefit to buying another else if you really want a grip, even if price was not an issue. This is a great buy for anyone WANTING a grip. You may not like it, but i bet it is probably because a grip might not be for you.

Triplett 8055 CamView W35v CCTV Wrist Mounted Test Monitor with 3.5" LCD and 12 Volt Output

• High contrast 3.5" daylight viewable display
• Video (Via BNC connectors) loop thru capabilities
• On screen display of video settings
• Power CCTV security with 12 volt output
• One year limited warranty

Due to the fact that this has a power supply output to power the camera, it allows you to test various camera locations with nothing more than the monitor, a camera and a ladder. Save hours of time running cables to a location only to find that you can't get the camera angle you are looking for from that spot. In addition, once your camera is installed, you can use it to fine tune the viewing angle right from the camera as opposed to be on cell phone with someone else in front of the viewing monitor. Only con, battery life is not long. If you plan to hang more than 5 or 6 cameras in a day, use the battery wisely or plan to charge it in between use.

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The only problem I have with this device is that when you are testing a camera and the IR comes on it drains the battery at a very fast rate. If it were possible to add extra battery capacity that would go a long way. How I am dealing with this problem, is that I am using and external belt clip battery pack to supply the voltage to the camera as opposed to using your device to supply the voltage. Other than this I am pleased with the product.

Premium Flex Skater Dolly Stabilizer Table Top Slider for DSLR Camera WYD150

This works great, smooth as glass, if you mount your dslr to it using a rigid mono stem. If you mount a dslr to this using an jointed piece, the camera will be too heavy and your footage will have a lot of bouncing in it.

If you want to make it even better, get two pieces of shelving mounters from home depot and drill them to a six foot long piece of finished poplar. Then you'll have a sort of rail system for it that you can put on rough surfaces or mount on a couple light stands.

I've added a photo to show the dolly system I built!

Excellent, inexpensive slider! I got the one with the black/clear wheels which makes my production look more professional. I had dreaded getting the one with blue wheels, because I would've at that point replaced the wheels.

The rolling action is smooth! Glides across a table top easily, even with a heavy weight on it like a DSLR and lens setup.

The adjustments were easy to track around whatever object you are filming. The wing-nuts on the axles are easy to adjust. I will say that the pivot-markings on the base plate are sort of useless and aren't alighted perfectly.

And now on to the gripes.

1) This is a small unit. No known DSLR will fit on this unit right out of the box. Most Camcorders will not fit on this unit out of the box. The wheels are too close together. Very short wheelbase inhibits mounting flush with the mounting plate (the most stable way to mount, of course). You will need a spacer, quick dismount, ball-head, magic arm or something else to give your camera enough clearance away from the wheels.

2) The 1/4" bolt for mounting your camera equipment requires an allen wrench to remove and turn to mount your stuff. This makes it inconvenient to change out accessories. It has a notched surface for "finger turning", but the screw was really tight in the hole making it almost impossible to mount correctly the first time.

3) My mounting bracket is slightly bent, making two wheels on the diagonal corners up in the air. This does give some slight wobble issues, but nothing the in-lens stabilization cannot correct.

These last three things are sort of petty of me, which is why they only got one star knocked off. But this is a great roller for what it is!

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To mount my DSLR, I purcahsed the EzFoto Arca Swiss Type Compatible Ball Head, with Quick Release Plate. It was about 30 bucks, and is fantastic for this dolly. You will not need any additional parts to get going.

The dolly is smooth, and is well constructed. I have no complaints about the build or function, and have been having a lot of fun making slide shots.

Please know that the dolly does exaggerate any irregularities on the surface that it rolls on while shooting. For example, I shot some basketball players from the gym floor. Dust and debris from the floor quickly accumulated on the rubber wheels and created jitter while rolling. I was surprised at how problematic this was, and due to the "sticky" nature of the rollerblade type wheels, getting and keeping them clean was a challenge. Later I shot from an old science table with lots of irregularities on the surface (scratches and nicks). Again problems, although not as bad. But when rolling on a smooth clean surface the dolly is wonderful. I have begun carting around a table to use as part of the mount.

I guess if was really picky, I'd want the way that the axles are mounted to the plate to be better. They have tightening screws, which allow you to change the angle for arced paths. This is a key feature, but the actual screws are not that great. A rubber or plastic washer would improving things here, and I suspect I'll be adding one to each axle soon.

Very pleased over all especially for the price.

UPDATE: I bought 4 nylon washers (1/4 inch hole). I put them on either side of the axle bolts, and now the tightening screws sit much nicer. I remain very pleased with the dolly. The ball head that I bough is key. Great value great mount.

Read Best Reviews of Premium Flex Skater Dolly Stabilizer Table Top Slider for DSLR Camera WYD150 Here

I found this dolly to be well made but there are a few gripes:

1 it's small. I planned to use it with a DSLR with a battery grip (Nikon D7000). This camera will not fit directly onto the dolly unless you use a friction arm or a ball head or something of the sort.

2 the markings, while there, are almost useless. Since there are no numbers, you have to visually identify that you're sort of at the same marking on both axles in order to do a proper setup for a circular move. It's not impossible, but less than precise. The other problem here is that the axles are hexagonal and thus the marking are sort of under and less than visible you can see this in the photos of the item.

3 prone to irregular movement due to small size. Just like a car with a small wheel base, small disturbance in the surface on which this rolls will be amplified. Again, usually these kinds of dollies are used on a smooth surface, but something like a hardwood floor might be enough to upset it due to the joints between the boards.

4 another reviewer mentioned this if using a friction arm with a heavy camera, there is a LOT of shake when moving. I suppose this is not a problem with this specific dolly but something to think about.

I tried this dolly with a Canon S110 (point and shoot) and the results were a lot better. This dolly is made for lighter cameras. I would imagine 4/3's sensor devices with smaller lenses will be fine also, and in a pinch you can make it work with a dslr by having a steady hand and supporting the camera to eliminate shake but personally, I'll be trying a larger unit to see if it resolves some of these issues.

UPDATE:

I ended up purchasing the larger version (Large Table Flex Dolly Video Stabilization System for DSLR Cameras & Camcorders) of this dolly and it's MUCH better (see picture and review in the link). If you have a DSLR or a heavier/bigger rig, get the large or extra-large version.

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Received our dolly today. Two things disappointed me because they weren't advertised correctly.

First, the picture for this item clearly shows angle markings on the base plate, so as to accurately place both axels for a uniform curve. Our model does not have angle markings. This was something we were looking for, as a feature.

Second, the center screw post is not sized to receive a tripod head. It is sized as though it were a quick-release plate. The camera must be mounted directly to the base plate. This is not advertised on the item page, or we would have chosen another model.

The construction is fine, wheels work well, etc. These limitations may prove enough for me to return this one and look for another model.

Savage 53" x 12yds Background Paper (#02 Sky Blue)

I love the seamless background papers. However they are expensive to ship to where I live so I must find a better reusable alternative. Other than that I LOVE them.

X-Rite EODIS3CCPP i1 Display Pro and ColorChecker Passport Bundle (Black)

There are two parts to this system: there is the software you install and use on your computer, and there is the "hardware" the color checker you use when you're photographing and to which you reference the software.It is a system that speeds up your workflow, increases your accuracy and efficiency, and leaves you with prints you can be proud of.

Before I go on, let me clarify that I use this system with Photoshop ACR, not with Lightroom. Since the software does not install as a Plug-In to Photoshop (as it does with Lightroom), I have to use it as a "stand-alone" program. This isn't a hardship, but it is a distinction, and my review is based on this scenario only.

Another important fact is that for the purposes of creating profiles, this program requires that at least the profile-generating image be in .DNG so, whatever program you use to process your RAW captures has to be able to save as .DNG.

The process is simple: you shoot a series of photographs under a particular set of circumstances; you select one that is typical of the conditions present in the whole series; you save it as a .DNG; you open the "stand alone" Passport program; you open that representative image and tell it to create a profile based on it; you give the profile a descriptive name. The profile it creates will automatically appear in the camera profile drop-down menu in the Camera Calibration tab within ACR. You open the rest of the images in ACR and apply the profile to all of them as the first step in your RAW processing.

So far, I have successfully created two profiles for one of the cameras. It will be necessary, over time, to create a separate profile for each shooting situation for each camera. For example, on my Nikon D-80, I shot the color checker under "indoor, bounced flash" conditions. I created that profile. I then opened the 22 images that I shot under those conditions and applied the profile to them as the first step as soon as I entered ACR. Sure enough, on my calibrated monitor, the colors were right on target. I had the right shade of deep red, the right shade of aquaish-blue, and a perfect capture of skintone for each different person (and this was a diverse group). Additional adjustments in the basic tab were needed later but, starting from an appropriate profile, I could apply batch settings and only tweak individual shots lightly. I waited to write the review until I was able to make prints of the images that looked so great on the monitor and, sure enough, they look great when printed as well. I'm absolutely delighted.

I would say that the time saved is considerable. For an advanced amateur, like me, it's definitely worth it. For a large-volume professional, it is probably essential. Not only do you save time in the processing part of the equation, you also save money by not having to reprint.

Of course, the matter of creating camera-specific varieties of profiles can be time-consuming, but you don't have to do it all at once. You create them as the need arises and then you have them there for all subsequent matching situations.

The unit also comes with non-profile related swatches. Among them it has several intensities of neutral grays to help you quickly establish white point or check for clipping, and several artistic interpretation swatches designed for changing the color temperature of your photograph to make it progressively warmer (more golden) or cooler (more blue) than it really was. The latter are further broken up into cooling or warming for people or for landscape pictures. (Really, very well thought out.) There is also a white balance swatch/card that will come in handy in mixed-lighting situations. Though I haven't had to use it yet, it's very handy to have it in the same unit that I'm carrying along anyway.

The only factor on the minus side is that you have to really struggle to find information, instructions, and explanations of the procedure, features and swatches. The process is absolutely straightforward once you understand it, but getting there is a struggle. The X-Rite company website is badly organized and of very little help (I already knew that since I own their eye-one calibration software which still hasn't been updated for Windows 7).

The "for more information click here" link in the interface takes you to a dead end. The CD has totally-irrelevant "training modules" that deal with general calibration issues with no reference to this product. The zipped "online tutorial" that has to be downloaded from within the interface takes five minutes to download using DSL and requires Flash Player. When you register the product, they send you another link to download the same online tutorial again as a "thank you" gift. I believe your best bet is the written documentation PDF (on the standalone proram it is in the help menu>documentation). It is 59 pages long, well-illustrated and rambles a bit (but, so far, everything I wanted to find was there). Make sure you check it out before starting and be amazed at the difference in your images.

Shows how the product can perform white balance, color calibration and dual-illuminant color calibration using the included software and Adobe Lightroom on a Windows 7 PC. 4 stars as the out-of-the-box experience is poor -not until you have gone to the website, read the instructions and downloaded & watched the video examples will you know what to do.

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Im a professional photographer and use the digital-camera color checker, which is a rather large and bulky device to say the least, it is also complex to create and apply profiles.

The new X-rite passport ROCKS..! plain and simple.. it is easy to use, naively with lightroom, and easy with PhaseOne Capture. The quality of the profiles is not quite matching the digital camera checker, but nobody in their right mind would expect that. The passport create a very use-able profile in a matter of seconds.

Here is how it works.

1. snap a shot with the passport in the same light as you are working.

2. select image in Lightroom, then select EXPORT and export to X-rite.. this will create a profile, I suggest naming the profile by the date and album it applies to.

3. restart lightroom, go to develop, select the profile in camera profile, then sync to the rest of the album.

NOTE if you have several lighting environments in the same folder, shoot a passport shot for each light change, then apply to the images which matches that passport.

The card also have a set of off-white patches for warming or cooling portraits and another set for landscape, use them to set the whitepoint in a image to warm or cool as desired.

X-rite have made available a very well designed instruction video for download from their site.

Overall, this is a very successful product, it does what I expected and it does it well. If you shoot digital and am concerned about color management, this is a MUST HAVE product.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

Read Best Reviews of X-Rite EODIS3CCPP i1 Display Pro and ColorChecker Passport Bundle (Black) Here

My background, serious amateur photographer since the jungles of Southeast Asia, 35mm until this year.

No two digital sensors are the same and vary in capture and color from manufacturer to manufacturer and camera to camera within every manufacturer.

That said, the X-Rite Colorchecker Passport is excellent for dead on color processing after each shoot.

I would have given it 3 5 stars but I find there is a problem and not with the actual product but somewhere within the software. I use Adobe products, current versions of Light Room, Photoshop CS5, Bridge, Elements 8 all for Mac. While I was following directions to enter or create a color profile from the Colorchecker Passport what I failed to know or realize is the color profile would be set as default across the entire set of programs in Adobe with no way to correct or remove this 'default' setting. What IS supposed to happen is the created color profile is to be entered as an option selectable profile to be used by the owner. Thus, when downloading from camera card to computer into Bridge or Lightroom each RAW format photo enters Bridge or Lightroom with an incorrect color profile assigned to it automatically.

I approached two different technical support people (Colorchecker Passport & the tutorial site I use to learn more about the programs I own) and got answers but they failed to correct the problem, nor are they answered in a timely way.

Now when I download I must wait for the entire download to finish and then take an additional step in setting the RAW photos back to their original camera settings before I can begin to manipulate the photos further. This takes more time but in the grand scheme of things this should not set up a default setting in any other program but the Colorchecker Passport and not bleed over into Adobe products or any other photo software processing programs until directed to do so or chosen by you the photo manipulator.

Now when I shoot anything I use the Passport but in development steps I do not enter a profile, rather I do it all manually which is also time consuming but the photos come out spot on for color.

My disappointment is the inability to correct this problem from any of the venders of this program or the other programs I use. Were I able to undo the root problem I'd be much happier but technical support has no idea what has happened, lame to nonfunctional in my opinion and it's the blame game due to various reasons best left unwritten.

Overall I feel this is a good product as long as you do not enter a color profile for your Passport and inadvertently create a blanket default across your entire software spectrum. I am not happy with technical support on this issue at all.

Could this be my error? Sure but it doesn't support the lack of editing or removing the newly created setting from the computer in any way.

I would say, buyer be ware AND X-Rite should add the ability to remove the offending profile easily and effectively to it's software with clear, concise

illustrated instructions.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Update 2012

Though I use this product I use it differently from it's intended use by the manufacturer. I ignore the included Passport's software completely.

Example; When I use this product I shoot two frames at the beginning or the end of the shoot, frame one is the color checker side, frame two is the gray card side. When back in post I will correct for color balance in Adobe Photoshop or Bridge's Camera Raw by loading all shots into CR (including the Checker shots) and then adjusting color in the rest of the photos using the eye dropper tool on the color checker photo in CR, then selection synchronize all and select white balance, then okay.

How I finally got rid of the foul, bluish cast profile the original review was based on was go to a third party tutorial course, pay the fee and follow the instructional tutorial movies. In one of the movies it elaborates on the removal of the offending profile created by the Passport Checker software. Why did I not go through Passport Checker's help? Not at all timely or helpful to my needs when I needed it two years ago. They may have improved their customer service or may not.

The way I understand Amazon'e rules I may not inclose the third party's company name name or site. Suffice it to say it is a favorite site to learn many things you don't already know or as a refresher for something you may have forgotten. There are other sites now being offered on the Inet. Some are pay sites, some are free.

This product still stands on it's manufactures acclaims yet, my personal treatment by the company two years ago does not warrant a higher rating even though I now the 'work arounds' for the problems I had regarding this product. Considering my down time, correction time, scrambling for a comprehensive solution to correct the hassle of three shoots gone bluish (one wedding) from Color Passport's 'customer service' my rating still stands.

On the up side, once you understand the card, the workarounds should something go wrong in profiling it does pretty much what the manufacturer says. Leave the software either in the box or buy a Passport without the software and you should be fine.

By not using the software included I've had little or no problems within reasonable lighting conditions. While on my third party site I discovered a way to make a fake gray card in Photoshop. Far to many steps to go into here. This works if you forget to use a gray card or anything like it for white balance.

For a far less amount of money, buy a good gray card. No software, nothing fancy.

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In the old days of film (say, fifteen years ago), we had two choices: daylight film and indoor film. Once you put a roll of film in the camera, you were stuck with the white balance, unless you rewound the roll in midstream to change film. Then you went home and used a little gadget to fish out the leader, and hoped you had correctly noted the number of exposures you had taken before rewinding, so that you didn't get a double exposure when you reloaded that roll.

All of that changed when digital RAW came in. Now you could adjust the white balance after the fact so you could shoot under all kinds of light on the same memory card. You could even set it to auto so that the camera would calculate the white balance and the pictures that emerged seemed pretty good.

There were always obsessive photographers who were concerned about white balance and color management. I used to make fun of them to myself. Then I got the ColorChecker Passport made by x-rite. Now I'm really upset and becoming obsessive too.

The Passport is a little passport-sized gadget with three little cards in it with lots of little colored squares, something like a paint sampler. You use this three ways. You can photograph the included grey card to set white balance at the time of shooting that will then be applied to all of your images, or you can photograph the chips while on a shoot and wait until you do raw processing and use your software to select one of the grey squares to set white balance for a series of pictures taken under the same light, or you can build a camera calibration profile for the lighting conditions of your shoot.

Either of the first two methods seems to work fine for white balance. I tested both and for the most part there was a slightly different temperature than my Nikon camera would have assigned and except for the most important color accuracy, this didn't seem important for me.

But when it came to actual colors, I received a shock. I've followed a color-corrected workflow pretty rigorously, calibrating my monitor regularly and using appropriate profiles for printing, and my prints look like my monitor to the extent that the different natures of the media allow. However, when I looked at an image of the Passport color chips on my monitor and compared it to the actual Passport, there were wide discrepancies in the colors. Many colors, particularly blues, looked very different. My camera was not as accurate as I thought.

Luckily, I was able to create and apply a profile with ease from the image of the Passport with the software that comes with it, and the colors looked a lot better, except for the deepest hues.

The lesson is simple. If you really want correct color you need a ColorChecker (although even then, there are colors that your sensor will not be able to capture). Now here's the rub. That means you are going to have to take the gadget with you and photograph it whenever you shot. The small size makes it easy to carry but it is not convenient to use, especially if you are a photographer on the run. But until the manufacturers make better cameras, it's either that or accept that your colors are going to be off.